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Filter spec: 09G325429B (this filter is meant for the newer low viscosity ATF

If you have any questions or need more detail for your own situation, I'll do my best to help out and answer.

Thanks!! :)

interesting...... So, what is different about this filter than the other that you remember? Two things come to mind to me. 1) The older filter has bigger holes in it and can not filter finer particles, which means your oil becomes sandpaper, or, 2) the newer filter is of the same mesh but has a higher number of pleats?

What did you notice?

Thanks
 

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All 09G transmissions need kit

Do not bother getting a new valve body for the 09G transmission because it also will not last.
The problem is the valve body drilled holes in the plate between halves, are too small in some places, and quickly get clogged with metallic paste sediment from the differential gears.
The ONLY solution is to refactor the valve body plate holes yourself, with one of the kits available.
Essentially the kit is a set of drill bits and instructions.

https://www.ebay.com/i/190779798790...MIx8OMv9a56AIVOffjBx33JQngEAQYAiABEgKqS_D_BwE



In my experience, all 09G transmission need it, and it works to fix all of them I have done.
And I have done half a dozen by now.
The kit is only about $70 and does not require tranmission removal.
Just drop the valve body after removing the pan.

I also suggest adding an acrylic tube to the capped over factory filler port at the front of the transmission, so you can easily drain, and refill, without the silly pump mechanism from underneath.
You should be changing ATF every other year.
And get your ATF directly from Asin, the the Japanese maker of the 09G for only about $6/quart.
 

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Is there any reason no one jumped in here with a 2016+ tranny or just a cowinkydink?
The 09G was replaced with the DSG transmission at some time around 2007 or so, and the DSG does not have the same problems.
But the 09G is not just used in VWs. It is a Japanese transmission by Asin, and it also used on BMWs, like the MiniCooper. It is also used in Toyotas.

The transmission is not really defective in design, but is built to be flushed often so that sludge can not built up, and VW goofed and for some reason told its dealers to not change fluid ever year, like they should.
 

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what do new solenoids do that the shift kit doesnt? I am thinking about trying the shift kit and if that doesnt work doing new solenoids but maybe it would be better to just do the solenoids
There is likely nothing wrong with the existing solenoids, but it is just that the valve they are suppose to open is clogged up with metallic paste sludge from the differential gears.
The valve body kit comes with new solenoid caps to replace the ones you have to grind off, so you can ream the solenoids out.
Rebuilding the solenoids like that works fine as long as they are not electrically burned out.
Getting NEW solenoids is far riskier because there are at least 2 variants, and it is easy to get the wrong ones, even from the dealer.
Remember, the 09G is a Japanese Asin transmission, and VW is not the maker or supplier of it, so does not always know or track which variant was put into your particular VW vehicle.
 

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I had a similar issue. I ended up replacing the solenoids. There is a way to check if the solenoids are in good condition. Check my previous replies.
There is not way to check the solenoids because the valve they are suppose to open gets clogged with metallic sludge from the differential gears.
You just have to grind the caps off, ream them out, and press new caps on that come with the kit.
But also do all the drillings specified in the kit.
The tiny original drilling as almost microscopic, and much too easily clogged up.

And by the way, clunking is a sign of an automatic working well.
The faster it shifts from one gear to another, the better.
The PROBLEM with the 09G is when the valve body gets clogged and you hear the whining sound of slipping.
That is when you have to stop driving it.
 

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I just acquired a 2004 Beetle 1.8 Turbo Convertible from an auction. One of the silliest things I've ever done. So I haven't had the bug for very long because as soon as I picked it up, it started to give me problems. My problem is the trans wont engage 4th, it revs and goes back to 3rd and I was getting "gear 4 out of ratio" code. Between 1st and 3rd there were no problems. So I did the first thing most people do, I flushed the trans and used VW fluid from the dealership but nothing changed. So before I got on this forum I read in another forum that a solenoid was possibly causing this issued. I replaced all the solenoids with a rebuilt set from Amazon. Also nothing changed. Then I read in another forum that the T2 clutch is known for causing this symptom due to a bad clutch sleeve that causes leakage and a repair kit from Sonnax could be the solution. Unfortunately I sent for the kit before testing the clutch because once tested it seems to be working just fine when air pressure is applied. After reading ALL the great info posted here, I'm not sure which way to go now. If the clutch is working why mess with it, right? There seems to be a leak around the cooler on top of the trans and I can smell coolant after driving the car for a few blocks. I'm definitely learning tons from this forum, by far the most accurate and informative I have found to this point. I know there are a few more things I need to check before I continue to replace parts. After reading that some people solved their problems fixing connectors, cooler, resetting shifting, etc., I think I should try some of those solutions before swapping more parts but I was almost ready to try rebuilding the VB using the small can solenoids as you suggested above. I just haven't seen postings addressing my particular problem and that provided possible solutions. It seems that most problems are related to issues with 1-2 gears and rough shifting, etc. Have you seen problems like mine or do you have any suggestions/ideas of things I can try that could possibly help me find a solution?

