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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i am not sure whether to post here or in the 2.0 section.

i don't know how to remove the tensioner yet, but to release the tension on the belt does the engine mount have to come off? i'll have to learn how to do that first if so.

i can see one hole and feel the other.

i don't know how it works yet - if the tension is adjuster by loosening the bolt and moving the two holes to the desired tension then locking it in place by tightening the bolt or what.

i am also not sure how old the tensioner is, whether it needs to be replaced.

thanks
 

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1999 Golf GTI 2.slow, 2001 Golf GTI 1.8t
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Replace the tensioner every time you do the timing belt, which should be every 60k.

You'll need to remove the motor mount and the motor mount bracket which is bolted to the block while supporting the engine.

Plenty of guides if you do a search.
 

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^ as said, do the tensioner every time you do the belt. I would also just get a full timing belt kit with all the necessary bolts, etc. Several bolts for the job are stretch bolts and should be replaced after you remove them, like the ones for the motor mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
^ as said, do the tensioner every time you do the belt. I would also just get a full timing belt kit with all the necessary bolts, etc. Several bolts for the job are stretch bolts and should be replaced after you remove them, like the ones for the motor mount.
i need to know the stretch bolts and how to safely jack the engine.

can i remove tension on the belt to get the head off with the engine mount still in place?
i need to know if the problem really is bent valves first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Replace the tensioner every time you do the timing belt, which should be every 60k.

You'll need to remove the motor mount and the motor mount bracket which is bolted to the block while supporting the engine.

Plenty of guides if you do a search.
free or around $35?
which is the best written?
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i am not sure whether to post here or in the 2.0 section.

i don't know how to remove the tensioner yet, but to release the tension on the belt does the engine mount have to come off? i'll have to learn how to do that first if so.

i can see one hole and feel the other.

i don't know how it works yet - if the tension is adjuster by loosening the bolt and moving the two holes to the desired tension then locking it in place by tightening the bolt or what.

i am also not sure how old the tensioner is, whether it needs to be replaced.

thanks
i just saw on a video a guy said to loosen the 13 mm bolt then push the tensioner pulley back to release tension so that helps me, but you all seem to be saying the mount has to come off to put a new tensioner back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The best would be the service manual by Bentley Publishers.
thanks. i figured there wer at least haynes, vw, chilton, bentley, and i don't know how many others. the diagrams from elsewhere on the internet help identify parts. one of the studs (the far right) beneath the battery holder broke off so i need to identify it.. those diagrams help. the nuts on those studs have tall rounded caps and look like they are grounding connections to the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
LOL the one you found is the best that is written. Have you even searched, attempted to search or trying to trick some one to do the work for you, just enjoying the spoon feeding ? whats your story here ?
it is clear from this thread that the tb tensioner needs to be changed if the car can be fixed, but how fast i can get the head to the shop.. not so clear till i saw the video.

my car is rusted at that jack point so i am not sure where to jack or use jack stands (the subframe looks the strongest) but the engine must be supported somehow while taking out the engine mount and a couple of those bolts look like they have to come out from under the car which would help if the car is raised

i am not just trying to soup up my car. i am stranded and need to get it operable if possible. what i have seen service manual-wise has not been easy reading. some videos have helped a lot and here.. some people just know things and shortcuts. someone who has changed a tensioner several times knows a lot better how it works than i who never have done it. but i am learning now. one guy in a video named all the parts he was working with as he disconnected or removed each. different engine type, but i may now know where my cam and crank position sensors are.

from this thread so far i did not know if the mount came off to release some tension from the belt. the video i just saw showed and told me how easy it was to do - pre-mount removal. i was in a car parts store today and no one there had ever put on a tb tensioner. one video said the vw recommended head bolt torque did not work, that they had to go to 60 ft-lbs to get good compression. if that is true.. i would not be able to find that in a service manual (at least not the vw service manual). so i know i don't know enough and i look for assistance in various places. one tech i did not know helped by cracking loose the throttle body triple square bolts with his little-used triple square socket. i did not "trick" him. one poster here gave me a link to a good diagram. i am going back to that website to try to find a different one that may show a part i broke so i can better describe what it is then start to find out how to fix or work around it.

you try searching this site and see how fast you can figure out where exactly the crankshaft position sensor is. i think you are expected to already know, but someone with my engine type that knows can just say so if they want to.
 

