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My brakes warped after the tsb too. Happened at 1000 miles with no heavy usage and proper bedding. The dealer and AoA refused to replace. They said I was using the brakes too hard. (RollING eyes)
Go to a different dealer. They replaced mine due to the warpage of the "new" rotors.

My dealer knew about the issue and even told me that they measured the run-out on my rotors and they were out of spec, THEN they checked a brand new set of rotor set they had in stock as part of the "new" rotors and it was out of spec as well, so they had to order another set and it was in spec. Got car back the other day.
 

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That's crap! They have a problem with this setup and know it.
I agree. This dealer was sh1t and the worst I ever dealt with. There were more details that I will leave out. Truly a bad experience when coming off a local VW dealer that has been very good to me for my 7 VWs in the last 6 years.

I really don't feel they did at the time I went thru the tsb last year. But yes, they do have a problem.

Go to a different dealer. They replaced mine due to the warpage of the "new" rotors.

My dealer knew about the issue and even told me that they measured the run-out on my rotors and they were out of spec, THEN they checked a brand new set of rotor set they had in stock as part of the "new" rotors and it was out of spec as well, so they had to order another set and it was in spec. Got car back the other day.
Audi of Richmond, VA. Worst ever. No technical ability and tried to charge me for everything and they voided my warranty over a purge valve they didn't even connect. I saved my old F&R roters with the deposits after I replaced with new audi front and rear and Hawk track pads, Motul 600 and steel lines. They have been solid ever since. No deposits at all and wet pads don't stick.

-steel
 

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I agree. This dealer was sh1t and the worst I ever dealt with. There were more details that I will leave out. Truly a bad experience when coming off a local VW dealer that has been very good to me for my 7 VWs in the last 6 years.

I really don't feel they did at the time I went thru the tsb last year. But yes, they do have a problem.



Audi of Richmond, VA. Worst ever. No technical ability and tried to charge me for everything and they voided my warranty over a purge valve they didn't even connect. I saved my old F&R roters with the deposits after I replaced with new audi front and rear and Hawk track pads, Motul 600 and steel lines. They have been solid ever since. No deposits at all and wet pads don't stick.

-steel
Sorry if I missed this detail in an earlier post... which Hawk pads did you go with? Also, are they available for both the front and rear?

The new Hawk "5.0" pads look like an ideal product for the TT-RS for street and some autocross/light track usage. If they could be swapped with the Hawk HP Plus pads without having to go through a full rebedding process, that would make for a good combination for heavier trackday usage.
 

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Sorry if I missed this detail in an earlier post... which Hawk pads did you go with? Also, are they available for both the front and rear?

The new Hawk "5.0" pads look like an ideal product for the TT-RS for street and some autocross/light track usage. If they could be swapped with the Hawk HP Plus pads without having to go through a full rebedding process, that would make for a good combination for heavier trackday usage.
Hawk HP+ Available for front and rear. They squeal when coming to a stop. They are not for everyone's daily driver If they don't like the squeal. The last set I had quit squealing after a track day. My 2nd gear synchro took a sh1t here recently so I haven't had time to make it out yet in the RS.

The Hawk pads have their own bedding procedure and coming with instructions how to do it.
 

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Thank the geeks in the UK complaining about noise rather than warping for the ****ty recall.

Anyway the stock discs dont like aggressive compounds and will warp more quickly.

Most people who dont care about noise fit the 8 pots and 362mm ap discs.
 

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To be fair the German magzines complained to Audi about the poor performance of the brakes on track, when the TTRS first was released.
 

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Hawk HP+ Available for front and rear. They squeal when coming to a stop. They are not for everyone's daily driver If they don't like the squeal. The last set I had quit squealing after a track day. My 2nd gear synchro took a sh1t here recently so I haven't had time to make it out yet in the RS.

The Hawk pads have their own bedding procedure and coming with instructions how to do it.

Sounds like Hawk HPS would be the street friendly option, if brake squeal is a concern. I use that compound on my 97 Miata and they are basically silent.
 

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I have my TTRS since 2 years now,

here is the list of brakes i've burn:

- Stock OEM rotors with Pagid blue (RS4.2): strongly warped immediatly
- Stock OEM rotors with PFC08: strongly warped immediatly
- Tarox rotors with pagid (RS4.2): strongly warped immediatly
- Loba 8 pot kit with AP drilled rotors with PFC08: slightly warp after first track dray (installed two day before).
- Loba 8 pot kit with AP groove rotors with PFC08: slightly warp when slow from 100kph to 70kph !!!!

