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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Thanks Yates.. I'm glad I can be of use for somethin! LOL.. Its builds like yours that make me not want to enter a show :laugh:

I don't know where I get my inspiration from, haha. Too much TV shows. When I built my MkII it was Overhaulin back then. Set out to do a quick freshing up for a driver and end up with a custom. The caddy has almost turned into something similar, except these days Dee got me hooked on Fast N Loud, a show about these guys out in Texas who buy these old heaps and fix them up into custom cars and flip them. Except for the selling, theres some parallels there lol. Just seems like one thing leads to another constantly.

I'm looking forward to SOWO, so hopefully you're gonna make it. Rudy messaged me about that show in Miami, the truck just wasn't up to going. I think at that time I already pulled the dash out to weld in all the braces, and putting it together for Miami would have been a big rush. I didn't even get to respond to him because I kept changing my mind on it though, peice it back together to go or not, and I was constantly either working at work or out back.. no chit chatting on the comp. So yeah, SOWO and some :beer:! Hopefully I will have the 1.9 in by then. I'd actually like to have it in the next week and a half.. Im having to do a bunch of traveling for work and would like to take the truck on the trips. But Im going to be traveling so much I don't know how much time I will get to work on it, and these pieces parts I dont have I know are going to kill me. Everytime I turn around I know Im going to have to stop and order something else and wait.

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3,062 Posts
impressive work going on here :thumbup::heart:

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1,514 Posts
Seriously man, this truck is tits. Unfortunately, I won't make SoWo this year, as I just landed a new job and will be away training for a couple of months. I'll definitely catch you at the A1 Classic though. Are you boosting that 1.9?

On another note, I have all the lines/fittings and whatnot needed to get the air ride going, as it came included in the kit. However, I would like to upgrade and might need your help. You lost me on your post lol pm me for more about this (costs, what I need, etc.). :thumbup:

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Thanks Pete and Yates! Suycks you wont be at SOWO man. Congrats on the job though. Thats awesome. CIA?
What a week. Had to go to Houston beginning of the week, but got to work on the engine when I got back..

Real long story short, mainly because I don't feel like typing much.. But long story short, got timing covers, water pump, a bunch of other knick knack items. Ordered a ABF alternator swap kit from BFI, but it hasn't arrived yet.

Original plan wasn't to turbo. But the shape of the intake ports almost has me forced into using the 1.9 intake, which looks pretty dang restrictive. So, I may end up turboing it. I have most of the parts to do so, except for the injection pump. Good thing is that most of the internals on the 1.9 is the same, turbo and non turbo. From what I read the rods and pistons are different, but its just that non turbos have a longer rod.. Same head, both have oil squirters, etc.

Replaced the engine mount... That was fun.. not..

I went to the junkyard this week and got the alternator bracket bolt/studs, and I actually managed to get the dipstick tube out of the ABA. Woo hoo! That thing was a MOTHER YOU KNOW WHAT to get out..

Spent a lot of time in the bead blaster and cleaned up parts. Spent some time last night to shoot some primer:

Shoot some matching base coat for the body of the truck:

And then some clear coat..

Started putting on parts...

1.9 timing cover had to be heavily trimmed to clear the 1.6 pump bracket. The 1.9 uses a heavy cast bracket. Normally if you put a 1.9 in a MkI you use a gasser mount, and the 1.9 pump and bracket. I don't have a 1.9 pump, and my 1.6 pump only has about 3,000 miles on it, and I am not seriously considering turboing just yet anyhow.. Long story short, in order to use a 1.6 pump, you need to use the 1.6 bracket, because the 1.9 pump has a longer snout/shaft because of the thicker bracket. If I use the 1.6 pump on the 1.9 bracket, the pulley will be out of alignment.

Since the bypass hose(hose from the water pump to water neck on the head) is needs to be longer for the tall deck 1.9, I had to get a water hose for a 1.9. I ordered the one for the AAZ(Canadian 1.9 IDI TD). Since all of those came with oil coolers, I robbed the oil cooler from a 1.8T I had laying around. To go with that, I needed to get the other coolant hose from the AAZ that goes to the metal hard pipe. Since the metal hard pipe is routed differently on the 1.9 than it is on the 1.6, I also had to replace that.. Thankfully the one for the ABA is routed about the same as the 1.9 so I was able to get the hard pipe from the wrecking yard. I think the rubber hose may be the same between the AAZ and the ABA as well.

One thing that sucks is the oil filter flange on the 1.9 is also different, apparantly the same as the 2.0.. Not that big of a deal, except I already painted this one up.. I don't see me mixing up primer, base and clear just to paint a flange.. too much waste since the primer and clear are activated, and if you don't use it, its wasted.. I plan to go to the junkyard tomorrow for a flange.. Maybe I will get two.. One to put on now, and one to paint when I have other stuff to paint..


