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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First, I'd like to give you a little background on myself and my driving style so you can understand where I'm coming from and why I'm going down the road I am.

The car that I replaced with my GTI is my 2006 BMW 330 (e90). I bought this car to learn how to drive on the track in BMWCCA Driver Schools and eventually get my competition license (Bertil Roos). Over the course of six years, I poured a ton of money into my little 330 to make it better and better on the track. I ended up spending around $30K in modifications to every possible part that I could including braking, handling and lightening. I spent around $7K in suspension mods alone not including installation (coil-overs, adjustable sway bars, M3 suspension parts and an LSD). Yes, it was all worth it as I had a competent car that I was able to learn how to drive fast and safe.
Prior to getting my BMW I had a 2006 Z06, but was never able to track it due to selling it to get a more practical car.

Once I got my SCCA Competition License I only drove my BMW on the track once to instruct in a BMW competition school.

The car I race on the track is a 2008 BMW 335 with my buddy (it's his car). The very first time I drove the car was in a 12 hour endurance race. We missed practice and qualifying due to work constraints. So I basically jumped in the car and went at it. I'm a quick learner and was running competitive lap times in a short time (yes, I knew the track very well). The car was setup very similarly to mine, so it felt comfortable. It of course was a bit stiffer sprung, but similar. When I first started driving the car we had an AST suspension. We eventually changed that out for a softer sprung Ohlins suspension that works great. We've been able to finish on the podium several times with the car in 4, 9 and 12 hour endurance races.

I am what you would call a curve junkie. I live for curvy roads and a nice on/off ramp. Everything in between is just a straightaway that leads to an eventual curve in the road. The license plate on my GTI is "L8 APX."
Yes, I do get to the point where I'm balancing the car at the limit when it's safe to do so.

The GTI:
Shortly (1,000 miles to be precise) after I got my GTI I had VWR springs installed. They worked very well with the stock all-season tires for me.
Then, I installed a set of forged Volk wheels with Michelin PSS tires that are wider than stock as well (see sig). Once I added a ton of grip and control, I was really able to lean on the VWR springs and stock shocks. I just don't think the valving is aggressive enough or that the suspension is reacting quickly enough for my liking. For the vast majority of drivers, I'm sure this will work just fine, but for me, not so much. Also, once I switched to the forged rims I could definitely feel there was less "deflection" in the wheel and could feel what the tires were doing much easier. With this new setup, I was able to do a four-wheel drift around several of my favorite corners as well. The understeer was quelled a bit too, just by changing to the stickier rubber.

Now, on to my latest and greatest GTI setup:
Coil-Overs
I wanted to go coil-overs again due to the added control in reaction and dampening. I didn’t however want to go to a super stiff ride (wife drives my car often and we take trips all the time in the GTI). My JIC-Cross coil-overs on my BMW are a bit more aggressive than most coil-overs and they worked quite well on the track (maybe a little soft from what I’m used to now). On the street in higher speed transitions the valving and spring rates are fine. It’s only under very low speeds and large bumps where you really get rocked around and it feels too rough.
This led me to researching a much more street oriented coil-over and I seriously considered the KW Street Comfort along with the H&R Street Performance, but I wasn’t convinced the ride would be what I’m looking for.
Based on Mk5 and Mk6 along with one Mk7R review of the HPA SHS Coil-Overs I was convinced that these were what I was looking for. I worked directly with Daryl at HPA for all the technical details. The shocks are really based on the KW V3 suspension, but with a fixed dampening rather than adjustable. Yes, the KW V1 is non-adjustable, but not all V1 kits are dual-piston like the V3 or HPA SHS.
These are also Inox stainless steel bodies, which will hold up the elements where I live and have a two-year warranty through KW. Quality looks top notch as well.
http://www.hpamotorsports.com/product_sus_shs.html

Box Pic:



Front Installed Pics:





Rear Installed Pics:






Sway Bars
I definitely wanted something that was adjustable. I have them on my BMW and it’s nice to be able to adjust the stiffness. I did quite a bit of research and most stated that just a rear bar was needed. Again, with my full-suspension upgrade, I was leaning towards F/R bars.
I really liked the H&R and Neuspeed bars, but when I saw the price of Eurocode, I just couldn’t ignore them. They had a test vehicle with a bunch of their suspension parts installed and I liked what I read. The bars have three positions for stiffness F/R, so that means there are actually six different stiffness settings for each bar (note: the stiffness of the bar is across the entire bar, so if you mix up the holes from side-to-side it offers a different stiffness. This allows for more adjustments than just the three holes available). I liked the technical details of the bars, being hollow (light) and three holes (28.5mm front and 25.5mm rear). I was able to get them during their sale so I ended up paying only a little more than one bar from the competition. I thought it’d be worth it to TOFTT.
http://www.ecodetuning.com/store/vw...front-rear-adjustable-stabilizer-bar-set.html

