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71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)

GUM, and JYV are the transmission codes. European 6 speed manual gearboxes. over there they were available, as well as weren't limited edition iirc :thumbup:
Correct, even though they were not a limited edition model, the 6 speed transmission was still pretty rare to come by in the UK.
Was at the dealer for a while today trying to sort out some problems.
Ordered a breather for clutch hydraulic system. Fits on the end of the slave cylinder and connects to the hydraulic line that goes to the master. Ordered the piece over the phone and was the wrong one. When I told them it wasn't the correct one they looked up the part number and it was off a mk6, and turns out they had the correct breather in stock, so I took that one instead.
Next the bracket that holds the shifter box cables on the trans that was ordered was also wrong. Based on the holes on the trans we thought any old 6MT bracket would do.. That is not the case. Needed to order the bracket for mk5 R32 or a 6MT VR6. This part along with the transmission cover plate came from LA California, both parts were the last in this country. Those will be here early next week, and my VW tool should be here tomorrow or Monday. Once the tool arrives I will be taking the transfer case off my car and fitting it onto my transmission just to be 100% sure it will work. Once that is done I will be ready to start the swap one week from today.
After I get the last two parts and im sure the transfer case will work, then I'm confident I have everything now and everything will be a bolt up install.
Looking forward to the challenge and glad to see all the support.. :thumbup::laugh:

71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Check This Out

After a few hours of thinking how it could be done without looking off i finally figured it out.
Yes, i know the knob is facing the wrong way when it comes to the boot border that snaps into center console. Im getting a boot made, because when i bought this one it was trashed.
And yes i know that there's a tab broken off on the back of my shifter box.
Anyway, here it is

DSG knob on manual shift box :D
Fits onto the shaft just like OEM.. Uses the manual knob's fastening system with a little modification. :laugh:

1,488 Posts
That shifter is pretty obvious that it's not for a DSG. No shift indicator. DSG stamping makes it looks like the owner is too cheap to get a more appropriate shift knob :D.

Cool swap. Reminds me of when I went from a 4speed crawling transmission to a TH-400 auto trans in a 78 chevy shortbed 2wd 1/2 ton pickup I used to own. Due to being lighter, shorter gear spread, and B&M trans kit, the auto made the truck faster and more fuel efficient. Who the hell orders a 1/2ton shortbed with a crawler trans?

Any particular reason why you went with the 4R manual trans vs the 5R trans? Second gen mark 5 based Audi TT 3.2 was available with a manual trans here in the states.

71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
That shifter is pretty obvious that it's not for a DSG. No shift indicator. DSG stamping makes it looks like the owner is too cheap to get a more appropriate shift knob :D.

Cool swap. Reminds me of when I went from a 4speed crawling transmission to a TH-400 auto trans in a 78 chevy shortbed 2wd 1/2 ton pickup I used to own. Due to being lighter, shorter gear spread, and B&M trans kit, the auto made the truck faster and more fuel efficient. Who the hell orders a 1/2ton shortbed with a crawler trans?

Any particular reason why you went with the 4R manual trans vs the 5R trans? Second gen mark 5 based Audi TT 3.2 was available with a manual trans here in the states.
Cool sounding swap, and I bought a regular shift knob, but then cut it up and made it a dsg one :laugh: And for the price I got the transmission I couldn't argue. Plus it came from a mk5 R32 from UK, so there was no doubting if everything would be the same.

71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I just bought one with a bad motor, I have a 3.6 on the floor in my shop thinking about swap
If you decide to sell the bad 3.2 motor or the 3.6 let me know.. I'm looking into buying which ever one i get for good price.. Also depending on which one I get determines the projects to come :thumbup:

71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Swap Started

So my Dad told me I could use his beater car for the rest of the week and he will drive his car to work since the weather will be nice..
This gave me an idea..
Since he still needs to park his car in the garage. Ill just clean out the other side and stick my car there ;) ..
So that's exactly what I did. Put all my parts in my dads parking spot too, so I had room to work.. Picture is a little blurry, but you get the point.

Anyway, First off I disconnected the battery which is in the trunk under the black plate:

Turns out the battery is submerged in water, and the bolts used to hold the cover on are triple square but I found that a T40 takes them off perfectly fine.

