A big thanks to Dave for allowing me the chance to give these lines a trial fit!
I have had sufficient time to check these out and install them on my car. I am posting up a rough DIY with photos for not only Dave to use as he needs, but a guide for anyone in the future that purchases a set to install on their own car.
First off; my review. The lines themselves are very high quality. These are as good or better as any stainless braided I have used in high pressure/high heat applications. These are more than up to the task at hand. The crimp connections are very solid and quite smooth, indicative of high quality crimping equipment. These aren't some shade tree backyard crap, these are professional quality. The adapter fittings are as strong as feasible given the design parameters, machining work is top notch.
On to the install...
What you will need:
13mm wrench
9/16" wrench
5/8" wrench
T30 socket and ratchet
Small flat tipped screwdriver (1/8" blade or smaller)
Small hammer (6oz brad nailing hammer fits great)
Drain pan
Rags
Pentosin CH11F power steering fluid (I used a little under half a liter)
About an hour of your time
I was able to reach most of the fasteners and clips from the engine bay. Most of the reassembly was performed under the car however so make sure you safely jack your car up and place it solidly on jackstands. Don't die or seriously maim yourself due to rushing or the lack of proper equipment.
First of all, the lines and adapters
Mine being pre-production parts will probably look slightly different than production sets, but not terribly noticeable.
On to the car.
If you have a heat shield in place like I did, it needs to be removed. Its held in by one nut on the passenger side;
Seen in the upper left side of this photo. Remove the nut with a 13mm wrench.
Here is the nut as seen from under the car.
The shield is also held on by 3 bolts on the driver's side;
Seen here in the middle of the photo. Note the driver's side is up in this shot. Remove those 3 bolts with your 13mm wrench.
In this shot you can see 2 of the bolts on the driver's side as well as the retainer bracket that holds the existing hard lines to the orbital valve portion of the steering rack.
Wrangle this bad boy out
And you see the hard lines in all their glory
You can also see the clips that hold the other ends of the hard lines to the cylinder portion of the steering rack.
To remove these clips I simply took my small hammer and tapped on the corners where there is an obvious open end
This is what the clips look like. Remove them both on the cylinder end of the steering rack.
Take your T30 socket and ratchet and remove the retainer bracket and bolt from the valve end of the steering rack
As seen here remove the bolt and simply slide the bracket rearward to free it from the lines.
Grab your drip pan and place it under the steering rack/subframe. Pop the ends out of the holes in the cylinder end of the rack and swivel them rearward over your drain pan. Let them drain completely to keep messiness to a minimum. They will completely drain the system so grab a beer/soda and take a break.
Once everything is done dripping, pop the other ends of the tubes out of the rack.
They will look like this, give or take
As you can see 3 of my o-rings are still in the rack while 1 stayed on the tube while I removed it.
Use your small flathead screwdriver to remove any orings that remain in your rack. Just poke the tip through the center and gently lever to o-ring out of the hole.
Slide the o-rings on each of the new adapter fittings gently
Poke each of the fittings with o-rings in each of the 4 holes that you removed the hard lines from.
Connect the lines to each of the fittings, routing the lines to avoid touching the exhaust
Note that my lines are slightly longer than necessary and production units should fit nicer and not rest on the subframe as mine do.
Finger tighten the fittings after you have them routed how you want. Pop each fitting/adapter end out one at a time and tighten them. Use the 5/8" wrench to hold the adapter and tighten the fitting with the 9/16" wrench. Do NOT tighten them on the rack with just a 9/16" wrench, you WILL break the machined end of the adapter off into the rack. It will take patience and a little practice to get them tight without moving the line around on the adapter.
Once you have them all tight, reinstall the clips and brackets in reverse of how you removed them. Tighten the T30 bolt very snugly. Tap on the closed ends of the clips to get them back in place.
I left my heat shield off. The lines look too cool to cover up. If you want to reinstall the shield, you will need to trim around the hole where the bend from the original hard line protruded through the shield to fit over the new, larger adapter/fitting bend. Tin snips/dremel/grinder/whatever cutting tool you like to handle the job.
After everything is reassembled and to your liking, refill your power steering reservoir. I left my car on jackstands until I had bled all of the air out of the system. Simply start your car up and slowly rotate the steering wheel one direction until it reaches lock. Release the steering wheel and let it sit there for a moment. Slowly rotate the steering wheel the opposite direction to lock. Check the fluid level. Top off as necessary. Turn the steering wheel back and forth several times. When all the bubbles disappear from the reservoir you are fully bled. Lower the car safely to the ground and go for a short drive. Check for any leaks and adjust fittings as necessary.
