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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I bought this Jetta in the Fall of 2014, one owner 1.8t. Drove it home from Boston and had a blast. Coming from a NA Corrado VR, I was really impressed with the power and torque, my love for boost had begun.:banghead: A pic from the PO of the Jetta in its prime:



Had some maintenance to take care of, downpipe and cat were shot, and the turbo seals were bad:



Got a 42DD 3"DP and cat, got the F23 rebuilt, and added a chinafold exhaust manifold, thanks Doug!

So now the car passed inspection and was running good. My original thoughts were to buy a Corrado shell and transfer the engine and transmission over to have a track Corrado, but sometime while working on and driving the Jetta it sank it's fangs into me and I really began to like the car. After all, it's more accommodating for tall people, and someone can actually fit in the back seat. I began researching suspension mods for the car because it handled like crap, and was happy to find most TT/R32 parts were bolt on.:)

So last summer I focused on suspension. Put ground control/Koni sports all around.



TT rack, stiffened subframe, control arms and spindles.



So the car handled much better, and I got to take it to Dub Deliverance, what a blast.





So besides a proper tune what was still bothering me with the car was the amount of wheelspin in 1st and second. Even with 245s and a LSD third was the first gear I could get good traction, and that was only in dry weather. So I began researching AWD swaps, and picked up this:



And then I couldn't help myself and picked up this:



More to come...
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks for the interest.

So I got the R32 shell last fall, it was pretty stripped. Drove a little over an hour into New Jersey for it. It had sat in another members lawn for a year+ waiting for him to do a wagon swap. It was a NY car that had been stolen and totaled by the insurance company, it was real rusty. Rear pan was about the only remaining panel without rust holes. No engine or trans, just the haldex rear etc.. I wanted it gone before it snowed so I got to work stripping it.



Bench/porch tested the haldex, and it worked:)

[video]http://vid754.photobucket.com/albums/xx182/hoofman123/A2D4658C-0360-4284-90F9-8DB6C8123F8A_zpspcex38id.mp4[/video]

Then I got to drilling.

Then this fell out.





The infamous frame rail.



And about that time I ran across the TT for sale, so the R32 had to go.



I also found a TT transmission in northern NY, made the trip 4 hours each way. Was great except for the speed trap, that one cost me :banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Looks like you don't fvck around.
I like the title

Basic | 24v 04 GLI | #BuildCleanShìt
Thanks, not quite as creative as yours!


So just as I was finishing up pulling the rear pan out of the R I saw the TT for sale not too far from me. I didn't really need any of the parts, but I had some ideas and it was cheap. Again no engine or trans but there were a lot of other parts I could keep or sell to help fund my build.



I was thinking of using the leather seats to replace the cloth seats in my Jetta, but after thinking about it I really don't mind the cloth and the frames are totally different between the two so I decided if I could sell them I would, and I did.



Decided to hang on to the haldex since they are not worth much used and it couldn't hurt to have a spare. I was originally hoping to use part of the rear Jetta pan to fill in the gap left since the R pan and frame rail is shorter, but after looking at them both I decided it wouldn't work, they were just too different. Instead I cut the last 12" from the TT pan andframe rail and am hoping to use it since the contours are a good match with the R pan.



So by the end of February the TT had been stripped and made it's way to the scrap yard.
 

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Subscribed. Love these builds
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
By early March I had a pile of parts and wanted to get started. I didn't want to start cutting out the pan because I plan on using POR15 to treat the exposed metal and it needs to stay above 50 degrees at night for the stuff to work. I decided it would be good to start by swapping the trans. This way I would have a few weeks to drive it with the 02M and make sure there were no issues.

So up on jack stands it went. Ignore the engine bay, I have plans for it but probably not till next year.



Pulled the subframe, axles and spindles







By the end of the first day the trans, flywheel, PP and disk were out. Old 02J and 02m



Started the second day, put in the new flywheel disk and PP and had this



No bueno!

I had picked up a new Sacks SRE PP and disk from another member. It was for an R32 and I was figuring it would work in my 02M also, but the crank pattern isn't the only difference between the R32 and 1.8t flywheel. It seems the clutch indentation on the r32 flywheel is deeper than the 1.8t, causing the springs on my PP to go in too far.

So I pulled off the SRE, put it back up for sale and ordered a OEM Sachs TT PP and disk. I really wanted a SRE since it's an upgrade over OEM, but didn't want to spend the extra money since I wasn't sure how quickly the SRE would sell.

The rest of the day I spent pulling any rusty brackets, and either painting them or POR15ing them



 

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Discussion Starter #17
Did you brush or spray the por-15? Just ordered that stuff and will be using it for the first time. I've heard good things about it.

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I have always used a brush, it self levels and you don't see the brush strokes. Don't use a real cheap brush, brush hairs are a bitch to get out :banghead: I follow the process to the T and use 2 coats. If I use it on real smooth new/shiny metal or over existing undercoating, I sand it lightly first. So far it has worked real good for me. Also use safety glasses, I got a drop in my eye once, holy **** that hurt and my eye was red for days. The label recommends going to the ER!
 

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:popcorn:
 

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I have always used a brush, it self levels and you don't see the brush strokes. Don't use a real cheap brush, brush hairs are a bitch to get out :banghead: I follow the process to the T and use 2 coats. If I use it on real smooth new/shiny metal or over existing undercoating, I sand it lightly first. So far it has worked real good for me. Also use safety glasses, I got a drop in my eye once, holy **** that hurt and my eye was red for days. The label recommends going to the ER!
What grit do you sand it with to scuff it. I'm planning on doing my subframe. I have a paint strip wheel for my angle grinder that I was going to use to clean it up and get down to bare metal. POR-15 doesn't need to be laid on top of primer? Are you sealing it with a clear too?

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Discussion Starter #20
What grit do you sand it with to scuff it. I'm planning on doing my subframe. I have a paint strip wheel for my angle grinder that I was going to use to clean it up and get down to bare metal. POR-15 doesn't need to be laid on top of primer? Are you sealing it with a clear too?

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Technically POR is only supposed to be used on bare/rusty metal, no primer, that has been treated with its cleaner and etcher. If I am using it on something small I remove all paint, rust and undercoat. When I did my subframe and trailing arm last year 80 percent of the subframe and arm had good undercoat. It was mostly rusted at welds and a few odd places. It seemed like a waste to me to take off perfectly good undercoat so I removed all the rust and surrounding areas with a wire wheel. Then I lightly hit the good undercoating to look for loose spots, sanded lightly with a fine grit, treated and PORed. It still looked good this year when I had the subframe off. If I wanted a real professional job I would have removed all the undercoat, but then I probably would have powder coated it, I was mostly looking to stop rust. You don't need any sealing unless it is exposed to sun which will break it down. You can paint over it though.
 
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