The problem is not the brake for me, i think there is a major issue with the hub, the bearing or something else move under braking and when disk is hot, it warped immediatly.
 

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Is anyone not warping rotors? I've boiled fluid and melted the stock pads that left some heavy smearing, but it didn't warp the rotor even though it caused heavy vibration until it was worn off.

I'm on new rotors now after the recall with PFC08 on the front and XR3 on the rear and it has been fantastic with the stock rotors. I'm not sure there are any after market rotors that are going to help, if you are warping them it is going to come down to cooling and driving style. The stock rotors aren't all that bad, changing metallurgy/design isn't going to be night and day, the only way to go is bigger unless you solve the cooling issue.

The real question should be how to get some functioning brake ducts.
 

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f you are warping them it is going to come down to cooling and driving style.
How can you tell that when i said i've warped my rotors on a slight deceleration... on road.. and i'm not the only one!!

I have test the Audi air duct, and i have now the GT3's modified. What is your driving style? Highway without braking?
 

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Thank the geeks in the UK complaining about noise rather than warping for the ****ty recall.

Anyway the stock discs dont like aggressive compounds and will warp more quickly.

Most people who dont care about noise fit the 8 pots and 362mm ap discs.
The noise on this kit is due to AP disk provided in the kit, it's D54 surface disk. The RS4 most pads have D57 surface so the AP disk must be D61, if not, the side of the pad is out of the disk edge and it squeal.
 

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How can you tell that when i said i've warped my rotors on a slight deceleration... on road.. and i'm not the only one!!

I have test the Audi air duct, and i have now the GT3's modified. What is your driving style? Highway without braking?
Wasn't directing my comment at anyone in particular, what you described sounds like you are correct in assuming it is a defect. A quick check would be using temperature paint on the rotor to know if it is heat related or something else.

My car sees mostly autox, time attack, and lapping with not many street miles.
 

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How can you tell that when i said i've warped my rotors on a slight deceleration... on road.. and i'm not the only one!!

I have test the Audi air duct, and i have now the GT3's modified. What is your driving style? Highway without braking?

Sylvain, what is this modified GT3 brake duct kit you mention? Is this a one-off design or something you purchased? Any more info and pics would be appreciated.
 

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I'm curious how you mounted these too. I have a set of the GT3 ducts but when I mounted them on the front control arm they seemed like they'd be scooping air in the wrong direction. The TT control arms are angled differently than a 911s.

FWIW I've done 3 track days with OEM rotors and Pagid blues and they've held up great. No signs of warping and I use them track and DD.
 

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I'm curious how you mounted these too. I have a set of the GT3 ducts but when I mounted them on the front control arm they seemed like they'd be scooping air in the wrong direction. The TT control arms are angled differently than a 911s.

FWIW I've done 3 track days with OEM rotors and Pagid blues and they've held up great. No signs of warping and I use them track and DD.
The TT air duct take fresh air above the front arm, the GT3's one bellow, much close to ground, where the air is!
You have to cut it to avoid runs on the wheel inside edge.

For your track days with pagid blue, do you have a video? I'm curious about braking point and the speed you reach when drag the brakes.

Here is a low to medium brake speed track day with pagid blue and Tarox rotors:
 

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Apparently the Germans have been running into similar issues with their brakes. I just learned that Raeder Motorsport has a larger brake duct kit for the TTRS. The paddles look substantually larger than OEM.




 

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Apparently the Germans have been running into similar issues with their brakes. I just learned that Raeder Motorsport has a larger brake duct kit for the TTRS. The paddles look substantually larger than OEM.
That's very interesting. Almost looks like the Porsche scoop there but using a bracket to get the correct orientation. See how far that brace goes out? If you mount the GT3 scoop directly to the mk2 arm the air gets picked up (towards the inside of the pic) behind the wheel centerline.

Might have to make another HD run this weekend :)



For your track days with pagid blue, do you have a video? I'm curious about braking point and the speed you reach when drag the brakes.

Here's a lap from last time out. Braking on the front straight from 120 down to 50 and at the back straight from 120 to ~70.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1nnSjlp4vrc&list=UUtlsz8xyUtUetE33iL2prPQ
 
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