Excellent post. Good info.

 

Re: Limp Mode, P0722 OBD code, and Vehicle Speed Sensor (nc_ron)

99.5 VW JETTA 2.0 AEG
I had an identical issue (P0722) at 180,000 miles. The G68 ($65) was the issue. Whether it was the sensor or the wiring I do not know. I measured the resistance of all the transmission speed sensors and came up with values very close to 800 ohms. After reading your post I decided to replace the sensor. Hind site if I were to do anything different I would probably have cleaned the contact of the G68 sensor because it had a little (and I mean a fraction) of white residue on the ground terminal of the plug. 10,000 miles before I had transmission problems, my coolant flange blew and it is located above all of these transmission sensors. It's possible that hot coolant residue could have dripped down the ground wire into the plug of the G68 sensor. My recommendation would be to clean the transmission speed sensor terminals/plugs, clear the code with any OBD tester, and see if the issue was resolved.
After I replaced the G68 sensor, my car was still in limp mode and check engine light on. I borrowed a buddies OBD (which he purchased from Walmart for ~$60) cleared the existing codes and the check engine light extinguished and car returned to normal condition. I was skeptical if the OBD would clear the check engine light since I read transmission issues are stored in the TCM. In my case the cheap OBD worked and I'm on the road again... well at least moving at a reasonable speed.
Thanks for the post. Knowing my car, I'm sure I'll be back for some unrelated issue.

 

Another nice post!
So in your case the OBDII code checker did clear the TCM code. This would mean that the ECM had to communicate this to the TCM. I wonder if it would clear all codes or just codes that translate into "P" codes???

 

Re: (CoolAirVw)

Hey guys
I have kind of the same problem with Golf 1999 auto transmission.
Here is the story. A year ago my transmission goes into limp mode. I found out the speed sensor on top of the transmission was cut Who the hell know how. I called a friend of mine mechanic and he was able to rewire it and clean the codes. Worked fine for 2 or 3 months and goes back to limp mode so i clean the code P0175 and works fine for some time. it happened again yesterday so I have to clean the code again to make it drive on all gears. Any idea pleases help.
Thank you

 

Similar Issue

Hey guys
I have kind of the same problem with Golf 1999 auto transmission.
Here is the story. A year ago my transmission goes into limp mode. I found out the speed sensor on top of the transmission was cut Who the hell know how. I called a friend of mine mechanic and he was able to rewire it and clean the codes. Worked fine for 2 or 3 months and goes back to limp mode so i clean the code P0175 and works fine for some time. it happened again yesterday so I have to clean the code again to make it drive on all gears. Any idea pleases help.
Thank you

I am having a similar issue in my Jetta, but I didn't see where anyone had commented on this post...? Anyone have any thoughts? I think my culprit may be a bad plug end since I have a new G38 sensor, so I'm also wondering where I might find one of those, too? Thanks!

 

I have both codes P0722 and P0715. I already replaced the G38 speed sensor which is the easy one of the 2. Waiting for the G68 to come in the mail so I can reaplce that one also. Does anyone know if you have a bad G68 that it will give u a code for the other speed sensor as well? Or should I be looking else where for a problem.

 

I've never seen a problem with one cause a code for the other. But I have seen both bad. And I've seen a computer bad that caused codes on both.

 

After replacing the G38 the code for it was still there along with the other code. I'm getting the idea that the G68 I'm gunna replace isn't gunna fix those 2 codes either.

 

How did you clear the code? Any battery charging or jumpstarting in your cars recent history.

 

I cleared the codes with a Genric scanner out of the ECM. Codes went away completely until I started driving a few blocks and then they came right back and trans went right back into limp mode. There has been no battery charging or jump starting in the cars recent history. Why? I have the G68 coming in the mail tommrow. So I will be putting that in as soon as it get here's but for some reason I don't think that will fix it.

 

There has been no battery charging or jump starting in the cars recent history. Why? .

The one I mentioned that had both G68 and G38 codes caused by a bad TCM had been jump started and my theory was that they hooked the cables up backwards.

I cleared the codes with a Genric scanner out of the ECM. Codes went away completely until I started driving a few blocks and then they came right back

Both codes came back or just the 722?

