VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I now own my very own 08 R32, have always loved the cars. Drove five hours, from NC, for the purchase. 155k on it with the dsg. Car was obviously not perfect and the only obvious mods was a set of coil overs and a set of badly scarred detroits. Car had a couple of weak starts while I was evaluating but it had been sitting a while and cranked quickly and as it should with a jump box. So I made the purchase and set out in the newly falling snow for my journey. Car ran strong with no issues for three and a half hours including two stops. About an hour and a half from home the battery light came on but there was no change in drive ability. A bit later the abs and traction control lights came on. Followed by the steering indicator. This was all followed by the transmission going in and out of gear as I limped off the interstate. Transmission continued to act as if it was in neutral and would not shift into gear. I later was able to jumpstart the car using cables but it immediately died when the leads were removed. Eventually tucked my tail and called a tow truck. The battery was new but I don’t think it would’ve last that long if the alternator was completely bad. Just trying to see if there’s any extra knowledge you guys can share. Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok glad I’m not alone, was worried there were other contributors. Everything I’m seeing says a 120 should do the trick but they offer a 90 and a 140. Would there be any advantages to go with the 140?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
No do the oem 140amp for certain. If you under current you can slowly start depleting batteries under high load. (6 cyl ignition at high RPM esp, fuel pump, Hids, wipers, radio, etc) it slowly results in battery losing charge but over a long period (year) meanwhile weird things start to happen like random misfires you don't really notice but are in vcds, hard starts, sensors failing, and it becomes this hair pulling diagnostic triage that never ends. If you look at ECS for instance the OEM alt is 140amp. If you add a sub, aftermarket fuel pump or new/different/auxiliary interior lighting etc you will definitely have problems. Do not skimp.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
I can't say 100% but in my case it behaved that way too. My guess is sensors or circuits dropping power and losing state. My symptoms were random misfires, random engine quits due to fuel pump being messed up from under voltage/under current, wouldn't start (failed speed sensor), random shifts / delayed or no shifts, flickering headlights, hard starts, and systems slowly turning off one by one.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89,647 Posts
Definitely sounds like the alternator.

I'd also replace the battery as mentioned above. Once you replace everything, run it through VCDS and clear all codes. See what comes back up after you've cleared all the codes.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top