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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
UPDATE 4/14 FOR SALE! I JUST TRADED MY 2012 GOLF R FOR A 2019, SO THIS UNIT IS AVAILABLE. HIT ME UP!


DISCLAIMER:
I haven’t gotten any sort of deal in exchange for posting, and likely Bill from EuroZoneTuning will be reading this at the same time as all of you! (Hi Bill!). It’s not my intention to promote any business, just sharing my experience (which was great, BTW). If you have anything to add to this DIY, please do so for the benefit of the community!

TL;DR:
If you want 100% OEM, 100% integrated, 100% working, and you have the money, this is the best radio on the market for our cars. If you are feeling adventurous you can even get rid of your mdi aux rear console and replace it with the non cd rear version to the usb/aux cable over there there for a clean OEM look. Alternatively you can run the cable loose to the glovebox.
If you don’t care about integrated nav or dynaudio (or your car doesn't have them) , then for the price, the RCD330+ is a hard deal to beat (but be aware of all the little gremlins that come with it)

WHY?:
Got my mk6 r in april 2012 and i'm in love with it. The original plan was to get an mk7.5 in 2018, but with the mk8 coming in 2020 and the 2018's been stuck, i’m leaning towards keeping the car around for a couple more years.
Quite frankly, the radio unit was one of the things where VW cheapened out in the NAR models. No complains as we got a heck of a deal compared to our friends in Europe, but that small screen is one of those things that don't belong in our cars. That and the rear oem lights ;)
At the time i considered the RNS510 retrofit but it felt too expensive and too much of a job given it also required an external bluetooth module. Little did i know what i would be getting into, but with time and the experience of doing a few mods in the car i’ve grown more comfortable of messing around with things.
In any case, late december I came across some post that talked about a radio sold in the chinese market that was oem, plug and play, had a large(r) capacitive touchscreen and carplay and for such a cheap price i just had to try it out. The radio looked gorgeous. It was like updating from a flipphone to an iphone (if you are more or less my age lol). But seeing what could be an amazing radio being plagued by little problems, made me start thinking about the mib2 pq retrofit. Afterall, i’m ’saving’ a lot by not buying the mk7.5, so might aswell drop some on a new radio and continue feeling in love with my mk6, right? :)

ENTER THE MIB2 PQ RETROFIT:
Individual parts required can be found with some internet searching… i do not know what type of magic is required if you buy the nav unit off the shelf, but read out there that you need some content protection and coding you must acquire from VW for radio and nav to work and quite frankly i don’t much trust on VW stealerships in the area , so just went ahead and bought EuroZoneTuning’s kit from https://eurozonetuning.com/products/vw-discover-media-plus-mib2-pq-retrofit-kit-w-apple-carplay?variant=6376363851804

PREPARATIONS:
1. You will need a new canbus module if you need to do any vagcom coding (and you might want to do some vagcom coding), so prepare $119 dollars. Part # 7N0907530BC. The unit i got from EuroZoneTuning looked OEM, but also looked like it had been used, and was made in china. Look, iphones are made in china, so nothing against it, but given its listed at same price as VW car part sites, i was expecting a new made in germany or czech republic perhaps.

2. Installing the canbus module is a 30 min job. In mk6r LHD cars, it’s located underneath the steering wheel, you will need to remove the 2 screws holding the feet air vent (careful to not damage the temp sensor when taking the vent out) and you’ll see it towards the left hand side if you are looking up from the floor. Take pics of your adaptation channels in VCDS before unplugging your old module, and configure the new module accordingly.

3 (Optional) Replace your rear center console and wire up the usb/aux connectors to it (budget 4 hours with breaks unless you are better than me). I thought if i was to go all in on the OEM look, i wanted to get get rid of the now useless mdi aux, and get the cleaner look of the non-cd rear console. If you are up for it, keep reading, otherwise your options are running the usb/aux cable to the glovebox and leave it hanging there, or buy center console button covers and try housing them in there. The connector won’t fit on the opening for the glovebox light (i thought i'd try since my former mk5 gti had the aux connection there but no dice). I didn’t try fitting them in the center console, so i don't know if that's an option. The USB aux is very long, so that might limit your options.