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I would just do everything by the Bentley service manual. Theres a specific section for timing belt and tensioner install.

Crankshaft position sensor is #8 in this diagram.

It's located behind the oil filter. See section 13a-2 of the Bentley, item 23.
 

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it is clear from this thread that the tb tensioner needs to be changed if the car can be fixed, but how fast i can get the head to the shop.. not so clear till i saw the video.

my car is rusted at that jack point so i am not sure where to jack or use jack stands (the subframe looks the strongest) but the engine must be supported somehow while taking out the engine mount and a couple of those bolts look like they have to come out from under the car which would help if the car is raised

i am not just trying to soup up my car. i am stranded and need to get it operable if possible. what i have seen service manual-wise has not been easy reading. some videos have helped a lot and here.. some people just know things and shortcuts. someone who has changed a tensioner several times knows a lot better how it works than i who never have done it. but i am learning now. one guy in a video named all the parts he was working with as he disconnected or removed each. different engine type, but i may now know where my cam and crank position sensors are.

from this thread so far i did not know if the mount came off to release some tension from the belt. the video i just saw showed and told me how easy it was to do - pre-mount removal. i was in a car parts store today and no one there had ever put on a tb tensioner. one video said the vw recommended head bolt torque did not work, that they had to go to 60 ft-lbs to get good compression. if that is true.. i would not be able to find that in a service manual (at least not the vw service manual). so i know i don't know enough and i look for assistance in various places. one tech i did not know helped by cracking loose the throttle body triple square bolts with his little-used triple square socket. i did not "trick" him. one poster here gave me a link to a good diagram. i am going back to that website to try to find a different one that may show a part i broke so i can better describe what it is then start to find out how to fix or work around it.

you try searching this site and see how fast you can figure out where exactly the crankshaft position sensor is. i think you are expected to already know, but someone with my engine type that knows can just say so if they want to.
yeah if you state that in the beginning every one would have helped you... including pointing you to a post that have the bently manual scanned, it's here. on this sub forum some where from two years ago... but your posts does seem that you didn't do any search.

if you can't find a specific post, youtube is the best, there are few youtuber that work specific on VWs. they might have your version of 2.0 specific videos. the one on the sticky is for AEG, but the tensioner is the same thing... two holes needed a pin wrench. that is capable of 17mm between center,,, I believe it's a 3mm hole. How ever you want to improvise it from using a paper clip or needle nose pliers... you don't need the pin wrench to take off the timing belt tensioner, but you do need it to install and tension the timing belt, that is the same for AEG or BEV.. you install belt , make sure everything tick mark aligns and when you are ready, tighten the tensioner when the arrow aligns with the tick mark on that tensioner and tight the 10mm bolt. this is where the pin wrench is needed. or your improvised wrench.

as far as jacking the car and removing the engine side mount, it is the same for AEG and BEV I think... jack up car, place car on jack stand, use a engine support bar to hold engine in place, and remove engine mount. .... or ghetto it if you are comfortable jack engine up with a piece of wood as a cushion and a jack. make sure it is stable and secure, remove engine mount.

Crankshaft position sensor is at the oil cooler/oil filter area.. the cam shaft position sensor is some where else for some car if they have it..

so if you have not review the sticky form timing belt changes , at least do it for the AEG 2.0 post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I would just do everything by the Bentley service manual. Theres a specific section for timing belt and tensioner install.

Crankshaft position sensor is #8 in this diagram.

