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78rabbit1.5LGP & 82rabbitpickup1.6DGC
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So ill start a photo gallery for my 1.6D 82 pickup...

bought in sad shape. got it running with a new head (pic later)
drove it for 1 month and melted the rod #1 bearing
the IM shaft bearings were toast, no oil pressure.









seems a lot of the in between photos are on my other computer
this is a clean, POR15, ready to install engine photo.
 

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78rabbit1.5LGP & 82rabbitpickup1.6DGC
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
round 2 putting the diesel back in

yes its an 11mm head bolt block from 1981.5 (1982)
yes i used ARP studs.



77.5mm pistons bored out. it was required.


the green is as close to original as possible
POR15 buick green engine enamel



^ incase youre wondering the engine + trans weighs about 220lbs without the head.

 

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78rabbit1.5LGP & 82rabbitpickup1.6DGC
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
a few more to keep you comming back...

this is the EURO SDI scroll/snail intake (mk5 BDK engine)
038129713BE
air adapter 028129637P w/ o-ring N90073301


^ the brass sleeves are for 11mm studs to spacer them for 12mm in the rear.
im using a 12MM head.
3 notch head gasket, i could have done 2 notch and been fine
the head protrusion was just slightly above 1 notch specs








several months later of driving
replaced the IP with a Giles pump.
the original IP was smoking badly, very badly. poor MPG.
no amount of fuel screw adjustment or timing would correct it.

 

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78rabbit1.5LGP & 82rabbitpickup1.6DGC
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
real caddy

so heres the general idea of what a daily driver diesel caddy should be capable of....





i dont think i took as many pictures as i should have
although this is only 10-12 pictures out of 100
many parts came from my 81 4 door 1.7L CIS

i replaced:
steering rack
brake booster
brake master cylinder
front brakes entirely
front axles
front spindles
rear brakes
90amp alternator
4 Castellete wheels. 14 inch
front suspension
rear shocks
new control arms, new control arm bushings
K-bar
Neuspeed upper strut tie bar

used good spec 1.6D crank
new 77.5mm pistons
new rod wristpin bushings
new crank bearings
new main bolts
new rod bearings
new ARP rod studs.
new IM shaft bearings
new ABA oil pump
rubber mk3 windage tray oil pan gasket
new oil pan

*i think the aba oil pump is causing an oil leak with my vane style vacuum pump*
 

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Nice work

I dig the SDI intake, I ran my mtdi without a turbo and loved it,
loved it more boosted though,

keep up the hard work, long live mk1
 

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78rabbit1.5LGP & 82rabbitpickup1.6DGC
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nice work

I dig the SDI intake
i love it also. compact, ez, perfect fit.
required for the G60 valve cover also. after attempt to try it with the stock 1.6D air intake and filter...
more than that i just wanted the SDI intake!
it may marginally be inefficient for the stock head but at ~52hp no one is going to notice
 

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Eight diesels of which five are MK1 VWs
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Nice to see your truck!

For those of you who don't know, Rabbitnothopper is one of the most knowledgeable and helpful folks on this forum. I will be watching this thread as I am guaranteed to learn something every time.
 

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78rabbit1.5LGP & 82rabbitpickup1.6DGC
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks guys!

all the vehicles in my signature are url links to the vwvortex threads :D


the interior is pretty much gutted. this was at first to do door repairs and lube the window guides
later i removed all the rubber on the windows...

the west texas desert of red iron clay sand had overtaken much of the vehicle
so until i get bitten by the bug to clean it up and it put it back
the doors and much of the interior remain removed...



other things on the table:

redo the glowplug wiring entirely with 4 wires and 4 fuses etc.
redo starter wiring with fancy starter relay
add the 81's headlight relay system to the pickup (removed from 81)


someday fix the AC compressor
redid all the o-rings in the bay for r134a, added proper sanden oil PAG? (i forget now)
the system only took 1/2 can of r134a and wouldnt guzzle anymore...
vacuum was pulled on the system and it held for 2 days
so.... gotta be the compressor is shot
with the compressor stuff all the wiring is toast for the compressor/clutch/everything. will need an entire rewire job


so just some basic work.
its a daily and "moar low" isnt the goal for me


the diesel is noisy
the diesel is slow
the diesel pull is unique
the diesel smell is great
 

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thanks guys!




the diesel is noisy
the diesel is slow
the diesel pull is unique
the diesel smell is great
I love the smell of Diesel in the morning..... makes my heart flutter....
 

