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Discussion Starter #1
Hello....all of my prior VW exp. in racing has been with Mk2 Golfs,so I know very little about the rabbit/Rocco chassis.I have enough engine parts laying around that I could go either 8v or 16v;the car I just got has a JH head on a 3A 2.0L block with 350cfm carb.I would love to figure out how to put a dwndrft carb on a 16v but now it's just an idea.so any help you can give me on how to set this car up would be greatly appreciated.Thanks for reading!
Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK cool! I'll take one copy....lol..what is your paypal addy??
Maybe you'd want to look at the rules for my speedway first...The speedway I plan on running at is called Thunder Alley SpeedPark(in evans mills,ny);however they are using the same rules as adirondack speedway's "sport compact" class with a few updates...OK the first link is the rules from the previous speedway...
http://www.adirondackspeedway.com/rules_sportcompact.php
and the second link is from the current speedway,with a few updates of their own(in PDF format):
http://www.thunderalleyspeedpark.com/track-rules.asp
Adirondack had to close for awhile due to financial issues & property tax disputes.Take a look at those rules & get back to me with your paypal address;I'll be more than happy to buy a copy once you have reviewed the track rules.
Thanks again!
Ken R.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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We used a couple of sets of the race land struts. They are OK but will never copy the Bilstein.
Most of the rules dont allow threaded shock bodies. Spacers are OK and do the same thing. I spend the money on the Billys and the cheap coil adjusters. Keep in mind that they will get hit some times and replacement, will be necessary.
Any camber plates that will allow more castor will help. I use the plates for castor, taking camber at the knuckle joint. With an open strut top rule, I move the strut mount towards the windshield one inch. As much as the spring will move without hitting the tower.
Actual camber can vary widely per spring rate and tire adhesion. 3-7 degrees is typical.
The book tells how to measure and determine all of this.
Pay pall to the address on the sig. Thanks , MM
 

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If the rules allow the ABA head on the 1.8, go with that,. This is a 8500-9000rpm class and will cost some cash to get near the front.
The 16V/ Holley 500 could work but no way would it cover the 350# it needs to carry over the 1800# car.IMHO. If you could get it to run at 10000, maybe, but would have no exit torque.
Go with the lightest car and work on the turn speed .Tthe cost will be a lot less in the long run ,RE: tires and engine combo. make sure that the LS weight is spot on and that the finish weight is near 5# over.
MM
 

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Discussion Starter #10
why is caster just as important as camber? I thought adjusting caster wouldn't give any benefits.Please enlighten me on this,before I bolt in my camber plates & cant change it....lol...
 

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Castor adds camber as the wheel is turned, allowing less static camber. It also adds crossweight onto the RR a liitle as the wheel is turned. Less camber rolls cleaner. You still may need 5-7* of camber depending on spring rate and other rules. MM
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ahhhh ok I get it...so where do I line up the camber plates on the shock towers to allow for this?? Im assuming Im gonna have to trim some more of the shock tower than normal to allow the top as close towards the firewall as possible.BTW I bought camber plates from eurosport acc.I also have coil overs coming in from raceland,as this will allow me to put in more caster than running stock struts.I know you'd rather have me put in billy HD's,but I couldnt pass up that deal.Im thinking maybe though I may run out of room to mount the camber plates as I move the plate towards the firewall.Say I start at the centerline w/o figuring caster & then how much do I move the plates?
I got PT1 of your racing guide & the crap supps,but not pt2;did u send it out yet?
Here is the website for the speedway....
http://www.thunderalleyspeedpark.com/
Im hoping to run in the 'thunder car' class part-time before I move up into the 'sport compact' class
Another question-I want to install the 1.8L 16v engine in the car & want to run it on cis basic( i have heard of people on the vortex here do this) but what would be the best warm up reg/control press.reg to use with this setup? what car would I get it from?
Thanks for your help so far!
Ken
 

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I move the strut tops about 1 in max, toward the glass. Any more than that and the bump steer gets way out of range. It is not any good as it is ..
Dont go crazy with the strut tops. You still need ton get the dynamic camber working the tire /spring rate combination, that is allowed by the rules.
The rules state very little, Nothing regarding the susupension or even engine mods. When the list is that short,does it mean that there are no rules? or that no modifications are aloowed?
Check with the track before you add all that stuff.
The 16V can work with any CIS setup . Run the warmup reg on the core support , unplugged, and trim the fuel about 1/4 turn run rich at hot idle. Watch the plugs all of the time, looking for a hot cyl. . Balance the injectors, etc.
MM
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK thanks Mike...is there a particular WUR that would work better in my situtation than others(as far as allowing more fuel by-???) What VW/Audi would be the best to pull this part from? BTW I just bought these camber plates;I think I'll run with these for now instead of the eurosport ones.......

They look alot easier to install,and they should work OK with my raceland coilovers.I'm aware that it looks like they may not allow any caster,unless I cut some of the strut tower out towards the glass.I just want to get the car together & later I can add that caster mod.Thanks again!
Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I move the strut tops about 1 in max, toward the glass. Any more than that and the bump steer gets way out of range. It is not any good as it is ..
Dont go crazy with the strut tops. You still need ton get the dynamic camber working the tire /spring rate combination, that is allowed by the rules.
The rules state very little, Nothing regarding the susupension or even engine mods. When the list is that short,does it mean that there are no rules? or that no modifications are aloowed?
Check with the track before you add all that stuff.
The 16V can work with any CIS setup . Run the warmup reg on the core support , unplugged, and trim the fuel about 1/4 turn run rich at hot idle. Watch the plugs all of the time, looking for a hot cyl. . Balance the injectors, etc.
MM
when you say run the wur unplugged;do you mean either the vacuum hose or the electrical plug(or both?)
yeah the rules are pretty wide open;if they think I have too many mods for a particular class they just bump me up a class.besides they are so worried about getting enough cars to show up they wouldn't care-unless I start winning all the time...lol....
 

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No heat to the WUR, no vac. Keep it cold. Cold = lower pressure and more fuel /less resistance to opening.
You will need to trim it leaner by a half turn or more , if you get it cool enough to make a difference. >MM
 

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you can mount your wur away from the block and run wires to it thru a rheostat and vary the current that goes to it, allowing you to change the fuel pressure from the seat. use a wideband to figure out where you want your fuel mixture, and adjust as needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The rules state very little, Nothing regarding the susupension or even engine mods. When the list is that short,does it mean that there are no rules? or that no modifications are aloowed?
Check with the track before you add all that stuff.
MM
Hey Mike;those rules for thunder alley are just supplemental rules just for that speedway;here are the main rules they follow;these are from adirondack speedway....please check these out...
http://www.adirondackspeedway.com/rules_sportcompact.php
thanks for your time Mike!
Ken
 

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Those are wide open. Any carb, any cam. The big Rochester or Holley 500 should be pretty good. Can you run two carbs? That class should be very fast and expensive.
I see you looking @ the 16V stuff. The weight is 360# higher. ?
I would take the 8V @ 1800#. 288 cam, big springs, cut flywheel, Holy 500 or Roch, ARP rod bolts. Gear for 8800 top rpm. Block prep per my book. angle cut the head,etc.
edit; Old thread, said the same thing twice. hey at least I'm consistent,
MM
 
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