Neuspeed chip problems......on going saga

Hi Dan (aka Mr. VW)
I'm aware that you called in later today to speak to Shelby in customer service, but she was stuck on the line with another customer. The number we have for you must be your work number, so I'm going to reply directly on the forum right now. However, for the fastest response, please call in or email us. We don't get much free time to cruise the forums.
I'm familiar with the problem you've reported with your car not reaching the full 1 bar of boost. The reason why we are asking you questons about the exhaust, the wastegate, etc. is because we don't have the benefit of working on you car here in California. As a result, our entire troubleshooting list has to take place by phone, and we are relying on you exclusively for all the tech information.
First, we want to make sure you don't have a leak on the pressure side of the intake system or at the wastegate, as Marc mentioned in the previous post. These are the most obvious culprits in a "low boost" situation.
Second, we need you to have your ECU scanned for fault codes at your local dealer. You had mentioned that your car actually went into "limp home" mode after you made a few full throttle runs. Typically the ECU will revert to a limp home or safe mode to save the motor when it sees a high boost spike. So, if your boost gauge is still reading a maximum of 12 psi, but you're pegging the factory limp-home mode boost limit, your boost gauge may be off calibration or you may actually have a leak in the air tube plumbing leading to the gauge.
After you or your mechanic eliminates the non-software possibilities such as the wastegate or the intake plumbing, then we can move onto the software. It's easy enough for us to raise the boost on the software. We just need your computer back here to perform the modification. Our hesistancy to simply raise the boost FIRST, before you've confirmed that the mechanical side of the system is functioning properly, is that ultimately a non-software problem could still exist and cause you further problems.
We are not criticizing your mechanic. We just want someone there in Cincinnati to help you cover all the bases before you yank the ECU out to send it across the country.
You can always email me directly at [email protected], but it appears you already have a steady dialogue underway with Shelby and Shawn in our customer service department.
Best Regards
Greg Woo
Neuspeed

I, too, have the Neuspeed P-chip in my car. I don't know if the "variable-boost" thing is true or not but I haven't had any major issues with the software. The highest boost that my car has spiked at was 18-19psi. Then it would steady out at 14-15psi. After 5000rpms it would run down to about 12-13psi. Possibly the variable-boost? Not sure, but it seems normal with no surging (I have the Forge 006 DV).
Before I had the Forge DV I ran the car with the ghetto home made BOV. When I would reconnect to the OEM DV after a while of driving I would hit limp mode. I would shut the car off and it would hit limp mode again after 10 minutes. After a while it stopped and the car has been running normal ever since.
I am considering a different chip in the near future. But I am currently happy with the Neuspeed chip. The only reason I am thinking about switching is that I want a more agressive programming for my car.

Re: Neuspeed chip problems......on going saga (youseelabruin)

Dan & I have been communicating off the forum for the last week because it's faster that way. However, earlier in this thread I noticed a few Neuspeed-bashers wanted to come out and play. So rather than keep this information a secret, I'll share it with the forum so anyone who's interested some lower-level technical diagnostics can learn a few new tricks.
To summarize what we've worked on, Dan's mechanic inspected the pressure side of his intake system because his ECU fault code was a 17964 "Negative Charge Pressure Deviation." Typically this means that there is pressure leak somewhere in the system. However, Dan's mechanic was unable to find any pressure leaks.
Next we asked him to double checked the accuracy of his boost gauge. As mentioned in his earlier posting, he is only registering a maximum of 12psi. Dan has a VDO gauge in his car that he's been using to monitor boost pressure. (By the way, he has a C-code ecu which we do not "overspike" the boost on our program.) Anyways, getting back to the boost gauge issue, there are two ways to test the boost using factory VW tools:
Method (1): Hook up the 1551 scan tool to your scan port. Start up the car, and turn on the scan tool. Go to section 01 "engine electronics." Then proceed to section 08, "measuring blocks." Then proceed to block 115, "charge pressure." You will see 4 columns of data displayed on the screen. Perform several full throttle acceleration pulls in 3rd gear with someone else monitoring the highest values that appear in column #4. Column 4 displays the actual boost in milibar. To convert to bar, move the decimal place two figures to the right.
Method (2): Use the VAG1397/A digital boost pressure gauge. Connect the VAG1397 to the vacuum line of the fuel pressure regulator. Accelerate at full throttle from 1500rpm in third gear. Have your assistant record the highest milibar reading he sees on the gauge. Again, convert to bar by moving the decimal place two figures to the right. BTW, method (2) is the preferred measuring device.
Anyways, Dan's mechanic said he performed the boost pressure test and still came up with only 12psi of boost maximum. So, we moved onto two more component tests which we are waiting on the results from. We asked Dan's mechanic to measure the resistance on the wastegate bypass regulator valve. This
is the valve that is upstream from the wastegate and controls the opening & closing of the wastegate. (The car should NOT be running for this test.) The valve has a 2-spade plug on the backside of it. Measure and record the resistance (in Ohms) across both terminals of the plug. The proper resistance value for APH/AWD engines should be 25 to 35 Ohms.
We also need his mechanic to check the recirculating valve (aka-bypass valve) located just to the right of valve cover. To test, switch the ignition off, remove the harness connector from the valve and measure the resistance between the two terminals. The proper resistance value should be 25 to 35 Ohms.
If all of the above components are functioning properly, then we can retrieve Dan's ECU and raise the boost values on the program.
Greg Woo
NEUSPEED



[Modified by NEUSPEED, 10:21 AM 12-12-2001]

Re: Neuspeed chip problems......on going saga (ezekial)

People are really quick to bash Neuspeed but after reading these forums for the last year I know that just about any chipped and unchipped car has had its problems... Many people here carry the same attitudes as the dealerships that they bash for not being mod friendly by blaming a brand of intake or chip without considering the system as a whole and all the other variables involved. To focus specifically on ECU's, I know there have been issues with chipping in general right across the board... most of which are worked out given some time.
All I can say about my "Nospeed" chip is that it has been reliable and very driveable. I don't plan on re-chipping until my engine (turbo) configuration changes... fwiw, I'm currently at 199hp/221ftlbs @ the wheels.