 

Both codes came back. P0715 & p0722

 

Ok so, got my brand new G68 speed sensor in the mail yesterday. Got it all installed, what a pain in the ass that was, having to sling the engine and trans to removed the transmission mount. After I removed the trans mount visually inspected grounds and everything around there. Everything looked fine. Installed the new sensor. Put everything back together. Cleared code out of the ECM with a genric scanner. It been 2 days now and 50 miles later and the codes have not come back and the trans now has all 4 gears again. So my question is this? Is it possible to get both fault codes P0715 and P0722 if you have a bad G68 speed sensor? All I did was replace the G68 and it took care of both codes. I never even touch any of the other sensors or unplugged any of the harnesses while replacing the G68. Hopifully there codes will stay gone for a long time now. Not sure if this was the proper way to go about fixing it or if it is truely fixed or not but as for these 2 days and 50 miles later it seems to be.

 

.... the codes have not come back and the trans now has all 4 gears again. So my question is this? Is it possible to get both fault codes P0715 and P0722

I've never seen that before but stranger things have happened! I'm glad your car is fixed.

yeah another cause of this could be just below operational amount of fluid. if you get this code check your fluid level before anything else because u will end up gettin the sensor and all that **** and the ****ing code will throw again...idk about most people but i know id flip a ****..so check that ****

Low fluild will NOT cause a speed sensor code.

 

yeah another cause of this could be just below operational amount of fluid. if you get this code check your fluid level before anything else because u will end up gettin the sensor and all that **** and the ****ing code will throw again...idk about most people but i know id flip a ****..so check that ****

 

i drained my fluid and put new fluid in and it stayed away after i got it cleared. but im just sayin

 

Was replacing a T-belt on a 1.8T beetle yesterday and saw the CEL was on...checked it out and I had both of these faults G68 and G38....saw signs of rodent damage and removed the airbox....found the wires from the g68 at the connector had been chewed through....just ordered a new G68 and should have this thing up and going tomorrow...

 

P0722 OBD code, and Vehicle Speed Sensor,Vehicle not moving at all

Hi, I have 1996 Passat GLX VR6 2.8L automatic in my garage, that is not moving.
Regardless what gear you chose from P to L its not moving. I'm not sure, but I think this is not some weird "limp mode", its most likely something else.
Generic scan tool reads P0722 code and its showing that is transmission code, not able do delete it. It delete it, but when I turn ignition of and on and scan again its there again.
Transmission is CLB, 01M, and two speed sensors are one next to another spaced about 3 inches on the top of transmission.
Removed trans oil pan and about 2 1/2 quarts of trans fluid was there.
Checked resistance at the trans control module connector under rear seat between wires 20-65(for G68 sensor) and wires 21-66(for G38 sensor) resistance was 0.731Kohm(G68) and 0.756Kohm(G38), Mitchell says: min 0.8Kohm, max 0.9Kohm, so this test tests wires and the sensors at the same time.
If we assume that code P0722 indicates bad G68 sensor, and on another hand we have similar test results for both sensors, I'm thinking that either they are both good or both bad.
Talked to local VW dealer and also ebay parts seller, and local parts store(Advance auto parts), and this is what i found: G68 and G38 are the same sensors, part # is 095 927 321 C. Ebay part number is SC198(and its correlated to S8246), S8246 is Advance auto parts number. My Mitchell also states that two sensors are the same(on the picture noted like #63), and the part number from Mitchell is the same like the dealer # 095 927 321 C.
So regardless what sensor you are after, you can bay one(095 927 321 C) and used it instead of G68 or G38.
I'm going to replace filter and trans fluid and see if that is going to help, if not my next guess is checking fluid pressure(fluid pump bad or stuck valve..?)

 

Hi, I have 1996 Passat GLX VR6 2.8L automatic in my garage, that is not moving.

Your wasting your time. If your car wont move and its full of fluid, then you probably need trans.

