[Fearless Vampire Killer]

Absolutely! I wouldn't expect any automotive fluid in a car to last more than 100K miles or even 10-years of sitting still. If it is not collecting contaminants, it is drying up and clotting.

Here's my approach:
If I had hydraulic steering, I would do a drain and fill 60-80K miles.
I test coolant every oil change. I check coolant color, temp rating, alkalinity, and electrolysis. If it's good, I leave it with a mandatory change at 80K miles.
Auto/Manual trans fluid and filter every 50K miles. (40K for DSG)
Engine oil every 6K miles, full synthetic, approved oils only.
Brake fluid every 2-years or 20K miles.

If you stay on top of these critical tasks, any problems you have should be minor or from normal wear and tear, like tires, brakes, hoses, etc. You could make it well past 300K miles.
[/QUOT

Absolutely! I wouldn't expect any automotive fluid in a car to last more than 100K miles or even 10-years of sitting still. If it is not collecting contaminants, it is drying up and clotting.

Here's my approach:
If I had hydraulic steering, I would do a drain and fill 60-80K miles.
I test coolant every oil change. I check coolant color, temp rating, alkalinity, and electrolysis. If it's good, I leave it with a mandatory change at 80K miles.
Auto/Manual trans fluid and filter every 50K miles. (40K for DSG)
Engine oil every 6K miles, full synthetic, approved oils only.
Brake fluid every 2-years or 20K miles.

If you stay on top of these critical tasks, any problems you have should be minor or from normal wear and tear, like tires, brakes, hoses, etc. You could make it well past 300K miles.

I am having the hardest time finding info on drain and fill on the hydraulic PS fluid.

 

[Boomer Guy]

I'm overkill:
motor oil at 5K miles with filter - full synthetic, proper viscosity and spec (for the VW: Euro)
coolant at 30K - complete flush by professional with flushing machine (no air induction or mixing with old coolant) - proper spec (for the VW: Euro in proper year due to changing formulas)
hydraulic fluids at 30K with complete flush
ATF at 30K - drain & refill, not complete flush, filter if the fluid looks or feels bad

My car has over 152K miles on it, never burns oil, never overheats, no leaks.

 

[cylinder head o7k]

well past 300k miles lets not get carried away here op is talking in kilometers.

 

[2.5ophisticated]

Absolutely! I wouldn't expect any automotive fluid in a car to last more than 100K miles or even 10-years of sitting still. If it is not collecting contaminants, it is drying up and clotting.

Here's my approach:
If I had hydraulic steering, I would do a drain and fill 60-80K miles.
I test coolant every oil change. I check coolant color, temp rating, alkalinity, and electrolysis. If it's good, I leave it with a mandatory change at 80K miles.
Auto/Manual trans fluid and filter every 50K miles. (40K for DSG)
Engine oil every 6K miles, full synthetic, approved oils only.
Brake fluid every 2-years or 20K miles.

If you stay on top of these critical tasks, any problems you have should be minor or from normal wear and tear, like tires, brakes, hoses, etc. You could make it well past 300K miles.

Thank you this is the kind of answer I was looking for.

Right. NGK plugs already have proprietary anti-seize on them when new. If you remove them and then replace them, you may want to add a tiny bit of anti-seize.

I've known many people who have had trouble with Bosch plugs and I've read about those who have had problems with Bosch coils. I've been using NGK plugs in my cars, trucks, motorcycles, outdoor power equipment and they have never given me a problem. The iridium plugs last twice as long as copper plugs.