Just a pic from the Eurocode website. You can see the sway bars in the other pics as well. They're the only red item on the suspension:



Sway Bar End Links
There was no question in my mind; I was NOT putting spherical bearing anything on my car. My car will be street driven in the winter and every single one of my friends that have put spherical bearing end links or control arms have regretted it as they get loud very quickly and start to “clunk.”
So, I went with the SuperPro F/R sway bar end links. They look like very nice pieces and should do the job.
http://www.superpro.com.au/find/sup...w-golf-mk-7-typ-5g-fwd-2012-on-/cid-999501162

Front Control Arms
If I’m going to go this far, why wouldn’t I upgrade the front control arms? I’ve done this on my BMW with great success and better overall geometry, plus added handling benefits.
From the SuperPro website:
SuperPro Alloy Control Arm Assemblies deliver more caster and eliminate unwanted flex.
This arm kit has an aggressive caster change that can cause tire to guard contact on lowered vehicles, especially with non-standard tire and wheel package.
http://www.superpro.com.au/find/sup...w-golf-mk-7-typ-5g-fwd-2012-on-/cid-999501162

Here you can see the side of the front control arm along with the front sway bar. Yes, another thing I'm having done is the LSD, see below, but I'm also having the Sachs SRE clutch installed as well. That has been bolted up to the engine and is awaiting the trans.



A better shot of the control arm:




Chassis Stiffening
This was something that was completely new to me and didn’t think there was something like this available. The chassis stiffness is of great importance to ensure there’s no deflection under load that can alter the suspension geometry. (On a side note: stiffer, forged wheels are viewed as a suspension component because any deflection of the wheel will alter the contact patch of the tire and therefore affect handling.) Arno from Smith VW mentioned that Tyrolsport had just released a Deadset Rigid Subframe Collar Kit for the Mk7. They had great success using these kits on Mk5/6 cars so I was on board to give it a try.
Notes from Tyrolsport:
Volkswagens latest subframe set up is similar to the Corrado and Mk3 subframes. While this is a vast improvement over the 3 piece subframe of the Mk5 & 6 prone to annoying shifting & popping under normal driving it still falls short of living up to the Tyrolsport standard.
This kit replaces all factory hardware with ARP fasteners as well as a replacement and much better engineered subframe bracket.
This kit uses the same proprietary ARP Stainless Steel fasteners included without previous kit. We have replaced all 4 subframe bolts with our own ARP fastener.
The replacement bracket is engineered to not only secure the subframe to the chassis but it also centers itself with integral locating collars. Machined from Billet 6061 T6 aluminum this surpases the OEM bracket in rigidity. Also included in the kit are 4 new ARP fasteners to secure the bracket to the chassis. That’s 8 ARP fasteners in total!
Deadset Kit Benefits
All Tyrolsport Deadset kits are designed to not only eliminate annoying subframe popping and shifting but it also isolates the suspension.
Notable Benefits:
Better steering response
Tighter turn in
Better braking performance
Improved over all road surfaces
Better chassis to road feel/ driver feedback
Allows for tighter/consistent alignments
http://www.tyrolsport.com/suspension/chassis/tyrolsport-deadset-rigid-subframe-kit-for-mk7-a3/

No installed pics, just in the box at this point:




Dogbone Insert
Going with the 034 Dogbone insert based on the recommendation from Arno at Smith VW. Not much else to say other than I’ll see how it feels afterwards.
https://store.034motorsport.com/mqb...golf-gti-r-8v-audi-a3-s3-billet-aluminum.html

Limited Slip Differential
I’m sure I wouldn’t classify this as a suspension item, but it will work in tandem with all the other upgrades that I’ve done listed above. Right now, coming out of corners, I’m definitely waiting to put the power down. This is with a stock tune. I plan on going to APR Stage 1 & IC after my new clutch is properly broken in. For me, I just can’t imagine trying to get over 300Hp through one drive wheel, so I’m adding a Peloquin LSD. I’ve done a bit of research on LSD’s and have heard nothing but good things from Peloquin, including personal experience from Arno at Smith VW. The LSD will allow me to put power down sooner and really utilize all the added suspension benefits as well.
http://www.peloquins.com/

Peloquin LSD installed:




I know all this seems to be a bit overkill and TBH it probably is for the vast majority of people. For me, as I stated above, the stock car is just a bit boring to me and think this is going to give me the little go-cart I’ve been looking for. 3,000lbs. and over 300hp with a suspension to match will be absolute heaven in the making.

Stay tuned for updates…
 

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What's the minimum drop on those coils? One thing I did like about the KW street comforts, is they allowed you to stiffen the car without lowering it much at all (i think they could drop just 0.25, great for the street). Used to do autocrossing a lot back in the day and HPDE events at VIR. Looking forward to the rest of this build!
 

