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2007 Jetta City, 2.0L (Yes, its a mk4)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi! I'm new here, but I just wanted to make a thread about my Jetta and how far I've come since I bought it. I'm not exactly sure what I'm turning it into but I just wanted to document it for myself, but also for anyone else. Mk4's have a ton of 'quirks,' so if yours has some of the same 'quirks,' you can learn from me. Most of this will be fixes tbh, my girl is a piece. I will try to post about other things too! I have put in a double din and a sub. I have photos to help guide you through because the city is different from the rest of the mk4 gen. Took me forever to make a fix for it, but I'll post all about it so other people can figure it out w me. Feel free to post your opinions or if you know how to fix some of my issues feel free to mention it! Anyway... here's my girl when I bought it:

Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light Car


She is a 2007 Jetta City 2.0L, 5sp
I bought her in December of 2021, with 278,000km on her.

This is her now:

Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Plant Automotive side marker light


I will try to break down everything that I have done so far, but that will be in the posts to follow. :)
 

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2007 Jetta City, 2.0L (Yes, its a mk4)
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Did I post that and promptly forget... maybe. BUT! I'm back! With a fix for not 1 but 2 engine codes because I've seen some people on this site with these issues but never together. The way I fixed it also was not mentioned. So P2196 - oxygen sensor signal stuck rich and P0131 - oxygen sensor circuit low voltage. These codes only came on if the car was idling for more than 2 or 3 mins, which sucks because I do try to let the old girl warm up before I leave the house. P0131 came on every time I idled, and P2196 only came on sometimes but only if I idled excessively. Before anything else, I did replace my oxygen sensor almost directly after I got the car, I can't remember exactly why or what the code was but I remember doing it. So, with knowing the sensor is fine, I started looking at some forums saying P0131 could be a wire shortage or something electrical wire-wise. I know she does have electrical issues, (my reverse lights refuse to work,) but I still have to open up the plenum to check it out. One thing I never saw on this site was exhaust leaks. Cuz who in their right mind would think that? My car has rattled since the day I bought her but it was never really bad enough to be at the top of my fix list until the beginning of the week when the muffler broke off. I had a completely stock exhaust system mostly because my grandma hates loud cars and I visit her a lot, but when I went to get it fixed I figured I'd get a valved muffler put on and call it a day. The shop deleted the res for me as well because it was near falling off too, so now I just have a cat and my muffler. And ya know what? No more rattles and more importantly, no more engine codes. I've kept an eye on pending codes as well but nothing has shown up. I'm not entirely sure if this is an actual fix or what not and I will be getting into the plenum soon to check everything out there. But for now, no current engine lights and she's running happy again!

This was my exhaust leak:
White Hood Automotive tire Light Motor vehicle


As you can see very nicely chopped by the rust.
 

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2007 Jetta City, 2.0L (Yes, its a mk4)
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If anyone has seen my 2nd photo and wondered why I have 2 different sets of wheels on, here's your answer:
Okay, 2nd issue which I had so many questions about when I was trying to figure it out but it seems like this is just common knowledge. Aftermarket rims (or wheels! however you wanna call them) such as my bronze montegis have extremely small bolt holes. They require tuner lugs. The stock 17mm lug bolts are too wide, if I try to put them on I will scratch my rim. The wheels come with 27mm stock tuner bolts, great! What happens when I want to put spacers on? No one makes tuner extended lug bolts. Took hours of searching but everything I found just didn't quite work out. I have 10mm spacers in the front and 20mm spacers in the rear, meaning I need 40mm bolts in the front and 50mm bolts in the rear. No. 1 fix is install some wheel studs convert to lug nuts and call it a day. Tuner nuts are all over the place and super easy to find. 2nd option and the route that I took, our lord and saviour:
these things!
They only make 40mm and I have contacted them asking if they would ever make 50mm bolts even for a special order. They said no.
But!!! for all you 10mm spacer guys! You have tuner lug bolts that work fantastic! I have them in the front currently and they work great.
 

