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Solenoid Job not Holding

Here is my experience with the TransGo kit.
The kit contains a drill bit that is used to ream out the bushings inside the solenoid valves. After you have ground off the ends of the old solenoid cans. After "cleaning" the bushings new caps are pressed onto the solenoid ends. The kit also has a new bushing & valve assembly that is installed in the TCC Regulator bore along with the old spring & valve. Three smaller drill bits are included to drill out holes in the separator plates. Instructions Note: "Enlarging these holes allows for the normal wear in solenoid to valve control circuits and creates a more positive signal between solenoids and valves."
After installing one of the TransGo kits and clearing the shift adapts the transmission shifted great. But it was never able to learn to shift without a small bump between N and D the first thing after starting the car. I found that the K1 clutch pressure was too low. Possible N92 Solenoid problem? I have no idea what went wrong with the rebuild of the solenoids using the TransGo kit. But nothing helped to eliminate the bump.
Next I installing a set of new small can solenoids I got from eBay seller vwpartfl. They completely eliminate the N to D delay bump and all shifts are great!
The new small can solenoids cost around $300, much more than the TransGo kit. But I think the next O9G valve body I rebuild I may just go with the new small can solenoids to start with. Just replacing the solenoids is a very easy job compared to installing the TransGo kit. I already have the three small drill bits in the TransGo kit so I could do the separator plate mod at the same time. I always take apart the valve body so a complete cleaning and inspection of all the parts takes place.

Edit: I should add that I have used TransGo shift kits in other types of transmissions without problems.
I just acquired a 2004 Beetle 1.8 Turbo Convertible from an auction. One of the silliest things I've ever done. So I haven't had the bug for very long because as soon as I picked it up, it started to give me problems. My problem is the trans wont engage 4th, it revs and goes back to 3rd and I was getting "gear 4 out of ratio" code. Between 1st and 3rd there were no problems. So I did the first thing most people do, I flushed the trans and used VW fluid from the dealership but nothing changed. So before I got on this forum I read in another forum that a solenoid was possibly causing this issued. I replaced all the solenoids with a rebuilt set from Amazon. Also nothing changed. Then I read in another forum that the T2 clutch is known for causing this symptom due to a bad clutch sleeve that causes leakage and a repair kit from Sonnax could be the solution. Unfortunately I sent for the kit before testing the clutch because once tested it seems to be working just fine when air pressure is applied. After reading ALL the great info posted here, I'm not sure which way to go now. If the clutch is working why mess with it, right? There seems to be a leak around the cooler on top of the trans and I can smell coolant after driving the car for a few blocks. I'm definitely learning tons from this forum, by far the most accurate and informative I have found to this point. I know there are a few more things I need to check before I continue to replace parts. After reading that some people solved their problems fixing connectors, cooler, resetting shifting, etc., I think I should try some of those solutions before swapping more parts but I was almost ready to try rebuilding the VB using the small can solenoids as you suggested above. I just haven't seen postings addressing my particular problem and that provided possible solutions. It seems that most problems are related to issues with 1-2 gears and rough shifting, etc. Have you seen problems like mine or do you have any suggestions/ideas of things I can try that could possibly help me find a solution?
 

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Solenoid Job not Holding

I just acquired a 2004 Beetle 1.8 Turbo Convertible from an auction. One of the silliest things I've ever done. So I haven't had the bug for very long because as soon as I picked it up, it started to give me problems. My problem is the trans wont engage 4th, it revs and goes back to 3rd and I was getting "gear 4 out of ratio" code. Between 1st and 3rd there were no problems. So I did the first thing most people do, I flushed the trans and used VW fluid from the dealership but nothing changed. So before I got on this forum I read in another forum that a solenoid was possibly causing this issued. I replaced all the solenoids with a rebuilt set from Amazon. Also nothing changed. Then I read in another forum that the T2 clutch is known for causing this symptom due to a bad clutch sleeve that causes leakage and a repair kit from Sonnax could be the solution. Unfortunately I sent for the kit before testing the clutch because once tested it seems to be working just fine when air pressure is applied. After reading ALL the great info posted here, I'm not sure which way to go now. If the clutch is working why mess with it, right? There seems to be a leak around the cooler on top of the trans and I can smell coolant after driving the car for a few blocks. I'm definitely learning tons from this forum, by far the most accurate and informative I have found to this point. I know there are a few more things I need to check before I continue to replace parts. After reading that some people solved their problems fixing connectors, cooler, resetting shifting, etc., I think I should try some of those solutions before swapping more parts but I was almost ready to try rebuilding the VB using the small can solenoids as you suggested above. I just haven't seen postings addressing my particular problem and that provided possible solutions. It seems that most problems are related to issues with 1-2 gears and rough shifting, etc. Have you seen problems like mine or do you have any suggestions/ideas of things I can try that could possibly help me find a solution?
I should add that if driving at enough speed while on 3rd, the gage shows it shifting into 4th, 5th, and 6th but the gears are actually not engaging. It just revs and when I take my foot off the gas, goes back to 3rd.
 

