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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
ECS Flush Spacer Kit for 18" OEM Wheels

05/21/2016:

I found that the offset on our Golf R's are pretty bad so I ordered the ECS Flush Spacer Kit for the 18" OEM wheels. This kit consists of a pair of front 15mm spacers and rear 20mm spacers along with the appropriately sized lug bolts.

Here is a pic as I tried to show the difference.

 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
OEM Euro LED Tail Lights (Dark Cherry)

06/11/2016:

I installed OEM Euro LED Tail Lights that I got from BEC Auto which included their adapter harness. Not a bad install but it did take me a few hours as I was taking my time. The coding is a bit long but after all is done it's a satisfying DIY! Love these tail lights and feel like they give our cars a premium look. I've even gotten a few compliments from what I consider to be non-car people on them.

Coding I used:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1XdezEIDM84JbJzXtN-JEun9vP4f0uFM2vpHtYQmqam4/pubhtml

Thread with lots of info:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...P-Harness-for-Independent-Inner-Light-Control

Here are a few pics I took of them:







 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
VCDS Coding: Instrument Cluster Lighting & Comfort Blinking

06/11/2016:

Instrument Cluster Lighting:

While your headlight switch is on 'Auto' the cluster will stay fully illuminated until your headlights come on and then the cluster will follow whatever dimmer position you have then set. The only thing that still bothers me though is the radio will still dim at times when I don't think it should. For me it's common before sunset or when it's overcast/cloudy.
  • Open controller [17-Instruments]
  • [Security Access-16] > Enter 25327
  • [Adaptation-10] > Change (1)-Illumination_algorithm-Scale_switching_algorithm from parking_light to lds"
06/12/2016:

Comfort Blinking:

For this I was changing the comfort blinking from 3 to 5 blinks.
  • Adaptation channels in the central electronics module
  • (2) - Turn Signal Controls-Komfortblinken Blinkzykien. Default is 3, add can be set as high as 5 flashes.
  • After this, go into Car Menu >setup>factory settings>Lights. Reset the light setting to factory and then it will work
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
OEM S3 Resonator Delete Installed

07/22/2016:

Like most people I thought the stock exhaust was just too quiet. Especially after disabling the Soundaktor. I thought the first step for a bit more noise is to buy the OEM S3 Resonator Delete since I didn't want (for now) to spend the money on a full exhaust. Anyway, the install is pretty straight forward. I bought an exhaust cutter from Amazon and installed the resonator delete myself. At first I didn't notice much but over time (especially since my car only had 4k miles) the exhaust note got deeper and has a nice sound to it. I still want to get a full turbo back exhaust (most like AWE resonated DP w/Swithpath Exhaust) but for now this will hold me over.

Here is a pic and a few videos:




The video below was taken in August of 2017 with a GoPro Hero4 and an Olympus ME-51S external mic. Not the best for sound, I'm still working on trying to get better sounding videos...it's a work in progress.

 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
OEM Power Folding Mirrors

07/24/2016:

Another one of the options we don't get in the US is power folding mirrors and living in NYC there is definitely a benefit to having these...plus it's just a cool thing to see! The DIY was easier than I thought, I don't like taking apart door panels but it wasn't so bad on this car. I got these from Ali Express at around $240 shipped.

Here are a few pics and a video:





 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Nice build!

Did you close the exhaust flaps after the resonator delete, or feel the need to with any possible drone?
Thanks!

At first I left the exhaust flaps coded open with the resonator delete and thought it sounded good. For me, it sounded like I had an aftermarket exhaust compared to stock and it didn’t drone. Better yet, let’s just say the drone didn’t bother me.

Later on I met up with someone that wanted to hear how the resonator delete sounded. They asked if I can code the valves back to stock so they can hear the difference. Since then I’ve left the exhaust valves coded as stock. I guess I like how the stock valves operate but didn’t mind them coded open either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
ECS Street Shield Skid Plate Installed

08/13/2016:

Being that our oil pans are plastic and I plan on lowering my car I wanted some protection. While there are steel oil pan options, I didn't want anything to do with replacing the OEM oil pan...at least for now. I thought that the ECS Street Shield would be a good alternative. Of course when installing I realized that the mounting points towards the front of the car leave something to be desired. I think the OEM Steel Plate option would be better but I believe that's a much more costly investment so for now this will do.

Here's a pic of the street shield vs the plastic piece it placed and also installed on the car.



 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Glove Box & Trunk LED Lighting from deAutoKey

08/15/2016:

It's nice that most of the lights on this car came with LED's but I wonder why the glove box and trunk lights weren't LED? Anyway, whenever I shop for LED's I go to deAutoKey. I had their interior LED kit for my MKIV Jetta and I thought it was great. Not much to tell in this pics but I tried to do a before and after of both the glove box and trunk.