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Also looking forward to a review of your build.
Looks like all you need is the roll center height correcting ball joints. AFAIK, they aren't available yet, but soon (according to Superpro).
Did you consider an S3 aluminum subframe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also looking forward to a review of your build.
Looks like all you need is the roll center height correcting ball joints. AFAIK, they aren't available yet, but soon (according to Superpro).
Did you consider an S3 aluminum subframe?
I did consider the S3 aluminum subframe, but elected to not go that route and went with the Tyrolsport deadset instead to stiffen up the chassis. Thought it'd be a bit cheaper in the long run.

I see you're in MD. Have you been to Smith VW in Newark? You have quite a bit done to your car. Smith is doing all of this installation for me.
 

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I see you're in MD. Have you been to Smith VW in Newark? You have quite a bit done to your car. Smith is doing all of this installation for me.
I haven't. I've done most of the work myself. Only had the VWRs installed, that by NGP in Lorton VA.
BTW, I love your approach to mods. Unlike many, you have a clear goal, done your research, and developed an approach to reach that goal. Well done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I haven't. I've done most of the work myself. Only had the VWRs installed, that by NGP in Lorton VA.
BTW, I love your approach to mods. Unlike many, you have a clear goal, done your research, and developed an approach to reach that goal. Well done.
Nice! Glad you're able to do the work yourself. Don't forget, Delaware has no tax, which helps with larger bills. Smith VW can basically get you just about anything you want and it's usually there so you don't have to worry about shipping either (I know most offer free shipping anyway).

My research lies with me being a former mechanical engineer and product manager. I now work in market research in the pharmaceutical industry, so it's in my blood.
 

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Also looking forward to a review of your build.
Looks like all you need is the roll center height correcting ball joints. AFAIK, they aren't available yet, but soon (according to Superpro).
Did you consider an S3 aluminum subframe?
They are available, but from what I have read do not work with their LCAs.
 

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They are available, but from what I have read do not work with their LCAs.
The part you quote is not listed as fitting the Mk 7. The part number for the Mk 7 will be TRC0009, according to an email I received from the North American Sales Manager.
 

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The part you quote is not listed as fitting the Mk 7. The part number for the Mk 7 will be TRC0009, according to an email I received from the North American Sales Manager.
Good to know, I found that part on ModdedEuros website under MK7. Maybe the correct part will work with the PP BBK and SP LCAs.
 

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Thanks for posting your build and future plans. Good info.

Mine is a daily, and occasional lapping day car; so I'm not in your league; but I do enjoy the lapping days. Did HPDE and Time Trials in the past with my E46 M3.
The VAQ diff sure makes a difference, and I look forward to your take on the Peloquin diff.


Regarding the roll center adjustable ball joints, FWIW, I have the following installed on my car:
SuperPro Roll Center Adjusting Ball Joints.
Modded Euros: https://www.moddedeuros.com/product...joint-a3-jetta-golf-gti-rabbit-eos-r32-golf-r
SKU:106484
MPN:TRC0003

The local indy shop has installed two sets of these on 2016 GTIs. They fit perfectly.
It looks like Modded Euros indicates they're for 2015 only, but 2016 is the same chassis.
I understand the upcoming part will be TRC0009; but the ones I have fit just fine.
Since mine's a daily, the front camber is set at -1.3, vs the -.9 stock.
Makes a nice difference. Still stable on street, with better cornering grip at the track.
 

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The local indy shop has installed two sets of these on 2016 GTIs. They fit perfectly. Since mine's a daily, the front camber is set at -1.3, vs the -.9 stock.
Makes a nice difference. Still stable on street, with better cornering grip at the track.
Good to know. I thought I had read/heard somewhere that the Mk 6 part fits the Mk 7, at least the stock LCA.
Have you noticed any uneven tire wear with your camber setting? Do you have a deviation from stock toe to compensate?

This is all good stuff! Should be in the suspension forum I guess, but that forum seems somewhat dead. Plus you have to wade through a bunch of non-Mk 7 posts. It would be great if there was a sticky in this forum for suspension tuning that focused on performance.
 

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Good to know. I thought I had read/heard somewhere that the Mk 6 part fits the Mk 7, at least the stock LCA.
Have you noticed any uneven tire wear with your camber setting? Do you have a deviation from stock toe to compensate?

This is all good stuff! Should be in the suspension forum I guess, but that forum seems somewhat dead. Plus you have to wade through a bunch of non-Mk 7 posts. It would be great if there was a sticky in this forum for suspension tuning that focused on performance.
Yeah, that's what the indy tech told me, that a number of MK6 parts fit MK7, and these are one of them.
It's probably too early to tell if there's uneven tire wear, but our expectation is that tire wear should still be even with -1.3.
I've had this setup for less than 1,000 miles and 1 track day. So far, no evidence of uneven wear.
I'll check my alignment spec sheet to try and answer the toe question; a good question by the way.

