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Discussion Starter #1
Before I try to find some shop locally, I figured I would check on here.


I have an aluminum intake manifold for my R32 which has a removable plenum cover. I would like to have a few spacers made to go underneath this cover to raise it up.

I am going to dyno it normally, than put on a spacer/gasket/longer bolts and redyno.

If it makes any gain, I am going to add another spacer and repeat.

If more gains, then another spacer and repeat.


I'm not too concerned with what the spacers are made from. Could be aluminum, could be some sort of high temp plastic.






 

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Discussion Starter #6
Because in the mean time I can use the gasket to drive the car?


I suppose I could use RTV to seal it up instead.


BTW- I won't need the holes drilled, I can do that manually to save you the work time and cost.

I am looking to have several spacers made as I am planning on testing several volumes.


Ideally I would like a 1/2 inch, 1 inch and 2 inch spacer. Depending on material costs, I may even go crazy and add a 3 inch onto that.


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 

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Because in the mean time I can use the gasket to drive the car?


I suppose I could use RTV to seal it up instead.


BTW- I won't need the holes drilled, I can do that manually to save you the work time and cost.

I am looking to have several spacers made as I am planning on testing several volumes.


Ideally I would like a 1/2 inch, 1 inch and 2 inch spacer. Depending on material costs, I may even go crazy and add a 3 inch onto that.


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
Id just order a gasket for whoever is doing the job tbh, it will save you a load of time, and they can map it directly on the mill table, or measure by hand with the reassurance it will be spot on. Id let them drill the holes - they may need to use 6/8 holes for fixing the part down to a base for milling anyway(if you cant get jet cut)

Brian,

a 50mm spacer will be mega bucks if they dont have a use for the cutout bit rightaway.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
There is no gasket to be ordered. This is the only manifold of it's type in existence. It was a factory prototype for testing purposes before VW ever produced the plastic manifolds that came on the R32.


Regarding the bits- I'm no machinist, but couldn't the depth be cut in many stages?
 

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There is no gasket to be ordered. This is the only manifold of it's type in existence. It was a factory prototype for testing purposes before VW ever produced the plastic manifolds that came on the R32.


Regarding the bits- I'm no machinist, but couldn't the depth be cut in many stages?
Sorry, didnt spot that - thought they were all like that under a cover(or something)

If you take a 50mm spacer from a 50mm thick piece of billet then the bit you take out of the middle will be 'waste' if that shop has no direct use for the inside bit,

Brian,
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm cool with multiple 1/2 and stacking. I would want probably 6 of them then.

Some sort of high temp plastic is fine as well.


Any idea what something like that would cost and the turnaround time?
 

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Just a heads up on poly - its not as cheap as some guys think, I dont mean that in a smartass way but check it out before banking on it,

http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/HDPE_Sheet_1000_x_500_x_25mm__Natural___-45844-p

http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Acetal_Sheet_500mm_x_250mm_x_25mm__Natural_White_-37874-p

Also beware with some polys even the glass filled ones that creep can be a major issue - that is the plastic deforming under the clamping pressure of the bolts over time and the bolts then getting loose. All coolant flanges I am aware of have a steel ferrules pressed in to take the clamp loads from bolts.

I think your best best is water jet from 12mm - Id get them to jet holes too, as boring that many holes in all the right place is not an easy task.

As for a template, get a sheet of paper and tape to intake - go over the edges and holes with a dirty finger(think after changing a wheel) and it will highlight all the points of importance for you.

Brian,
 

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Just a heads up on poly - its not as cheap as some guys think, I dont mean that in a smartass way but check it out before banking on it,

http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/HDPE_Sheet_1000_x_500_x_25mm__Natural___-45844-p

http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Acetal_Sheet_500mm_x_250mm_x_25mm__Natural_White_-37874-p

Also beware with some polys even the glass filled ones that creep can be a major issue - that is the plastic deforming under the clamping pressure of the bolts over time and the bolts then getting loose. All coolant flanges I am aware of have a steel ferrules pressed in to take the clamp loads from bolts.

I think your best best is water jet from 12mm - Id get them to jet holes too, as boring that many holes in all the right place is not an easy task.

As for a template, get a sheet of paper and tape to intake - go over the edges and holes with a dirty finger(think after changing a wheel) and it will highlight all the points of importance for you.

Brian,
I did check prices and Flame-Retardant Polypropylene is $100 cheaper for a 2' square at 1/2" than an alum plate (same size) and will hold up to 200deg F. But it was just a suggestion. I have never tried to make intake spacers like this before let alone out of plastic.
I can definitely cut the holes with the waterjet and the paper suggestion is what I was referring to also. Its tough to take measurements off cardboard.
 

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I did check prices and Flame-Retardant Polypropylene is $100 cheaper for a 2' square at 1/2" than an alum plate (same size) and will hold up to 200deg F. But it was just a suggestion. I have never tried to make intake spacers like this before let alone out of plastic.
I can definitely cut the holes with the waterjet and the paper suggestion is what I was referring to also. Its tough to take measurements off cardboard.
Sounds like you're the man for the job then:thumbup::beer:

Brian,
 
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