Anyway, disconnect the battery and close the trunk..
NOTE: Place something over lock to prevent it from locking.. it wont unlock with no batter connected.. I know from experience.
Now.. Remove your air box or COI, which ever you have to allow more room for work on top. The automatic trans has an external cooler which needs to be bypassed..
Follow the two hoses coming out of the cooler, one goes right up to a hose (6 inches away) the other goes to a metal pre bent tube that connects to the bottom coolant hoses.
Bottom coolant hose connects here:

Un-do the T piece by clamping the two hose that run straight trough. Undo the trans cooler hose and let the coolant run into a bucket. I bought a connector from Advance Auto to connect the two hoses. Once this is done you can unbolt a bracket on the side of the trans and finagle the metal tube out the bottom.
The top has the exact same set up. I just didn't take a picture of the t pipe or the cooler.. Once you put the connector in the two hoses, you can take out the cooler.. Three triple square bolts hold it on.. Don't remember the size. Should look like this with the lines bypassed and cooler out.

Next I took the drive side wheel well out, and took the axle's out of both sides. To get axle out you take the nut of the front, take off the bottom three ball joint bolts, take out the sway bar link bolt and the tyrod end. Probably don't need to take every one of those out but it just makes for a way easier job.
Sorry for blurry picture:

There are four hangers on the rear part of the exhaust. I popped the hangars off and took the bracket that goes across the rear part of tunnel, then lowered the rear of the exhaust down to the floor. Disconnected the drive shaft bolts in the front and rear, then took out the center support for the drive shaft.. Looks like a cover but, there is a bracket under it. From there the plan was to slide the drive shaft back and out the rear of the car.. Found out the part that bolts to transfer case would not fit in between the two down pipes.. So in order to get the bolts out of the down pipe the transfer case had to be unbolted to allow for different angles in order to get the bolts out. There are four bolts on the transfer case and a 6mm allen in the center of where the passenger axle bolts to.. This 6mm allen needs a special VW tool that I got for $14.

This picture you can see the top two transfer case bolts.
Once the transfer case bolts were out and was able to move slightly, the exhaust bolts were able to be removed. Three Nuts per down pipe.
Once they were out we noticed the O2 sensors were getting pulled.. So we traced the wires and there was a bracket the wires went to in the engine bay, next to the brake reservoir. We un clipped the plug on one side and couldn't get the plug on the O2 sensor side, so we just took the bracket off with two bolts.. Then fed the bracket and wires down to the pipes.. Pulled the pipes towards the back of the car along with drive shaft, then pulled the drive shaft out and put it to the side. Once that was done we layed the pipe on an upside down oil bucket so the bottom O2 sensors wouldn't have to be un plugged. We moved it as far to passenger side as it could and it wasn't in the way so we left it.

Next time for the shifter box to be installed.
In order to take the heat shield off that's in the tunnel you need to undo these "star" fasteners. (stole this picture off the internet by the way.. Didn't take a picture of mine)

They are the biggest pain to remove. They unscrew to come off but press on when you re install.
Once all are removed the heat shield will not come down because the two plastic covers on each side overlap the metal shield. there are plastic "bolts" that should just unscrew by hand when you have a socket on it. Loosen the ones closest to each side of the shield until the plastic part falls down allowing for the heat shield to come straight down revealing the bottom of the shift box.

Once the shield is removed make your way into the car and take out the two rear nuts that hold the automatic shift box in place.. Also remove the clip that is attached to the dsg shift box.

Clip is on the left above my finger.. Wire goes into the carpet.
There is a bracket above the front nuts that the center console bolts onto. Remove the nuts, then bracket then the shifter box nuts. Hold the shifter so it doesn't just hit the ground. Lower it and have someone grab it or just reach your arm through and place on the ground.

Next have someone put the manual shifter box up and tighten it down.

Now time for the trans removal :D
Put a jack under the oil pan of the engine and another under the trans.. You will need to raise/lower one or the other multiple times in order to get the trans out without removing the sub frame.

Can see the flywheel starting to poke through.
After some more time and wiggling..

Then we checked to make sure the flywheel would bolt up.. Using the old flywheel bolts we just put the manual one on to make sure.

Worked just fine..
Then we checked to make sure the transfer case bolted went on.

It did.
That was all the time we had for today. So we put the tools back, and made room for my dad's car.

