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Re: (thelema13)

Ah, stalling problems on a mk3. Sounds familiar

Does it cut out 10 minutes into each trip, or every now and again? If it's intermittent then the fuel pressure gauge may not show a bad pump - if it wasn't due to cut out *that* time. How old is your fuel pump? My car has been through 3 and has 160k miles on it. Since the last replacement, I learned to always keep the tank half full.
I assume the GL has a distributor and not a coil pack, since you mentioned a distributor in your first post. Have you tried squirting water on the wires where they join the distributor to see if it cuts out (or arcs) then? That's how you test a coil pack; I think it would be the same for a distributor. How old are your distributor/rotor arm/plugs/wires?
-Antun

Quote, originally posted by thelema13 »
my buddy is coming over tomorrow or the day after with a fuel pressure gauge or something like that to check the fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
haha, i am about crazy with this!!!!
got the sensor, took off the oil filter, motor mounts, and wiggled my way in there to find someone tried to replace this before because the 5mm head was rounded out!
i cannot figure out how to get this bolt out for the life of me, i have been working on it sporadically for 2 weeks now due to mid terms and papers due... but i digress....
i have tried a screw out thing from sears, just made it worse.
i tried drilling a hole then using an easy-out, bolt is to tight in there it wont come out- dammit!
i just bought a drill out bit, it drills a hole then has an extractor directly behind it, been drilling for 10 minutes and its not grabbing ahold.
im seriously thinking about setting the whole car on fire and calling my insurance company....
 

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Re: (thelema13)

Try using a cutting tool to cut (very carefully so you don't cut the head off) a notch in the bolt head. Then use a flat-head screwdriver with a lot of pressure into the bolt (so you don't snap the bolt head off) to slowly back it out. If that fails, you may have to grind the head off. When I was replacing my front right half-axle, I had to grind out one of the heat-tempered bolts. Pure b!tch.
 

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Re: mk3 engine cutting out after 10 minutes... PLEASE HELP (thelema13)

i'm surprised nobody mentioned the ignition switch.
the current going through the switch could be heating it up causing and open circuit ...
i remember a post a while back where a guy could only start his car if it was sitting in the shade and the interior was cool but if the car was sitting in the sun with a hot interior it wouldn't start... turned out to be the ignition switch...
its a CHEAP and easy part to replace and a common part that fails on mk3s... just throwing it out there http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: mk3 engine cutting out after 10 minutes... PLEASE HELP (trixx)

Does the CEL light come on as a dummy light when you first turn the car on? Cuz it should, and if it doesn't then the bulb is burned out and you prolly have tons of codes.
Yeah, I would guess the Crank Position Sensor, or Vapor Lock.
Open the hood and look at the exhaust manifold. (Metal rusty pipes coming out of the back of the engine)
Is there a metal box-like heatshield around the pipes on the back? Or are the 4 pipes just sticking straight out?
I found on my 96 jetta that if I don't have the heatshield inplace, then on days that are 90+ degrees, and when Im driving the car really hard for over an hour....that I will get vapor lock. I would just let it sit for about 5 mins with the hood open to let the fuel lines cool off then it would be fine again...until I replaced the heat-shield.
You can test the ignition switch by removing the plastic cover around the steering column. Pop the wire-plug off the back of the ignition switich.
Should look like this:
1-2-3
4----5
Make little wire jumpers. 2 is the "hot" line. Connect 2 to 4 to put the car in the "on" position, the cluster should come on with all the dummy lights. Then briefly connect 2 to 1 to crank and start the engine.
If its none of the above, then its probably fuel related.
If you want, you could get a vag-com cable off ebay (12$ shipped) and then download vag-com (free) onto a laptop. Then drive the car with the laptop plugged into the car so you can see all the "inputs" and then when the car stalls see what/which one of the input sensors changes before it dies. ALthough I would think anything detectable like that would trip a code...
 

