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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
There's still lots of questions going around about servicing all the drivetrain oils, minus DSG. So I decided to take a few pictures to point out where all the drain & fill plugs are.

Oil capacities and part #'s were taken from 2008 A3 fluid capacity table last updated July 2012. Repair procedures and torque specs are referenced from 2008 A3 3.2 CBRA with DSG repair manual.

With each of these units, have a drain pan handy, remove the fill plug first to allow air to displace the oil, then remove the drain plug. Fill and drain sealing washers do okay when re-used, just make sure they don't have any rings crushed into them. Or plan ahead and get replacements; repair manual recommends replacing the drain/fill bolts.

BEVEL BOX/TRANSFER CASE

Oil part #G 052 145 S2 (confirmed in ETKA), for 02E DSG bevel box used with 0AV rear final drive. New Fill: 0.9L (1.0qt)
Drain and fill plugs 15Nm for 5mm allen drives; upper & lower: N 902 818 02. If you have a larger sized drain bolt, 60Nm; 02M 409 057

View from below: Yellow X is the engine oil drain bolt, Red circle is drain plug, Blue circle is fill plug, Green X is front propeller shaft coupler.



Better view of fill plug: Blue circle is fill plug, Yellow X is the R/F driveshaft inner flange.



Side view of fill plug from r/f driveshaft:



Drain and fill are removed using a 5mm allen. Use a 1/4" drive allen driver on fill plug, ball end helps, and extensions. Not a lot of torque is needed so if hand tightening keep in mind: aluminum housing. If you can't see the fill, take a picture with your mobile do every and sometimes place calls device, check the allen drive for dirt and clean out if necessary to prevent rounding it out. Fill til it spills. No temperature sensors in the unit and no temp recommendation by the repair manual. Try to have the car level.

HALDEX

Oil part #G 055 175 A2 if your rear diff starts with 0AV. G 060 175 A2 if rear diff starts with 0BR (verified these #'s through ETKA for Audi). For 0AV; New Fill: 0.85L (0.9 qt); Replacement: 0.65L (0.7qt)
Filter part #02D 598 574 (from ECS' website)
Fill plug 15Nm, 5mm allen drive (N 902 818 02). Drain plug 30Nm, 8mm allen drive (N 910 827 01). Filter cap 35Nm.

The second best feature of this car behind VR6 noises. There's no recommended service interval for the filter so replace whenever you feel like; not a lot of wear in the haldex clutch nor is it exposed to contaminates. I wasn't thinking of it when I took pictures so one will have to be added in a future update.

Silver box with the dimples and black border is the haldex control unit. Blue circle is fill with 5mm allen drive, Red circle is the drain with 8mm allen drive. Drain bolt is pretty tight to the housing so having a ball allen helps.



Fill til it spills, drive around to warm up oil. As per repair manual, "The oil temperature must be 20 to 40 °C (68 to 104 °F)" This is found in AWD electronics control module address 22, measured value block for control module temperature or clutch temperature; best to look at both. When warm enough and vehicle level, remove fill plug, let excess drain out to bottom of hole or as much as 3mm below fill hole.

Rear final drive/rear diff housing 0AV

Oil part #G 052 145 S2 (confirmed in ETKA), used with 0AV and 0BR rear final drives. 0.95L (1.0 qt) with 0AV
Fill and drain bolts 15Nm, 5mm allen drive (upper & lower: N-902-818-02).

Red circle is drain plug, Blue circle is fill plug, as a reference for location/orientation Yellow X is the electrical connector for suspension level sensor. With vehicle level, "the oil level is correct when the rear final drive is filled to the lower edge of the filler hole".



Cases can be filled using a gear oil pump. Best not to mix oils so get a few of em; inexpensive pumps from harbor freight tools do a good job. Haldex oil is pretty thick, so shake up the bottle (additives collect in the bottom) and heat it up a little to get it flowing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If I remember correctly, mine was leaking when I got the car. Topped it off and monitored the leak. Seal for R/F driveshaft flange was leaking and kept getting worse. I checked a week after initial top off and oil spilled out of the fill hole. Waited maybe a month and was still good. Took maybe 3-6 months before the leak dropped the oil level enough to need topping off. When the leak was dripping oil off the belly pan daily is when I replaced some of the seals. At least I think that's how this process went down, been more than a year.

How much it will need for top off depends on how bad the leak is and how long it's been leaking. Could be as little as 10mL or something like 100-300mL. However much mine took was low enough for me to not at all worry about the bevel gears being burned.
 

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Bevel Box oil:

The oil was only available from VW stearlership for 47,50€ / liter
I tried two of the biggest Finnish parts retails stores and none of them had the oil even in their database.
I truly recommend using this instead of any Castrol, Mobil or other oil companies products with similar specifications

Here's what a liter of bottled mermaid tears looks like.



