VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum banner
1 - 20 of 40 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,494 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My emkay4 GLI was in a wreck (not my fault) and I retained it for parts and took the little bit of money the insurance gave me. Scoured the internet and local classifieds for another or similar and came across an Audi. It was about 2 hours away and I took the gamble to go have a look. I lowballed $700 less and he bit and I did, too. Looks to be a head gasket and has all the classic symptoms.

Compressions: #1-170, #2-105, #3-150, #4-170

#2


Everything else works except the HVAC flapper, which I hope is just some foam debris holding it up, but it is in the best position for AC in the south. All 5 matching wheels, covers and screen in storage area work, both keys, plastic key, as well as key number, dealer maintenance logged to 100k, car is at 190k, cupholder works, glovebox did but is now broken by me, about it.

So on the short list is to deck head, head gasket, new head bolts, timing belt, water pump, and new valve cover gaskets. Coolant flush, engine oil flush, and change both diffs fluid and tranny fluid. Then go from there.


Parked behind a Raising Cane’s on the way home.
 
  • Like
Reactions: watercooledbeast

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,494 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Door speakers replaced. Tackled head gasket job and was surprised with a cracked AMB head. So I robbed the head off the AWP wrecked GLI and got it going. Still multiple DTCs and ABS alarm/lights.

Went with a manual tensioner, new water pump, and a couple of engine fluid flushes before calling it good. Car pulls good but continues with the v39 ABS pump DTC. So I tried a non Bentley method and removed the ABS motor. Cleaned it internally with an air hose then some MAF spray and all looked OK so I put it back together. It didn’t throw an alarm until the end of my driveway. So there’s a chance….

Got the airbag, misfires, pressure drop between turbo and throttle body, and a few various others squared away finally. It’ll hold 8-10psi like it’s supposed to and no sputtering now.

I removed the rear wheels yesterday to see how involved swapping out the saggy rear springs would be and OMG is it every bit complicated compared to other vehicles I’ve owned over the years. Anyone have luck with the macpherson type coil spring compressor? I happened to have a set of 20mm wheel spacers and extended lugs so I put those on. Looks better for sure.

Pre rear spacers. 5% ceramic for back doors back and eyebrow. 15% on the front doors. I also did my current commuter Tacoma with ceramic tint on the doors and it is hands down the best investment for sunny areas. Outside temps were mid 60s so no AC or heat going. Windows crack and loving life you could feel the radiant heat between direct sun and the tinted section. Couldn’t do that with the previous cheap tint…from the same tint shop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,494 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Next up is deciding on a single or double din headunit. The original has died for some reason and I tried a single din but it did not produce near the quality of the OEM unit with the new 4ohm speakers. So it would need to be direct wired and lose the factory sub. But I believe I can pull the sub and possibly get an 8or10” shallow mount in there. Maybe even cut the cubby out of the driver side and get a regular sub in there by countersinking it slightly below deck level.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mellofello9

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,494 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Put the S6 sedan springs in the back this morning. Increased ride height 16mm and almost leveled out. Lemme get the front wheel back on after I replace the hood latch cable and I’ll snap a pic. Maybe just placebo but it feels better as well. These will likely “settle” more and that’s OK. The top bushing wasn’t a snug fit and I’ll be ordering a proper A6 bushing. I’ll come up with some sort of spacer to stick inbetween the bushing and body to raise it another 5 or 10mm depending on any potential sag in the next weeks/months.

A4 B6 Avant - 282mm tall and 15.5mm coil
S6 sedan - 260mm tall and 16.5mm coil







 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,494 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So currently fresh off the jackstands and about 6 miles of driving on them it still sits higher in the front. These numbers pulled from top of center cap to bottom of fender and then 30mm added to length to get exact center of hub (60mm centercap).

LF-398mm
LR-376mm
RF-392mm
RR-368mm

 
  • Like
Reactions: cbaumy34

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,494 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Had decided to sell this but wife talked me into keeping it. I really don’t know why even though I know it’ll be a money pit for 4-6 months. So I figure I’ll set aside what I’d pay on a used car note and buy what I need/want.

First off, those wheels bother me. I did a fair amount of looking around and some of the late model Jeep Cherokees had 5on110 wheels. What’s 2mm amongst studs? Same size and offset as well just they used an m12 and not m14 stud. I located a set I liked and price I like en route to my house from work. Swung by and had a look and sure enough I can work with them. Bought them and brought them home. Brought out a m14 lug bolt, my cordless drill, and a stepper bit. Opened up the hole until the m14 passed. The way they seat is there is a larger, maybe 16mm holes seat, and then below was the 12mm restriction. I never opened the seat only the area underneath. Ordered some 57.1 to 65.1 hub centric rings and they fit the wheel as well as a loose spacer I have. Now for some tires soon enough.

I was wanting to raise it a little and run a 215/65-17 AT but I think I’ll hold off until I can source a matching spare. Immediately on the radar is a new o2 sensor as my old one keeps throwing 16514/p0130. It’s just the heating portion but even after being ran for 30min it idles like poo when cleared. Getting a 17522 for rear o2 but it’s not even screwed in ATM. And the ever recurring 17705 pressure drop. Thinking my 007 may need tending to or maybe out the OEM back in just to verify. Tires, sort squat issue, radio, suspension arms, turbo back, headliner, rebuild motor, tune. Pretty much that order. 4-5 months?