Here are some pics:



Glove Box Before:


Glove Box After:


Trunk Before:


Trunk After
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
vw671 Front License Plate Mount

11/12/2016:

I didn't like the location of the OEM license plate mount that comes with the car. I feel with the license plate mounted to the front bumper it takes way from the nice bumper lines. Of course that's just my opinion and some can't stand the license plate being off center which I can understand as well. What I like about this mount vs the toe hook version is that from the side you almost don't notice there is a license plate at all. I got this mount from vortex member vw671, so reach out to him if you are interested. I think it's a great piece though I wish there was a quick release for this. Here are a few pics:



 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Emmanuele Design Lowering Springs & ECS Heavy Duty Strut Mounts Install

11/18/2016:

Like many of you I feel that this car needs to be lowered a little bit. Luckily we only need about 1" because in my MKIV days that gap was huge. I first had VWR on my list but when Emmanuele Designs came out with their lowering springs it seemed that people were happy with the drop and comfort. I had a chance to buy these on sale so I pulled the trigger. In addition I also installed the ECS Heavy Duty Strut Mounts.

Impressions of the springs once installed is that the car is about 15% stiffer but does not feel too stiff. I like how it feels compared to my past experience with lowering springs and coilovers. Not I do wish I could go just a tad lower in the front...so later down the line I may spring (ha, spring!) for some coilovers in the future but for now these are fine.

Now the ECS Heavy Duty Struts, these are supposed to be more durable than stock and not make any noise. Well these things are noisy, but only in the cold. Seems like temps above 60 degrees and there is no squeaking but when it's cold...it's noisy. I'll leave them on for now to see if they break in.

I did the install and used what other's refer to as the 2x4 method. I believe I cut down my 2x4 to about 22". YMMV depending on your jack but for me this worked using one of those aluminum Harbor Freight Jacks. I also drilled a hole in the 2x4 to secure it where the sway bar connects to the strut.

Here are some pics.









 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Helix Soundbox Installed

12/18/2016:

When I shopping for my R I really wanted to get the Fender Audio option as I didn't want to mess with upgrading the audio system, but I ended up with the Base R and the audio is...well it's an okay system but I needed a little more. I saw that they Helix Soundbox was available for $600 which seems like a nice upgrade. It comes with a 5 channel amp/Dsp and two small 6" speakers in a spare tire looking like enclosure but the problem is that it takes place of the spare tire. The system plugs inline with your existing hardness from the brain in the glovebox so install is pretty easy for the most part.

I looked into custom options. I thought a custom fiberglass 10" or so sub in the corner of the hatch would be nice but I learned that could run around $500 plus a speaker, amp and LOC. For the MK4 - MK6 it seems that there are already some prefab options that are around $300, but I didn't find any for the MK7 at the time.

Towards the end of 2016 I saw that the price of the Helix Soundbox went down to around $260 shipped and I decided to pull the trigger.

Let me say that at first I didn't think the Helix Soundbox sounded that great. It was an improvement but I felt it was lacking something between the volume of the bass and the mids/highs. That changed once I programmed the DSP with the dongle as the bass increased and the mids/highs sounded perfectly in line. I can't believe how well the stock speakers sound now and the bass from the pair of 6" speakers in the soundbox is impressive. The programming dongle, which is not included with the Helix Soundbox, is supposed to be available from the dealer for them to program the DSP. On the product description it states that the default setting for the Helix Soundbox is for the MK7 Golf/GTI/R, but that is NOT TRUE as the dongle is still needed to activate the DSP. Once I got a hold of the dongle (I bought it off another member) the system sounded great! I highly recommend the Helix Soundbox even at the $600 price point.

Of course I spend a good bit of money on the spare tire DIY so for now I have to tie down my spare tire in the trunk.

Here are the part numbers for the soundbox and dongle:

Helix Soundbox: 000051419

Programming Dongle: DKS051419A

Here are 2 links that I used for the installation that was done by forum member KsR_808:



Here are some pics of the system:













 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
Lower Engine Cover

01/04/2017:

Nothing to exciting here. I installed the lower engine cover which I got from e-Acca for about $40 which is much cheaper than I've seen available from within the US. Shipping took a few weeks but I wasn't in a hurry.

You also have to order the mounting point for this cover. Be careful installing the mount as mine dropped and when I tried to screw it on by hand...you need a socket for this. Can't remember the size but you can figure it out when you do the install. Here are the part numbers for the lower engine cover and mount.

Lower Engine Cover: 06K103925AA

Mount: 06E103164

Here is a pic installed:

 

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06/11/2016:

Instrument Cluster Lighting:

This VCDS coding prevents the instrument cluster from dimming and stays the same brightness all the time. At least that's the best way I can explain it.
  • Open controller [17-Instruments]
  • [Security Access-16] > Enter 25327
  • [Adaptation-10] > Change (1)-Illumination_algorithm-Scale_switching_algorithm from parking_light to lds"
Thanks for posting this, I've wanted to fix this forever. The default dimming drives me nuts, often rendering the gauges completely dark and unreadable during some daylight conditions. This is exactly the solution I was seeking - just keep the illumination up full time. I have OBDeleven but it was easy to find the appropriate settings to alter. I'll give it a whirl tomorrow. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Thanks for posting this, I've wanted to fix this forever. The default dimming drives me nuts, often rendering the gauges completely dark and unreadable during some daylight conditions. This is exactly the solution I was seeking - just keep the illumination up full time. I have OBDeleven but it was easy to find the appropriate settings to alter. I'll give it a whirl tomorrow. :thumbup:
No problem. I was hoping my thread could help others and is one of the reasons I started it!
 

