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KW DDC Coilovers for MK7 R - BEWARE BEFORE ORDERING

36K views 49 replies 18 participants last post by  ToucanLife  
#1 ·
Hello Everyone,

I would like to share my feedback on the KW DDC coilovers for the MK7 R so everyone could be aware before putting an order on these.
My car is a 2015 LSG MK7 R / DSG/DCC, few mods that are a set of VWR BBK as i do some track days, 034 Motorsport dogbone insert, JB1, VWR R600.
I was looking for a good set of coilovers that would fit the purpose of both road and occasional track use, I generally loved the stock suspension of the MK7 R both in track and on the road, managed to post some super fast laps in Dubai Autodrome and Yas Marina, most of the time giving Porsche GT4's a run for their money.

My Main purpose was to keep the DCC function so the car can remain comfy, lower the car a little for better looks and I thought any improvement on stock suspension would be welcome. (most springs in the market can only do one of those 3 things IMO, which is why i went the expensive way)

Made an order on these expensive coilovers a few months back, installation was nice and simple, first drive impressions, wow, forgot that the car was actually in race mode, it was very slightly harsher than stock on the road, turn in and handling initially felt better but i was nowhere near the limit.
Photo of them installed and the ride height:



The next day, I went to a nice stretch of empty roads to test the handling, and that is where problems have started.
First off, the handling was improved, however the behaviour of the car at the limit was not good at all, a lot of understeer that did not transfer into a lift off oversteer unless you were going very fast, stock suspension feels more neutral front to back but that was not even the real problem.
The real problem was when i started hearing massive clunking noises everytime I hit a slight road imperfection, or take a corner a bit faster than usual, upon further inspection, all front springs were massively binding against each other, and in ;ess than 300 kms only, the protective coating on the springs was wearing off (See photos).




I emailed KW about this issue, after going back and forth with loads of emails (one of the emails, I was advised that this suspension is not suitable to be used for track days!!!!!!!! see screenshot), I was asked to take loads of measurements for them to determine the issue, a few weeks, turned into a couple of months chasing KW for a solution to my problem, roughly 2-3 months down the line, I receive revised springs for the front only, the new springs had different part numbers.



I was happy to receive the new springs as i thought this would solve my issues, and i can enjoy the car again, went and paid for installation of new springs again, drove very well for the first few hours, no knocking noise anymore, handling improved massively with less understeer and a tail that was happier than ever, i thought the nightmare was finally over, to my surprise, the springs collapsed again once i drove over the next slight road imperfection and been knocking at any bump / turn since then as the front springs completely collapsed under normal pressure.


Bottom line of the story, you pay for a +3k $$$ worth of suspension, you pay install charges 3 times (because you have been use as KW's test pig), and then you get told that these should not be run on track.

I got so sick of this that I put my stock suspension back on because i cannot drive my car anymore the way it is.
Ive emailed KW on this subject yesterday, I'm hoping that KW would be decent enough to admit their mess on this suspension kit and refund my money, however I'm sure this will take weeks and weeks and the only victim here in the customer who paid +3K $ and installation charges 3 times (first time, second time, then back to stock).

For the record, there are a few others running the same suspension with similar issue so please beware before you order a KW DDC kit.


Please read carefully before ordering such kits, KW must resolve this issue as this is one of the worst experiences ever.


Regards,
 
#15 · (Edited)
The ride height on my R is well within the tolerances suggested by KW, it has almost 2" to go lower if it needs to but i'm not into that.
That may be fine, but you are still probably a inch or so lower than oem ride height, with that being said. You are putting your swaybars at an uneven orientation certainly if the ride height is not properly corner balanced (information was not given if it was or wasn't).

To add to this, there is no way to adjust preload with those oem endlinks if you did happen to corner balance the car. This may have no bearing on why the springs are binding but it is adding to the jarring sensation you claimed to have over bumps.

I'll agree with the information you received from KW as well. Those progressive springs are not intended at all for harsh environments. Bilstein will also go down this same path with progressive springs that will be equally useless for aggressive driving.

One of the good things MSS kits provided was a dual linear spring setup (for the rear) and "aggressive" dual rate progressive spring for the front. A slightly more costly setup but much more stable under full load and less prone to spring binding.

Good luck on the progress.
 
#17 ·
OP, I'm sorry your having so much issues with your setup. The spring rate obviously isn't right for the weight of the vehicle and/or the springs are just down right defective.


