[Iz.ethn]

I’ll be replacing the oil Pan gasket, valve cover gasket, filter housing gasket, oil cooler ring, rear main seal, and all manifold gaskets. I’ll also be shooting some WD40 into the cylinders before I turn it over by hand. Also going to inspect and clean oil pump when I pull Pan off. I don’t plan on doing the cam seal, or any other passenger side seals as those are always a pain in the ass to get to. Let me know if that’s a terrible decision lol, I’ve never had them leak much on these engines.

Anything else I should do to make sure this engine will safely get back to running? I bought it from a parts yard, was running great when they got it they said.

I have a brand new ABA head gasket in a box I could put on it, but I don’t have new head bolts and this is my daily driver so I really don’t want to replace the head gasket unless you guys think it’s necessary after sitting all these years. If you DO think it’s necessary, do I still have to mill the head? Or can I just clean the mating surfaces and bolt the head back on since it never blew?
Thanks

 

[YJSAABMAN]

I would be replacing every bit of rubber on it including the rear main seal, front crank seal, cam seal, and aux shaft seal. To get to all those seals on the front the timing belt needs to come off, and it's rubber, so it should be replaced as well. Much easier to get to all of that with it out of the car than in the car when they start to leak after running it a bit.

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[Iz.ethn]

I would be replacing every bit of rubber on it including the rear main seal, front crank seal, cam seal, and aux shaft seal. To get to all those seals on the front the timing belt needs to come off, and it's rubber, so it should be replaced as well. Much easier to get to all of that with it out of the car than in the car when they start to leak after running it a bit.

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Doesn’t the crank pulley bolt have to be replaced every time it’s removed? Or is that only on the earlier 8v’s?