I already posted the repair kit I have been successfully using.
But you will also notice the transmission works best when cold.
So then you should wonder why they put hot coolant from the engine, into the transmission cooler?
That is gong to heat it up, not cool it down.
So what I did was to add a heater core as a cooler for the transmission totally separated from the engine coolant.
No pump is needed since convention and conduction is all that is needed.
It will run about 90 degrees cooler, so then will work much better.
 

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Actually, there is a way
https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/113-aisin-aw-linear-solenoids

I tested the good solenoid and the bad one. Just as described in the link


There is not way to check the solenoids because the valve they are suppose to open gets clogged with metallic sludge from the differential gears.
You just have to grind the caps off, ream them out, and press new caps on that come with the kit.
But also do all the drillings specified in the kit.
The tiny original drilling as almost microscopic, and much too easily clogged up.

And by the way, clunking is a sign of an automatic working well.
The faster it shifts from one gear to another, the better.
The PROBLEM with the 09G is when the valve body gets clogged and you hear the whining sound of slipping.
That is when you have to stop driving it.
 

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So how do you do that? Do you wait until the thermostat is normal, then you open the drain plug, then measure the temperature of the excess fluid? Or do you point the infrared to the oil pan?

No, you do NOT want the vehicle up to operating temperature.
That is 190 degrees, as the ATF is heated by the engine coolant, and the ATF will be scalding and way too hot.
Technically you just want the ATF warm, and the ODBII reader will tell the exact temperature.
But don't bother.
If you check it cold, it will be only slightly over filled, and that is a good thing.

By the way, the Tiptronic is actually a Japanese Aisin, so Toyota T-IV is better ATF and only $6/quart.
The transaxle must have an ATF change every other year, and can not be sealed for life, as VW incorrectly claimed.

The other advice is to remove and shunt the engine coolant lines to the ATF cooler, and add an external cooler instead.
It can be water or oil, depending on how much work you want to do.
Water is easier and you do not need a pump since it will move by convection.
An external oil cooler requires changing tubing above the valve body, but it is set up for an external oil cooler.

By way, it is also much easier to refill and top up if you crack off the cap on the factory oil filler port in the front of the casing, just above the pan.
You can than extend the filler port with a 1" diameter acrylic tubing, about 2' long, with a removable plug.
 

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My 09G, in a 2009 VW CC, just decided it doesn't wanna play anymore.

Pulling out of the neighborhood, it just dropped out of gear and will NOT go back into any gear. I coasted to the side of the road, walked home and got the truck and tow strap and dragged it home.

Pulled codes. I got P720, Output Speed Sensor Circuit. Opened the trans and replaced the sensor. Did a new filter and fluid while there. No change.

Putting the car in gear does literally nothing. The engine revs but the wheels do not spin. Doesn't matter which gear I select.

Ideas??
 

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kids car wont move, it would go in and out of gear, got home it wont move at all, i figured valve body and replaced it. I bought reman off ebay that has smaller solenoids that seller said would work better than large ones.

So today if i let car sit for awhile it will go into gear and reverse and drive will work, once i put into park none of the gears will work anymore and it will not move. I tried checking fluid and everything seems fine, i tried adding extra and removing some to see if thats helps but doesnt. I figured fluid level isnt quite right because of gears not 100% working.

So does anyone know why cars only work after sitting for about a hour or so? like i said they stop working after i put into park.

Thanks,

2005 vw jetta with 2.5l tranmission has new valve body, and new fluid and filter.
 

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kids car wont move, it would go in and out of gear, got home it wont move at all, i figured valve body and replaced it. I bought reman off ebay that has smaller solenoids that seller said would work better than large ones.

So today if i let car sit for awhile it will go into gear and reverse and drive will work, once i put into park none of the gears will work anymore and it will not move. I tried checking fluid and everything seems fine, i tried adding extra and removing some to see if thats helps but doesnt. I figured fluid level isnt quite right because of gears not 100% working.

So does anyone know why cars only work after sitting for about a hour or so? like i said they stop working after i put into park.