I'm happy to report that my 7 month old ST XTA coilovers (made by KW) use standard linear coils does not have the problem your seeing.
Did ST list the spring rate anywhere? Do you happen to know the dimensions of the spring?
 
#25 · (Edited)
Image


Image


I'm definitely interested in this. I just got my DDC coils installed recently too. My front springs are a bit different than yours, but I didn't get mine from KW, I bought them from a fellow vortex member.
Does yours have the helper spring?

I haven't heard any clunking. There was a bit of noise in the beginning but I figured out that the shop I brought it to didn't tighten down the strut mount bolts enough and the sound went away. In the beginning the car was set up way too low and it did ride pretty crappy but after I raised it up it has been much better. Although I haven't been able to take it on any crazy backroads yet to really test it out and I got a lot of suspension stuff (super pro LCAs, dead set kit, rear subframe kit, f&r sway bars) installed at the same time so it's hard to pinpoint exactly the difference each makes. It's for sure a much better handling car then it was before.

Also is that the stock bump stops and shock shroud thing in there? I'm pretty sure mine came with different bump stops with out that shroud thing.

Also to vw671 I have some adjustable front endlinks. How do I go about figuring out how long they need to be for no preload?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
#26 · (Edited)
Also is that the stock bump stops and shock shroud thing in there? I'm pretty sure mine came with different bump stops with out that shroud thing.

Also to vw671 I have some adjustable front endlinks. How do I go about figuring out how long they need to be for no preload?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
There is no specific length the endlink needs to be, but generally the bar should be parallel with the road when the full weight of the car is on the tires (driver weight in car highly recommended).
To do this, you'll need to disconnect a endlink from one side and then adjust the other one connected until the bar is at the correct orientation (as good as possible without extending the threads too far)
Image

This depiction is not entirely accurate to our specific setup. This showcases a design where the endlink is connected underneath the ASB. Our cars has the endlink connected above the ASB to the shock body. Some companies move the shock body connection down, thus the use of shorter endlinks, but in all cases, you'll need to extend the endlink the lower the car gets, oppose to reducing the length as depicted here and in the video below.

Setting the preload is the second step in making sure both left and right points are not binding or pulling on each other. To do this, adjust the disconnected endlink thread's down until you can easily position the bolt through the ASB hole. If the endlinks have spherical bearings, make sure both upper and lower points are swiveling and binding in the same direction. Once that is set, tighten both points and then start to adjust the middle bar so that the threads move freely and loosely without any tension. Once your are happy with that. Tighten everything down to the recommended torque specs.


Should be noted again, that this must be done with all wheels fully loaded and flat on the ground. Also one endlink on both the rear and front should be disconnected, generally cross from each other. So left front and right rear, vice versa. If none of this makes sense, watch the video below. If that doesn't make sense. I'll clarify further :thumbup:.

 
#27 · (Edited)
Hello Everyone,
Those are 'dead' coils and should not have any play in them when loaded. The binding sound you are hearing is most likely above the dead coils. The springs should have came with a rubber spring sleeve that can be moved to dampen the other portion of the springs from hitting each other.

My car was slammed after the springs settled on my V1s and had no issues. That being said, after raising the height 1/4 inch the noises began. Quite unbearable on roundabounts and speed bumps. LMAO. Just before an alignment the sleeves were re positioned and the noises were no longer audible.

Keep in mind the DCC and V1 (i think v2 as well) are progressive springs, and by nature, unpredictable for pushing limits. But they do their job in comfort and lowering.

You can try to lower the height a bit, but I doubt that'll help..., or just adjust the sleeves, I'm sure you'll be able to get rid of the noise

edit...
oh, or you can consider getting spring rubbers to up the spring rate.

Off topic and just a thought...I wonder why KW NA doesn't supply helper springs for our application
 
#31 ·
I highly doubt it is as well, it looks as if you only have a bit of coil rub on the very last wind. This is pretty common and isn't a problem. You'd only need to be worried if the middle coils were also touching.

I think in OP case, his bump stops are inadequate for the springs used at that height, added to the fact the rate is too low.
 
#34 ·
Hey all - I have a set of KW v2's on my 16 R w/o DCC and I am having the same exact issues as OP...sharp clunking noise over any imperfections in the road as well as all the paint marred off of the coils. I am not slammed, maybe 1.5 inch drop over stock.