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First, I bought this adaptor:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-09G-Tra...daptor-It-Lowers-the-Trans-Temp-/272774415670

It will replace the stock cooler, so the transmission oil is 100% cooled by air. There's a hose to bypass the coolant and return it to itself.

About the radiator itself, I bought a no-name one similar to this (but with 8 tubes and a bit larger):
https://b.cdnbrm.com/images/product...ersal_translife_transmission_coolers_hero.jpg

I bought about 4 meters of high pressure/temp gas hoses to fit them to the adaptor to the radiator.
Bought some mounting brackets and soddered it to the car's frame as to mount the radiator, it's the first radiator facing the air intake (when you look at the front bumper, it's the first radiator you see), leave some spacing between the stock radiator.

Hot trans oil goes through the lowest point in the radiator and then up, as to maximize the air that is received while driving, it was done that way because part of the upper part of the radiator is covered by the bumper.

Don't forget to add the extra volume of oil that passes through the hoses and radiator. Use a cylinder volume calculator if you want to be scientific and add the exact amount. It's about 100ml more.

What oil cooler did you use and have any pictures of the install?

Did you cut and splice the lines to the radiator or replace with new different ones? Are the coolers in parallel or series? If series which is first the radiator or your added external?

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Has anyone else seen anything like the problem I'm having with my 2004 beetle 1.8 Turbo? 1 through 3 it shifts normal, 4 through 6 I get nothing. The gear gage on the dash shows it moving into 4 though 6 if I pick up enough speed but it is actually not engaging. As soon as I let my foot off the gas it goes into 3rd. When I scan the ECU OR TCM all I get is "gear 4 out of ratio". I replaced all solenoids, I was going to replace K2 clutch sleeve with the kit from Sonnax but I pressure tested the clutch and it seems to be working fine. Could there be a different reason to be without 4, 5, and 6? I've been following these vwvortex forums and although they are so informative, I haven't seen many cases like mine. Most problems are with lower gears and rough shifting. Mine is not making weird loud noises or any rough bumps or anything like that. When I first drained the fluid although it was pretty dark, there was no metal at all, not even small particles. I'm using the VW fluid they gave me at the dealership for my bug. I also thought about doing a VB rebuilt using small can solenoids but I haven't seen any posts of anyone with my same problem having solved it doing so. One thing I think I haven't been very careful with is watching the fluid temp while refilling and having the bug on while doing it. But I had it on when I checked the level. So it was on and I shifted through when I checked to made sure the level was OK.
Does anyone have any suggestions or could point me in any direction on what to try next?
 

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Output Speed Sensor ??

Hi Guys - still having shifting issues with my 09G even after changing filter and fluid (3 times to makes sure it is all out). It doesn't happen all the time...sometimes can drive for a couple hours and it shifts perfect and other times it starts shifting really bad after only 10 minutes.
The bad shifts are generally 1-2 and 3-4 and downshifting in those gears as well.

The only code coming up is the OUTPUT speed sensor. Has anyone had this actually be an issue. I assume that code comes up always when there is shifting issues ?

Any input would be appreciated.
 

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Think I will try this Ravenol J1D2108-004 ATF for my next change.
"Specifically engineered for Aisin AW transverse and inline 6-speed automatic transmissions for popular applications like Volkswagen/Audi....."
"Provides high thermal stability even when the transmission is subjected to extreme conditions"

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QEDFIOA
Thanks for the link, I just bought 2.. Both the wife's Tiglean and my Passat are due...