I've been to the track 3 times so far:
1. REVO Springs, APR Stage 1 ECU, APR TCU, APR IC and silcone hose/t-clamp kit, 18x8 ET45 RSe52 with 225/40 RE-11s.
2. Added REVO rear anti-roll bar. Noticed the greater willingness to turn-in.
3. Added the SuperPro adjustable ball joints, with -1.3 front camber. 18x8.5 ET45 RSe10 with 235/40 PSS. Noticeably improved turn-in and corner grip.
I like the car with 235/40 tires much better than with the 225/40 size; regardless of tire brand.
 

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I like the car with 235/40 tires much better than with the 225/40 size; regardless of tire brand.
Soon as I am done with the OE AS I am looking into 245/40s, but like I posted on his MK7 thread, not sure how well they will fit with 18x8.5" ET 43 and extra caster from the LCAs.
 

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Soon as I am done with the OE AS I am looking into 245/40s, but like I posted on his MK7 thread, not sure how well they will fit with 18x8.5" ET 43 and extra caster from the LCAs.
With the stock alignment, 18x8.5 ET45, and 235/40 PSS, and the lowering springs, the front tires would touch the top screw when the suspension was compressed enough. The fender screw mod solved that issue. With this same setup and 245/40, I think there would likely be some rubbing; but that's being lowered.

Is your car lowered, or at stock height?
 

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With the stock alignment, 18x8.5 ET45, and 235/40 PSS, and the lowering springs, the front tires would touch the top screw when the suspension was compressed enough. The fender screw mod solved that issue. With this same setup and 245/40, I think there would likely be some rubbing; but that's being lowered.

Is your car lowered, or at stock height?
Stock height. Was thinking the extra camber from the LCAs might help a whee bit too.

I cannot decide on DG E( 3/4" drop) springs or dropping(ha) more coin on linear coilovers (BC/Forge). I have no desire to sit in the weeds, just hunker down the car a scosh, while keeping a majority of the stock comfort. To go down a rabbit hole, from a budget perspective for the cost of coilovers I could get DG springs and SuperPro Complete MQB Engine Mount Kit, which sounds like better option. But like the OP the adjustability of coilovers is appealing. Decsions...decisions.

To the OP sorry to derail your thread. :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Regarding the roll center adjustable ball joints, FWIW, I have the following installed on my car:
SuperPro Roll Center Adjusting Ball Joints.
Modded Euros: https://www.moddedeuros.com/product...joint-a3-jetta-golf-gti-rabbit-eos-r32-golf-r
SKU:106484
MPN:TRC0003

The local indy shop has installed two sets of these on 2016 GTIs. They fit perfectly.
It looks like Modded Euros indicates they're for 2015 only, but 2016 is the same chassis.
I understand the upcoming part will be TRC0009; but the ones I have fit just fine.
Since mine's a daily, the front camber is set at -1.3, vs the -.9 stock.
Makes a nice difference. Still stable on street, with better cornering grip at the track.
I looked into those, but it states they're not to be used with the SuperPro Control Arms. I guess they don't fit for some reason.
 

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I looked into those, but it states they're not to be used with the SuperPro Control Arms. I guess they don't fit for some reason.
That's my understanding as well. Sorry, I should have also noted that I have the stock control arms paired with the SuperPro ball joints.
 

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Soon as I am done with the OE AS I am looking into 245/40s, but like I posted on his MK7 thread, not sure how well they will fit with 18x8.5" ET 43 and extra caster from the LCAs.
Here's an interesting article on considerations for choosing a tire for performance: http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArtic...LY-select-and-size-TIRES-for-PERFORMANCE.aspx

The article points out that section width is a pretty useless measure because there is so much variation from manufacturer to manufacturer and even among the same tire model.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here's an interesting article on considerations for choosing a tire for performance: http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArtic...LY-select-and-size-TIRES-for-PERFORMANCE.aspx

The article points out that section width is a pretty useless measure because there is so much variation from manufacturer to manufacturer and even among the same tire model.
Pretty interesting.

I'm running a 17x8.5 with a 245/40 Michelin PSS. I should have enough room with the coil-overs as I'm not going super low. I drive my car year round so I need some sort of clearance for the winter.
 

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Pretty interesting.

I'm running a 17x8.5 with a 245/40 Michelin PSS. I should have enough room with the coil-overs as I'm not going super low. I drive my car year round so I need some sort of clearance for the winter.
Oh I recognize your car now! Love the look of your 17" bronze Volks, after seeing your setup the appearance(and lighter weight) of 17s with 245s seriously tempted me to go that route. Will most likely stay with 18" so I do not have to worry about PP brake clearance issues.

Cannot wait to see it when you get it back.
 
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