You’ll need to buy all these, which run for about $150. ECSTuning has kits, but i don’t think they include all the parts.
  • Non CD rear console: 1K0-863-323-R-82V
  • Non CD rear console: 1K0-863-323-R-82V
  • Non-CD rear duct: 1K0-864-255-C (the C is very important)
  • Insert: 1K0-863-328-B-82V
  • Cap: 1K0868887D82V
The non CD rear console model comes with an aux opening, but is too small to house the mib2 aux ports. Dremel your way to a bigger opening until the new adapter fits snug

Then comes the fun part, replacing the rear console. I loosely followwed these tutorials for the mk5
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/center-console-removal-mk5-vw-jetta-golf/
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Volkswagen_Golf_GTI_Mk_V/104-BODY-Rear_Center_Console_Removal/104-BODY-Rear_Center_Console_Removal.htm
I managed to be successful without removing the center and front console parts, but you’ll sweat some in the process. My mk6 is a two door, so the back and forth seat movement helped a ton when dealing with screws (specially one of them on the passenger side). I dunno how the 4 door situation will look like and if it might be necessary to take the seats out. In any case when in doubt, doublecheck you are not missing some obscure screw hidden somewhere. I missed the one at the top of the jalousette while the handbrake was all the way up covering it, so don’t make my mistake (and yes, i didn't know what a jalousette after the fact)

When you have the inner rear console out, test the fitting of your new cover part with the aux inserted in the hole you dremel’d. You might need to dremel a tiny bit on the inner console plastic for the aux panel to fit right in, but other than that you are done with poking holes in plastics.

While you have everything taken out, use a cable snake fish tape to bring the aux cables from the front and center console through the passenger side to the rear. You want to have enough slack on the cable for fitting once you start putting things togheter, but not too much as space is very much limited.

Putting everything back togheter was a lot easier than taking it out (45 min). That said, i kinda brute force the rear duct and jalousette into the center console. These are hard plastics you are dealing with and I personally felt more comfortable forcing the parts in that taking apart half of the car, but your mileage may vary :) Your best friend is pulling the handbrake hard to get more movement to get the console in and out, but after you are done with it you’ll want to tighten the cable before you put everything back togheter, or you handbrake will feel loose (Yes, that happened to me aswell). You’ll need a 10mm wrench for that.

4 Replace the radio: Get the radio trim out, unscrew the radio you have. My kit came with a harness adapter, but you might need to triple check the pins in the microphone adapter. Some pics i had found on the internet had the pins on the mib2 harness in a different location, and while the harness i got had them in the right place, it turned out they had to be swapped. I would’ve thought i would not need to get in the business of swapping pins around, but i guess at this point, i can deal pretty much with anything :) Connect the battery if you disconnected it, turn things on and marvel at your own success!

5 VCDS coding: In order to do any coding you’ll need 1 a new canbus module. Don’t freak out i you can’t talk to the radio on the usual navigation channel, the mib2 pq is on address 5F. As shipped the radio sounded (to me at least) a tiny bit on the flat side, with a peak volume relatively low. I did follow the instructions here http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f78/discover-media-retrofit-119974.html to replace the fender logo with the dynaudio one, and coding dynaudio settings.

ENJOY your new radio!
To my ears, the sound is now exactly as the car came from factory. Everything just works, integration with the mfi, steering wheel controls, navigation, voice, bluetooth, carplay… the software runs quite snappy too. Happy customer, would potato again!
 

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Before I read through your review, seems like we had the same mindset for the armrest I tracked down the same armrest and am working with a guy who got one of the last "at the time" factory unlocked radios i should finish paying for mine this coming Tuesday and should be joining the MIB2 club soon :)

On to read the review!
Thanks again!

Edit: excellent write-up! And thank you for that plug number so I can cover up the screw when done! I'm going to have my guy try to use this smaller USB AUX plug and do some slight dremmeling to make it fit. Also thank you for the Dynaudio link!!

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
 

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WOW! Nicely done!

Question for you re apple carplay/ipod midi connection. Does the new unit allow you to connect your iPhone via BT for calls and an iPod with the USB for music at the same time?
 

