Well basicaly after hearing a funky tick and grind coming from behind the front right wheel i decided to diagnose it. Took off the surpantine belt to run just the motor and guess what, all that noise was coming from the crank pulley and now i'm very upset with it.
I've come up with 2 reasonable answers to it
1- the rod pin thingy dingy (brendan told me about that)
2- crank shaft bearings
Soooooo, what do you guys think?
if i do need a rebuild, can i have some forged light weight parts please?
well it is only between 2-3k rpm and there is no squeeking @ all, there are a couple different types of rapid ticks happening (rpm depending). sometimes it sounds almost like the sound of a bad alternator bearing, or a bad waterpump. To be even more specific, the noise comes exactly from the crank and rear part of the motor by the crank pulley.
RedfufuG60 and i tried to pin point the noise yesterday, and we found it to be coming from the crank pulley area. We don't know if its the crank bearing, or something deeper inside the motor. Regardless, the engine makes the noise in idle and when under load.
I'd pull the belts off the engine and try turning the waterpump pulley by hand. You'll know if its bad when you do this. I doubt there are problems with the crank's bearings but maybe you've spun a rod bearing.
It's your Rod Bearings you know those "shells"!!!!!
Mine had exactly the same prob at the same Rpm when hot,the G60 engine is too noise cold,and at cold he oil is still thick enough to fill the gap between the crank and the Rod, buy the Kit that consists on the 8 rod shells part nº 034 105 701 007 and these come with centre hole for better oil passage!!!!!
On saturday or maybe sooner, the oil pan's gonna get ripped off for further diagnosing.
vedder, if the problem is the rod bearings, could they be replaced from the bottom of the car, or does the motor have to be pulled out?
I'd check the waterpump pulley first then pull the pan. To do the rod bearings all you have to do is remove the pan, and oil pump splash gaurd. You'll need new rod bolts and bearings. Its not that difficult care should be taken to not sratch the crank. 99% of the people recommend new bolts. I've reused them with no problems. Frank
it's not the waterpump pulley, I checked that already. I got a new timing belt tensioner and i'ma change it in a couple of hours, my mechanics incisted that it's the tensioner even though I don't think that it's the problem but we'll see i guess.
If i have to change any of the bearings, rod or crank-shaft ones, I'm remachining the crank before the new bearings go on, otherwise i'll be risking awkward wear on the new bearings and on the crank shaft
No the engine stays in the car, and yes please buy new bolts ,i dont think you wanna open the damn engine again, just because of some minor $$$$ ,the job in my car was done at the dealer ,and they used new bolts. if you can get ARP bolts ,but i think that stock ones do fine. theres a complet procedure at Corrado-club USA. but dont be fooled by people saying that the rod knock only occurs at lower rpm, mostly it's between 2000 and 3000 rpm!!!
I ran my car for 6 months with knocking rod bearings, including three trips on track days!
When I got in there rods 1 and 2 had already been treated to new bearings( date stamped on them) rod 3 had been inspected and put back and rod 4 was long gone.
I know that someone was in there because the ends of the bolts on 1,2 and 3 had been marked.
I had to reuse the bolts as I had no new ones. I thought that I would be the first to pull the sump and the Bentley says that it's ok to reuse the bolts once, hence the marks. Anyway there has been no bad noises since and that includes another trip to the track and a run on the rollers.
I have new bolts and nuts sat in my garage waiting for warmer/drier weather. I have a guy in the machine shop at work making a tool to press out the old bolts, so I won't break anything with a hammer.
My bearings looked a lot like Vedders, the ones nearest to the oil pump were in the worst condition, they were the oldest according to the date stamp.
There was no damage to my crank and the car has run with no trouble for 3 months since I changed the bearings. FINGERS CROSSED AND RABBIT FOOT IN POCKET
These engines can take some beating, so unless the knocking is making you wince, I'd just drive normally til you get the bearings done.
well I took off the oil pan last night, took appart the rod bearings, feel inspected the wrist pins and slapped it all back together a couple hours later. This is what I found:
a few metal shavings in the oil, nothing too siginificant. All rod bearings looked ok with just minor lines on them from normal wear to rods. wrist pins seemed to hold everything in place pretty tightly. Took a good look into the cylinder walls with attention to any piston slapping, and yet there was nothing, but perfect mirror surfaced walls. the only thing left uninspected was the crank bearings and that's because i did not have new bolts to replace the old ones, I know that those things stretch when they're on there so I didn't wanna risk it and put them back in.
I'm confused, the noise is there and it's annoying, the internals of my motor are super duper clean and nothing is obvious which leads me to think that if there is a problem it's barely to any cignificance. Now i'm thinking about buying new crank bolts and checking that part of the motor too.
Any ideas anyone?
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