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Discussion Starter #1
My car dies suddenly when coming to a stop and sometimes when cruising and/or decelerating. It just sort of bogs down, sometimes it will restart right away and sometimes it will take several attempts.
I was able to limp it back home last night from work, but now it's not driveable. This started suddenly yesterday on my way to work.
Only notable things were that I washed the car earlier (with underflush) and that the temperatures dropped from the upper 20's to single digits.
When in movement, it almost feels as if fuel is getting cut off and a few seconds later it will run like a beast again. Sometimes I will crank it and it will run fine, only to not restart at all the next time.
It feels a lot like it is misfiring, but ignition components are fine too.
This is what I've done so far from searching the archives and what not:
-Removed fuel pump, cleaned and tested it. Seems OK
-Fuel filter is recent
-Voltage at the pump is between 12 and 14v.
-Fuel pressure gauge reads between 50 and 60 psi and holds pressure steady.
-FPR is newer Eurospec adjustable type.
-Checked pump fuse and relay.
-Cleaned MAF, swapped TPS, cleaned ISV, checked CTS, replaced CPS.
-Replaced coil.
-Put in new 109 relay.
-Cleaned ECU connector and main engine harness.
-tried a new ignition switch.
-Took injectors out and tested them.
I'm out of ideas

TIA


Modified by pacobonnin at 3:06 PM 1-8-2009


Modified by pacobonnin at 8:19 PM 1-11-2009
 

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Sounds like classic bucking bronco. Check the main plug in the engine bay above the transmission and the ECU plug for corrosion. One fix I saw was a guy added a temp ground wire from engine to battery terminal so scrub your grounds. Ever since I replaced my main ground cable my oil temps have dropped and my fuel economy has gone up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: (fredhogarth)

I just cleaned the main harness connection with no improvement. I'll do the ECU next and will rig an extra ground or two just for poops and giggles.
I reall need to sort this out today as I have no means of getting to work tomorrow... other than biking in single digit windchills
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: (pacobonnin)

I just did the above, and now I'm not getting spark. Not even the slightest purr when turning it over. Coil? ECU?
 

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Re: (boner)

ecm relay 109. ecm relay 109. ecm relay 109.
loose, failing, or seated improperly. a new relay by itself might help (they're 10-15 bucks) or it might still give you trouble if it's not "socketing" in place nice and tight. next time the problem occurs, fiddle around with the one you've got in there now and see if she don't fire right up. and yes, rain and cold seem to exacerbate the problem once it's set in.
i'd guess classic symptoms of ecm 109 for sure. many a fuel pump, maf, ecu, etc etc etc purchased, many a vacuum line, ground point, etc traced hunting down this beast, and it's almost always the cheap simple stuff. it especially hits cars which have had the fuse panel dropped for some reason (often stereo or alarm work) and the clips that hold it up under the dash frequently break, causing movement and disturbance that makes the problem worse with time. they are cheap at the dealer last time i checked. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: (roadtripper)

Put in a known working CPS and it actually started, although it idled rough and at very low rpm's. The spark is good too, but I bought an ABA coil just in case.
Is relay #109 interchangeable with 30/32? Bentley says there should be a 30 or 32 in there, but it is indeed a 109. I'll see if I can find one tomorrow. My car fits the description above to a T, down to the fuse panel being banging around for a while. I hate PO's
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: (xtremevdub)

That's the first thing I went for. Took it out, cleaned and tested it with a battery. I think that the fuel gauge would show it if the pressure was changing a lot?
I'm getting a new #109 first thing in the am. REALLY hoping that does it, otherwise
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Re: (fredhogarth)

Put in a new #109 with no luck. I also put in a new coil and cleaned the cap and rotor terms.
It starts intermittently, and when it does idles very erratically. If a pull a spark plug wire when running, it makes no difference, good or bad.
I'm thinking distributor is shot or ecu is effed.
This sucks
 

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Re: (pacobonnin)

not to hang on to false hope, but just in case, it's not just whether the realy itself is good or not once the panel drops and wires start to get pulled, sage, etc, it's whether the connection it's making is good and solid. especially in cold wet weather. while you are starting it or accelerating, try to reach up under there and actually wiggle/push that relay into place. sometimes the socketing action is a little loose and the connection is weak.
best of luck. either way, i am sure she will be back to normal soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Re: (roadtripper)

I just pulled down the fuse box and checked the connections. Nothing suspicious, just the usual vw wire or two that goes nowhere
 

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Re: (xtremevdub)

you mentioned an aba coil. is there one in there now? if so, that could be a source of your problem. i went thru 3 of them in as many years. they just can't handle the ignition frequency of the 6 cylinder. i now have a new oem bosch ignition module hooked up to an MSD blaster coil. under 100 bucks for the coil and mounting bracket and GM style wire connector for the connection to the dizzy. 2 years and 10 or so trackdays no issues.
if i ever lose the ignition module, i'll start looking at less expensive generic ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Re: (boner)

The coil is new and works fine. It makes no difference with the old or new one.
What are the symptoms of a bad distro?
 
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