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78rabbit1.5LGP & 82rabbitpickup1.6DGC
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
fuel tank adventure

a new story developed

the fuel hoses at my fuel tank had been weeping. nothing major just a slow drip.
so obviously drive the fuel low and drain out 5 gallons right?

turns out the previous owner swapped the fuel lines backwards
the return line was on the outlet port and the return port was on the line to the IP
explains why i could never get that last 3 gallons of diesel out.

but it gets better
shine the light at the outlet port and you see a black rubbery mass and half moon pipe just clocked below it
yep 1981.5+ all tanks have a rubber hose on the outlet pipe inside the tank!!!

so my solution for that... 3/8inch stainless steel pipe inserted through the nipple into the other pipe
sealed with diesel resistant gasket maker shellac
at the rate of "doing it right" and having to spend more time to prep the tank for an open flame...
i decided to make it interesting.
"properly" would be to drill out the nipple, remove interior pipe, weld together, and silver solder/braze the entire pipe back to the tank

*oh you say "wouldnt the 3/8 pipe be smaller and restrict the fuel?"* no, the fuel line under the vehicle is much much smaller than the outlet on the tank


also another note
the tank had been dropped once before
the tank straps were obviously bicycle tube.
...atleast under the 10lbs of red texas dirt the tank was rot free and pristine black coating of paint


example photo:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAAPE/nHZ2K7zDznE/s800/20131017_171540.jpg


so...
now putting the tank back into position
straps back into place
5gallons of diesel back into tank
calling it done for another 30 years.
 

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78rabbit1.5LGP & 82rabbitpickup1.6DGC
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i ended up replacing the fuel lines at the tank
i think they were original. cloth braided on the outside.
interesting the hose is molded at the outlet
the outlet hose actually deteriorated and fell apart with a nice hole in it

i bought some 30R9 fuel injection hose to avoid deterioration
3/8 and 1/4 inch

and this stainless splicer (dont use brass on diesel)



compared to these diesel hoses which was very hard to find for some reason

http://www.mk1autohaus.com/Fuel-Reducer-Hose-DIESEL-Connects-Feed-Hard-Line-to-Tank_p_6677.html
 

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As far as the glow plug wiring goes,... 4 separate wires is good.
I just run them out to a small connector at the #4 glow plug. A piece of flat copper with 2 holes,.. one to bolt to the #4 and stick the #3 to it too.
The other hole is for the other 2 wires and supply wire to bolt to.
It allows you to separate them for testing,.. the separate fuse for each wire is a waste of time.

I know it's a little late for this tip to help you but,..I always blue locktite the injection pump bracket to the block,.. have seen those bolts come loose too many times and they are hard to get to.
 

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78rabbit1.5LGP & 82rabbitpickup1.6DGC
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
As far as the glow plug wiring goes,... 4 separate wires is good.
I just run them out to a small connector at the #4 glow plug. A piece of flat copper with 2 holes,.. one to bolt to the #4 and stick the #3 to it too.
The other hole is for the other 2 wires and supply wire to bolt to.
It allows you to separate them for testing,.. the separate fuse for each wire is a waste of time.

I know it's a little late for this tip to help you but,..I always blue locktite the injection pump bracket to the block,.. have seen those bolts come loose too many times and they are hard to get to.
oh definately, i blue loctite everything
it doesnt hurt and has a minor benefit of aiding to stop major corrosion on the threads
aside from stopping the loosening by vibration.

i have the whole kitten of wiring ready to go in a box. just a matter of when i feel like spending 3+ hours tearing it apart and meticulously wiring it in.
3 hours you say? yeah the detail and care to carefully secure, protect, crimp, solder, and heatshrink everything under a wire loom and tape - takes time, AFTER ripping apart the old wires.
im not for show, my ideology is function > fashion.
although i have those fancy LED fuses that light when they pop...
 

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Nice, I've seen your name in the MK1 forums for years, but don't recall ever seeing a diesel in your signature.

Excited to see some progress on this!

