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Yellow 1981 4-Door Rabbit L FI Gasoline 1.7L
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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Hello, I was driving the other day when I heard some knocking coming from the front end of my car. It was very light knocking and it disappeared soon after so I ignored it. I was driving on a later day, when I suddenly reappeared but was louder. I checked under and all around the car, nothing seems to be rubbing. Since then, the sound has stayed consistent. It sounds like a woodpecker pecking a tree, but the speed changes. I can now feel it in my right foot any time I press the gas pedal and the clutch is fully engaged. It only starts knocking when I'm accelerating. It is not dependent on my steering.

From shaking things around to see if they're loose, I have determined it isn't coming from the engine and it doesn't seem to be the exhaust or any other part that could rub or knock.

I have researched some and a suggestion was that a CV joint was needing to be replaced. I checked my CV joints and neither of them have tears in their boot,s but the driver side CV shaft has some very slight play in the connection of the CV joint on the transmission side. I think it could possibly be this but it is very small play.

My only doubt in this idea is that the sound becomes much faster at higher revs rather than higher speeds. So maybe it could be an engine/transmission mount or hopefully not something in the transmission.

I was curious on any confirmation to my ideas or any other experience you may have that I could use. I plan on going out and looking more thoroughly once I am done with my homework. 馃槀 Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
If I'm correct, the flange to the transmission is the piece in-between the transmission and the CV joint? If so, it is the CV joint. It has very slight play.

Yes, the noise does disappear when I press the clutch in, or stop accelerating.

Now that I've asked this question, the noise has actually disappeared. I'm going to replace the clutch anyways soon because I can tell it doesn't grab the flywheel the same anymore.
 

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I'm going to replace the clutch anyways soon because I can tell it doesn't grab the flywheel the same anymore.
Have you tried checking your clutch cable tension? It should have a slight amount of play or wiggle in the cable. The cable needs to be loosened as the clutch disc wears or else it will prevent good contact with the flywheel.
 
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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Hello everyone, I'm sad to say I was T-Boned while driving the rabbit home the other day. Simply put, it was at a 4-way stop, I approached the stop sign and the lady who hit me approached hers. I stopped about two seconds ahead of her, she makes a complete stop, and so I go. Nothing odd or dangerous had happened. But, once I am in front of her, she suddenly accelerated hard.
She mainly destroyed the rear right door, but managed to hit the back end of the front right one and crunch the rear right fender. It still drives and rides fine but the rear right tire rubs the crunched fender.
Luckily I have full coverage on the Rabbit because she had no insurance. (Or license or registration -_-)
I wish I knew why this even happened because there was no reason for it to. I swear she had to have done this on purpose because she didn't even brake when she hit me either. She brakes after she hit me and I was hit hard enough that my aunt in the front right passenger seat obtained a massive bruise on her arm and my car was turned almost 120掳 right. Absolutely ridiculous.
Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Motor vehicle Vehicle
Automotive parking light Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle

I'm okay with if I had to get rid of the car but what hurts is that everything was so original. I don't have much money to get another one of these and I doubt my insurance is going to really give me top dollar for this or value the car high enough to fix it. I really need money and could part the car out but I'd rather die. You can't replicate the experience of finding stickers from 1981 written and German, the glass stamps matching, the fact that this car helped me through such a tough year, and just everything about it.
I hope that it will be fixed but I can't help but think it will likely not happen. I also know the prices of these repairs vary so I hope I'm lucky and can get this fixed.
Sorry for the rant, I hope you enjoyed.
 

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Well, crap鈥.

At least no one was seriously injured. The first pic doesn鈥檛 look bad: second pic shows the true impact. What part is rubbing the tire鈥 the plastic arch spat?

-Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
No, it's the metal part of the fender and maybe the inside of the wheel well. It rubs on left turns and when hitting a bump at any decent speed, which is all the time. Lol.
I haven't really looked all too hard at what part exactly but it's metal for sure. I've been working non-stop since it happened.
 

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Without a doubt, that car is totaled. Sorry to hear another Rabbit will be made into Harbor Freight tools.

On the bright side, you are ok but I totally understand the feeling you get when your car is smashed by someone that makes poor decisions.

Until we teach our kids that there are repercussions for bad decisions, this is only going to get worst. It seems like as a country, we teach our kids that it's someone else's fault for everything bad that happens. I hope you do not get sued because you were in her way.
 

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I have a four door yellow Rabbit with maroon interior that had a similar low speed smash to the front. So, it has all of the body sections that you would need or vice versa. Basically if you sawed both cars in half you could weld together an unsmashed yellow four door. (If only it were that easy)

I would donate those parts or the entire shell to you if there was some way for you to pick them up. I am in Northern California. Are you on the west coast?