Tomorrow the plan is to change brake pedal, install clutch pedal, install trans, put heat shield under car back on, connect drive shaft and exhaust, and go for test drive.. Hoping to be done tomorrow so I can get ecu flashed if it doesn't want to work. The computer aspect will be all trial and error.. As of right now its like doing a clutch change with a little extra work. :laugh:

71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Swap Finished

First off, these are some of the things that were bolted to the transmission/ needed to be removed in order to remove the old trans.

This is the clip that is needed for the dsg in order for it to work.
This is the MAF sensor and clips for the O2 sensors.

Then there's this, which was bolted with a bracket to the side closest to the radiator.

There was also covers and clips near or on the transfer case that I did not picture.. Just keep an eye out for them and you will see them.

Now for the swap:
First I installed the clutch pedal, which was a PAIN! Then I changed out the brake pedal, which was worse. In order to get the things out I was in that car all different kinds of ways.. Upside down sideways.. You name it.
Once that was in, My dad and I started on the trans. Torqued the flywheel. 60nm plus a 1/4 turn stretch, and then installed clutch plate and pressure plate. Pressure plate gets torqued to 22nm.
Once that was in it was time for the trans to go in..
Using similar tactics that we removed the trans with, we managed to get the new one in place and bolted up.

I then installed the trans mount and worked on getting the bracket that holds the shifter cables in place on the trans. I swapped out the rubber bushings to "42 Draft Shifter Bushing" from UroTuning.

Once that was done I bolted it up up inserted the shifter cables. Then adjusted the shifter linkage so that all the gears and reverse worked. Then installed the hydrolic line that went from the master to the slave.

In order to get the hydrolic line that goes from the reservoir to the master you attach the end to the master then CUT the tab off the end of the nipple on the reservoir, so you dont squish the end of the nipple with cutters. (stole this pic off the internet and used paint)

Fluid should start to come out, so just snap the hydraulic line over the nipple.
Then we bled the clutch
Now we bolted the transfer case onto the transmission. NOTE: we slid the transfer case in and had it laying on the subframe before we put the trans in to avoid having to drop the sub frame.
The four main bolts went in fine.. BUT of course problem occurred when we went to put the small allen that is inside the case.

(Stole this picture off the internet)
The allen didn't feel like it threaded in at all.. We took the transfer case off and the allen threaded into the part on the trans. After about two hours of trying different tactics to get the bolt to fit. We measured the length of splines on the old and new trans. The Manual trans had longer spline length by about half an inch. So the bolt would have to be about a half inch longer. Also the T case was only going on 75% of the way on splines. Which isn't the end of the world (will explain later).
Anyway. We bolted the T case back on, re installed the drive shaft, and axles. Bolted everything back up and put the exhaust back up in place.
Went to go put the starter in and noticed problem number 2. Which turns out to not be too much of a problem.
The bolts from the automatic transmission's started was too thin. So we decided to just leave the starter off for the day. I will get the correct bolts tomorrow.
Put the intake on in a temporary set up.

Put wheels back on and lowered the car back down.

Rolled it back out of garage and bump started the car in reverse.. Only to find that we only "placed" the exhaust pipes and bolts. We forgot to tighten the 6 bolts holding on the down pipes.
Now for the real test.. Driving it back 6 ft up the driveway back into the garage..
Spoiler alert. It drove up fine.
Bolted on the exhaust and bump started it again.. This time not to only drive back into the garage..

Drove perfectly.
No problems with shifting, or lack of power.
Engine code was U0101 which was "Lost Connection With Transmission Control Module".
This was to be expected as was having no traction control.
Now to bring back the little allen that we did not have the correct size for and the splines not going on 100%
The little allen needs to be put in in order to drive the car normal. Because fluid will leak out the hole slowly and leak out by the axle boot. But the splines have enough meat to fit and operate. However that might not be the case with a turbo kit.
Therefore I need to get in touch with DEVIANT again and try to track down the correct transfer case.. But until then I will be getting that little allen and will be driving and enjoying my new manual R :thumbup:
Tomorrow ill be taking it easy and driving a few seconds away to my old teacher's at my high school and put the car up on lift, double check everything, install the plastic covers that did not go on today as well as change the lowering springs back to stock. Bought the car with them on and it makes the car drive terrible. I will also take my dads car and go get the bolts that I need. :peace:
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