Alex
 

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Just curious why you recommend OEM fluid over other reputable companies such as Amsoil, Motul etc?
Fist of all this is just my opinion and here it goes.

1, as seen on the first two picture of this topic the job doesn't seem to be one of the easiest to do.
So by choosing "some" oil do you really want to risk of doing the job again?
Luckily I have the gearbox separated from the engine and doing it this way is alot easier. :thumbup:


2, I've read 2-3 cases where the bevel box has shattered/broken/tooth have chipped etc. If I remember correctly the retail price for this with the replacement is somewhere between 2k-3k$?
If the 20$ that you save by using Motul, Castol Geartrax/Syntrax makes your bank account go less minus, feel free.
But as I said, I'd go with the OEM. Thatway I KNOW that the gears swim in the proper fluid that VW recommends. :heart:

3, And to be honest this is a job that you will do once, max twice in the average car lifespan until you decide to let the car go and buy an RS4 ;)

So OEM oil or aftermarket + fuel for 200miles? It's up to you.
And when doing this remember to clean or replace the magnetic oil plug. Mine was "full", but managed to clean it.


:beer::beer::beer: Ahh Saturday!
-Alex


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6066698-Tranfer-Case-Power-Takeoff-Unit-Failure

Update:
Front Diff/Bevel Gear/Final Drive unit replaced under extended warranty.

0AV-409-053-T $2,607.99
Gear oil, labor, tax $1,137.07

Total---------->$3745.06 :eek:
 

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I agree OEM oil is best for the diffs, the specs are exact to VW's recommendation. I had read a thread years ago about a MKIV R that blew the rear diff using redline oil. That redline oil is still sitting in my garage years later. Probably should have researched before buying, I'm going to play it safe and save the fancy oil for my motor.
 

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I agree OEM oil is best for the diffs, the specs are exact to VW's recommendation. I had read a thread years ago about a MKIV R that blew the rear diff using redline oil. That redline oil is still sitting in my garage years later. Probably should have researched before buying, I'm going to play it safe and save the fancy oil for my motor.
I was just curious for his reasoning. I'd be much more inclined to stick with OE oil as far as the engine goes, and upgrade the not so technical rear end's fluid haha. Redline would def not be my choice though.

The whole convo makes me curious if anyone knows who makes VW's gear oil. I assume it's a Castrol product. Maybe someone can chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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Ahh I missed that note at the bottom, as I know and have performed the Haldex/rear diff changeout myself. I figured some type of pump. I have that red one somewhere...

Thank you for the mini DIY! :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
^ I was considering adding links to harbor freight tools but figured those would eventually expire. I took a picture of my pump, but I have it atop a bottle of ATF for the ZF 8spd so I decided not to use it, didn't wan't to cause confusion. If you've never been to a harbor freight, don't grab a cart so you'll be limited to how much you can carry. That place is like a candy store for DIY adults.

Your ? got me to stop being lazy and add pictures so people will have an idea of what to look for.
 

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Here's what the job looked from my POV.

I believed that the oil was still original (120k) in the bevel box, but it looked quite normal to me.
Sure it was black, but the oil was still fresh and still smelled like cat piss. :D
Can't imagine how joyful the labor is when the gearbox is still inside the car...

Tools that I used:
1x HEINZ KETCHUP PUMP!! :eek: (have used before, still works like a dream:thumbup::thumbup:)
1x pneumatic tool hose adapter, 3/4" (the thread is different, but it goes about 1½ turns in and doesn't leak)
2x clamps for the hose
1x hose 1ft (30cm)

And the capacity was 0,9l exactly
NOTE: THE TOOLS ARE SUITABLE FOR ANY OF THE TRANSAXLE/HALDEX OIL REPLACEMENTS



The oil:






The tools:




The job:


 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The bevel box R&R repair time includes the labor operation for rear final drive oil inspect + add, but that labor operation isn't listed separately. All I could find was the Haldex oil replacement labor operation which is 40 time units (24 minutes; time seems to include use of scan tool for temperature). Since you have to remove the belly pan to get to the bevel box and the inspection plug is harder to access than the haldex, expect something in the range of 25 - 75 TU, depending on if anything else is being serviced. If the car is already in the air for something like an oil change, then it's not that much extra trouble to drain/fill the bevel box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Here's what the job looked from my POV.
Nice addition and I like the recycling of the ketchup pump :thumbup:

But I can't help but wonder about that reverse fill method. Used the adapter just for the sake of finding a use for it, or was the outside diameter of the hose too large to fit inside the fill port?

If the hose was too large, and anyone else runs into that problem, one way to get around that is to cut a slit into the end of hose and maybe cut out a strip until you can fold the hose enough to fit it in.
 
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