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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have had this trouble since I began driving the car. If it sits mroe than a few days without driving it the battery goes dead. I put in a new battery and it still happens. Is there any way to 100% turn off the alarm system ?
 

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B5 A4 2.0 Stroker, 2016 VW Touareg
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I have had this trouble since I began driving the car. If it sits mroe than a few days without driving it the battery goes dead. I put in a new battery and it still happens. Is there any way to 100% turn off the alarm system ?
It's probably not the alarm system given that it barely draws anything. Your alternator or voltage reg is likely bad. You can test it while runnning you should get >13.6 volts
 

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As said, probably not the alarm. You'll need to do a parasitic draw test:
 
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Draining the battery to zero shortens its life.
Here's what I would do.
buy or borrow a battery maintainer and hook it up when you park the car at home
buy or borrow a digital multimeter (DMM) with an Ammeter function.
Store your radio presets
Disconnect the negative battery cable, connect the ammeter in series with the negative battery post and the negaive battery cable
Then you will know what the present current drain value is.
(I have no idea what the actual current value should be, but for sure the car should not be dead in a few days.
Get a clipboard, sheet of paper and a pen
Make a list of all of the fuses
Read and note the current number
pull the first fuse
note the new current number
continue with all of the fuses.

This should give you a strong indication who the offender is.

Luck,
fat biker
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The voltage drop test on all of the fuses at the end of the dashboard was inconclusive when I did it a few years ago. Also at the time the only fuse that made the amperage draw go to zero was one of the ones on the battery. I saw a half amp draw through it more than once but it seemed to be intermittent. It did not always have any draw. Sometimes it did and sometimes it didn't

Since then the radio died and it is a Monsoon with the amplifier and CD cartridge player in the trunk. Several months ago the radio speakers started making scratchy/popping sounds even with radio off and/or the key off and out of the ignition switch. It got louder and louder so I pulled the fuse for it. Put it back in a few days later and it never made the sound again. The battery problem predates the radio noise though. I'll try disconnecting the amplifier and cd player in the trunk to see if it changes anything.

More background. The drip tray at the bottom of the windshiield is in bad shape. The computer connectors and harness under it has gotten soaked in rain countless times but wet or dry does not seem to make any difference. While I'm asking ... the battery positive clamp does not seem to close tightly enough to keep the clamp tight on the battery post. Do these wear out or strtch making it necessary to replace them at some point ? It's been a while since I checked charging voltage but it was always good and the wipers lights heater fan and windows all seem to go as fast as they are supposed to if the engine is running or not. Unless the car has been sitting for a few days.

Is there only one fuse for the radio ?
 

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You're probably getting parasitic draw from the amp. The auto turn on/turn off doesn't work with aftermarket radios (DC voltage is applied through the front left speaker, and then grounded when the car is turned off).

Modify your amp for a manual turn on wire, or bypass it at the amp connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's not an aftermarket radio. I added the stock/optional cd player but the problem predates when I did that. I watched the video posted above and I was not latching everything as suggested when I did the voltage drop test on all the fuses. Also I was getting confused by how some fuses showed a voltage that suddenly went to zero. I'll have to go through testing all the fuses again with this new bit of knowledge.

The positive battery cable clamp has been an issue more than once. The battery seemed like it was dead and just by wiggling the battery cable suddenly it would start ok and restart for months like that. The clamp never felt loose afetr tightening the nut but the other day it was not clamped tightly onto the battery post ... which has occurred more than once.

I'd love it if the radio worked again. It sounded fantastic when it was working. At some point the reception slowly got worse and worse. Then the radio started turning itself off all by itself. Then it would not turn on anymore.
 

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The drip tray at the bottom of the windshiield is in bad shape.
Considering that typically only small part of the problems are evident and easily noticed, something tells me you are looking at a tip of an iceberg. Following.
the battery positive clamp does not seem to close tightly enough to keep the clamp tight on the battery post. Do these wear out or strtch making it necessary to replace them at some point ?
The clamp can be destroyed for example by stretching it when applying excessive torque on the nut that locks it. Also, the post and clamp mating surfaces are matching cones only when clamp is unlocked. So if you slide a locked clamp on a perfect lead cone then the clamp is going to grab the top of the post only on sides and make post oval in shape. The cone won't be a cone any more. This can happen when you try to install semi-torqued clamp on a new battery (for example during replacement). Similar thing can happen when you try to clamp on a cone that is too small because of corrosion - no mater how much torque you apply, it won't seat correctly. Both clamps have similar design but a negative cone is a bit smaller.

I cannot see how a clamp of this design could wear out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Its an OEM clamp. I always made sure the nut was loose when putting it on the battery so the clamp goes all the way down over the post. There is 1/16" or more of the post protruding up beyond the clamp. It seems to be stretched so it does not hold as tightly as it should. It may have been over tightened before I got the car. I may have to resort to replacing the clamp. Was hoping there is some well known fix for the clamp besides using a universal clamp or buying a new starter cable. I have a feeling once I get a solid battery positive post connection some of the other problems will go away ... hoping anyway.

This is the third battery it has happened to. The first was a used battery. The next two were both brand new. I was pulling the cable off if I knew I would not be using the car for a week or two. These last two times it killed the battery much quicker than before. Only a couple of days which surprised me.

Yes I agree this electrical system seems to have several issues. I re-soldered the driver's door lock module within the first year I owned it about 3 years ago. The latest gremlin was the trunk release stopped working yet I could hear the relay click. Suddenly one day it started working again.

Later this week I am hoping to get some time to look at it. All of you have given me plenty to go on. Thanks. I'll report back in a few days.
 
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