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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
04/04/2013
The pictures were on an old computer and Apple, being the crappy company that they are, deleted everything because well Apple does what Apple wants, at the expense of their customers (which I am no longer.

You can find what was stuck in the Google cache here ( https://plus.google.com/photos/111558677186659133355/albums/5863000111271013857 ) They aren't big. They aren't originals but it's better than nothing.



If you want that back story, read on.
I hope this can stick in here since it is a syncro but I thought i would put together a build thread.
Long story short, when I was young and dumb I paid Matrix Engineering to swap a 24v 3.1 Liter Syncro into my Mk3 GTi and this was in about 2000 before the R32 was even heard of. Well they were kind enough to front a lot of the money since they planned to get into magazines with it, but the build too 3, yes count it, 3 years and I finally told them I was picking it up (Im in WI they are in WASHINGTON).
They were kind enough to pick the car up on one of their road trips, but long story short was, I had no tuning done to the thing due to running out of time, there where a few loose bolts when i went home. There was no gas gauge, no e-brake, and maybe, if I am lucky, 100 ftlbs of torque.
Well the darn winters ate that car to crap, so now I am swapping it over to a clean MK3 shell. I dont want a "Fuel cell" since they cant survive around here and I want to do it on my own, since it looks like a not so difficult swap. I've never welded a thing in my life, but that isnt going to stop me.
I picked up a welder new

Here is the floor pan of the shell it's going into




Got the floor pan cut out!

Here is the car its coming out of

Here is a current pic of my garage (changes yearly)

Here is me working on the old shell Monday(today)

Here is everything pulled up, it was a pain getting this far

Rear diff view with no floor pan

Nothign like good ole rust coming from the "fuel cell" holder

Fuel Cell is out, holy pain in the balls!

This is why I had to drop the fuel cell first

And here it lies in my garage now, ready for clean up
 

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Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (Zupek)

Why not order an aluminum can for that bladder? Hell, have someone dupe the original one in stainless if you must. You are far better off with the cell than the oem crap if you intend on any sort of competition driving.
Good luck with the project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (yellowslc)

nope, no such competition driving... its purely a for fun car now... I understand the benefit on the "can" for racing, but im doing no such thing...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (jettaboy_gtx)

the whole point in me doing this swap is to have a 100% stock looking car.. and it would be nice to last more then 1 wisconsin winter, if it had to.
Plus I alreday have a mk3 syncro gas tank... so it should make it pretty simple..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (Zupek)

Today I played with the welder and since I've only welded 1 other time, i wanted to weld some lines that I cut in my rear floor pan that I didnt need.

Other then that, I have started to clean up the rust from the rear beam, but I couldnt find a good solution. Stopped by Sears and they have a 40grit abrasive pad for my 4.5 in angle grinder... perfect! But its late so I cant work on it until tomorrow... so until then!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Re: My MK3 2 Door GTi Syncro Swap/Setup Build Thread (Zupek)

Got the rear suspension/beam separated so I can clean it up and paint but, but I ran into a little problem

This bolt, wont budge. It's completely seized to the bushing. Besides melting it, what are my other options? Right now I can get enough leverage on it, but it just turns the bushing... Options, Ideas?
If I have to get new bushings, any idea where I can get some poly urethane bushings for the body mounts?

And here is an overview shot of the brakes, rotors, and arm off... still chuggin away. A couple hours a night, really isnt enough!

 

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FV-QR

hot damn zupek!

i didnt know you had another mk3!
everyone I've ridden in his 24v syncro'd gti before and I have to say, that car is no joke! should be even more so with the swap onto the clean shell.
good luck with this, looking forward to seeing it later this spring http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: FV-QR (M3NTAL)

"unexciting"? what are you talking about Zupek?

for some reason i didn't have the full picture of what you're up to until now... i can't wait to see this thing! keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: FV-QR (M3NTAL)

Quote, originally posted by M3NTAL »
hot damn zupek!

i didnt know you had another mk3!
everyone I've ridden in his 24v syncro'd gti before and I have to say, that car is no joke! should be even more so with the swap onto the clean shell.
good luck with this, looking forward to seeing it later this spring http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

I believe that was a 12v at the time. the 24v down has been out of commission for some time
 

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Re: FV-QR (Zupek)

Quote, originally posted by Zupek »

I believe that was a 12v at the time. the 24v down has been out of commission for some time

it was the side exit that fooled me
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: FV-QR (scirockin16v)

im still at work sitting around doing nothing. I can pretty much leave whenever I want... but still. i need the cash. Seems stupid since the Federal Reserve (private bank) just said they were giving out $1,200,000,000,000 to fix what cant be fixed...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Re: FV-QR (djshortbus1.8T)

So the goal today was to leave work early, but that was a big no no as idiot A called and I walked her through some phone computer stuff, which took 2 hours... but I did get to work on it.
I forgot that I have to measure the gastank first, so ripping the suspension parts apart to clean them up, is a stupid thing to do until I can get the floor pan situated and the fuel tank in (mk3 SYNCRO fuel tank, not avail in the U.S.).
Here the suspension is bolt up, tighted up and just about where it would sit normally...

Here is the spindle lining up in the wheel well

I have some trimming/grinding to do as there isn't much clearance between the gas tank and the frame. Looks like every MM counts

Here I am having some issue's trying to figure out where the gastank is going to sit. I still have to worry about the bumper cover being installed, but trimming the bottom of that wont be difficult

And here is something else that is a bit tricky to think about... the filler neck. I don't know how much clearance is supposed to be there, but as the pictures sat, this was the gap between the frame and the filler nozzle


Oh and today's is my dog TURBO's actual birthday (in human years) He turns 9 and is the complete devil...



Modified by Zupek at 12:13 AM 3-23-2009
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Re: (Zupek)

Weekend update!
Okay I fitting the gastank into the correct position and welded some seems. here is where the final area is going to sit, so I can get markings to start welding...
Overview

Clearance

Backend clearance

Due to the mk3 syncro gas tank having a "reserve" type area, that sits above the rear diff, i had to make sure there was clearance for 1) the drive train movement and 2) the diff is about an 1inch lower then where it will sit when it loaded.


This is showing the form of the support bar that would normally be there if the rear pan was a stock mk3 syncro floor pan. This is where I need to weld a beam to hold the gas tank support straps, since I dont have that floorpan

This is showing that the fill nozzle is in the correctly place where the tank sits right now

This is showing the clearance "behind" the gas tank. I wanted to make sure that vibration wouldn't rip a hole in the tank at all.

This is the filler neck and frame clearance

I took the tank out measured where the hold straps will be going to on the FRONT REAR H-BEAM and welded the bolts on for threads/studs

This is used show that I took account for the shape of the frame. This would be upside down and for the passenger side.

Before removing the gas tank, I measured 19in from the end of the frame to the "rail bend" in the gas tank. These are the marks so I know where the center is and to keep the FRONT REAR H-BEAM STRAIGHT


FRONT REAR H-BEAM is in and half way welded

And a close up of the welding on the bar thus far

What's next? I have to finish welding the FRONT REAR H-BEAM to the frame, then clean up the REAR REAR H-BEAM from welding spots, mark them, weld the bolts/studs for the gas tanks straps and then get them in.
Once that is completed I have to test fit the tank w/ straps, load the rear drive line and measure for the rear diff mounting that goes to the FRONT REAR H-BEAM, which is why I had to remove the fuel cell for



Modified by Zupek at 12:04 AM 3-23-2009
 
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