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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello to all reading this thread. I am setting this up as a way for friends & co-workers to keep an eye on my build. I have been helping people out in this community for a bit just as I received help pertaining to VAG. This thread is in no way a fashion statement nor is it meant to keep up with the latest trends. If your one of those idiots that hasn't tuned,built,fabricated or shown any amount skill & ingenuity but love to make dumb remarks ....please refrain from posting idiotic statements in here.

Info on me; professional wrench-er (was Ase certified but lapsed)
usually a problem solver
proud father & husband

Info on cars; 2004 vw gti 1.8T
1995 vw golf 2.0 (will set up build thread on this at a later time)

This car started as a daily commuter with the intention of modifying it through time when $$$ allowed. In the past I've owned vdubs like gti 16v's, 2.0's. Ownership was brief due to my penchant for NOS bottles & speed (figure out the outcome). Even owned a turbo volvo that was really tweaked. Even though I still work on the newer cars, there is nothing like building up an older car & marrying it with newer technology to go faster.

Even though its been a long time coming, Im finally here to post past incarnations (along with regrets) of this vehicle along with current set-ups.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Car started out decent. For some reason I decided to go with a ATP eliminator kit (I know, I know....please stop the bashing:banghead:) power was ok, then decided to go with APR for a flash tune....better I guess.


did a couple of deletes & got a eurojet intercooler system



 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
As time progressed & I had more available time between customers/work/home ownership duties & life in general....I refined/cleaned up the bay a bit more. After nearly losing my engine due to a faulty timing belt tensioner, replaced belt & water pump.



 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
After a period of time I became "dis-enchanted" with this set up, so onto the next set-up. Changed out the turbo housing & set up an external waste gate with manual boost controller. All of this on GT2871R. Also had exhaust mani/turbo exhaust side & 42DD exhaust ceramic coated for heat.


 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Still more time went by & decided to change things up a bit again (isn't that always the stifled statement) Had to start cutting/drilling/welding a couple of items to suit my needs. Along with routine & not so routine maintenance R&R



 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
After yet another change up, realized that even though you can mig weld exhausts, I needed to learn how to tig weld. Also got acquainted with Marty over at Raxles after installing a few of his axles in customers cars. I set myself up for a set for my car. Also started planing for the next set up after realizing how tight the rear/lower area of engine was (as can be seen in 3rd pic which is under rear of engine). As you can see in the last pic.....it never ends!:banghead: I had to cut off the exhaust flange & re-weld it to the angle/position I needed.




 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yet more maintenance, cam chain tensioner R&R, valve cover gasket set.....keep it moving during winter! This pic should've been posted during the first/second turbo incarnation but wanted to post it anyway.

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
All this ultimately brings us to where she is now. I eventually settled for eurodyne maestro for my car after about a year of research on tuning systems for the 1.8t. I actually rented dyno time after "butt-dyno-ing" this car & logging. I ultimately ended with 310hp along with genesis 415cc injectors. Also switched out the fpr a few times til I was happy with pressure (4, 4.5 & 5 bar). Ran like this for over a year until last winter. Unfortunately I ran too hot under boost, blew the stock head gasket, turned exhaust valves white beyond my belief & had lovely "puffs" of white smoke coming from my exhaust. So parked her up & began assembling parts needed for a good build. Mind you the internals have remained stock all this time & no issues with rods or pistons.:)

Set up a purchase of eagle h-beam rods, wiseco pistons & rings (had them coated with ceramic on top & anti-friction on sides), arp main studs/head studs/cam shaft bolt/crankshaft bolt/rod bolts, calico crank journal/thrust rod bearings,IE crank gear, IE manual timing belt tension set-up, super tech valves/seats/springs/retainers, AEB head, gates racing belt (again), AWP cam gear, HEMI 80MM throtle body, 034 motorsport fuel rail & intake manifold, snow performance water/meth system, USRT 500cc & (2sets) of 1200cc injectors, older PAGparts gt3071R turbo set up, stainless steel braided brake lines, deatchwerks 265 drop in fuel pump, -6 an fittings & hoses, wire harness, and a few other items I can't remember off the top of my head at this moment.





 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
After late nights & flood lights working this winter in my garage, I can truly say I know what it is to appreciate a heated garage ( I don't have one )
began assembling the engine after machine shop took care of the boring for me. crank was pitted so the journals needed to be cut as well. AEB head was ok.




 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Did I forget to mention this build was cursed somehow. Well now, onto the crud! One late night after work & visiting a customer to deal with his trailblazer, I came home. I pretty much finished assembly of the short block. I just needed to install IE crank pulley & front crank seal. One thing led to another with my son crying & waking up, I lost track of my steps & ran to check on my son. After putting him to sleep, eating dinner & returning to the garage....I installed the crank gear. Torqed new Arp bolt & proceeded to check my work.:banghead::banghead::banghead: Found crank front seal wasn't installed. Had to remove gear. after removing crank bolt I couldn't remove the damn gear. tried everything I could at 3am. tried pry-bars, gear pullers, heat...everything I could. My last resort was using a 3 leg puller that utilizes a bolt in the center. It worked but destroyed the threads inside the crankshaft. Mind you I already spent $$$ on this crankshaft to turn it down + the calico coated bearings were already sized over & no returns were accepted after signs of use (like I said everything on the short block was installed & cycled a few times with assembly lubes). At this point its late (or early morning depending on how you see things), I went to the bar in the basement & had a few shots. Came back into garage with camera in hand. Deburred & dressed up damaged areas all to install front crank seal to asses extent of damage.

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Once over my frustration, called Cassidy @IE to talk to him about the dilemma. Got some info as far as tolerances & metallurgy. Spoke to a couple of engine builders @ work & local. They all suggested installing a coiled insert ("heli-coil") into the crankshaft. I know it has been done to big block Chevy's before, but these were naturally aspirated engines. I was building a engine to take on turbo boost/stress. I actually needed to be convinced by one the guys who works out in Long Island. He drove in his Chevy big block ss with a supercharger & nitrous to work. Actually showed me pics of his shop installing a coiled insert into that same engine crank & then began "bragging & showing" his time slips. I figured If they can do it, I might as try it. I spoke to the guys over at "nutty company" , explained the situation, asked for items that could match or surpass my needs. They gave me time to research the companies products that they recommended. After getting off the phone with tech support from these companies, i ordered the needed items.

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Got together with a co-worker to get this chucked on a lathe & start the fun of working on forged metal. Try it some time & let me know how many curse words you let out! Bet you cant beat my friend's count! It was finally done (after fabricating a stronger insert tool out of grade#8 bolt), the insert was installed & locked into the crankshaft. There were several attempts to remove it with failure on our end.:D Thanks Eric!
Once this was done. I torqued the arp bolt in place using IE's spec. Took it with no issues & IE's torque spec is not a "light" number for the crank bolt. Went home & installed everything back into the short block again. For reference, I witness marked the bolt head onto the crank pulley.
 
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