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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, my HVAC controls are kind of screwy. It's a 92 SLC, so they are the slider style controls. The top portion which chooses which vent it goes through slides around just fine. The rotary 1,2,3,4 dial works fine. However, the lower slider which slides from left to right (cold to hot) will only go so far left. Essentially, it stops right around the middle. If you slide it with a bit of speed from right to left you can hear a noise. It's tough to describe, but is almost a spring sound. I'll have to listen to it again later, and maybe will convert a video of the whole action to explain better. I've examined the HVAC controls pretty thoroughly and didn't see anything wrong. I would guess perhaps the cable that it controls has a kink or something. However, I'm not sure why it would work halfway as opposed to being altogether stuck. The 'boing' noise sounds like it is coming from right behind the HVAC controls too, but I'm not sure what's back there.
Anyway, before I invest a lot of time into going through the dash and locating that issue, I'd like to get an idea of if the system even works. Does anyone know a way to trigger the A/C system to engage outside of the dash controls? I guess I could just jumper the compressor clutch relay, but I'm not sure if that'll work or if it'll just burn something up. So, I'm just open to suggestion on this one. Thanks!
 

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Re: Is there a way to bypass the HVAC controls to jumper the A/C? (_Donk_)

well when you select defrost it should engauge AC pump nomatter where the temp sensor is.. it uses AC pump to pull condansation out of air for good defrost.. that will verify if the pump turns on.. as far as the slider.. it is a simple cable that goes to controll valve..youll find it... And so a nother side point...In a VW as with some other cars...driving around with the defrost on will waste gas because it turns on the AC pump...just to be aware of that..that is also why the defrost is colored red in the selector s/w..
 

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Re: (vw mofo)

GOOD POST^ http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: (_Donk_)

the bottom lever which controls the blend door does not control whether the ac comes on or not...your problem is either in the cable or the door
the ac will come on depending on the lever position on the top and if its on the snowflake
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: (BLUE NRG)

Yeah. So I jumpered the compressor clutch and it spun right up. Good news, indeed. Anyway, I dug my way into the dash and spent a few hours accomplishing nothing. So, the slider goes from Hot to the middle range and stops there. It possibly sounds like a door sticking or something. I'd say it's right around half of the range of the slider. I can't explain... here's a pic:

If you can't read the text, it says 'Control Cable for temperature (air blend) flap'. If you look at where the slider is positioned in the image, that's as far to the Cool side as it goes. So, according to the Bentley, that cable connects to the 'Vacuum servo for mode door (central flap)'. Anyway, I know the only way this one is going to get solved is by my digging down to that servo. What I'm trying to find out is exactly how to do so. There's a metal bar, which I'm assuming is the knee bar I hear so much about, that blocks access. I'm guessing I can maybe get to it down through the side of the driver side floor panel. I took a couple of tries at removing those panels around the knee bar on the drivers side to not much avail. So, if anyone knows the easiest way to access that servo, that'd be super. My best guess is that something is jammed up in that 'central flap' whatever that may be. I know that the PO had the heater core replaced, so the dealership probably half-assed the job and left something jammed in there. As soon as I can GET to the cold side of the slider, then I can begin working my way through getting the A/C up and running.
I don't know if it has R12 or R134, so to err on the safe side, I'll get it flushed and replace the receiver/drier, and refill w/ R134. Then to hunt down all the leaky hoses it probably has. So again, Thanks!
 

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No. that's wrong. The Vacuum servo only controls where the air goes. Ie floor, dash, front vents, etc.
That cable goes to another blend flap inside the blower box.
My guess is you've got something stuck in there or something binding the cable where it attaches to the blend flap.
Has it always been like this or is this something that has recently surfaced?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's been like that since I got the car at the beginning of April, and the PO said it had been like that for a while. I'm just trying to figure out how to get to that blower box without pulling the dash if that is possible. Of course, mofo, you would be the ideal candidate for that answer, glad the thread caught your attention.
 

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Re: (vw mofo)

Quote, originally posted by vw mofo »
I only know of one person who has succesfully pulled a blower box without pulling the dash in a Corrado and that was Oichan.
Getting the dash out really isn't that bad.

And from Oichan's pictures it wasn't much fun! I think if he did not have the cage in the way he would have taken the dash out in a heartbeat!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hmm... so how many hours would we be guessing on this one? I typically work on the car from when I get off work at 5 to dark which is about 8:30. I've gotten pretty quick about taking out the cluster and gauge surround portions of the dash, but I've not removed the steering wheel before. I guess this one might be pushed to the weekend, but I've already got plenty of work on the car planned for then. And I intend to do the timing chains the next weekend, so I'm allotting about 3 days for that, with a 4th day 'just in case'.
Speaking of which... I've got to get some torque wrenches for the job. The ones at Advance (AmPro, I believe) are only like $45, whereas the set at Lowe's is around $85-100. Obviously, I'd guess the Lowe's set is probably better, but with that large of a price margin, I'm questioning if the lesser expensive set is functional enough for my occasional usage. Any opinions?
 

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Re: (BLUE NRG)

well, when oichan did it, his car does not come with the damn kneebar.
so in the US, you would have to remove that hunk of metal too, if you are trying to avoid removing the dash.
ugh. damn US cars!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Is the kneebar for safety, shell rigidity, etc....? It's certainly in the way of a lot of things, and I do hear about a lot of people wanting to remove it for weight reduction. However, not having airbags, I'd prefer to keep as many safety features as possible. Even though the thing looks like it would just shatter your knees/thighs in a major head on accident. I'm guessing it improves frame strength for side impact?
 
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