 

Failure of relay 109 suspected to cause limp mode

This forum has been a great help to me as I never had a VW before, and I’m not familiar with them.
I’m quite good in fixing cars and motorcycles, and I’ve been doing it since I was 16. People say it is a talent, but to me it is just logic…like solving a puzzle. When fixing a car there is always a solution, so the only problem is to be able to find it.
Because of this, I always buy cars around 10 years old with some kind of problem as long as they look clean, and they are more or less drivable so I can drive them home. So far, the maximum I paid to fix any of these cars is £100 and that particular car cost me £360 from an ebay auction. 3 years and 60k miles later the car still runs like new!
Anyway this time I bought a 1999 VW golf TDI Automatic from ebay again. The car looked in excellent condition and after inspecting it further it looks like it has been serviced to high standard, clean bodywork and rust free, new-ish belts, new turbo actuator, no noises, and no leaks apart from the usual bit of oil from the draining plug and a bit near the turbo, which is probably from the engine head cover gasket.
The description said "loss of power, and sometimes it does not start". Scary to most people so I won the auction easy at £570. I got a lift from a friend and picked up the car, which surprisingly started straight away and drove off. The loss of power was evident from the very beginning. The car was ridiculously slow from standstill, OK when it picked up some speed, but it would not go into overdrive (4th gear) on the motorway. We all know this is limp mode (stuck in gear 3), so I drove 30 miles revving it like crazy to keep it at 70-80mph. On the way I stopped to put some fuel, and the car would not start again! This was scary for a bit. The engine was turning, but it would not fire up. I noticed there was no glow plug light coming up, so I opened the bonnet and tapped here and there, tried again…light came up and started… I was lucky!!!
Next morning the car would not start again! After a lot of trying and tapping here and there it started! I decided to try the gears, and noted that if it was on 1 it will pull strong, in 2 a bit less, and when in 3 and D it was the same! Clearly the gearbox was OK, but the car was in limp mode.
I started reading in forums about the starting problem and I came to the conclusion it was the “relay 109” causing the problem. I have the black one which is the old/problematic one and not the new revised one in grey. I opened it up and had a look…it looked OK and it was shiny like new! After further reading about it, I realized that the problem is usually the soldering point cracking which is hard to notice if not familiar with it. I had a better look and it was cracked indeed, and exactly where it was expected. I took out my soldering gun and some solder and applied a lot of it, to ensure it will not crack again. I also did the rest of the soldering points just to be safe! I put it back in the car, and the starting problem is now solved for good!!
I also noticed in the forums people are asking if the relay 109 can cause the car to go in limp mode, which also was my second problem. Everybody says no, it will not… but they also say that this relay supplies power to a lot of systems of the car. I had my doubts and I decided to give it a go. I don’t have a Vag-com so I had no idea what codes were stored in the ECU and the TCU, but all I wanted to do is clear them. I know a nifty trick which usually works in most cars and clears the codes (or at least some of the codes).
Here is what I do:
1) Disconnect the battery
2) Switch on the lights (obviously they will not light without the battery).
3) Touch the positive battery cable to the negative battery cable (the cables that go on the battery poles) for 3-4 seconds.
4) Switch off the lights and reconnect the battery, and you are done.
It’s very easy and effective trick and requires no tools, so it may save you some money.

Anyway, after I did this, I noticed the difference straight away when put the car in “D”!! It kicked forward a little bit like it is supposed to do, and pressing the accelerator the car took off with full power. I drove it around up to 40mph for 15 minutes and it works spot-on!
Now I need to take it on the motorway and test the overdrive, and if it works, which I’m sure it will, the car is fixed. If not I will let you know here.

Oh, I forgot to say that I did also check the G38 and G68 speed sensors with a multimeter. In the forums it says they have to give 800ohm. In my car both of them give 759 or 769 I don’t remember exactly now. However since the reading was identical, close to 800, and the chances both of them going bad at the same time are not many, I assumed they are OK. I did not check the sensor G22 because if this one goes bad the speedometer in the car will not work and in my car it is working.

So, it looks like this time I was very lucky and with the help of the online forums, I fixed the car with zero cost, so I decided to share and maybe help somebody else save some money too!
In my opinion so far, failure of relay 109 in a VW golf mk4 can cause the car to go in limp mode, and there is a good chance the same applies to VW Jetta, Bora, Passat, Beetle, and possibly in some Audi too, as the “relay 109” pops-up in forums related to these cars too.

Good luck everybody

 

Great!