Side question, I used the Lucas fuel injector cleaner occasionally and find it does work. Has anyone tried the Lucas transmission fix fluid? I bought a bottle but haven't put it in yet.

https://lucasoil.com/products/transmission-products/lucas-transmission-fix

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Side question, I used the Lucas fuel injector cleaner occasionally and find it does work. Has anyone tried the Lucas transmission fix fluid? I bought a bottle but haven't put it in yet.
Over the last 50 years, I have used all kinds of transmission treatments, none have helped with transmission problems that I could tell. Some people say they have had success, maybe. Most all are snake oil, feel-good treatments. It makes the seller feel good to get your money.
If the Lucus Fix is thick like their engine oil treatment, don't put it in the transmission. The 09G is made to work with a thin fluid. As others have found when the ATF overheats that is when problems start. I just keep the ATF changed often and never add anything extra.
Only my 2 cents worth.
 

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Most of my complaints from this transmission is due to the programing. Adaptive shifting is beyond stupid when, who would guess, more than one person drives a car. Two different Jettas and both of them had the same issues. Upshifting is sometimes a tad too long, and downshifting is too hard. These "annoyances" start around 30k miles.
 

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I should add that if driving at enough speed while on 3rd, the gage shows it shifting into 4th, 5th, and 6th but the gears are actually not engaging. It just revs and when I take my foot off the gas, goes back to 3rd.
In your previous post you stated that the pressure (65- 95 psi) to the K2 clutch was ok to activate 4th gear then the issue maybe related to a spun support sleeve.
Check to see if this may be the case.

I have a similar issue with the car going into neutral after a slight flare on up-shift from 3rd to 4th. I
 

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Two valve bodies put in but still not quite right.

Hello everyone,

I've been reading this forum for a long time, and decided to replace myself the VB on my 09G - did it twice. :rolleyes:

Before VB replacement, very rough 3-2, bump from N-D and N-R, limp mode occasionally. P0733 error code.

First VB I put in fixed all the bumpiness but had flared 2-3 and 3-4 (up to 1500 RPM!).

Second VB, all great except that 1-2 is bumpy when the trans is WARMING...
If COLD = Perfect, if HOT = Fine, but within the transition from cold to hot (5 minutes driving), 1-2 becomes very bumpy and annoying.

No mode error codes however.

Questions:

1 - Is the VB from Streetsmart good?
2 - Did I do the VCDS reset procedure correctly? (please check at the end of the video)
3 - Is there anything but the valve body that can cause this 1-2 bumpy when warming, but fine cold and hot?

Thanks!

 

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Replace the entire VB or just the Solenoids?

Good morning,

I've read about 10 pages of this thread which was very helpful but honestly quite overwhelming. My transmission shifts fine when cold but after 20mins or so once warm it tends to shift harshly (slip bang) from 1-2, 2-3, and rarely from 3-4. Once warm the down shifts are also not as smooth. It's also worth mentioning that I have changed the transmission fluid, filter, and gasket about 6 months ago with no improvements. From my understanding a rebuilt VB will most likely fix my issue, but it seems that replacing the solenoids might be a cheaper alternative with a fair amount of good success rate. I've heard that the "bores" or whatever can wear out which would require a VB rebuilt (not sure what symptoms this causes). With that being said can someone please suggest the best way to handle this? I'm broke so if I can get away with replacing the solenoids, I'd rather go that route. One more question, since I've been driving with this issue for about 2 years now, could I have caused damage to any other components such the gears?

Thank you in advance! (I hope I get a reply, the thread seems to be inactive)
 

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09G Problems SOLVED

Hey,

I solved the 09G problems over the course of 2 years. This is what I did:

I had flares, bangs, bumps the works. I wanted to scrap the car 2 years ago but I weirdly liked this 2.5L engine ( I also solved mpg problems and power problems with this engine too - it now drives like my BMW 128i)

What I did:

- First measured temperatures with VCDS:
- Cold – 75DegC ATF shifts were perfect
- Above 80DegC – tranny went to hell

I tried to solve why the temperature was so high (Max measured 120DegC, at 130DegC the computer puts the tranny into limp mode 3rd gear ) by checking anything related. This is what I found:

- Rear brakes were sticking (common VW problem) – fixed this and the ATF max temp drop to 100C
- Removed inline coolant thermostat to the heat exchanger – ATF Max temp dropped to 90DegC
- Replaced ATF fluid and filter 2 twice and added liquimoly ATF additive (250ml)
- I Replaced the valve body with a supposably rebuilt one from ebay - (I doubt it was rebuilt but it was slightly better than my original in terms of shifting)
- I then Added TranCool transmission kit for 09G - https://www.trancool.com/complete_kits/kit_aisin_round.html
- This a a Russian/Polish website that provides complete cooling kits for 09G tranny (replaces heat exchanger)
- I added this kit and it dropped my ATF max temp to 65-70C under tremendous load ;)

My car Jetta 2.5L 09G 6speed is at 300,000KM and drives perfectly after hours of driving in city, highway and traffic!!!!
Hope this helps a bunch of you.

I would say do the solenoids and or valve body absolutely last as its the most expensive and I barely saw any improvement. Im sure my old valve body and solenoids would work fine as it went to hell also after 80DegC too.

MY 09G is SOLVED and the above should solve a lot out there!
 

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Good morning,

I've read about 10 pages of this thread which was very helpful but honestly quite overwhelming. My transmission shifts fine when cold but after 20mins or so once warm it tends to shift harshly (slip bang) from 1-2, 2-3, and rarely from 3-4. Once warm the down shifts are also not as smooth. It's also worth mentioning that I have changed the transmission fluid, filter, and gasket about 6 months ago with no improvements. From my understanding a rebuilt VB will most likely fix my issue, but it seems that replacing the solenoids might be a cheaper alternative with a fair amount of good success rate. I've heard that the "bores" or whatever can wear out which would require a VB rebuilt (not sure what symptoms this causes). With that being said can someone please suggest the best way to handle this? I'm broke so if I can get away with replacing the solenoids, I'd rather go that route. One more question, since I've been driving with this issue for about 2 years now, could I have caused damage to any other components such the gears?

Thank you in advance! (I hope I get a reply, the thread seems to be inactive)

I had a similar issue. I ended up replacing the solenoids. There is a way to check if the solenoids are in good condition. Check my previous replies.
 

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Hi new to the forum thing, hope I am doing it correctly. I have 2008 Audi A3 2.0FSI with a 09g transmission, I just overhauled the engine and drive the car for about 80km and while driving the car just got stuck on 4th. I stopped the car and it just revved up and wasn't moving while on drive, now it does not move if you put it on drive or even reverse.

Please help
 

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First I would do as alexplay said above, change the fluid and see what is in the bottom of the pan.
You have the classic problem of not shifting well after the fluid is hot.
A new set of the small can style solenoids may help but if the friction clutches are worn out then you will need a complete transmission rebuild. You will need to spend around $300 on new solenoids, don't get some junk rebuilt ones.
what do new solenoids do that the shift kit doesnt? I am thinking about trying the shift kit and if that doesnt work doing new solenoids but maybe it would be better to just do the solenoids
 

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Update on my 09G transmission issues

Keeping my fingers crossed. The person who did the VCSD scan on the car did 3 firmware updates to the ECU. The mechanic also replaced the MAP sensor because of the code it was throwing (P106 can also be caused by ECU software too sensitive). Drove all over Phoenix yesterday in 110° heat and the car did not have the clunky downshifting or the CEL or wrench icon popping up. If the problems don't show up over the next week I'll consider the problem fixed. Funny, I asked the stealership specifically if there were any firmware updates for the car and was told NO, your car needs the VB replaced for $2200.

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So it's been 25K miles since this was done and while it didn't eliminate the problem it was much improved to where I decided to live with it. In the last month the issue had gotten worse and pretty much back to the original problem. I took it to the local VW repair and had the fluid changed and added a pint of LubeGard universal transmission protectant since it seemed to help before. Things were marginally better after the fluid change but it would still occasionally clunk coming to a stop and the wrench icon would appear and the gear indicator "D" would disappear as before.

Since I didn't want to put any more money into this problem I figured what else could it be? Transmission control module? I know I had looked for it before and most info said it was inside the left front fender but I never did see it. I opened the hood and picked out the two obvious computer modules and used a can of Deoxit contact cleaner on both sides of the connectors. So going on three weeks now and ZERO issues with the transmission clunking or the wrench icon coming up. Could this have been the problem all along??? Would like to know if the modules I've identified are really what they are...........

 
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