Funny you linked that SS barb...I recognize it because I just ordered 2 of those recently myself (I think they were 5/32 to 1/4?) to add a helper fuel pump and update some fuel hose in my MK1.
One seller on Amazon seemed to be the only place I could find that specific size barb and only in SS.

I ended up only using 1 of the 2 I thought I'd need though, but hopefully I can find a use for the other one some day.
 

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78rabbit1.5LGP & 82rabbitpickup1.6DGC
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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
take note Fuel Hoses Are 5/16 inch. struggle with 1/4 but they went on...


fun fact...
you can take the early oil pump baffle and put it on the later ABA pump
AND this fits perfect under the baffled oil pan gasket!






since oddly enough you must remove the oil pump to remove the gasket (or to install the gasket then install the oil pump)
i decided to put the old pump lower half (the pickup tube) onto the newer ABA geared pump
obviously perfect fit

--------------------------------------------------
so why spend all the time just doing this
i wanted to check the lower end for wear, simple as that.

i primarily and first took a visual look at the thrust bearing


its hard to see but i saw no scoring or wear. good news.

ive also read quite a bit about ARP studs and how they like to stretch or fatigue
so i gave the conrod studs a double 40ftlbs torque sequence (loosen tighten 40, loosen tighten 40) to make sure there wont be a problem


its also fun to listen to the HISS from the piston rings as the compression happens
as such i checked the valve tolerances again, and retorqued the headstuds for the 3rd time


oil looks super clean, the whole lower end was awesome. its been what 8,000 miles so not overall too suprising
also it was time for the 3rd oil change.

--------------------------------------------------
lastly, the transmission is comming out soon
when i first took this whole engine apart and seperated the trans
the lockring for the clutch pressure plate was damaged and basically fell off
i thought oh, well it should be fine when i put all new parts on... ALL NEW PARTS!!!!!



so less than 2000miles after driving daily i *believe* this part failed again
wierd right? brand new parts.
200mm clutch & flywheel according to everything
trans is comming off, i will know for sure what makes noise and why.
it makes noise but doesnt effect driveability in any way

i have a spare 210 ABA flywheel and clutch assembly that will be going on
new bolts all the way around -- again.

mind you i know the difference between 190mm and 200/210mm retaining ring and pressure plates



--------------------------------------------------
last point of the whole spiel:
with the trans removed
check rear main seal if leaking or if comming from somewhere else.

when i installed the crank there was a slight ridge on the crank where the seal rides
i have a bearing sleeve repair kit for this if it appears to be leaking around the seal.


both the front main and cam seal are not leaking
also the IM seal is not leaking
so....
 

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I’ve had a brass fitting in my fuel system for over a decade, with no issue. The sealing washers are copper and the bushings in the pump are brass or bronze.... never really put too much thought into it.

This may have been an issue when the fuel had a much higher sulfur content, but that was a long time ago.

-Todd
 

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78rabbit1.5LGP & 82rabbitpickup1.6DGC
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
i spent some time decyphering the internet and doing some diagnosis for my trans

the small pinion bearing is worn out. the one facing the engine inside the bell housing

the noise is only present during decel with the clutch engaged in gear

well.. this GP transmission has a documented 250,000 miles from my 81 rabbit
so which one do i use now?

GP junkyard - unknown miles, definite clicking sound when spun through gears (saved for a rebuild)
GY original pickup trans - 180,000 miles, crack on the top casing with sealer. possible..
GC original 78's transmission with low 85k-90k miles no problems.


im lucky to have spares but they seriously need rebuilding.

you guessed it, im going for the GC with a .97 4th gear on a diesel.
 

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78rabbit1.5LGP & 82rabbitpickup1.6DGC
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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
update from the depths.


removing the transmission showed me where the oil leak was comming from
the loose input shaft bearing caused leakage around the input seal
the crankshaft seal was fine, no obvious leak at all.


draining the fluid from the GP it was pretty obvious the silver colored fluid was the death of the transmission
maybe the internals will be useful for swaps. someday i'll find out


the GC transmission is absolutely horrible for highway speeds
which is exactly why it was removed from my 78 in the first place.

since the clutch was all taken apart i went ahead and put the 210mm setup on the diesel (94 jetta ABA)
will save the original 200mm flywheel for greener pastures.
 
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