It's located behind the oil filter. See section 13a-2 of the Bentley, item 23.
when i find the right download will study it thanks. thanks for the link too. gotta go for now
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
yeah if you state that in the beginning every one would have helped you... including pointing you to a post that have the bently manual scanned, it's here. on this sub forum some where from two years ago... but your posts does seem that you didn't do any search.

if you can't find a specific post, youtube is the best, there are few youtuber that work specific on VWs. they might have your version of 2.0 specific videos. the one on the sticky is for AEG, but the tensioner is the same thing... two holes needed a pin wrench. that is capable of 17mm between center,,, I believe it's a 3mm hole. How ever you want to improvise it from using a paper clip or needle nose pliers... you don't need the pin wrench to take off the timing belt tensioner, but you do need it to install and tension the timing belt, that is the same for AEG or BEV.. you install belt , make sure everything tick mark aligns and when you are ready, tighten the tensioner when the arrow aligns with the tick mark on that tensioner and tight the 10mm bolt. this is where the pin wrench is needed. or your improvised wrench.

as far as jacking the car and removing the engine side mount, it is the same for AEG and BEV I think... jack up car, place car on jack stand, use a engine support bar to hold engine in place, and remove engine mount. .... or ghetto it if you are comfortable jack engine up with a piece of wood as a cushion and a jack. make sure it is stable and secure, remove engine mount.

Crankshaft position sensor is at the oil cooler/oil filter area.. the cam shaft position sensor is some where else for some car if they have it..

so if you have not review the sticky form timing belt changes , at least do it for the AEG 2.0 post.
this is long and getting harder to read. i cannot find these stickies you reference - which specific vw forum are they pinned to the top of?? where is "timing belt changes" and "AEG 2.0"?

doesn't the car have to be up higher than supporting the engine alone to get the lower engine mount bolts out? is the subframe an ok place to jack up and put jack stands? the lower control arm does not look ok. i will support the engine with wood if need be.

thanks. i do not know how to test the position sensors off the car. i am right now hoping that they are both fine. i don't know if a vw sometimes throws a code when the part is really alright and something else is wrong.

i am not touching that tensioner until i get the marks in place. i was going to mark the belt at cam TDC and another place where the belt touches the cam sprocket along with the cam itself then also mark the belt and the crank cog in a couple of places. i will try not to turn the cam or crank when i pull those cogs off to change the seals. not sure how to do that yet, i am learning. my not changing the timing belt sooner likely got me in this mess so it is fitting that to get out of this mess i have to learn how to change a timing belt properly - a handy skill to have! a pin wrench is new to me i will check it out. yes youtube has really helped. thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
this is long and getting harder to read. i cannot find these stickies you reference - which specific vw forum are they pinned to the top of?? where is "timing belt changes" and "AEG 2.0"?

doesn't the car have to be up higher than supporting the engine alone to get the lower engine mount bolts out? is the subframe an ok place to jack up and put jack stands? the lower control arm does not look ok. i will support the engine with wood if need be.

thanks. i do not know how to test the position sensors off the car. i am right now hoping that they are both fine. i don't know if a vw sometimes throws a code when the part is really alright and something else is wrong.

i am not touching that tensioner until i get the marks in place. i was going to mark the belt at cam TDC and another place where the belt touches the cam sprocket along with the cam itself then also mark the belt and the crank cog in a couple of places. i will try not to turn the cam or crank when i pull those cogs off to change the seals. not sure how to do that yet, i am learning. my not changing the timing belt sooner likely got me in this mess so it is fitting that to get out of this mess i have to learn how to change a timing belt properly - a handy skill to have! a pin wrench is new to me i will check it out. yes youtube has really helped. thank you.
i just now got the correct bentley manual and just found a sticky that looks important enough to be sticky #1 so i don't skip it if i see things like what did you do today first. is this it?
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i have pulled apart so many things at this point that i wonder what all takes a sealant in addition to a new gasket and all the way around top and bottom or just the corners - oil pan, valve cover, throttle body, exhaust & intake manifolds, head gasket, water pump, cam and crank seals, etc. i am going through the sticky and the bentley manual to see what all is said. for someone new the most important things should be up top
 

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doesn't the car have to be up higher than supporting the engine alone to get the lower engine mount bolts out? is the subframe an ok place to jack up and put jack stands? the lower control arm does not look ok. i will support the engine with wood if need be.
If you are just taking the engine mount off for the purpose of replacing the timing belt, I don’t think so. Just high enough you can do work. Make sure you know your reference marks. And rotate twice with the spark plugs out and check that it matches all the marks. Double check if you have to.
There is also a timing mark on the transmission bell housing, for manual or auto it is there. It’s documented in Bentley also, but a dinky pic and 2 sentences.
If I remember correctly the passenger side front wheel cowling also comes off and wheel will make your life a bit easier. Just double check your engine support is solid.

