[CD155MX]

Minor update :laugh:

HORN REPLACEMENT

Last weekend I did a pretty minor repair. My low tone horn stopped working. Let me tell you it's sure embarassing when you need to honk at someone and your horn is the most pathetic sounding thing on the road.:banghead: I picked up a set of new horns from fixmyvw.com. I was going to just buy the one, but for somethinbg like $7 more I could just replace them both.

Here's the horns from the kit. Loud honking abilities restored.

http://www.fixmyvw.com/clearance-premium-sound-dual-tone-horn-kit-for-audi-tt-a6-vw-golf-jetta-gti-new-beetle-and-passat-5-year-warranty-3b0951221-3b0951223-1-set/

How they sound:

 

[CD155MX]

3-11-17
81,037 Miles

1. Throttle Body and Intake Air Temp Sensor Cleaning
2. Power Steering Fluid

1. TB and AIT Sensor Cleaning

• Started by disconnecting the battery.

• Throttle body removed.

• TB and AIT were actually cleaner than I anticipated.

• My high tech parts washing setup

• Clean

• Parts back in

2. Power Steering Fluid Change

• Quasi Flush

-I know this isn't a full flush or anything, but it couldn't hurt. I sucked out as much old fluid as I could from the reservoir and put fresh fluid in.

 

[CD155MX]

Vagcom, VCDS

Splurged a little bit and got myself a legitimate Vagcom setup. Looking forward to using it.

 

[Loshambo]

Very impressive thread. Impressive wrenching abilities too. It's great to see someone actually restoring their 20th as opposed to throwing more mods at tired, molested 20ths. I would be inspired to follow your recommendations for Preventative maintenance, but my JB 20th is at 214,000 miles and it would not make economic sense to put all that money into my beloved and reliable GTI. Keep up the good work and don't let anyone tell you your car is worth any less than what it is worth to you. It's a future collectible and yours may well be the best example out there. I'm not one of those 'slam it' guys but your car actually has higher ride height than stock. If it works and handles better, than so be it.

 

[CD155MX]

I'm not one of those 'slam it' guys but your car actually has higher ride height than stock. If it works and handles better, than so be it.

Thank you for the kind words. Yes, the car is higher than stock. I'm currently at a height that closely mimics the old Shine Racing setup, but using my current PSS9 coils. I'll admit it looks goofy, but it seems to handle better.

 

[Mikey Scraps]

Thanks again for the recommendation with the SAI question. I am emailing back and forth with them now. Just wanted to say super clean 20th and wish this was for sale so I could buy yours instead

Ill be sure to follow this thread, love what you are doing with the car!

 

[03_uni-B]

I really should venture into the 3/2/G forum more often. Good work :beer::beer:

 

[CD155MX]

I really should venture into the 3/2/G forum more often. Good work :beer::beer:

Thanks! That reminds me. I have a few changes and pics saved in my phone from stuff done over the past few months. I need to get off my butt and update the thread.

 

[abouman1]

Awesome thread! Sort of reminds me of my current GLI project, bought it after the timing belt blew and have been slowly fixing all the little annoyances since. :thumbup:

edit: Also double thumbs up on the cleanest work bench I've seen lately!

 

[CD155MX]

7-6-17
20th Recaros Installation

I debated on doing this for a long time. I really like the feeling of the Recaro Speed Seats, but also wanting a more OEM look and feel to the car. Having all the airbags working is also nice thing to have on a car that is a daily driver.

• Carpets - After pulling the Recaro Speed Seats I went to town vacuuming the carpets really well. These are the only two pics I grabbed after putting the floor mats back down.
  
  Driver Side
  
  
  
  Passenger Side
  
  
  
  
• The OEM 20th Recaros - I found these on Ebay. They were the closest thing to Mint I could find.
  
  
  
  
• Installed in the Car - New Seats installed. These are taking some getting used to after coming out of the Recaro Speeds, but it's nice to have all the airbags working again and have that OEM 20th look.
  
  

 

[CD155MX]

11-3-17
84,323 Miles

1. OIL CHANGE

1. Oil Change - Last oil change was 80,668 miles

• Motul 5W-40 8100 X-clean Full Synthetic
• Mann Filter

​

 

[CD155MX]

12-8-17
NEW REAR TIRES

Had a bit of trouble on the way to work on 12-6-17. End result was 2 new rear tires for the car.

• Destroyed tire - Ran over a nail with the right rear. I drove for at least a couple of miles before I noticed the tire being low. The sidewall on the backside was wayy worse than the front side.
  
  
  
  
• Spare Installed -Luckily I carry some rubber gloves and a small blanket in the car and was able to install the spare in full dress clothes without getting dirty at all and not be late for work. This is the first time the spare has ever had to be used on the car.
  
  
  
  
• New Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's in the Rear - I had been meaning to replace my rear tires (Worn out Nito NT-05's) for a while. Was planning on buying new rears after the first of the year. Fronts are still the Hankook Ventus RS3's with about 10k on them now. When I get around to it I'll prob rotate them to the back.
  
  

 

[flat6turboGT1]

12-8-17
NEW REAR TIRES

Had a bit of trouble on the way to work on 12-6-17. End result was 2 new rear tires for the car.

• Destroyed tire - Ran over a nail with the right rear. I drove for at least a couple of miles before I noticed the tire being low. The sidewall on the backside was wayy worse than the front side.
  