I was just about to have my local shop (NGP) take them off and send them back to KW for warranty work but KW seems to not be able to remedy the problem at this point. I am not about to pay a bunch of labor for removal/reinstall if KW can't even sort out the problem which is just going to cost me more money for removal/reinstall if their fix doesn't work.

I know that these are issues that can come up when modding a car, but I think its pretty unacceptable for a $2,000 coilover kit that was bought brand new to be having these kind of problems. I have never had any of these sorts of problems with other Coilover manufactures before.

That being said, I will never buy anything KW again. Hopefully I can get a refund for them. :banghead:
 
#35 · (Edited)
FWIW, here's my ST XTA coil as of last night with 7 months on them and about 3k miles with 2 hard runs on country roads (1 with a passenger). Car is lowered about 1" lower than stock. Absolutely no paint damaged at all. Compression damping hasn't been changed to how they were delivered which is set in the middle of the range slightly on the softer side.

Is it possible that there just isn't enough compression damping in "comfort" or "normal" mode w/ DCC?

Image
 
#36 ·
I had KW V3s and had the same issues. They tried to tell me it was an isolated issue and no one else is having this problem... I also spent +$3k in install/diagnosing with no recourse. I returned them to kw. They have severely disappointing customer service also. Legit *******s who only try to blame installers for any and all issues.
 
#44 ·
I would like to bump this thread up with an update from KW.
1- The frustration continues, KW does not want to own up to its mistake, they are claiming that the ride height was set too high which has damaged the first set of springs in the first place, this is total bull$hit as the ride height was set within the recommended setting at the time of install and never adjusted further, the car was dropped by around 25mm all around.
2- They are also claiming that the top mount was not installed correctly (based on absolutely no photos or whatsoever), despite the fact that I have personally ensured that this was done correctly at the time of install and I?m sure it was correct and as per KW?s installation manual.
3- They want to send me another set of stiffer springs for front only (regardless of how that?s gonna affect the handling), while still insisting that they believe that the original set which was softer was not defective! I have asked if they believe the original set was fine in terms of spring rate, WHY ARE THEY SENDING A STIFFER ONE?

KW simply does not want to own up to the fact that their system does not work and will continue arguing otherwise, this is what kind of customer service KW offers!!

PS ? Photo of my car with the KW?s on, as per KW, they believe this is too high to the point where it?s going to damage the springs J

<a href="https://ibb.co/gywAgF"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/m7agov/RRR.jpg" alt="RRR" border="0" /></a>
 
#45 ·
Technical they are right with the first problem. I believe i alluded to this previously. The dead coils (tightly wound) are only supposed to be preloaded so much before they will start to act as a bump stop of sorts. This undoubtedly does not work well with kits that are made for a small predetermined ride height range. Considering you have the coils wound up pretty high on the adjustment level, you are potentially out of the recommended zone. So yes, they are within reason to say your ride height is out of the specified zone for those springs.

Keep in mind, KW does not take into account the clearance of wheels larger than the oem specification. So you being above or below the clearance allowance they've made for the oem wheels is outside of their parameters if the tires are rubbing or the car is bottoming out.

But i agree this is a poor issue. None the less, the kit should have came with linear springs

Also that link is dead or incorrectly listed.
 
#48 ·
So an update to bump this thread up:

KW are blaming that ride height is set "TOO HIGH" again, and completely refused to do a refund.
They have asked that they send me a revised set of springs, and i try to sell someone else (basically try to sell their defective kit) and they will offer me a discount on my next purchase.

It is an absolute disgrace, I have asked in 10 different emails what is their explanation for the failure of the first replacement set they sent me, and ever response was avoiding the question.

For the record, there are so many people having this issue, so please make sure never to purchase the KW DDC, not only it is a defective kit, KW will rip you off and wont pay you your money back.

See attached photos for reference.








to upload photos
 
#50 ·
KW has never lived up to the online phrase to me - the spring rates are always poorly matched and I have had issues on my KWV2 of rusting shock shafts which corroded enough over winter to cause a divot in the shaft where you can hear the pressure behind the oil seal leak out when the shock compresses past it. KW basically told me I was SOL and had to pay $450 for a new damper as it wasn't their fault.

Also heres a bent KW off my other car (MK4) from a light pothole impact - again KW said I was SOL and I had to pay 550 for a new damper at full price with no discount :thumbdown:

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