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Until we teach our kids that there are repercussions for bad decisions, this is only going to get worst. It seems like as a country, we teach our kids that it's someone else's fault for everything bad that happens. I hope you do not get sued because you were in her way.
The police put her at fault and luckily I had my aunt as a witness. But yes, I hope nothing worsens the case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 · (Edited)
I have a four door yellow Rabbit with maroon interior that had a similar low speed smash to the front. So, it has all of the body sections that you would need or vice versa. Basically if you sawed both cars in half you could weld together an unsmashed yellow four door. (If only it were that easy)

I would donate those parts or the entire shell to you if there was some way for you to pick them up. I am in Northern California. Are you on the west coast?

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I am in a small town in the middle of Missouri. I technically could pick it up but my mother would have to drive since I am not old enough to rent a trailer or vehicle. She isn't willing to go farther than 180 miles if she were to drive even. I appreciate your offer so much though. That's really nice.

Edit: I was thinking, maybe I could have a friend come and pick it up or whatever parts we may agree on. I'm still waiting to see what my insurance decides to do but I may bug you about it if I can set something up and you're all good with it. :)
 

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Totaled it not, you鈥檒l have the ability to get the car back. As long as the unibody isn鈥檛 tweaked, you could hammer the metal out of the wheel well, and get the car back on the road.

Not sure if you鈥檒l want to drive the car looking how it does. That鈥檚 your decision. It still could be a good parts car or winter beater.

-Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Hello, I am finally getting my car evaluated by my insurance company.
I would not be surprised by any means if they don't help me fix it and I don't have the money to either. I could still keep driving it but, honestly, maybe a different Volkswagen could be fun too. I will keep the Rabbit for a while I think, no rush. But, I was curious what you ask would recommend if I wanted to get another vehicle but I don't have the funds for it. Would anyone want to buy it as a whole and for what price would you think it would it be better to part it out?
 

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My first bit of advice is, don鈥檛 take their first offer. Insurance companies are businesses, and report P&Ls to a board of directors, shareholders, etc. The adjuster鈥檚 job is to keep claims payments to a minimum鈥 nobody like to hear about losses, only profits.

The fact the other driver was uninsured, will make things a bit more difficult. I鈥檝e never run into this, but I鈥檝e heard you may need to place a claim against your insurance company, which sounds crazy.

Your insurance company will likely not help you fix it. They want to pay you as little as possible, then move to the next claim. Start rounding up comparable sales or at least recent listings of similar cars, in similar state to help achieve a better value. Book value will be low鈥 you need to bring that value up. Hopefully, you either have receipts or can document what you鈥檝e done, and factory sweat equity.

As for parting the car, it鈥檒l definitely bring more money in parts, rather than whole, but it can be a full time job. Be prepared to have the majority of people who reach out, to be tire kickers. Plenty of time will be wasted on providing better pics, answering a bunch of questions, getting and shipping quotes. Local sales will waste your time, waiting for people who never show up.

Ask yourself how your neighbors will react, if a wrecked car is being slowly dismantled, in their neighborhood. Not sure if you have indoor storage, or how your setup is.

-Todd
 

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Proving what you have and having the receipts did little for me in all my cases. I do not buy a lot of cars and I have only sold 1. The rest got totaled.

If you have under insured motorist, my understanding is that the insurance company will go after the other party to get their money back. Not certain how well that works out. If I was running the company, I would not let it go until I did. I have an issue with people that do not accept responsibility. Driving is not a right and too many people could care less if they have insurance or not.

In my state, it they total it, you have to show proof it's fixed before it's on the road again. Not certain how that would work in your case. They would take the original license plate and you could not get a new one until it's fixed.

I can only assure you, your car on paper is worth less than you think. Good luck proving it's more.
 

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I have a good track record fighting the insurance companies. My last two claims involved lengthy battles over vehicle value and salvage title status. In both cases I got more money than initially offered and I do not have a salvage title.


The advantage in any negotiation lies with the party that has time on their hands. Don't accept their offers, waste their time, threaten politely if you have to. Good luck.

I would insist to the insurance company that your car was worth $6000. That was what the other yellow four door (above post) was valued at by insurance. Use BaT GTI sales as comparables. If the sport model is worth $40K and has the same engine and body minus two doors...
 
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Adding two more doors to any car usually lowers the value by a lot. It's a supply and demand thing. Nobody wants a 4 door therefore the price drops by a lot. GTI's were hot when they came out and since they were dropped after only a 2 year run [in the USA] there are less of them. Most were totaled so there are less of them.

If you could get $6k. I would take it. I've always took back my car. I've never paid for my car too. The parts on my car are worth more than the car itself.
 
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