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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello my good sirs..
I built a glowplug relay setup a la Vince Style, and it works superbly as it should. However I want to intergrade the stock wiring in to what i have got. I want the stock relay and wiring to trigger the relay and sense the coolant temp so it will be left on for however many seconds it needs. I would also like to leave in the manual switch i have on the dash, so that i can trigger the relay for afterglow 30-45 seconds after the car has started.
The Ford Starter relay;

I have the relay grounded to the body, one large gauge wire from the starter post, and the other to distribution block for the gp's. The relay is triggered by a low amperage 18-20awg wire from a switch on the dash to the "S" terminal of the relay. Will the relay work the same way if I were to hook the relay trigger wire up to the "I" terminal?
What I want to do is just take the wire that originally powered the buss bar, and connect it to either the "S" or the "I" of the starter relay. that way the stock system could power the relay or my manual switch could power it depending on the conditions.. Will having the two power sources on the same pole feed power back through the other and cause problems? Will running the manual switch on the "S" terminal and the stock wiring on the "I" terminal work?
ALSO SOME GOOD NEWS, dug the car out of the snowbank it was burried in and it started right up without hesitation... and without the cold start (I have the pump timed to 1.02mm). It was roughly -15 to -20 outside, and 30 seconds of afterglow on the Duraterms reduced smoke after only the first 10 seconds of running.. after that smoke was not visible. Also I did not have to prime the pump with the primer ball in the engine bay.. pump doesn't loose prime.. a very good sign. I have high hopes for this little 900k km engine

What do you guys all think?
 

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Re: Manual glowplug inquiries :) (8v-of-fury)

Wow, I need to retime my pump. I have issues when it gets into the 20s, here in NJ. Start, stall, repeat, etc....
Just got done with Vince's GP rewire method, although mine adds a few more status leds, different Ford solenoid and a custom fuseholder.
Not sure what the "I" terminal is, but if you hook the stock relay output (87) to the trigger on the Ford solenoid, that will take care of your 1st question.
If you hook the output side of your added switch to the same "S" terminal, that would be your manual afterglow with no backfeeding. The factory relay would be open, by now.
On another note, I added the timed pulse relays I mentioned a few weeks back. One is added as a preheat and one as an afterglow. The preheat is triggered by a negative pulse from a remote start system, usually used for trunk release. The afterglow is triggered by a positive trigger from the starter.
I timed them in my house, hooked to a regulated power supply and saw 1 minute maximum. In the car, it seems like more, but need to verify the #s.
I just put the car back on the road, but need to get a tach signal or else the afterglow relay is worthless.... I wired the starter tachless and the added GP amperage draw shuts the car down once started.
-Todd
 

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Re: Manual glowplug inquiries :) (8v-of-fury)

I have a somewhat similar setup using a Ford relay that operates all four glow plugs with one wire and is operated by the original GP relay. I have not had a GP relay contact weld closed for at least 4 years now.
A nice feature of the Ford relay in any setup is that you can hear it pick up and drop out so you know that the system is working properly assuming that the GP current control by the Ford starter relay is a small job for that relay.
Being able to hear the Ford relay pick up and drop out and relating that to GP current being on or off, I have not noted any difference in how the freshly started engine runs when the GP current ends and am wondering why you want to work to extend the GP current ON time.
 

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Re: Manual glowplug inquiries :) (Tinker Toy)

Keeping the prechambers hot will accelerate the warm up time, lessen smoke/emissions and make the car run more smoothly when cold.
A3 diesels have an afterglow effect that will last up to 5 minutes.
-Todd
 

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You could use a resistor and capacitor on the trigger wire to the ford relay to extend the time it stays on after the OEM signal drops out. Getting even more fancy you could use a thermistor instead of resistor so that the after-glow time would be dependent on temperature.
 

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Re: Manual glowplug inquiries :) (Tinker Toy)

Quote, originally posted by Tinker Toy »
I am wondering why you want to work to extend the GP current ON time?

As ToddA1 said keeping the glowplugs on for 20-50 seconds (Afterglow, as seen on 1.9 AAZ engines) after the vehicle has started on very very cold mornings, it will allow the pre-cups to remain red hot and ignite the fuel cleaner and more efficiently. Instead of allowing compression alone to heat up the cylinders, the glowplugs remain redhot for up to 5 minutes (in AAZ engines) aiding in the heat up of the cylinders and fuel entering the cylinders.
The only reason I want to incorporate the old system back in to it would be mainly for the 2-6 second quick heat on returning to a warm engine, instead of reaching over for the manual glow switch you know? That idea sounds amazing of how to make a system to do an afterglow by itself, but it is totally not needed for me. lol Anyone who will be driving this car will have me in the passenger seat.. or be a well educated person

I think that hooking the old power lead to the "I" terminal on the ford starter solenoid should work out quite fine, because they are on two seperate circuits are they not? If not I will by one of those that Vince suggested, and put it on the stock system... as it is always going to be momentarily powered when you turn the key passed the acc stage right?
See how it all works out! Thanks a lot gys
 
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