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There's actually a small chance I could catch this bad boy at SoWo this year, as I'll only be 4 hours away training. so perhaps I'll rent a car and make the trek. No CIA here lol I accepted with CBP, down in Miami.

The progress never fails to amaze. Keep up the great work! :thumbup:

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5,570 Posts
Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Ok, the past month has been crazy.
I was hoping to finish piecing the engine together, and then I had to go out of town for work for two weeks, and have been just slammed ever since..

One of the things I needed was something for an intake. I don't have an elbow for the 1.9 manifold, and if I try to fab one it will probably be pretty restrictive. I just ended up getting a PD130 intake from a newer Passat, and then I welded the EGR ports closed, and welded a piece of 2.5" aluminum tubing i had laying around to it to give me a place to mount an air filter.

I also installed the new injectors, glow plugs, etc.

I then took it off the stand and bolted the flywheel and new O2A transmission to it, so I could find TDC and install the injection pump..

No pics, but I did end up removing the cam so I could turn the engine over without damaging valves. Swapped the pump over from my 1.6(only a few thousand miles on a rebuild of that pump so I am reusing). Then I reinstalled the cam..

Then last weekend(March 9), I drove the truck for the last time with the ole 1.6.. Backed it up to the shop door, and cleaned out the shop in preparation for the swap..

Just after I got the truck inside, a neighbor pulled up on his tractor to shoot the isht. Ended up losing about 2.5 hours, because the conversation became about the mentioned tractor. Ended up buying the said tractor..LOL.. I need something heavier to hook to my bush hog since my 30hp Massey struggles with it.... its a 1960s David Brown 45hp diesel.. ugly but its a work horse..

With the side tracking done, finally got the truck inside, and started working on it..

Last glimpses of the 1.6..

And she comes out later that evening...

Up next, 02A swap stuff...

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5,570 Posts
Discussion Starter · #88 ·
So as mentioned, the new combo is going to be the 1.9L AEF diesel mated to an O2A transmission. Transmission is a CTN code TDI box, which should drastically lower my engine RPMs with these tiny tires.
During the swap, I am also upgrading to an O2J shifter assembly, and I am using MkIV hydraulics. The B3 passat stuff is the easiest to fit, but honestly, trying to find non-abs pedal clusters is becoming tough, and I don't want to commit myself to using parts that will be obsolete shortly. With the MkIV, I know clutches, slaves, and even the hydraulic line if I need it will be available for a good while.

I actually spent last Sunday doing nothing but gathering parts. After staying out in the shop til 1am(pre time change time) woke up at 5:30 am(new time) to drive to the Autozone hub and pick up a new rear tranny mount and a pair of late Cabby CV axles. I thought I had a new rear mount, but I guess I didn't.. The hub was the only store that had them, which is over an hour away. I wanted to get down there, get the parts, and get back so I could get to work...
Then I on the way down, I remembered the flywheel I had on hand for the swap didn't work with my new clutch.. Choices were to get another 250 dollar clutch or a new flywheel.. Thanfully, I remembered there was one out in the junkyard.. As soon as I got home from Autozone, I threw some tools in the truck and drove an hour the other direction to the U-Pull-It.. LOOOONG MISERABLE STORY SHORT, 6 hours later I had my flywheel. As soon as I get home(exhausted at this point), another long story short, got a new calf which took 2 damn hours, so by 8pm, I was so tired I didnt mess with the truck...

Got back to work during the weeknights after work.. I began focusing on the 02A mods before I did anything else to the engine.. I figured the most difficult would be the rear tranny mount, followed by the clutch, followed by the side tranny mount, and last but not least, the shift tower swap and mounting the shift box. And thats the order I am doing the work...

While I am sure many people just eyeball and slap some mounts together on the ground, or bolt the engine and trans together then fit it in the car, I wasn't down for that route.
What I did was take a large piece of 0.25" plate, put two holes in it where the dowels go, then weld a pair of dowels from an old engine in it.. Then put this on the 020 to make brackets that go to the mounts, then I could transfer the jig to the O2A and make new mounts that match the jig...

This little gem has REALLY helped out!

A little out of order, since it actually started on the 020, but here's the jig plate on an 02J.

Here it is on the 020... As you can see I fabb'ed arms off the jig plate to go to the mounting pad of the stock rear mount..

This gave me a target to meet on the new trans..