Simply great post. I believe 100% that most of the electrical issues with sensors are due to weak soldering. My granmother use to work at N.A.S.A and she brought me up right. Thank you very much for your information and taking the time to share such an invaluable lesson.
I too am working on a situation with my daughters 97 Passat vr6 glx. with an 01m tranny. The speedometer has been acting up. The needle on the mph speedometer would flicker up and down just as the tranny was going to shift when you got on it! I am getting a P0725 code which is a transmission speed sensor malfunction. I have ordered a oem factory replacement. Will put it on tomorrow, but reading the posts on here it must be located behind the trans mount under the car. Fun fun fun. Let me know if you have any diagrams showing the location of such. But anyway, thanks again.

 

Simply great post. I believe 100% that most of the electrical issues with sensors are due to weak soldering. My granmother use to work at N.A.S.A and she brought me up right. Thank you very much for your information and taking the time to share such an invaluable lesson.
I too am working on a situation with my daughters 97 Passat vr6 glx. with an 01m tranny. The speedometer has been acting up. The needle on the mph speedometer would flicker up and down just as the tranny was going to shift when you got on it! I am getting a P0725 code which is a transmission speed sensor malfunction. I have ordered a oem factory replacement. Will put it on tomorrow, but reading the posts on here it must be located behind the trans mount under the car. Fun fun fun. Let me know if you have any diagrams showing the location of such. But anyway, thanks again.

The speed sensor that is under the mount (g68) doesn't input to the speedo. It usually triggers p0722. The G22 which is above the differential goes to the speedo.

 

98 passat automatic trans with trip tronic in auxilary mode

so i changed a fuse in my car today and when i went to leave again i realised my gear shift selector was all lit up not just the gear i am in so i went to the manual and it says that i have an electrical problem that made car go into that mode but i have no check engine light on so i am not sure what to do to figure this problem out can you reset it some how?

 

I am also having the same issue transmission is in limp mode. I have no check engine light on though. Though the car did have damage to it's front right passenger wheel, and currently the ABS light is on and the BRAKE light turns on a 10 seconds after the car is started and continues to just blink.

1999 jetta 2.0 auto, in limp mode with no MIL... Thread, please be revived.

Igor

 

Both of you need to see what the codes are that are causing your trans to go to limp mode. Write them down and then clear then and see if they or another code appears and go from there. Let me know what you find.

Brad

 

Sorry for grammar mistakes. I'm on my phone.

So I disconnected my battery for an attempt at clearing any codes in my computer and/or transmission computer. Didn't work, maybe I wasn't doing it right, bottom line nothing changed.

Went to my local oreaillys... Took their obd reader, and it found code P0715, shaft speed sensor (I think that's what it's called), I am assuming this is the one on the differential.

So first off, if you have no check engine light (CEL)/malfunction indicator light (MIL) and you are in limp mode, like everyone has said run a scan on your transmission computer.

I used the obd reader at the local car parts store and it gave me a code, and actually cleared the code, this was a plain old OBD scanner that they hand you over the counter. So it works for now but we'll see how long it lasts. If the speed sensor is faulty, it is likely to put the car back in to limp mode.

Any thoughts on the code and which sensor it actually belongs to?

Igor

 

code 715 refers to the G38 sensor. The failure could be in the wiring or the computer also though.

 

So, I will have to Lower the transmission to replace it?

Btw, how do you check the fluid level on these friken cars?

Also, anyone live in the seattle area who is will to help me out with a VAG-COM?

Igor

 

Also, anyone live in the seattle area who is will to help me out with a VAG-COM?

Igor

Look in the VAG-Com forum; there is a searchable 'VAGCom locator' sticky at the top. There you can find helpful folks in your area to scan your car, usually for nominal amounts of beer or pizza ...

 

No you do not have to lower it down to replace the G38, but you do for the G68.

Take a look at this page to see how to change the fluid.. How to check the fluid is in there also.


http://www.kansascitytdi.com/01M Filter change.htm

 

It's been a while since I last posted, but I finally ended up getting the sensor (g38) and replced it, but like the first post said, your parts guy at the local VW dealer will prob. get you the wrong part.

So for a recap, car was stuck in third gear which pretty much on any car with OB2 means it's in limp mode; car feels sluggish, slow and will not switch in to fourth gear, so if you're going 60MPH, you'll be at around 4k RPM. Your car should be able to switch through gears 1-3 manually, not if you put it in to "D."

