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Discussion Starter #162
No carbon package. It is à la carte. Mine has the carbon mirror caps and the carbon interior trim. I didn’t do the drivers assistance package. I don’t like most of those features and keep them turned off if possible in cars with it.
 

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Can someone educate me on the iron vs aluminum block 2.5T differences ? I read about few blown engines with 25K price tags to fix (most seemed to be running E85 iirc). Still, hard not to tune this beast. So much potential to be unleashed.
 

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Can someone educate me on the iron vs aluminum block 2.5T differences ? I read about few blown engines with 25K price tags to fix (most seemed to be running E85 iirc). Still, hard not to tune this beast. So much potential to be unleashed.
Essentially the entire short block is redesigned. Besides the aluminum block it also has new rods/pistons, the crank is gun-drilled, magnesium pan, new oiling setup... The head is probably different too but I am not 100% sure. Some engines have blown but it seems if you keep it under 550 ft-lbs and don't pour the boost on too hard too early, you are generally fine.
 

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Thank you for the response.

Yes, I am looking at 2018s or older. Can you perhaps speak to the Android Auto or CarPlay functionality i.e. is it solid?

This thing has been for sale since October. Looks like it has the CCBS, does that mean it doesnt get the mag-ride like I think I saw posted?

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/792826915/overview/ - $50K



Not sure if I could live with the color.
Apparently I’m in the minority but I love that color.

Carbon ceramics on the street are overkill, for pretty much anyone. I know of a few Z/28 guys who track their cars who swapped the ceramics for steel to save a ton of money, and they say they lost no braking power. I will say that the ceramics on the Z were the only brakes I’ve ever driven that experienced zero fade, even on very steep downhill runs at pretty high speeds.
 

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Helpful info, thank you. I may try to go lay eyes on the gold car Friday, sorry for the thread derail.
Did you not say you wanted DAP? That car doesn't have it.

That car is still there for two reasons - The color and the Dynamic Plus package. If you can get a discount enough so that those are basically free it might be worth it. But even then another car without that 8k worth of those two options or whatever it is might be cheaper still.
 

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Did you not say you wanted DAP? That car doesn't have it.

That car is still there for two reasons - The color and the Dynamic Plus package. If you can get a discount enough so that those are basically free it might be worth it. But even then another car without that 8k worth of those two options or whatever it is might be cheaper still.
Jinx
 

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Ok - one more question, I promise.

How do you tell if a car is equipped with the Stop and Go just buy looking at it? I assume the package is the Drivers Assistance package or something?
To get the stop and go, you need the driver's assistance package (DAP). You can tell by looking because there's a square sensor at the bottom of the grille:

 

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Can someone educate me on the iron vs aluminum block 2.5T differences ? I read about few blown engines with 25K price tags to fix (most seemed to be running E85 iirc). Still, hard not to tune this beast. So much potential to be unleashed.
While I know that a blown 2.5T is not a cheap proposition, $25k sounds really, really high. Is this a dealer cost?

Couldn't a used engine just be purchased and swapped for cheaper?
 

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While I know that a blown 2.5T is not a cheap proposition, $25k sounds really, really high. Is this a dealer cost?

Couldn't a used engine just be purchased and swapped for cheaper?

It's probably dealer price for an installed long block, wouldn't surprise me. I think actual parts cost for short block is around 9k and more like 14k for long block, if I remember correctly. Really though nobody would do that, you can build a fully forged built engine for less than that, but it's still pretty friggin expensive for that. If you do the whole deal with a larger turbo and what not you are looking around low 20's. But you can reliably make like 700 to the wheels at that point, maybe more, and the car drives like stock.
 

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While I know that a blown 2.5T is not a cheap proposition, $25k sounds really, really high. Is this a dealer cost?

Couldn't a used engine just be purchased and swapped for cheaper?
07K100032J labor and whatnot. If you manage to blow it, build it. I can't believe how freaking expensive oem brake pads are for these. Seems like it almost pays to just swap to a bbk or at the very least 2-piece rotors.
 

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07K100032J labor and whatnot. If you manage to blow it, build it. I can't believe how freaking expensive oem brake pads are for these. Seems like it almost pays to just swap to a bbk or at the very least 2-piece rotors.
The front pads and rotors are laughably expensive. There are a lot better pad options but any rotor options are still a lot of money. At least if you go to two-piece rotors the next time you need to replace them you can just replace the rings.
 

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If you do the whole deal with a larger turbo and what not you are looking around low 20's. But you can reliably make like 700 to the wheels at that point, maybe more, and the car drives like stock.
Yeah, I know, I live near IROZ, national leader in built 2.5T Audi engines.

But from the perspective of someone who just wants to buy one of these things, slap on a tune and a DP, and sell it in a couple of years. What is the realistic downside exposure if the engine blows, and you're not looking to build it into a monster. It sounds like $15k is a reasonably approximate cost.

When I bought my tuned Audi S3 I did this analysis. I figured about $10k if I blow the EA888. I was just curious what the math would be on the RS3.
 

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The front pads and rotors are laughably expensive. There are a lot better pad options but any rotor options are still a lot of money. At least if you go to two-piece rotors the next time you need to replace them you can just replace the rings.
Is this if you get the (Now discontinued) front ceramic brake option? Or is this for standard brake rotors and pads?
 

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Is this if you get the (Now discontinued) front ceramic brake option? Or is this for standard brake rotors and pads?
Pads for iron rotors are about $800 and they're junk.

Yeah, I know, I live near IROZ, national leader in built 2.5T Audi engines.

But from the perspective of someone who just wants to buy one of these things, slap on a tune and a DP, and sell it in a couple of years. What is the realistic downside exposure if the engine blows, and you're not looking to build it into a monster. It sounds like $15k is a reasonably approximate cost.

When I bought my tuned Audi S3 I did this analysis. I figured about $10k if I blow the EA888. I was just curious what the math would be on the RS3.
I windowed the block but was able to keep the head. Only had to buy a new block and crank. I think that was about 7-9k without going and looking at invoices. Not sure what new pistons and rods would cost. Didn't put stock back in.
 

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Is this if you get the (Now discontinued) front ceramic brake option? Or is this for standard brake rotors and pads?
The standard ones. The OE pads are about $550 and the rotors are $850 a pair. That's just for the front, the rear is same as an S3. To be honest I didn't realize the rotors were priced in pairs until now, so it's not as bad as I thought. The carbon rotors are 9k for a pair (lol) I doubt anyone is buying those again.

As far as tuning on stock engine, you will never have a problem on pump fuel. The VAST majority of engines let go are stage two E85.
 

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Discussion Starter #180
As far as tuning on stock engine, you will never have a problem on pump fuel. The VAST majority of engines let go are stage two E85.
Very true. That said, most of the E85 failures were either early on, on early cars with fueling issues from the factory, or on calibrations that were intentionally aggressive "drag only" files. A big part of why I went with APR is the insane amount of instrumentation and sensors they add to their development cars during calibration development. This combined with actual road race data on their calibrations is why I ultimately decided on them. You can run their E85 file on a road course, the ultimate torture test for a powertrain. I would be reticent to comment on the reliability of some of the "most powerful" calibrations in sustained full power applications (road course). If I give up 20-25 whp in the process over the most powerful options, but gain a decent amount of reliability headroom, that's fine with me. This isn't a race car.

The other thing that can blow these cars up is filling up with E85, immediately swapping to the E85 map, and then giving it hell. The fuel system is returnless, like basically every one one today. It takes time for the E85 to make it to the injectors. About 7-10 miles of normal driving. I don't swap until then and even then I go easy for another 10 minutes or so.
 
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