  
  
  
• Spare Installed -Luckily I carry some rubber gloves and a small blanket in the car and was able to install the spare in full dress clothes without getting dirty at all and not be late for work. This is the first time the spare has ever had to be used on the car.
  
  
  
  
• New Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's in the Rear - I had been meaning to replace my rear tires (Worn out Nito NT-05's) for a while. Was planning on buying new rears after the first of the year. Fronts are still the Hankook Ventus RS3's with about 10k on them now. When I get around to it I'll prob rotate them to the back.
  
  

Always love seeing this thread get updated.

As a former tire designer I can’t help but emphasize ALWAYS put the newest tires on the rear of the car.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[CD155MX]

Always love seeing this thread get updated.

As a former tire designer I can’t help but emphasize ALWAYS put the newest tires on the rear of the car.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks!

Interesting comment about the tires. Is this true even on a FWD car? What is the reasoning behind it? (genuinely curious)

 

[flat6turboGT1]

Interesting. What is the reasoning behind this? (genuinely curious)

The reason is that, contrary to popular belief, the depth of your tread is there for water(or snow) evacuation while your vehicle is moving. It’s not there for “traction” as so many put it.

While driving, if you encounter any form of water in an amount that the tires cannot evacuate you’ll lose control of that corner of the car. This is a vehicle dynamics thing that has nothing to do with driven wheels, as so many people think. While you ideally want all of your tires to be of a similar wear level, if that is not possible it is a much better practice to ensure that your front wheels will give up grip before your rear wheels do. It is much easier to save a car that is still pointed straight than it is to catch one that is sideways or worse.

I believe Michelin has some demo videos circulating the internet demonstrating this in a skid pad. I used to participate in these demos at my work and it is staggering how much higher speed you can maintain a vehicle on the pad with newer tires on the rear.

Most of the big tire shops now will also not even allow you to leave with new tires on the front. I’ve witnessed a few heated conversations between customers and tire dealers on this topic where the customer swears they know best. Wish I had some old demo videos on hand to show them otherwise.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[CD155MX]

The reason is that, contrary to popular belief, the depth of your tread is there for water(or snow) evacuation while your vehicle is moving. It’s not there for “traction” as so many put it.

While driving, if you encounter any form of water in an amount that the tires cannot evacuate you’ll lose control of that corner of the car. This is a vehicle dynamics thing that has nothing to do with driven wheels, as so many people think. While you ideally want all of your tires to be of a similar wear level, if that is not possible it is a much better practice to ensure that your front wheels will give up grip before your rear wheels do. It is much easier to save a car that is still pointed straight than it is to catch one that is sideways or worse.

I believe Michelin has some demo videos circulating the internet demonstrating this in a skid pad. I used to participate in these demos at my work and it is staggering how much higher speed you can maintain a vehicle on the pad with newer tires on the rear.

Most of the big tire shops now will also not even allow you to leave with new tires on the front. I’ve witnessed a few heated conversations between customers and tire dealers on this topic where the customer swears they know best. Wish I had some old demo videos on hand to show them otherwise.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good info. Thanks!

 

[CD155MX]

For anybody the cares about F-150's, I started a similar thread for my truck. Link added to first page on this thread too.
http://www.f150ecoboost.net/forum/1...aintenance-thread-2013-fx4-cc-ec-6-5-bed.html

 

[CD155MX]

3-16-18
NEW REAR TIRES AGAIN (Kind of)

I had moved the "good" rear tires to the front of the car and ran it that way for a few weeks. After a bit I decided it was time to replace them to match my fronts.

• Car up on the lift
  
  
  
  
• Worn out rears
  
  
  
  
• New Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's in the Rear and getting alignment checked - Now I've got PS2's in the front and rear. So far these tires feel far better than the Hankook RS-3's and Nitto NT-05's I previously had. Enjoying the car even more now.
  
  

 

[CD155MX]

Rear Ended

7-25-18
Got Rear Ended

As I was driving home from work, the guy behind me wasn't paying attention and very lightly rear ended me. Slight damage on left side of bumper :banghead::banghead::banghead:

 

[CD155MX]

8-26-18
89,000 Miles

1. Oil Change
2. Tire Rotation and Air Filter Cleaning
3. Exhaust Rattle Fixed
4. Crank Position Sensor

1. OIL CHANGE - Last oil change was 84,323 miles

• Liqui Moly 5W-40 Molygen Full Synthetic
• Mann Filter

2. Tire Rotation and Air Filter Cleaning - Figured I'd just do them while waiting for my oil to drain out.

3. Exhaust Rattle Fix - I had been experiencing a rattle from under the car at low revs when the car was under a load (like when taking off from a stop). It was irritating as all hell. Since the car was on ramps this was the perfect time to fix it. Turns out it was a very simple fix. Just had to tighten the clamp.

4. Crank Position Sensor - I had a few issues with the car intermittently almost stalling and the car taking too long to crank sometimes. Had my suspicions that it was the crank position sensor. I was waiting to do my oil change until I had a sensor in hand. The sensor sits right next to the oil filter. Swapping the sensor was much easier with the oil filter out of the way.

-The old sensor tested wayy lower than the new one on the ohm meter. It was either junk or soon on it way to being junk.