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2007 Jetta City, 2.0L (Yes, its a mk4)
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Putting in a double din for the jetta was actually pretty easy, it wasn't a straight plug and play but it wasn't bad.
Everyone I know has used a pioneer for the swap but I found a deal at visions for an SSL DD7CPA. It was only about $150 and I only bought a wiring harness and a dash kit. Altogether I spent just over $200. I didn't include a rearview camera but the radio now has apple car play and bluetooth which were massive upgrades.
The biggest difference between the city and the rest of the mk4 gen is the radio connector. VW decided to put a 1998 golf radio in the 2007 city. I was living in 1998 for far too long.
This is what the radio looked like:
Vehicle Automotive design Office equipment Electronic instrument Window

This is what the harness looked like:
Cloud Sky Hand Vehicle Automotive design


First step and most important for any radio install is: you're gonna wanna cut the back plastic out. You can use a dremel tool in order to do this. I marked lines where you should cut:
Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle

This ensures we have enough room behind the radio for all the extra wires. The radio will not fit nicely without this step.

Next the plug and play! I tried to label the additions that I made to the harness:
Finger Thumb Electrical wiring Gadget Nail


You have to cut the key sense wire, which is the little brown and red wire on the side. Then splice the power wire to a 3ft (about 3ft?? idk I'm Canadian) wire and send it to terminal 75x under the fuse box above the dead pedal. You should use a ring terminal for this. I didn't show this in the photo, but you're also going to attach a 3ft (again I'm guessing, it's probably less) wire to the memory wire and send this down to terminal 30, which is right beside terminal 75x. I tucked both of there's wires up above the pedals and used electrical tape to stick them to the other harnesses.

Here's a photo of the terminals:
Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design


This modification means the radio now has memory and will stay on until you take your key out of the ignition. Just like the factory radio.

The rest is simple soldering and heat shrink in order to turn this:
Circuit component Electrical wiring Cable Electronic engineering Composite material


Into this:
Purple Art Creative arts Magenta Electric blue


That little blue/white labelled wire is sent to the amp. So make sure you have a wire that is long enough to reach your amp attached to this blue/white wire before you fix in the radio.

You may notice that the harness I used in the photos and the one in the ad is different.
This is because I am not smart and didn't notice the connector difference. I went and changed this all and used the wiring harness I linked below. Don't be like me. Check your connectors before you start soldering.

Once you get this all connected, you can install the dash kit to your radio and install the radio into the car. It gives a super clean OEM look and I've finally been brought back into the present.
Car Automotive design Personal luxury car Reflex camera Cameras & optics


Wiring Harness
Dash Kit
 

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2007 Jetta City, 2.0L (Yes, its a mk4)
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A minor and rather stupid fix that sent me down an entire rabbit hole was my ebrake light flashing. The little red light, while I was driving would occasionally come on and beep and just continue flashing at me while I was driving. I assumed that this was a brake fluid issue because that's what everyone was telling me. When I bought the car, my right rear caliper was leaking so I was filling up a bit of brake fluid almost every week until I finally fixed it.
Oh BTW, the brakes on a 2007 Jetta city are the same as a 2005!
When I did all of this, I pretty much flushed my brake fluid and bled the entire system. I was having issues with a leaking abs pump as well, so that was also replaced.
However, even after all of this. Sometimes while driving, the ebrake light would still flash. I checked the brake fluid level but it was still up, it had no issue. I ended up buying a new brake switch because I was so frustrated with the lil blinking light.
I went to replace it, but the original switch was fine. I tested it, again and again, to be sure. Then I check the ebrake handle. And I realized exactly how loose it was. While I was driving, every time I hit a bit enough bump. The handle would come down and hit the switch triggering the beep and blinking. Even if it was released right after. I tightened the brake and voila! No more blinking red light. I'm not sure if this is common for mk4 but the adjustable screw does not stay put in my Jetta. It's constantly moving around no matter how much I tighten it. Is there anything I can do? It's nothing overly dangerous. But it does allow a ridiculous amount of play in the handle.
 
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