I decided I didnt want to make my bracket extend off the lower 3 bolts like some do, partly because I just don't like it from an engineering standpoint, and those bolts weren't designed to support the weight in the first place. I decided to box the diff and use the 3 bolts used in the Mk3 application.

Next, on to the clutch...

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Discussion Starter · #89 · (Edited)
The idea was that I would transfer the clutch pedal from a MkIV directly into my MkI.. For anyone considering this, nope, ain't gonna happen.. As I found, it sits about 4" closer to the driver than all the other pedals..

I sat out there trying to figure out just what to do about this... When it came down to it, I decided to use an automatic cluster from a cabby I had sitting there, and modify it..

I removed the stock pedal cluster and removed the clutch pedal from it.

I then modified the brake booster bracket to give a spot for the other cluster to bolt to.. Making the other cluster fit took alot of welding and grinding. Two of the 3 bolt tabs had to be cut off and welded back on about 3/8" rearward, due to a step in the firewall. My mounting plate under the engine compartment also had to have this step in it..

Then because of the pushrod length of the MkIV master, it had to be spaced off the firewall about 2" or so. Finding the sweet spot between pedal position, pedal throw, etc was alot of fun.. not really..

Once I got done with that, i was able to modify the brake pedal arm. I had to cut a rectangular notch out of the pedal, then create a pocket 0.540" wide to accomodate the plastic clip for the end of the MkIV pushrod, since the MkIV does not have an eye on the pushrod like the early stuff does.

Thank God for the plasma cutter..

Preliminary fit..

Bracket finalized, boxed and with an arm for the stiffener that goes to the frame rail..
I had to grind the bolt studs out of the pedal assembly and use bolts welded to the bracket for the lower two holes.. and the upper is still a bolt welded to the pedal cluster, but it was replaced with a longer bolt because of the additional spacer mentioned above..

Painted and installed..

Pedal Pics..

To keep the pedal from flexing around, I had to cut the upper reinforcement from another car and weld it in.. its not welded yet in the pic..

And finally:

So far, clutch pedal wound up being the hardest part...

After I finished that up last night, I got the shift towers swapped out... FYI heres the difference in an O2A and 02J tower..O2A on the left, O2J on the right..

Then I started working on the side mount...As you can see in the pics, O2A box is shorter than the 020.

Enabled my trusty jig plate to locate the mount on the 020, and transfer the location to the O2A..

Tonight I am going to see if I can get the last mount fabricated... From there the only custom work I think is left is making the shift box fit, which I hope wont be too hard..

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1981 VW Rabbit Pickup 16V
1,208 Posts
Truly excellent work and an inspiration to the rest of us!
Reading through this repeatedly every time I get discouraged with the pace of my own (comparatively modest) rebuild. :beer::thumbup:

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5,570 Posts
Discussion Starter · #92 · (Edited)
THanks yall.
BF you doing a thread?

Last night I made some pretty good progress, took alot of pics, but left the camera out in the shop.

Made the final tranny mount. The last tranny mount was pretty easy. Took a piece of 1/4" plate, put two holes in it for the two bolts to the tranny, bolted it in place. Made some radiused and angled filler plates/gussets to go between the mount and the 1/4" plate, then boxed it in with some 1/8" plate. Turned out pretty sweet. If everything fits well, I may draw them up on CAD and have a bunch of mounts run and offer them up if anyone is interested. That way I can have some nice clean cut ones. That kind of thing is hideously expensive for one or two.. a batch of 20, its not too bad.

Plate bolted to tranny:

Layout of gusset curves in 1/8"

Gusset cut out for mount, now trim for contour:

Both gussets cut out and welded in:

Gussets boxed in:

Final tranny mount fabbed and excess main plate cut away:

All painted up, bolted on, and ready to go to the ball:

I also did some trimming of excess on the rear mount and painted it..

I tapped the holes on the top of the trans for the shifter cable bracket because they were corroded from I guess the air elements from sitting for 10 years. Well, almost 10 years.. Box is a 97 box, I bought it in 01 or 02 for my MkII, and pulled it out in like 03 or or 04.. The tranny is a baby.. I been meaning to put a VR bell on it and install it in my VR Mk2 since oh, about 2005, then was going to put its guts into my blown 02J case and put it in my MkIV in about 2008, and now that the IV has been gone since 2011, its finally going to go into my MKI...

But I got the shift box bolted to the trans, and adjusted the shift cables. Figured it would be easier to do outside of the car where I can work both ends of the candle at the same time. Damn, these things shift so nice. Each gear is smooth and "click" "click" "click".

While I had the shifter box mounted to the tranny, I pushed the cables down at the diff to simulate where they would roughly be with the steering rack in place and measured back to the shift lever to see how far back the shifter was from the trans give or take a little bit. I then got under the truck to see how far back it was from the steering rack to the shifter ball, both of them were right about 24"...