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Can I assume my OEM backup camera will plug and play into this unit? (their FAQ mentions other units, but not this one)
Also you mention alternate locations for the USB, but I wonder if there are DIY's for those (glove box or button replacement by shifter)
thanks. this is an interesting option if I decide to keep the car.

unrelated question: what is the value of updating to the current HVAC head unit as see in iceorbit's pics? Looks cool, but I wonder if it also gives some sort of performance or other advantage./
 

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Camera is a hit or miss, some say you need an update module some say then old works or cam work.
Us locations, the aux and USB from Double Apex should in theory work.and the advantage of the updated HVAC is that it's a cleaner interface, allows for an auto recirculation with module added if you buy it and isn't all said module, and it allows for precise tempts, for me 72 was too cold and 74 to hot but 73 is perfect lol see for other odd options.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
 

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Was wanting to do this same thing to my car and after this write up it's going to be easier to make that call.

I too have the MK7 Climatronic unit that I purchased from Bold Sport. Interesting though that mine came with the matte aluminum knobs. Did you get your unit from another company? If so I'd be interested to know where. I'm not trying to install this unit with the rubber knobs and have mismatching knobs.
 

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Camera is a hit or miss, some say you need an update module some say then old works or cam work. Us locations, the aux and USB from Double Apex should in theory work.
how do you know which solution works?
 

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I can provide you with my friends email address who's holding on to an unlocked radio for me and he can clarify what is needed to have the mk6 camera working, i know the site for this unlocked one sells a new camera module. I'll message you shortly.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i don't have an ipod myself but will try with two iphones, one connected via bt the other via usb and report back.
re: aux to glovebox, you should be able to snake fish tape the cable through the opening underneath where the car documentation is stored no probs
re: camera, eurozone's listing mentions the need for an updated harness in order to be able to connect an RVC, and i assume there's also some vagcom involved aswell
re: HVAC controls. I bought off ebay, i believed sourced from a 16 jetta. I was specifically looking for the one without auto recirc as i didn't want to install additional sensors and such. My motivation was mostly to control temp using Celsius in .5 degree increments, but in general i like the layout of the buttons better
 

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The auto-recirc HVAC panel works fine, even if you don't install the Air Quality Sensor. You will just get a soft code if you run VCDS. The unit will cycle through open, recirc, and auto-recirc.
 

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Just FYI. This dongle in the pic won't work with MIB2. This one is cheap replica one and you need one that has Apple Car Play license built in/Android Auto ready. This one simply gives error. Ask me how I know but you should know the answer to it.

I patched most of the MIB2 Radios being sold online and activated them properly for newest maps available.

If you have color MFD you will need more than the OP's post Just so you know.

-Peter
Thanks about the dongle, and already got the cluster situation covered/handled. Just waiting to finish paying a bill and will then get this knocked out.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
 

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For anyone who installs the MIB 2 and finds that their OEM microphone isn't working: if your car came from the factory with RCD-310 or RCD-510 and a separate bluetooth module (i.e. 9W2, 9W7, etc), or a similar setup, you'll have to do this.

The OEM microphone wiring does not go straight to the head unit wire harness. The two microphone leads go to the bluetooth module connector underneath the passenger seat. However, I took my 9W7 bluetooth module out of the car because it was causing conflict with the MIB2 bluetooth. So, the microphone leads go nowhere at this point. Luckily, the audio signal OUT +/- wires from the blue bluetooth connector lead straight to the head unit wiring loom. In fact, following the pins & wiring from the OEM loom to the quadralock adapter, they're going to where the microphone IN +/- is supposed to go into the MIB2. So, you can take advantage of this. At the bluetooth module connector underneath the passenger seat, jump the microphone IN leads to the audio OUT leads (pins 11/12 and 8/9). This worked for me after 1 polarity trial & error. Black & clear are mic IN, blue and white are audio OUT. Here's a pic:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SbDeTMXNjKP1fzc47
 

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I'm not in a golf, but in a 2015 Passat Highline (SEL in the US).

So far, so good, but not perfect yet. Working on it. Think Eurozonetuning is amazing. They are ridiculously responsive when you come into issues.

