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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Mk4 AFP VR6 swap into CE2 MK2



I know I’m far from the first to do this swap, but when searching for info I came up with limited results.

I’m not going to go into detail on every step, just the big stuff that is different than an AAA mk3/Corrado/Passat VR6 swap. Mk4's are becoming affordable donors and are 10 years newer than most passats and corrados used for donors.

I picked up my donor for $2,000 with 55k.



Here’s what I found;

Hardware.

The AFP bottom end is the same as the AAA found in mk3’s, passat’s and corrados. I used mk3 VR6 mounts, which bolted directly to the AFP block.

I used BFI green stage 2 mounts in a mk3 2.0 subframe for the rear engine and transmission mount. I used a MMP solid mount on a g60 front cross member for the front mount. Due to clearance issues with the hood and to help level out the engine, I cut ½” off the rear engine mount.

Stock mk3 mounts should work fine though.





Downpipe.

The stock mk4 VR6 downpipe fits well. I used the single piece downpipe/cat style. Later styles are two pieces. I just had to cut a few inches off the post cat pipe to fit well with my TT 2.5” cat back exhaust.



Heater core.

This isn’t necessary to replace, but I like the mk4 style hose clamps better. The mk4 heater core fits in the mk2 heater box.





Tachometer.

Same as any other VR6 swap you can fool the mk2 cluster by doing the following;

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ing-a-VR6-tach-signal-work-with-a-Mk2-cluster!



Gauges.

For oil pressure and coolant temp you can use mk2 sensors in the mk4 housings. The mk4, like the mk2, has two coolant sensors, one for the ECU and the other for the gauges. Replace the mk4 gauge sensor with a mk2 sensor and use the mk2 wiring.

I chose not to use the oil gauges in the cluster because I ran out of room on the oil filter housing when I added VDO sensors for oil temp and pressure for my Duo Style gauges.





Transmission.

I used the mk4 02J transmission with mk3 mounts. I swapped the axle cups with mk4 02J TDI cups which are 100mm vs. the VR6 which are 108mm. This allowed me to use stock 100mm mk2 axles.



For linkage I used the mk4 02J shift box. With a little trimming of the tunnel and notching the shift box, it bolted together nicely.







Radiator/Condenser/Fans

I used all mk4 parts because I had them, but they are not necessary. You could use the normal corrado setup used in most VR swaps. I had to cut up the rad support and not use the lower rad support. I welded on supports on the sides that bolt to the condenser to hold it in place. These straps also 90 under the radiator and bolts to the front cross member. The whole setup is kinda like a mk4 rad support now.

The benefits are that the radiator and fans are larger than corrado and newer. The mk4 uses two electric fans. I used the mk4 fan control module and wired in an AC switch and an Aux fan switch. So now the fans turn on with the AC, by the temp switch, and/or by a manual switch.





This required notching the front cross member for the lower hose to go through. I haven’t decided if this was a good idea or not.







Speedometer.

The mk4 02J electronic speed sensors unscrews from the gear that goes into the transmission. A g60 speedometer cable screws right in and clips into the mk2 gauge cluster.

Throttle/pedals

I used the DBW mk4 setup. This has been done many times in the past and there is lots of info other there on it. I started with a g60 pedal cluster and cut off the throttle pedal.

G60 on left, mk4 on right


The mk4 pedal unbolts from the bracket. I cut the bracket off the mk4 cluster and welded it to the mk2 cluster.

And done



Brakes

I used mk3 2.0 knuckles, g60 rotors and calipers, dual drilled to 5x100 & 4x100. Rear disks.





And the normal g60 non abs master cylinder/booster/clutch master setup



Wiring.

I found the following here when looking for a mk4 VR6 ECU pin out.

This is for a 1.8t so some of the wiring and harnesses are different.

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.p...-wiring-1-8T-gt-Mk2-harness-install-FAQ/page2

My donor mk4 was a 99.5, so some of the later wiring may differ as well.