Thanks,

2005 vw jetta with 2.5l transmission has new valve body, and new fluid and filter.
Could be the fluid is thicker after it cools down some and will produce more pressure. Sounds like you have low line pressure. Best way to check this is with a pressure gauge and test the pressure. ATSG VW09G/09M Transmission Technical Manual available on ebay, will give the location of pressure ports and what pressure to expect. Could be a seal on a clutch piston is leaking or a clutch pack worn out. Most likely time for a rebuilt transmission or a used transmission.
 

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No, you do NOT want the vehicle up to operating temperature.
That is 190 degrees, as the ATF is heated by the engine coolant, and the ATF will be scalding and way too hot.
Technically you just want the ATF warm, and the ODBII reader will tell the exact temperature.
But don't bother.
If you check it cold, it will be only slightly over filled, and that is a good thing.

By the way, the Tiptronic is actually a Japanese Aisin, so Toyota T-IV is better ATF and only $6/quart.
The transaxle must have an ATF change every other year, and can not be sealed for life, as VW incorrectly claimed.

The other advice is to remove and shunt the engine coolant lines to the ATF cooler, and add an external cooler instead.
It can be water or oil, depending on how much work you want to do.
Water is easier and you do not need a pump since it will move by convection.
An external oil cooler requires changing tubing above the valve body, but it is set up for an external oil cooler.

By way, it is also much easier to refill and top up if you crack off the cap on the factory oil filler port in the front of the casing, just above the pan.
You can than extend the filler port with a 1" diameter acrylic tubing, about 2' long, with a removable plug.
Using Toyota atf sounds way better than using $25 a quart bs, also the filter is $100+ does that sound right?
The 09G was replaced with the DSG transmission at some time around 2007 or so, and the DSG does not have the same problems.
But the 09G is not just used in VWs. It is a Japanese transmission by Asin, and it also used on BMWs, like the MiniCooper. It is also used in Toyotas.

The transmission is not really defective in design, but is built to be flushed often so that sludge can not built up, and VW goofed and for some reason told its dealers to not change fluid ever year, like they should.
my 2016 Golf has the o9g, never had it changed and it’s at 38k looking to change it before I go i Is38 on the poor basturd
 

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interesting...... So, what is different about this filter than the other that you remember? Two things come to mind to me. 1) The older filter has bigger holes in it and can not filter finer particles, which means your oil becomes sandpaper, or, 2) the newer filter is of the same mesh but has a higher number of pleats?

What did you notice?

Thanks
Is there a link to the recommended filter?
 

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Sphak, So just wanted to throw out my experience with the 09 G I have MK 6 2012 Jetta with 148,000 mi. I first felt this shift bump between shifts like 3rd to 4th gear after a long road trip in the middle of last summer. I would say heat definitely plays a role in this shifting problem it has gotten worse over the last 6 months.. now it is sometimes a scary shift bump like it's going to rip the car apart. anyhow I have stage 1 ECU and TCU tuning from integrated engineering and my car when cool still to this day as long as it's cool and not warmed up alot it runs 5.8 seconds 0 to 60 It runs like a freaking raped ape it's awesome. however once it's warmed up for 10 or 15 minutes it does that crazy shift bump could be between first and second could be third fourth could be the 6th it doesn't matter it does it eratically when it's hot. I'm going to try some of this shift learning that I've been reading about here with the TCM but otherwise I'm just going to replace this whole motherfng unit and keep on asking
Thank you for the postings. They lend some alternative insights into the 09G. This would have been much more appreciated 3 years ago beofre I made a tool, but that is how it goes. The pdf is also nice, however, realize that this transmission doesn't need any special tools, besides the one requred to fill the pan and, of course, a scanner. If you have general transmission rebuilding tools than you will set to go. Also, in regards to the VB replacement, I wouldn't be too worried as the chance of you getting a VB with issues is rather slim. I have built 6, 09G units and haven't had such a problem, but it is possible. Now there are ways to fix these issues, but I have omitted them in the postings here because of the liability of sorts. Since this issue of 09G VB's is such a big topic I may write a post focused solely on my experiences with this VB, such as identification, function, and troublespots and what your options are. Again, I have only rebuilt 6 of these particular units but I have been intrigued with this unit because of how mysterious it is. Aisin-Warner don't really have good luck with VB's and the 09G is no exception, however, AW makes other transmissions that have many, many more VB complaints than the 09G! At the end of the day, in terms of high-quality foreign transmissions, ZF is still king. If you think that such a post specifically focusing on the VB information mentioned above is good idea, let me know. Anyone can respond to this as well. Thanks again for the information in your last post.
 

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I would also like to throw out there that I ran everything from Valvoline maxlife to straight up a 90 weight gear oil that has almost same specs as oem fluid btw Ive tried all kinds of different fluids in this transmission it doesn't make a huge difference
 
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