I've used NGK coils and coil packs in my Japanese and American cars and trucks with no problems.

just to clarify spark plugs need to be changed every 40k miles and coil packs every 100k miles? I got the NGK plugs in right now but did them last on 6/16/20 but I forgot to take note of the mileage.. hope I’m not overdue

 

[Boomer Guy]

Thank you this is the kind of answer I was looking for.

just to clarify spark plugs need to be changed every 40k miles and coil packs every 100k miles? I got the NGK plugs in right now but did them last on 6/16/20 but I forgot to take note of the mileage.. hope I’m not overdue

NGK spark plugs will last according to the type. The iridium plugs are the best and can easily go 120K miles. Since the NGK coils are good for at least 100K miles, I would change both, coils and plugs, at that time. Besides, you will probably have a leaking valve cover gasket and possibly PCV valve by that time. So, every 100K miles, change all of these. Be sure you get the OEM valve cover which includes the gasket, bolts and integrated PCV valve. This is not a hard job to do and there are several YouTube videos out there for the DIY guy. That's how I did it.
And don't forget the torque wrench! When tightening the valve cover, follow the correct pattern so you don't warp it and the gasket.

 

[cylinder head o7k]

dude for real forget going the full distance on wearable parts like plugs and coils. just check them once a year and if YOU dont like how they look get new ones. this is about driving your vehicle for 300k kilometers and beyond not stretching your pennies. your nuts to leave a spark plug in for 120k and more than 5k on motor oil why? every parts manufacturer and dealership has a vested interest in parts failure on your vehicle and using any part to the entire life of it is really putting alot of trust in the mass production process that has tolerances on every part.

 

[Boomer Guy]

Maybe the plugs and coils don't hold up as well in VW's. I've been doing the 120K mile spark plug change and even longer on my coils in all of my Honda cars for the last 30 years. NGK has NEVER let me down in any of their products. I use them in my American and Japanese cars, trucks, motorcycles, lawn mowers, leaf blowers, weed heaters, and chain saws.

On the other hand, I've had many professional mechanics tell me that Bosch spark plugs and coils are the worst ones on the market. When any of their customers complain about the engine problems involving spark, the first thing they do is look at the brand and life of the plugs.

 

[2.5ophisticated]

What do you guys think of the engine/transmission tunes for the 2.5 offered by IE Integrated Engineering? Do you think these tunes/hardware will shorten the life of the engine? Have been considering these tunes for awhile but not sure if I should go for it. I want the engine to last but I heard from a local shop that he wouldn’t let IE touch it and that those tunes have caused a lot of issues for people so he recommended GIAC (which I’ve never heard of). IE seems to have good reviews on these tunes though and I’ve never heard of anyone having issues so I’m confused.. anyone with experience or wisdom on this matter?

 

[cylinder head o7k]

ive no issues yet only had this for half the year though

 

[Boomer Guy]

I haven't used the IE tuning products but I have the IE vacuum pump delete blocking plate with no problems at all. I sourced the vacuum from the N80 evap emissions hose and it works great. But that's a different story.
I can say that IE contacted me after I installed this to see how I liked it, so they seem to like the customer's feedback.

 

[WtErKeWlEdUbbEr]

Thank you this is the kind of answer I was looking for.

just to clarify spark plugs need to be changed every 40k miles and coil packs every 100k miles? I got the NGK plugs in right now but did them last on 6/16/20 but I forgot to take note of the mileage.. hope I’m not overdue

Which NGK plugs? And what is your motor code? Might have the wrong plugs.


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[Boomer Guy]

Which NGK plugs? And what is your motor code? Might have the wrong plugs.


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I agree. Always look for the simplest solution and "work your way upstream". Don't ASSUME anything. Your spark plugs may be the cause of a problem and maybe not.

The NGK website will list all grades of their plugs for your specific engine, no matter what kind of vehicle it is in. Your specific engine may take several types of NGK plugs. I usually run iridium plugs but in some cases, I have gone with basic copper (Miata NB2 which had "wasted spark" and older Honda Shadow's which also had "wasted spark") and platinum (certain Honda cars) and different COP's or Coil Packs, due to research online with forums and other reviews. One size does NOT fit all. Like I said above, I love NGK but I am very careful about which plugs and coils I use.

Way back in the day when Champion plugs were OEM for my Harley-Davison motorcycle, British cars and Japanese cars, I always had problems and had to experiment with "hot" and "cold" plugs within the brand. I'm glad those days are gone. So, I will always stick with NGK plugs of some type and in most cases, NGK coils.

This isn't much help, but again, don't ASSUME. Check the code, check online with NGK and check with forums, like you're doing here.