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Re: mk3 engine cutting out after 10 minutes... PLEASE HELP (aaaaaaaaaa)

I had this exact problem and it was the crankshaft positioning sensor.
The dealership ordered 2 wrong sensors and got it right on the third try, so I forget how much it was exactly.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
i have the cps, $65 at advance auto parts.
im just having one hell of a time getting the bolt that secures it to the motor off.
im trying another, different type of an easy-out tomorrow.
i cannot dremel a slot into the head due to the close proximity of the bolt head to everything surrounding it. i thought about cutting the sensor from the piece that is bolted onto the motor just so i could get some vice grips on the thing, but the dremel blade is too short. so i whacked at it for 20 minutes with a stubby straight blade and a hammer, didnt break it, just wedged a nice line into the plastic.
tomorrow will be a better day..... i hope!
 

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put a flat head screw driver on the top of the bolt and smack it so it should spin counter clock-wise a couple real good hits and it should spin its self out.
That sensor is a bitch to replace, the real kicker is its just a ****ing magnet with two wires coming out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
YAY!!!!
i finally got it out. i smacked the **** out of it with a chisel and the sensor broke off, so i pulled it out, then used one of those sockets for rounded out heads, and it came out after 5 minutes of banging it on. used a 10mm one for it.
so i go to put the new sensor in, but i realize that the car shop sold me the wrong one, so i have ordered from another shop with the correct head on it, be here tomorrow, will let everyone know if it is fixed. i friggen hope so, cause if my car was layed out for 2 weeks for nothing ill be right pissed.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
all appears well, replacing the crankshaft position sensor has remedied the situation. car also shifts better now....
basically, to fix this problem, i had to
1) remove the oil filter
2) remove the motor mount
3) remove old sensor, with a rounded out bolt holding it on.
4)cleaned the sensor housing with paper towel and an air machine
5) installed new sensor, $88 bucks at autozone, with a new hex bolt 6-1mm
6) put motor mounts back on
7) new oil filter after i changed the oil
took me 2 weeks cause i suck at cars, but now i am driving happily down the road.
thanks for all the help and input, vwvortex is the best forum ive been to.
 

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hey i got the same problem with my 96 jetta gl and its not the filter because i got a new one and a pump and im going to try it with a new ecm and i will let u know what happen if get it by the time i write u let me know u can reach me at [email protected]
 

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Hot wire your ignition to bypass the ignition switch.
It might be worth putting your filter and mount back on and taking a test drive. Stripping that bolt........... terrifying
 

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bad fuel pump, inline or main pump?
 

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ok, i have subscribed to several other forums and posted the same question. no answers and help!!!
first off, i have a 1998 golf gl, manual, with 150k on the engine, new timing belt and water pump about 2 months ago.
my car shuts down after about 10 minutes of driving. it will cut out if i am in gear, neutral, moving or not. after waiting 15-30 minutes, it will start back up as if nothing happened in the first place.
after searching online FOREVER, i found a lot of people have this problem. it seems everyone replaced their ECU/ECM relay, relay 109, position #3.
i have replaced the fuel pump relay, no fix. i have ordered the ECM relay, waiting for it to come in.... but i noticed my car doesnt even have an ECM relay in it. so that blows my theory of the relay heating up and cutting out the ECM.
can someone please help me?! i have been waiting for a few weeks for help on the other forums and no one will help.
could it be my crankshaft position sensor? coil pack? distributor? fuel pump? spark plugs and wires?
what should i do? i am a nursing student with limited money, i dont want to throw unnecessary parts into my car.
thanks in advance to any/all help!!!



Modified by thelema13 at 8:56 AM 3-13-2010
Thelema13:

Have you had your generator/accessory belt checked? Your car will start with battery voltage but if belt is loose and it's not charging, it will/can loose power. I'd check that too. And like someone said, the ground on engine block. Gets rusty. Spray with Fluid Film. Also disconnect, use coarse sandpaper and reconnect ground. Hope it works out.
 

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Same problem mine is cutting off too
Thelema13:

Have you had your generator/accessory belt checked? Your car will start with battery voltage but if belt is loose and it's not charging, it will/can loose power. I'd check that too. And like someone said, the ground on engine block. Gets rusty. Spray with Fluid Film. Also disconnect, use coarse sandpaper and reconnect ground. Hope it works out.
you guys know that this is a 10 year old thread and that Thelema has not been active in 5 months right?
 
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