So far the bugs and/or issues:
- My system had a Fender, volume is way too loud (max volume for my ear drums is like 15-20%)
- No rear camera (ordered the wrong part as my Highline car has a Lowline camera), this is being fixed very soon
- My car doesn't have the external 9w3/7 etc module, so I'm having a problem disabling my onboard bluetooth. Annoying that the MFI keeps wanting me to connect my phone when it is already paired to the radio
- Loss of display on the screen when changing the temperature of the climate control, fan, adjust heated seats (this is waaaaay gimmicky anyways and could not care less)
- My mic doesn't work. I think it is just switching out pins, but waiting for the rear camera part to pull out the deck one time (taking it somewhere vs. myself doing it).

Other than that, it is awesome and much faster than the RNS-510. Not even close. That deck is sloooooooooooow. And carplay will get infinitely better when waze is released in the fall.
 

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Hello! I too decided to upgrade my RNS 510 to the discover media and purchased the same set up through eurozonetuning. So far, I've been having a few issues. The first one is with the RVC. What I've seen is that about 50 percent of the time, when I shift into reverse, the camera screen does not activate on the display. When I reset the unit (holding down the power button for about 10 seconds) and it reboots, the back up screen appears. I have an OEM lowline retrofitted RGB camera that I converted to composite using an adapter. I love the new interface and the carplay availability, but the RVC not working is making me regret my purchase. I reached out the eurozonetuning and they were very responsive, but their only advice was to change the RVC to a composite camera. I don't really want to go through swapping out the camera unless I'm sure this is the issue. I don't see how the camera being different will change the fact that the unit will not switch to the back up screen on reverse. I read on some other threads that the discover media had a software bug that was updated by the dealer, but seeing as these units are 'hacked' I'm not sure if that even is an option.

My second issue is with the canbus gateway. I upgraded my old gateway to a newer -BD model, and while I gained access to the 5F module, I lost access to the 4F module that controls my analog clock (2012 NMS Passat) and the sunroof. On the ross-tech forums the advice I've gotten so far is to change back to the old module. I am in the process of doing that, but I was wondering if anyone else had any other solutions first. Judging from the information I've read in this thread and in others, I just need a gateway with -Bx or -AN and above designation for a lowline RVC. Do I specifically need a -BC or -BG? I assumed -BD would work. Thoughts? Thanks!
 

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Hi, maybe it can help you.

The original camera have a delay of about 8 seconds before the video disappears after disengaging the reverse gear. Maybe with the addition of the composite RGB converter this function has disappeared, which would cause the following error message... like this: The ParkPilot is currently not available.


you have 2 solutions. replace your backup camera with this one: # 561827566D

www.ebay.com : 232450077837 (MIB Rear View Camera W/Cable For VW Jetta MK6 Passat NMS 561827566D)

or add a module like this:

ebay.com : 152991657248 (Rear View Camera Delay Timer Module Filter For VW PQ35/46 MIB)




and for the Gateway,

4F is still available in the gateway installation list of the BD model? I saw that the module BG has both (5F and 4F) available, maybe it could work.

Good luck!

Me too, I am currently installing MIB 2 retrofit from EZT. (MK6 GTI)
 

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Thanks for the advice! I had actually went ahead a week ago and ordered a composite RVC off ebay:
( https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-View-Backup-Camera-RVC-Handle-Type-For-Tiguan-5N-Jetta-MK6-For-RCD330-187B/263454212547?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 )

The installation instructions are likely the same as when I retrofitted an OEM RVC. I'm not sure if I'm going to 'cut the white wire for guide lines' as suggested in the pictures for the camera.

I solved the loss of the 4F module but putting back the original canbus gateway. I was still able to access the 5F module to program the discover media unit by searching for it on the bottom left search function in VCDS. Sunroof and clock work again! So maybe the gateway DOESN'T need to be changed to do this retrofit. I'll be installing the camera today and I'll be sure to update with findings...and maybe pictures if people are interested. Thanks for the advice!:laugh:
 

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Quick update: changed the camera...new camera has a digital relay...same issue still persists...not sure what to do next :/
 

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When you activate reverse gear, do you have a black screen ? or normal radio display ?

if the display does not change, stayed in radio mode, it is rather a problem than your radio does not receive the signal that you activate reverse gear. The radio receives this signal from the CANBUS network (via the CANBUS Gateway) and not from the camera itself.
 
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