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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wondering if anyone here has run their R in STX. If so, parts suggestions are greatly appreciated.
 

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I'd love to, but my upgraded Haldex controller has me stuck in SM.:banghead:
If I were you I'd paint it silver and call it OEM :D
 

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I run my R in STX as much as possible and i'm fairly competitive at a regional level (normally top 1/3 or so in PAX all depends on who else is there :laugh:)

18x8 OZ Ultraleggeras
235/40/18 Bridgestone RE11s
KW V3s
Evoms stage 2 intake
UM NA Race tune
Autotech Adjustable 22mm RSB - Set on stiffest setting
Adjustable Lower Rear Control Arms
Adjustable RSB Endlinks
Slotted Rotors w/ EBC Red stuff brake pads - Seems to work alright for me
HPA Short Shifter with 42DD shift bushings
VF Motor Mounts/Dogbone Mount - Although i'm pretty sure these aren't technically legal in STX as it has to do with the metal/rubber ratio of the mount. I think the Dog bone mount is fine though.


First thing i'd get is some nice light weight wheels and good tires which will make the biggest difference and go from there. If my car was completely dedicated to autox i'd love to get some 17x8s and 245 tires and shed some weight with exhaust/brake combo, and get some custom spring rates done on the car but its/I'm not to that point yet.

Just go out there and drive and have some fun!
 

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There is a guy locally that runs his in STX sometimes since no one usually run in his class otherwise. He just run a stock R32. He is competitive in that up until the really optimized STX cars shows up, which are typically RX8s.

I think now he runs in RTA, since the amalgamated PAX class works better at getting more competitor in a class...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I run my R in STX as much as possible and i'm fairly competitive at a regional level (normally top 1/3 or so in PAX all depends on who else is there :laugh:)

18x8 OZ Ultraleggeras
235/40/18 Bridgestone RE11s
KW V3s
Evoms stage 2 intake
UM NA Race tune
Autotech Adjustable 22mm RSB - Set on stiffest setting
Adjustable Lower Rear Control Arms
Adjustable RSB Endlinks
Slotted Rotors w/ EBC Red stuff brake pads - Seems to work alright for me
HPA Short Shifter with 42DD shift bushings
VF Motor Mounts/Dogbone Mount - Although i'm pretty sure these aren't technically legal in STX as it has to do with the metal/rubber ratio of the mount. I think the Dog bone mount is fine though.


First thing i'd get is some nice light weight wheels and good tires which will make the biggest difference and go from there. If my car was completely dedicated to autox i'd love to get some 17x8s and 245 tires and shed some weight with exhaust/brake combo, and get some custom spring rates done on the car but its/I'm not to that point yet.

Just go out there and drive and have some fun!
I was trying to not sound pompous in my first post, but I feel it's worth pointing out that I'm a top 20-30 overall guy when in a reasonably prepped car. That's out of 130-150 drivers usually. Even with my car as is (intake, tune, wheels, tires, terrible ceramic brakes installed by previous owner) I finished top three out of 7 or so drivers in STX. Just looking for the suspension mods people ran, so thanks a ton for this post- where did you find your V3's, and how are they for the road? Strut bar? Do they even make those?
 

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I was trying to not sound pompous in my first post, but I feel it's worth pointing out that I'm a top 20-30 overall guy when in a reasonably prepped car. That's out of 130-150 drivers usually. Even with my car as is (intake, tune, wheels, tires, terrible ceramic brakes installed by previous owner) I finished top three out of 7 or so drivers in STX. Just looking for the suspension mods people ran, so thanks a ton for this post- where did you find your V3's, and how are they for the road? Strut bar? Do they even make those?
Hahha.. ohh it just sounded like you had never done autox before. My Mistake.. :laugh:

Anyways I got my V3's about 3 years ago right before the price jumped way up on them from ECS tuning(There was a discount and free shipping for around 1700 shipped). The V3s are absolutely fantastic on the road, still has a really nice ride, but then has the adjustability if you want to change them for the track.

There is another guy that runs his R32 down here who has competed and done well on a national level. I don't have any specific spring rates/shock valving on his setup but I believe its a custom ohlin setup and i know he runs some suspension spacers to keep the car sitting up higher at just about a stock height. I might be able to ask him about it next weekend at our next event.
 

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There is another guy that runs his R32 down here who has competed and done well on a national level. I don't have any specific spring rates/shock valving on his setup but I believe its a custom ohlin setup and i know he runs some suspension spacers to keep the car sitting up higher at just about a stock height. I might be able to ask him about it next weekend at our next event.
That would be me :)

The R is a fun car to autox, but is not a true top contender in STX - at least on concrete for tour events. We need more tire for the car to really work. On med-low grip surfaces the car really shines.

At a prosolo the launch brings it back to competitive as we're about 0.5 seconds quicker on the 60ft than most other cars in class.

To get out there and have some fun get a light set of 17x8 wheels, and any decent coilover setup - V3's are a good starting point. Don't go too stiff on sway bars as the R needs suspension compliance to work best. Also keep the car close to stock height as excessive lowering is also detrimental to handling.

Keep front toe at zero or just fractionally toed out. Front camber of approx -2 is a good starting point :beer:

Drive it like a front wheel drive with late apexes and using haldex as "straight line assist" as I like to say. Getting on the gas too soon (and too much) will result in mid corner push unless you are close to pointing in the right direction
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i run my MKV R in STX, I did the walk kit, (LCA bushings) and have done haldex as others have mentioned.
If you did the controller you'd be in DSP


Now that I've got my Miata running again and with a national championship-caliber engine build, I'm going to go back to both racing and DD-ing that car.
 

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I have a MkV R32 which I autox in STX. It is quite competitive: I'm often top of my class and top-10 or even top-5 PAX (~40-60 cars). I consistently lose in PAX to one BSP BMW, to one STS Miata, and to a stock (DS) Subaru WRX with street tires (Direzzas). I also lose on and off to an old Firebird that runs in my class. Those guys are *very* strong.

I "downgraded" my wheels to 17x8 (Enkei Racing) and this allowed me to mount 245x40R17 Hankook Ventus R-S3. 245 is the maximum width allowed for AWD cars in the class. I also run Koni FSD shocks, H&R rear sway bar (stiffest setting), Hawk HP+ pads, VF intake, Milltek catback, and APR 93 and 100 octane ECU programs (no boost obviously since it's a N.A. car). Stock springs and no camber plates. Koni FSD+stock springs = stock height, and despite no camber plates I'm pretty sure my car measures -1.5 camber at the shop (I did nothing to get there). Spare tire obviously out of the car for runs.

The car feels extremely balanced; the tires are fantastic; the DSG is a dream: upshifts by itself at red line, I can downshift at will in a heartbeat (car blips throttle for me), and I can use launch control off the start line. I don't want to see a stick ever again.

I think the only thing the R32 is clearly missing is going on a diet. I wonder if the Audi A3 3.2L does any better; I seem to remember its engine and chassis are part aluminum.

I've autoxed in another club where there was a guy with an MkIV R32. He was often top-four in PAX.

Bottom line: I do think the R32 is a very competitive car at the club level.
 
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