With dimensions that close, I decided to go ahead and mount the shifter in the truck.. Again, it was pretty easy. The Rado guys complain that the 02J shift box doesn't fit the floor very well. It almost appears the 02J box was made for the MkI LOL... After removing the stock shifter assembly, I put the 02J box under the truck to see how it fit the cutout in the floor board.. It was almost perfect! The width is spot on, and the front of the cutout places the shifter perfectly. When it was all over with, all I had to do to the opening in the floor was to open it slightly(about a 1/4") using a die grinder.
To fit the shifter, I made a heavy paper cutout that had a hole in it for the tower of the shifter(everthing that comes up through the bottom of the floorboard) and laid it over the shifter so that the two studs would punch holes in the paper. I then laid under the truck, lined up the hole with the hole in the floor, and then marked the two holes for the studs on the floor and drilled them out with a unibit.
Shift box fit in just right first time.. Thats when I found I had to extend the hole a little on the rear with the die grinder.. From there, it was just a matter of grinding down the two welded in nuts on the bottom that were used on the original setup to hold the shift plate in the car, and I cut off the mid exhaust hanger because it would get in the way of the box.

Cardboard Cutout

Holes drilled in tunnel for two front studs, and big hole trimmed in rear. Also trimmed the exhaust hanger off and ground down the welded in nuts from the tunnel for the old shift plate.

View from underneath. I still need to make a plate for the rear two holes, but I'm honestly waiting until I see if I go turbo, which will mean fitting a 3" exhaust past this point.

Like a friggin glove!

Tonight I am going to set the timing on the injection pump, bolt the trans to the engine, and see if I can get the engine up in the truck again!

I think most of the heavy work is done. But I know the exhaust will need mods. Partly because of the shift box, but also because I am installing a header.

I will post pics tomorrow.. i will update this post with the pics, and make a new post on the new work.

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5,570 Posts
Discussion Starter · #95 · (Edited)
Thanks Matt!
The truck isnt really following any certain style, which means its got enough features for anyone just about to not like it, LOL, but hey... I'm building it as a driver, that gets driven several hundred miles a week so I want it to look decent and be functional and comfortable and everything to work... I want good mpg, a classic looker, but I also don't want a sore back or swamp ass from the stock seats, I want a stereo that has some SPL and frequency response, I want gauges that work, etc.. The simple things in life LOL..

Well, I made some progress two nights ago. and some last night.. Not much, all night was occupied by the truck...

First thing I do on these things before bolting the tranny up is get a nice high visibility paint pen and mark the damn zero mark on the flywheel so its not so hard to see later.. 2 years down the road, you will thank yourself for doing this..

So after that got the bellhousing sheild cleaned up and installed.

Tranny bolted to the engine.. You can see the flywheel marking much easier with the paint. Note I also paint the arrow.

Timed the injection pump, finished bolting on as much as I could before install, and shes ready to go.

Install started out pretty easy.. Engine lifted crooked, engine side higher than the transmission. So I installed the engine mount first.

As I brought the assembly up higher and leveled it out, found the tranny mount was hitting the frame rail.. The gusset I put on there stuck out too far so I had to lower it down, and cut that section off then repaint it.

However, after an hour or two, its getting there!
All mounts in, and line up great! Shifter fits, and tranny shifts fine.
Note, run your shifter cables between the firewall and the rack!!
Clutch hose is all hooked up.

Last night was a bunch of wasted time.. I was going to finish it all up...

I had 3 exhaust manifold options.
1: Header
2: Dual Outlet Euro style
3: Stock toilet bowl with spring clips.
And thats the order of preference..

Well after dicking with it for an hour, realized the header wasn't going to work with the tall deck 1.9 block no matter what. No matter what I tried, it hit the mount for the steering rack..

So I go out to my parts car which still has a dual outlet setup on it.. They flow pretty good. Seemed to have some clearance around it, so I spent 2 hours out in the yard jacking up the parts car, cutting the exhaust system off, and finally removing the manifold and downpipe..
As luck would have it, the 3 bolt flange in the downpipe hits the steering rack..

SO, after losing about 3 hours, I was back to fighting with the toilet bowl, but I got it on!

I then installed the oil pump, oil pan, filled the gear box with gear oil, and installed the remaining two sheilds between the transmission and the engine that cover the flywheel.

At this point all I have left is to install the CV axles in order to get the car off the jackstands and back on four wheels.

