[dazmann]

Hey all,

I am looking for a little help / advice for those of you who have installed lowering / sport springs on your own. I have read through the Tiguan Suspension Modification thread several times over, and while there are some great pieces of advice to take from the thread, I feel as though I need the step by step for Dummies version. I'm a big time noob to all this but mechanically inclined enough to know where to draw the line. Plus my wife is a pretty big hard-ass and any f ups will result in an end to my fun and any future plans for the Tig.

I attempted this over the weekend, albeit unsuccessfully, and would like to have another do at it. I started up front on the driver's side, using Youtube user George Daswani's 2x4 video, as my guide. He makes it look so easy - but my experience was anything but. Everything was going great until I attempted to release the strut from the knuckle. Despite using the Metalnerd spreader, the strut may have moved half an inch, at most... just enough for the tab to obstruct the bolt from being put back into place. I used the knuckle bolt to secure my 2x4 to the clear hole where the endlink attaches to the strut, and gingerly jacked it up to see if I would get any movement from the strut, at all. It was not budging - the lower control arm, et al was along for the ride.

From reading through the suspension thread, I have gathered that the 2x4 method is not as easy with the Tiguan. I would prefer to do it this way, if possible, as the idea of messing with the axle sounds a little daunting to me but ultimately, I'm willing to put in the work and research to do the job right and onthe first [second] time.

I understand that a step by step guide is a big ask but I will take whatever advice I can get to get that damn strut free. I am hoping this can be more of a Tiguan specific instructional thread vs. a discussion about what springs people are using, ride quality, etc.

Thanks in advance and regards

 

[2019TiguanSELPRLINE]

This is pretty good. I used it and it took me a few hours to do the entire vehicle.


https://youtu.be/5bywNV46TYs


Kurt

 

[2019TiguanSELPRLINE]

This one too. I like that he told about the trick of putting the socket wrench in the split to open it.

My advice also to get the front strutsnout of the knuckle spray them with wd 40 or better yet PB BLASTER. Let it sit. Then when you put them back in spray some on them so they slide in better. If you have the SEL premium with the HID headlights. Make sure you disconnect the leveler that’s in on the rear suspension on the left side of the vehicle. If you don’t you could break the arm. I included a pic of what it looks like. Also for me it helped to do the rear at same time and front at same time and have both wheels off ground at once. Good luck.

Kurt

 

[2019TiguanSELPRLINE]

Forgot to attach video. Lol here it is. It’s for a golf but it basically the same suspension as the Tiguan. All mqb are basically the same.


https://youtu.be/WhYAAUWm-6Y


Kurt

 

[snobrdrdan]

My guess is that you had the strut spreader bit inserted too far and therefore the little tab on the strut was hitting it & preventing the strut from coming out.
Next time, don't insert the spreader bit too deep & then the tab can clear it and the strut come up/out.

 

[joszer]

Better yet when you insert the spreader, once the strut moves up and gets stuck, remove the spreader and place it on the bottom of the knuckle to allow the rest of the strut to slide out. The tab on the strut will hit the spreader when sliding out and I found out that by removing it from the top to the bottom of the knuckle is the easiest way.

 

[dazmann]

My guess is that you had the strut spreader bit inserted too far and therefore the little tab on the strut was hitting it & preventing the strut from coming out.
Next time, don't insert the spreader bit too deep & then the tab can clear it and the strut come up/out.

I think you might be onto something... my thought process was to insert the spreader in, as far as it would allow. I was expecting more of a dramatic shift of the strut before relocating the spreader to the bottom of the tab, as joszer suggested. I will heed this advice and give it another go.

Thanks everyone, for the input, suggestions, & videos! It'll be another couple of weeks before I can have another go at this but I will update with pics in the event of a successful install.

 

[snobrdrdan]

I think you might be onto something... my thought process was to insert the spreader in, as far as it would allow. I was expecting more of a dramatic shift of the strut before relocating the spreader to the bottom of the tab, as joszer suggested. I will heed this advice and give it another go.

Thanks everyone, for the input, suggestions, & videos! It'll be another couple of weeks before I can have another go at this but I will update with pics in the event of a successful install.

:thumbup:

It's all good...we've all done it our first time too :laugh:
Now you know!

 

[dazmann]

Some success...

Hey all,

So I had another go at this the other day and successfully removed the front struts from the knuckle via the 2x4 method. I got the springs swapped and the struts properly mounted but I cannot, try as I might, get the struts to seat properly in the knuckle. Some guidance on how you all managed to do this would be much appreciated.

I have the front end up on jack stands. Is it advisable to lift the control arm with a jack and then try to seat the struts in the knuckle from there? Should I loosen the three 13mm bolts at the strut mount to allow more maneuverability out of the strut?

Any tips or tricks would be much appreciated. Again, this is my first attempt at any kind of suspension work and I am very new to this in general so don't worry about over explaining it... I will take any and all the help I can get at this point.

Thanks!!

 

[Stonyo]

Hi @dazmann ,

Can you provide feedback on your how your adaptive cruise control and lane assists functions after the lowering? I have a 2018 Dark Moss Green Metallic SEL P R-Line and am also looking to lower the car, maybe on H&R Springs.

In reaching out to indie shops in my area, the experienced ones said you need someone who knows what they are doing to not mess up the adaptive cruise control and driver assist programs.
Did you end up doing it yourself? Any issues? Did you know about the dangers of messing up those functions?

