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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just did this and wanted to share my experience with everyone. This was my first oil pan replacement and I wasn't all too sure on how to tackle it. Searching didn't provide any really useful information so I figured Ill put one of these together to help out the next guy in need :thumbup:

Disclaimer: I am not a professional mechanic and my training never went further then my HS Auto Shop Class :D I am not responsible for any damages to you or your car that may happen while performing this. This is simply a reference guide, please follow all safety procedures and perform at your own risk.

Time frame:
Took me about 2 hrs, thats with running back and forth to get different things from the house :D Can be done in well under an hour if you have done this type of thing before :thumbup:

Tools needed:
Metric socket/ratchet set to undo the drain plug, loosen the oil pan bolts etc.
T25 Torx bit to undo the lower plastic heat shield.
T30 Torx to undo the oil pan bolts.
Jack stands or ramps.
Jack.
Towel or a rag to put under the exposed long block to prevent a mess.

Parts needed:
Oil pan.
Liquid oil pan gasket.
Oil level sensor cover (plugs up the hole in your new pan if your original dosent have one, mine didnt)

Oil pan part #


Cover part #


Complete package:


Raise up the car to a comfortable work height and put some wheel blocks under the rear
tires to prevent it from rolling. Nice weather or a garage is a plus but is not required :banghead:



After making sure the car is secured get under and remove the plastic heat shield using the T25 bit.



Here is the culprit.



Remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil, if you have any left, into your drain pan. You can reuse the oil if its fairly new or replace with new oil at this time. I reused the oil since its only about a month old. If your going to reuse it make sure your oil drain pan is clean of debris and oil sludge. Remove the oil fill cap on top of the engine to speed up draining. Let it drain for a good while to help avoid a bigger mess later.



After the oil is drained you can start to undo the oil pan bolts with a T30 bit. You only need to use the wrench to initially undo the bolts, afterwards they will turn by hand.



After all the bolts are out you can remove the pan. Make sure your towel is under the engine at this time as there will be oil dripping all over the place. You can try the rubber hammer route to knock the pan off and see if that works for you. It didnt for me, the pan was glued in place since my gasket was still pretty new. I ended up using my screwdriver to slowly help pry the pan off. I started at one of the ends right next to the transmission and was able to leverage the screwdriver against the pans edge and slowly pry it off. Take your time and be careful not to brake anything while attempting this. Here is whats under that pan.



Using a wire brush or the edge of your flat head screwdriver scrape the old gasket off the best you can. Dont have to get it all but the more you scrape off the better. Prep your new oil pan for install, tighten the drain plug and the sensor cover. When you apply the gasket make sure to spread it all the way around the pan and the bolt openings. I didnt take any pics of this but its pretty self explanatory.

Clean up the oil and gasket peaces off of the engine before you seat the new pan and hand tighten the screws. I read somewhere that your supposed to tighten them in a criss cross pattern so thats what I did. Using you socket wrench and your T30 bit tighten all the bolts now. Dont overdo it here, its really easy to strip those oil pan bolts if you apply too much force. After you tighten all 20 of the pan bolts, made sure the oil drain plug is tight and the cover bolts are tight it should look like this.



Now is a good time to add the oil and check for leeks. If all looks good replace to lower heat shield and lower the car. I read somewhere that your not supposed to drive for 10 to 12 hours while the gasket is curing so thats what Im gonna go with just in case.
 

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nice

Good job...how much did you save doing it yourself? Most VW's I've looked at are very hard to remove bolts at tranny...but all the bolts look like you can get to them. I like how the pan is metal on the bottom and aluminum above that, and also baffled.

Were you lowered or hit a rock?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good job...how much did you save doing it yourself? Most VW's I've looked at are very hard to remove bolts at tranny...but all the bolts look like you can get to them. I like how the pan is metal on the bottom and aluminum above that, and also baffled.

Were you lowered or hit a rock?
thanks :beer:

all the bolts are exposed and very easy to get at with an extension. my local dealer quoted me $500 for the job so i figured ill give this a try myself. prolly would be allot less at an indy shop.

my car is lowered and normally im pretty careful with it. i had a dumb moment and went too fast in the snow, slid into my turn in and got hung up on a curb. my bumper somehow jumped the curb and seems fine, the oil pan ended up stopping the car :facepalm:
 

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good catch. unfortunately i did not make the same observation so i didnt touch that part at all. the oil pan did not come with that replacement part either :banghead:
You do not have to replace it, just as long as you cleaned out all the pieces that were about to fall off.

I noticed it because my sister had a Mk3 2.0. The oil pan was not hit, but that plastic somehow deteriorated, broke apart and clogged the path to the oil pump(i think where the wire mesh is pictured).

The car fan fine when cold, but threw a low pressure warning and sounded like the engine was toast when warm. When warm, we could hear the oil pump sucking air so we dropped the oil pan to replace the pump and noticed parts of that plastic in pieces. We cleaned out all the plastic we could find put fresh oil and filer then the engine ran strong again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You do not have to replace it, just as long as you cleaned out all the pieces that were about to fall off.

I noticed it because my sister had a Mk3 2.0. The oil pan was not hit, but that plastic somehow deteriorated, broke apart and clogged the path to the oil pump(i think where the wire mesh is pictured).

The car fan fine when cold, but threw a low pressure warning and sounded like the engine was toast when warm. When warm, we could hear the oil pump sucking air so we dropped the oil pan to replace the pump and noticed parts of that plastic in pieces. We cleaned out all the plastic we could find put fresh oil and filer then the engine ran strong again.
Thanks that's good to know. I didn't realize there was any damage until you pointed it out, otherwise I would have cleaned it up some. Hopefully it hangs tight for a while, otherwise ill pull the pan next oil change and clean it up :banghead:
 

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Thanks for the info :beer:
I might have to do this to my MKV TSI soon.

BTW all of the picture links are broken now.
 

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James Steed
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12,201 Posts
Need to change my oil pan because the dealership cross threaded my oil pan. And now they want $500 to replace the pan. I guess that's one way to get money out of those free services. The best part is they told me "we have to remove the subframe to replace the oil pan that's where the 2 hours of labor comes from". I just laughed and said thanks I'll go elsewhere.

So does anyone have the torque specs for the oil pan bolts?

Thanks
 

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James Steed
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12,201 Posts
I'm replacing my oil pan right now, but cant get the 2 inside bolts on the side closest to the tranny out. i don't have a straight shot at their head. any tips or tricks?

other than that all is beautiful
I didn't have any problems with that. Do you have a DSG or manual?

The biggest problem I had was getting the pan off once all the bolts were out. That took close to an hour. Good luck with that part. Lots of prying and pulling and then I was able to get things moving easier with a putty knife that I cut the rest of the sealant/gasket to break the seal.
 
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