Thats when I go to grease the CV joints and found the axles I bought are built wrong.. Theres a thread on that.. Crappy Autozone Axles

So I hightailed it to the nearest place that had a set of new axles, all the way out in Leesburg Fl.. Left the house at 7:35, its an hour and 40 minute ride in good weather.. I made it there at 8:57 in the rain, LOL...

So Im heading out tonight to see if I can get it all buttoned up and fired off!!

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5,570 Posts
Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Nice work Bobby.:cool:

I wanna do a TDI conversion in my truck bad, I would love the extra torque and powaaaaah! Looks killer boostd broster.
Bobby?:D its Scott. Don't feel too bad, forgot your real name too. TDI is a good way to go if you can get the donor. Mines not a TDI, although it may end up turbo some day. The man in brown dropped off a K03 for me on Friday I may play with.

Well the saga continued..

First off, gotta say big thanks to Folgers, Maxwell House, and Community.. without yall, this(or nothing else in my life) would ever get done..

So I got the CV axles one at a time, and put them in a vice and greased the joints.. I pop the boots back and pack them from the boot side towards the flange, then put a nice layer on the flange side of the joint.. No pics of that, my hands were too dirty to hold the camera..

Ready to install the axles.. Hopefully this is the last time I see this for a while..

Passenger side went on flawlessly.. Everything torqued up and spun nice and easy.. Can't say the same for the driver side. I remember hearing blurbs about some kind of interference with late model joints on the MkI knuckle.. Well here it is.. There is a lip on the joint that hits, then after you get rid of that the OD of the portion outboard of that lip is too big in diameter..

There is a couple of hack fixes to this issue.. Since I didnt have the ball joints loose and just fought with the axle to work its way in there and I finally had two of the inner bolts already on(which was a minor pain in the butt), I just decided to pull it back and dress it on the car rather than put it on, take it off, etc 500 times.. I just carefully burred the joint using a right angle die grinder gradually until it fit..

Getting that together marked a major major mile stone, I was able to let the truck off the jacks!

Move around up top, and started finishing up. Got the clutch master reservoir mounted and filled.. I used a reservoir and hose from a 2003 Ford Ranger. They are easy to fit, plentiful, and the correct size hose.

Then I hooked up more various crap..

Getting an airfilter on this thing proved to be a challenge. Intake is a PD130 intake, with a 2.5" inlet pipe welded to it. I dug through all my old silicone stuff in order to make something quick and easy and nothing worked...
After fighting with stuff for over an hour, I finally gave in and fired up the TIG and made an aluminum intake tube.. It should work well as the starting point for intercooler piping down the road anyhow, if i go that route..


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5,570 Posts
Discussion Starter · #98 ·
On Saturday, after precisely 2 long weeks, she finally made it outside!

Took her for a nice ride!

Vitals look great!

1.9 IDI FTW! Love it, runs great!
CTN O2A trans FTW! Gearing is AWESOME!!
O2J Shifter swap FTW! Oh my, is this a Volkswagen?!?!?! I didn't realize how nice a MkIV shifted when I owned one.. Sitting in the caddy and having that quality of feel though, wow, its dramatic.. You point the shifter where you want it and get the gear with no fighting. And super smooth.. A nice "click" from the shifter with each gear change.. Oh man its so nice.

Oil leakage FTL: Due to a my attempt to save 45 dollars on three bullcrap special valve cover hold down washers, I leaked out 4 quarts of oil in 12 miles, and had to have a jug of oil brought to me, and used that oil to get back to the house.. Teporarily fixed it with some oversized washers until I can take it in the shorts for some AAZ washers.

No brakes FTL... Brake booster on the test run didnt work at all.. Decided to take the vacuum pump apart and see if it had some stuck vanes. I think the pump would work better if it HAD vanes in the first place!!

Thankfully when I bought my "good vaccuum pump", I actually bought two from the guy.. The "other good vacuum pump" actually had vanes in it. Now I have brakes too!

So far, have about 100 miles on it, and couldn't be happier.. Its nice to be able to start it without having to open the hood and shoot the intake with brake cleaner LOL

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5,570 Posts
Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Dang. After like 9 months I notice I posted the same pic under four different captions:eek: next time I get on the computer will have to look in my photo bucket and see what was SUPPOSED to be there.

On the wheels they are actually 8's and 9's. Not sure if I put 7 in an earlier post, or if you typo'd. I will go look at them later and see if they have the offset marked on them. I think the fronts are 15 and the backs are 0. They have been off the truck for a while because the fronts wore out pretty bad, and the backs got cut up from rubbing the fender. The air shocks helped but they bleed. If you don't keep on top of them next thing you know its rubbing again.
Plan was to do air ride, but I am considering just doing a nice firm static setup.

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