These are the wires to splice into the mk2 CE2 wiring

T6-brown connector
pin 1 -black or black/purple 15 amp fused switched live 15 to ecu T121/3 (g1 pin 4)
pin 2 - purple/white ecu T121/65 to fuel pump relay ground (g1 pin 3)
pin 4 - red/green 20 amp fused constant positive 30 to ecu T121/62 (Y pin 4)
pin 5 - blue/yellow fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay (g1 pin 10)

T10 - 10 pin connector near battery
pin 5 - red/purple 10 amp fused switched live to injectors (183) ( Z/1)
pin 6 - yellow/black fused 10 amp from fuel pump relay (g1 pin 8)
pin 7 - brown ground (204) (197) (Ground to chassis or battery)
pin 9 - brown/white earth for senders (G1 pin 6)

T10G - Green connector
pin 4 - white/red ecu T121/39 to clutch pedal switch (Clutch pedal switch in car) (I didn’t do this as I used the mk2 starter wiring)

T10 Orange
pin 1 - grey/white to ecu T121/43 (229) ( diagnostics K diag port)
pin 6 - blue/white ecu T121/54 to speed signal in dash wiring (Hall speed sensor on clocks W pin 1)

No modifications needed on the Blue connector for the drive by wire pedal setup.

And here is a spreadsheet I made of the mk4 ECU pinout double check everything. The PDF can be down loaded here: Will host on dropbox and add link later



And the mk4 Bentley can be downloaded here. Right click, save as only: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4387578/Vol....Official.Factory.Repair.Manual.1999-2005.pdf

I ran all the wires by the heater lines and put the ECU in the rain tray. This allowed no modification of the mk4 harness from the ECU to the engine. I ran all the other wires through the rain tray, though the wiper harness hole and to the fuse box.

I’ll add more pics of that here later.



And done.



Thanks to all those who answered my questions along the way :thumbup:
 

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Hard to believe this thread just fell off. Lot of good ideas and craftiness going on here.

Mk4's make great donor cars because they haven't all been beat to death like Corrados and Passats.

The DBW throttle body will bolt up to an OBD2 AAA manifold, if you want to run the later management on an old motor. Use the mk4 cam position sensor or swap out the plug pigtail.

Atwood @ United has IMMO defeat software and can code out emissions equipment for "off road" use.
 

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FV-QR

can you a drive by cable Tbody with the MK4 stuff? the DBW stuff always has felt laggy over the DBC stuff
 

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can you a drive by cable Tbody with the MK4 stuff? the DBW stuff always has felt laggy over the DBC stuff
There is or was a kit available to convert one of the 1.8T engines to DBC. Unitronic? Never seen anything for 12V's.

The yellow car is DBW and I hadn't noticed any lag or sleepiness in the throttle. I daily a B4 wagon so it would have to be pretty bad to get my attention.

Like ratdub posted, an ECU flash (I like United) will sharpen up throttle response. There is also a module that plugs into the pedal harness, supposed to speed up the throttle body opening / closing without throwing fault codes. I think ECS sells them
 

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FV-QR

Neat. ive never driven a car with any kinda tune to adjust the throttle response. only comparison i have is a DBW and DBC MK4 2.0. the DBC stock for stock is MUCH more responsive
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Over the holidays I was able to get some work done.

Re-did the trunk setup



And added a raceland header with a TT highflow cat. I cut off the supplied flanged and added a flex section and v-band. This fits much tighter than the stock mk4 downpipe and cat.





 

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Damn, those 'drops look good. :thumbup:


fyi, AFP is the same as an AAA. Everything that bolts to the long block makes it an AFP. They also come in some 99.5 MK3's. Definitely a good starting point due to the lower mileage from a newer engine. I have an AFP in the stash.

Great friggin idea on notching the subframe for the hose. I need to do that for my MK3 VR rad.


Thank you for the motivation...im going in the garage now :)
 

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Almost. The rear main seals are different.

Early AAA motors are not the same as the AFP. Early AAA motors do not have the drilled and tapped bosses on the side of the head liket he AFP motors do. You can use any AFP block and head in place of an AAA block, but not vise versa.
 
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