i don’t remember anything about the valve cover came off at all, timing belt upper and lower cover yes, valve cover no
Intake maninfols came off because I need to take out spark plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well, the valve cover came off because i am going for the head as i think it is bent valves that need to be fixed but all this is causing me to learn the very thing that i should have done earlier: changed the timing belt sooner. all this research is causing me to think my 2.0 is the slowest thing on this website. i must have found that sticky you meant. i read the whole 1.8 today. that seems fancier than mine. i almost pulled the timing belt off the cam sprocket today but caught a look of my current tensioner setting. the bentley manual says to line up those two prongs. i took a pic with a mirror and my two are off (see pic with lines i drew). that being off like that cannot cause a car to run horrible and not be able to keep running - correct?

ok so i have an automatic transmission and would really like to see that mark but there is no protective plug covering that hole. it just looks like rusty metal below. so how can i clean it up? steel wool?. i have some rusty brackets and fasteners that apple cider vinegar is eating the rust off of. i would like to see a close up of what that mark should look like - is it raised or a notch. i would like to see a real-life picture of a BEV 2.0 AT window to compare to.


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Tension mark slightly misaligned like that should be fine. The belt may have slightly stretched after 60k.

Just check the mark at the harmonic dampener like I mentioned in the other thread. The Bentley has you do the final check at the dampener as described at the bottom of 15c-21.

They probably have you check at the transmission so you don't have to put the lower timing cover and balancer back on.

If your engine hasn't jumped time, then you probably don't have to pull the head.
 

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i need to know the stretch bolts and how to safely jack the engine.

can i remove tension on the belt to get the head off with the engine mount still in place?
i need to know if the problem really is bent valves first.
Do NOT remove timing belt tensioner if you do not already know exactly what you are doing.
Before you remove tensioner, you have to ensure the crank is on top dead center, of cylinder 1, not 3, so you have to also understand the crankshaft TDC mark comes up twice, once for cylinder 1 and once for cylinder 3, so you need to also look at the camshaft.
But you do NOT remove the belt tensioner in order to check for bent valves.
The way to test for bent valves is by removing valve cover and seeing which valves are not returning up all the way.
Bent valves stay open.
You can also do a cylinder leak down or compression test.

Before removing anything, you need to put engine at TDC of cylinder1, so you can then restore engine later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Do NOT remove timing belt tensioner if you do not already know exactly what you are doing.
Before you remove tensioner, you have to ensure the crank is on top dead center, of cylinder 1, not 3, so you have to also understand the crankshaft TDC mark comes up twice, once for cylinder 1 and once for cylinder 3, so you need to also look at the camshaft.
But you do NOT remove the belt tensioner in order to check for bent valves.
The way to test for bent valves is by removing valve cover and seeing which valves are not returning up all the way.
Bent valves stay open.
You can also do a cylinder leak down or compression test.

Before removing anything, you need to put engine at TDC of cylinder1, so you can then restore engine later.
so i haven't moved it yet cause i saw in a mirror that the tensioner v and the tensioner arrow were not lined up like the bentley manual says they should be when put on. i don't know if that offset can explain any timing issues. so as i have been finding TDC, i have been checking how high the pistons are: at TDC, 1 and 4 were at a depth of 3.5 cm if i remember correctly, and 2 and 3 were at a depth of 13.25 cm. i expected them all to be different and was surprised when they were paired like that (this is the BEV 2.0 AT). i was going to move the tensioner to release tension on the belt to get the head out and let the engine shop check it out and swap valves. the thing is inoperable. it would not start or run without a replacement tb. when i got the new tb on it started and ran horribly and would not stay running. so yes, cam TDC is lined up and crank TDC is with the piston high in cylinder 1 (i don't know why it is the same height in cylinder 4. i count the cylinders 1 through 4 straight across from left to right (American passenger to driver side) as you are bent over the engine). i doubt the engine would be so messed up that the cylinders would randomly work in pairs.. i guess that is this engine's design.

even if a valve is very slightly bent it can easily be seen with the valve cover off by hand cranking it around? if i am working on my own should is still be able to notice. the intake valve stems look straight to me is about all i can tell.
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