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No problem. I was hoping my thread could help others and is one of the reasons I started it!
Welp.. drove it around in daylight today, and it works either identically to how it did before (i.e. crappy) or if it has changed, it's no better. I still have periods in broad daylight where the cluster is completely dark. If the sun isn't in a position to help, I can't see anything on any of the instruments, given that I'm wearing sunglasses and my retinas are in gradual decline. When they DO light up, visibility is fine. Somehow the stupid light sensor logic is whack and tells the cluster to go completely dim in some (most!) lighting conditions.

Does your cluster stay at full illumination now, even in daylight? If so I'll give it another go, though my programming seemed to go fine. Now I *really* want to fix this.

And your car looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
Welp.. drove it around in daylight today, and it works either identically to how it did before (i.e. crappy) or if it has changed, it's no better. I still have periods in broad daylight where the cluster is completely dark. If the sun isn't in a position to help, I can't see anything on any of the instruments, given that I'm wearing sunglasses and my retinas are in gradual decline. When they DO light up, visibility is fine. Somehow the stupid light sensor logic is whack and tells the cluster to go completely dim in some (most!) lighting conditions.

Does your cluster stay at full illumination now, even in daylight? If so I'll give it another go, though my programming seemed to go fine. Now I *really* want to fix this.

And your car looks great.
Yes, it works as intended for me. With this tweak until your headlights come on and when your light switch is on 'Auto' the cluster will stay fully illuminated. When your headlights come on the cluster will follow whatever dimmer position you have then set. The only thing that still bothers me though is the radio will still dim at times when I don't think it should. For me it's common before sunset or when it's overcast/cloudy.

Here is the original thread:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...uster-lighting-in-parking-side-light-position

I don't see that I explained this well in my original post so I'm going to update that.

Oh and thanks for the compliment. For now I'm going for the OEM Plus look. Lol.
 

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Yes, it works as intended for me. With this tweak until your headlights come on and when your light switch is on 'Auto' the cluster will stay fully illuminated. When your headlights come on the cluster will follow whatever dimmer position you have then set. The only thing that still bothers me though is the radio will still dim at times when I don't think it should. For me it's common before sunset or when it's overcast/cloudy.
I reran the procedure last night with OBDeleven to make sure the reprogramming "took", and it had. I also did some more research and came up with identical instructions from the OBDeleven forums from a year or so ago. Scratched my head, farted twice, and went to sleep.

Today I had to do a run up to Phoenix (3 hrs each way) and I think it stayed illuminated the entire time. Weird that the tweak is working now but wasn't yesterday. But I'll take it.

I think there may be a way to program the other backlighting (switchgear, infotainment screen) to stay at full brightness too, I think I stumbled on something in my quest to light the cluster. If I decide that (lack of) lighting is bugging me too I'll dig around again. But for now I'm happy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I reran the procedure last night with OBDeleven to make sure the reprogramming "took", and it had. I also did some more research and came up with identical instructions from the OBDeleven forums from a year or so ago. Scratched my head, farted twice, and went to sleep.

Today I had to do a run up to Phoenix (3 hrs each way) and I think it stayed illuminated the entire time. Weird that the tweak is working now but wasn't yesterday. But I'll take it.

I think there may be a way to program the other backlighting (switchgear, infotainment screen) to stay at full brightness too, I think I stumbled on something in my quest to light the cluster. If I decide that (lack of) lighting is bugging me too I'll dig around again. But for now I'm happy.
Sounds good! I know I've had times where coding didn't seem to work at first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Valentine 1 Radar w/Blendmount VW009 Install

03/18/2017:

I've never had a radar detector and always wanted one. I don't really speed but I think it's nice to know what's out there lurking. I was planning a road trip to my first Wookies in the Woods event so I thought it would be a good time to buy are radar and have it installed before my journey.

I like to research things and try to get the best for my money. Radar detectors are a tricky bunch as I could not find that one that ruled them all. I did my research though and picked what I thought was the best for me at the time. I read up on the rdforum and also read some great info from VortexRadar. I highly recommend those two resources if you are trying to decide which radar detector to get.

I settled on the Valentine 1 and also decided to get a Blendmount as well. The part number for the mount I used is VW009 and it varies depending on the type of rear view mirror you have. In addition to the Valentine 1 I decide to get the bluetooth dongle and also the iOS app V1Driver so that I can enable GPS lockout and other useful features. VortexRadar goes more in depth about these extras which was very helpful.

Here are some pics:





 
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