So, scan your computer to see if there are any codes, if there are no codes showing then find someone or a shop that has a more advanced scan tool to scan the transmission computer, specifically. Once the codes are found, write them down, clear/erase them, then go about your normal driving, and wait and see if they or any new codes or if the old codes return, which means you will most likely go back in to limp mode, too.

If the codes don't come back, then thank God and move with life, "if it aint broke, don't fix it."

Nc_ron - who started this thread (very helpful btw, thank you), says that the g38 is referenced by P0717, process of elimination could only mean that the g22 is referenced by P0715. I would like to correct this nicely if I could:
I had the code P0715 and my speedo still worded, so P0715 could not reference the g22 sensor.
I replaced the g38 in my jetta and P0715 vanished and has not returned, I have driven over sixty (60) miles and have started and shut off my car many times. I am calling it a success.

If the codes return, it goes a little something like:

P0722 = g68, has a pigtail (around $70 Bellevue, WA VW)
P0715 = g38, no pigtail (around $95 Bellevue, WA VW)
P0717 = g22, no pigtail, but slightly larger than the g38 (Don't know how much, but from research, this sensor doesn't usually go bad, idk why)

I was told, on this thread, that if you "might" have a bad sensor, then you "might" just have bad wiring.
I would recommend replacing the sensor first before rewiring anything, unless of course you see visible damage or you know for a fact that your transmission is not functioning properly.

One thing is that, like nc_ron mentioned, the dealer might give you the wrong sensor. I gave them my VIN, (for those who are wondering why I gave a VIN, it's not just to have the year, make, model, but they can see what transmission was put on that car) and they still gave me the wrong sensor. I told them, "I need a g38, speed sensor" and they gave me the 68.
I have also heard that there are three (3) different types of g38's, so what I would do is if you are replacing the g38, take out your battery and battery platform, disconnect the g38, and and snap a photo of the connection, and use that to help you locate the right sensor with the right type of connection.

Even the g68 that they gave me first time was the incorrect g68. I unplugged the g68 (just for fun) to compare it to see if they gave me the right g68 and it would not fit, it had a different type of connection, so if I was in a position where the g68 would need replacing I would have been screwed.

Remove existing sensor, replace with new sensor, clear codes, and drive.

I would recommend that if you are in limp mode you stay away from the highway, and if you absolutely need to drive, drive city speed limits and switch through the gears (1-3) manually.
If you are in limp mode and are just cruising around as usual, you will very quickly wear out your third gear disc, and when you have the car functioning properly again, your transmission will have a rough time getting in to third gear smoothly.

Once I came to know what the issue with my car was, I borrowed my friends OBD scanner and kept it in the car, and just before I had to get out on the highway, I would pullover and clear the code, and proceed on to the highway and the car would basically switch at a default time, and it would go in to fourth (4th) gear usually for just that one trip, and once I would get to where I was going. I would park and once I was on my way again, the transmission would go back in to limp mode because the sensor was indeed bad.

Thanks for all the help and info from all those who posted. Looking back, I think I was a little too worried about the problem. Only thing is, if I had to replace the g68, would have been in the garage for much longer.

Again, thank you to all, fi the problem returns or a new code comes up I will report back immediately.

 

Limp Mode, P0722 OBD code, and Vehicle Speed Sensor - Advice of NC-Ron™ Verified

2002 Jetta Wagon with 2.0 engine and 01M transmission. 145,000 miles on odometer.

Transmission locked out of 4th gear. System throwing P0722, P0730, and P0740 OBD codes.

Repeatedly cleared codes and kept driving for a few days. Sometimes well below speed limit on freeway in 3rd gear at 4000 RPM. Sometimes 4th gear would be allowed if codes were cleared just right.

To my surprise transmission problems then stopped on their own for more than a week. But they did return as expected. G68 sensor hidden under left transmission mount was then replaced per advice of this forum. Problem appears to be solved. No codes thrown for a month now. Transmission shifts very smoothly. Seems better than before trouble started. Battery terminals and connections are polished now too.

A replacement stretch bolt set can be purchased at reasonable price from Marquette Automotive. Discard used stretch bolts when reinstalling transmission mount in favor of the new bolts.

http://www.metalmanparts.com/product.sc?productId=155&categoryId=68

The 01M transmission seems pretty good to me. A simple sensor going bad after ten years is no big deal.