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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I auto-x my jetta and drive it on the street. Is there any possible way I can dial in a lot of negative camber for the track and then set it back to like -1 or so repeatably? The problem is that with the stock bolts and slots in the struts, there is no way to be sure I would get it back to where it was. I guess a set of camber plates would be some what repeatable with the marks on the top but I don't really want to spend the money for them. What I really would like is some type of wobble bolt that fit tight in the strut and tight in the knuckle that I could mark, turn for racing, and then set back to the mark for the street. If I don't get the camber the same on both sides after I reset it, it will pull to the left or right on the street.

Any good way to do this?
 

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Cross camber doesn't cause pull, cross caster does. If the caster is being affected by changes in camber, then that will cause the pull. If you are adjusting camber, you'll also have to worry about changes in toe. Toe is what actually causes severe tire wear. If you don't correct for the toe as well, its not worth the effort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hmmm. So, when the shop set my car originally they staggered the camber "to make up for the crown in the road". This caused the car to run straight if there was a crown in the road, but it pulled on a flat road. Last time I had them set the camper to -1* on both sides and it now runs true on a flat road but sometimes pulls a little more on a big crown in the road. So you are saying that they didn't do the toe setting properly?

Toe would be an easier adjustment to repeat. I could get a set of toe plates and just count the turns on the tie rods. Do you think this would be good enough for the street? What is a good auto-x toe setting?
 

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Did the shop not adjust the toe after setting the camber? I have never seen a shop not do so, unless the camber change still left the toe within the acceptable range. Really depends on how accurate your shop is and what you are trying to achieve with them. Toe plates would work, but keep in mind that its only looking at the total toe, not individual toes, which means that the steering wheel might be lopsided, even though you are still going straight. Changing the toe on site, especially if you are going to measure as well takes up a considerable amount of time to do so accurately, something I would not recommend doing on site. Toe is really up to driver preference and how the rest of the car is setup. Many are happy with 0 toe and using the other adjustments to turn the car in. Others like to run 1/4" toe out. Some also just toe out the rear instead to rotate the car, and keep the front tame.
 
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