 
  • Like
Reactions: Darepoole

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,494 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Got them mounted and spaced like I want them finally. Went with OEM sized tires for now. Need to get the set of Lesjofors front ‘sport’ v6 springs on. Hoping for a wee bit of rake or I can raise the rear with a 7/8” thick piece Teflon I jacked from work after I cut it into a puck with a hole saw.








 
  • Like
Reactions: Darepoole

·
Registered
1999 Audi A4 Stroker Build in Progress S200SXE, Custom Megasquirt ECU, ABA Forged Crank and more
Joined
·
1,282 Posts
Got them mounted and spaced like I want them finally. Went with OEM sized tires for now. Need to get the set of Lesjofors front ‘sport’ v6 springs on. Hoping for a wee bit of rake or I can raise the rear with a 7/8” thick piece Teflon I jacked from work after I cut it into a puck with a hole saw.








Looks great Sir. I don't know why but I always forget how beautiful b6 wagons look. I am not a huge fan of b6 sedan but boy did they do the avants right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,494 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Looks great Sir. I don't know why but I always forget how beautiful b6 wagons look. I am not a huge fan of b6 sedan but boy did they do the avants right.
Thanks. Best looking Audi, IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,494 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I put a single din radio in today. Last month I attempted to use a Metra install kit. Utterly useless. Reviews said once installed you couldn’t get it back out. I thought that a ludicrous design and could not be so. Well, it was true. Tossed that and ordered an Enfig kit. Beautiful piece of kit and will highly recommend. Many prefer the double din but I am just as happy with a single.

For adapting the aftermarket harness to the OEM harness I went with a DNF adapter. Looked best amongst all those I’ve looked up. It’s a decent setup and works as intended.

Weird issue is that the speaker placement is off. Front Left is the only one that is correct. FR is RR, RR is RL, and RL is FR. Sound quality is as good or better than OEM aside from the speaker rearrangement. So looks like I’ll be hard wiring each door speaker and still use the OEM sub. May as well run the coax and power wire for an amp while I’m there.



 
  • Like
Reactions: Darepoole

·
Registered
1999 Audi A4 Stroker Build in Progress S200SXE, Custom Megasquirt ECU, ABA Forged Crank and more
Joined
·
1,282 Posts
Heck yeah looks good. I ordered from enfig over the summer the guy is awesome. He knew the part number off the top of his head! I got the Sound Ordnance M75-4 from crutchfield it’s a great little unit for the money I recommend it if you don’t wanna spend too much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,494 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Busted knuckles today and swapped in the front springs on the old struts. It wasn’t as bad as I expected but the passenger strut but was stupid tight. Stripped my 6mm Allen wrench and the shaft end, too. Ended up beating in an SAE allen and clamping a Vise Grip high on the shaft where the bump stop rides. It sits basically level and I assume some settling will happen. I’ll pull some measurements tomorrow for anyone that may care.

Side note, the radio cuts out periodically. It receives power only when I have an OBD dongle plugged in. So I’ll need to pull it out and tap some power for it. I’ll go ahead and hardwire the door speakers. I’ll study the wiring harness adaptor and see if I can’t retain the front center speaker.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Darepoole

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,494 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Bubba B6 Quattro rear lift.

1” thick solid Teflon piece I jacked from work.


3.25” hole saw.


7/8” hole with a 9/16” counter.


9/16” hardware.


I ended up trimming that excess bolt off.


These are actually A6 coils and isolators. Look a little different but function the same.


Tucked in there.


Not too rednecky.


Ra ta taaa. Wee bit of rake but I like it for now.



FL 13 5/8
RL 14 3/4

FR 13 1/2
RR 14 3/4
 
  • Like
Reactions: Darepoole

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,494 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Put some new peepers on, too. Scored these Valero on fleaBay for $200. Closed the hood and came back 20 minutes later as the sun was going down to try and adjust them and broke the MFing hood release cable.

 
  • Like
Reactions: Darepoole

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,494 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
They look good man. Car keeps messing with you!

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
No doubt. I’ll have a look under there in the morning and pop it the hard way. I was really hoping to make its maiden voyage with me cross country tomorrow night. Looking at about 600 miles worth of i20 with an excursion into New Mexico. Really wanted that extra 8-10 mpg. But if I can’t consistently open the hood it’ll be a no go. Can’t be driving up on some 2x6 scraps and using 2x 1’ long 3/8” extensions every time I want to look under there. Not on a road trip.

Radio died today, too. Figured out how to tie in the door speakers and only run two sets of wire. I found the pin out for the trunk mounted amp and only need to run speaker wire there to splice in. So only pull the passenger side trim pieces and I can run speaker wire, coax, and amp wires. Lose the baby sub for now until I sort what I wanna do next. If I can find my roll of speaker wire now. FML.
 

·
Registered
1999 Audi A4 Stroker Build in Progress S200SXE, Custom Megasquirt ECU, ABA Forged Crank and more
Joined
·
1,282 Posts
Darn that’s unfortunate are you postponing the trip?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Top