Also shops in my area are quoting me $600-$1,000 for lowering my car. Does not include alignment. Anyone have an idea on what should be realistic?

Thanks,

 

[Tr0p1c_6er]

This one too. I like that he told about the trick of putting the socket wrench in the split to open it.

My advice also to get the front strutsnout of the knuckle spray them with wd 40 or better yet PB BLASTER. Let it sit. Then when you put them back in spray some on them so they slide in better. If you have the SEL premium with the HID headlights. Make sure you disconnect the leveler that’s in on the rear suspension on the left side of the vehicle. If you don’t you could break the arm. I included a pic of what it looks like. Also for me it helped to do the rear at same time and front at same time and have both wheels off ground at once. Good luck.

Kurt

Can the leveler be reattached and used, or does it have to remain disconnected? I would hate to have self-leveling lights that didn't self-level.

 

[denimA4turbo]

Can the leveler be reattached and used, or does it have to remain disconnected? I would hate to have self-leveling lights that didn't self-level.

you reattach it after, it's only disconnected so that it doesn't overextend/break during install

 

[Tr0p1c_6er]

you reattach it after, it's only disconnected so that it doesn't overextend/break during install

And they still function properly afterwards?

 

[denimA4turbo]

And they still function properly afterwards?

yes, why do you suspect it wouldn't?

 

[Tr0p1c_6er]

yes, why do you suspect it wouldn't?

I was think due to the car being lower the load sensor would automatically be compressed some. Is the load sensor adjustable at all or is there a way to compensate for lowering? I don't currently have a Tiguan but am looking to possibly pick up an SEL R-Line

 

[VW...vw...wv...WV]

I was think due to the car being lower the load sensor would automatically be compressed some. Is the load sensor adjustable at all or is there a way to compensate for lowering? I don't currently have a Tiguan but am looking to possibly pick up an SEL R-Line

im on your side.
if the sensor sees a lowered height from lowering springs, (as if the rear of the car is fully loaded with cargo/people) it will aim the headlights down, to not blind oncoming drivers, it purpose.
i am planning on modifying the sensor arm so it puts the read out as close as in a no-load situation.

 

[denimA4turbo]

i am planning on modifying the sensor arm so it puts the read out as close as in a no-load situation.

this is silly, you're overcomplicating things. All you do after lowering is mechanically adjust the headlight aim and store the current setting as the new "home" position, and then things will work intended

 

[VW...vw...wv...WV]

this is silly, you're overcomplicating things. All you do after lowering is mechanically adjust the headlight aim and store the current setting as the new "home" position, and then things will work intended

altough what you say may sound kinda correct, i still think that it still may go wrong.
If you Lower your tiguan 2" and adjust your headlights manually to compensate, and then load your car with luggage, people or both, so the car lowers 2 more inches...
Does the sensor mechanic design allows for 4" + road ondulations of suspension travel?
In case it does (i think it does) do the headlight internals (adjustment motors) can compensate for the total lowering+the manual compensation you already did?
whats the limit for the sensor arm travel?
im thinking all this because i dont know the total range of both the sensor and the headlight auto adjusters.
mmm...

For me, personally, it would make way more sense to only modify the sensor arm, (think turnbuckle) or maybe relocate it a little, so all other systems that depend on its reading, can work as intended.

But i guess ill cross that bridge when i get there....
Does someone have a clearer picture of the sensor and its mounting location? From what ive seen it has a ball joint that pops, so maybe a 3dprinted part (to either extend or make another ball socket...?) could work very easily to set the correct ride height. Im guessing that part could be easily done for 1" lowering, 1.5" lowering, etc...

 

[GmanFL1]

altough what you say may sound kinda correct, i still think that it still may go wrong.
If you Lower your tiguan 2" and adjust your headlights manually to compensate, and then load your car with luggage, people or both, so the car lowers 2 more inches...
Does the sensor mechanic design allows for 4" + road ondulations of suspension travel?
In case it does (i think it does) do the headlight internals (adjustment motors) can compensate for the total lowering+the manual compensation you already did?
whats the limit for the sensor arm travel?
im thinking all this because i dont know the total range of both the sensor and the headlight auto adjusters.
mmm...

For me, personally, it would make way more sense to only modify the sensor arm, (think turnbuckle) or maybe relocate it a little, so all other systems that depend on its reading, can work as intended.

But i guess ill cross that bridge when i get there....
Does someone have a clearer picture of the sensor and its mounting location? From what ive seen it has a ball joint that pops, so maybe a 3dprinted part (to either extend or make another ball socket...?) could work very easily to set the correct ride height. Im guessing that part could be easily done for 1" lowering, 1.5" lowering, etc...

You don't want to manually/mechanically adjust the headlights. After the vehicle is lowered, you want to set the new level in the programing. I used my OBD11 and it took less than 5 minutes to set the headlight position and they work perfectly.

 

[rph2004]

You don't want to manually/mechanically adjust the headlights. After the vehicle is lowered, you want to set the new level in the programing. I used my OBD11 and it took less than 5 minutes to set the headlight position and they work perfectly.

This is the way.

Lowered my 18 Highline. Felt the lights were too low - Gapped out and tried to compensate by manually adjusting the height (counted turns to keep track). Had a moment of clarity - Manually set lights back to the height they were at prior to messing with them.
Used OBDeleven to run and acknowledge basic headlamp settings in Multifunction Module 4B.

Profit.

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