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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just ran another dyno with the viper CAI, and this time had a fan on the intercooler. I'll post the graphs when I get them but here are the numbers and some observations:
* Best run was 188.5HP / 234.7 TQ
* ran 2 3rd gear pulls then a 4th gear pull with less then 1min break between runs and car wasnt shut down. The runs got progressively worse which is a pretty good indication there is heat soak. the 4th gear pull was only 173.1HP / 227.2 TQ which is a bit of a drop from the best run.
* The air:fuel dropped right off the chart in 4th gear (leaned out bigtime) after 5500 RPM. I hope this is what Upsolute is going to work on with their new programming. The best run's air:fuel didnt drop that much, only dropped to 11 at 6000 RPM. (was 12-13 around 5500 and 13 at 5000
* there was a little less airflow then driving on the highway and logging. I think this shows that dynos arent a good way to measure the performance of a CAI such as the viper. I had a small fan blowing on the intake but don't think it helped much.
All in all I was quite happy. I see that the dyno is probably not a good reflection of what is happening while driving as heaksoak and more air due to the intake are hard to reproduce on a dyno.
Graphs to follow
 

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Re: New dyno results (wolfsburg_de)

I have been told by a local Ferrari Tuner that ideal A/F ratio is 12.5:1 - mine right now is right off the chart (below 10:1) from ~2.5K to ~5K
Hence why I'm looking into a different chip. The A/F was measured immediatly after the turbo using an 02 sensor hooked up to the dyno and on this perticular run (the waaay too rich one) I had my MAF removed. The guy that did the run then proceeded to unplug one of the lines of the FPR and plug it up and did another run - this next run ran lean for a little bit (up til 2.6K) and then dropped out to ~12-13.5... This run made a MUCH better area under the curve even though it was not as good at the beginning. Of course my fpr is back in service but I was advised to buy an adjustable one... He is willing to tune my car using one but his ultimate recommendation was to buy an independant engine management system (he tunes Motec and Excel (sp?) system) but this would run me at least $1400 for the Excel and up to $10K for the Motec

Now to form a question here - Most people have been discussing getting a 4bar fpr - in my case that would be going in the wrong direction (isn't it?) so where could I get and adjustable fpr? The way it looks - the stock one is attached to the fuel rail so HOW do I replace it? Does a new one come with the whole rail (I'm looking for adjustable one) and WHERE can I get an adjustable one? I've seen that ECStuning has one for ~200 - is that the going rate for them?
 

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Re: New dyno results (Gambit)

Here's my A/F reads.
2600rpm-11
3000rpm-13
3500rpm-14.75
4000rpm-14.25
4500rpm-14.10
5000rpm-13.75
5500rpm-12
6000rpm-12.10
6500rpm-12.15
7000rpm-11.80
198hp/230lbs to the wheels.
How's that A/F read? Good, OK, what should I look to do?
As far as bigger FPR's, they'd work if you're lean throughout. ECS's adjustable FPR is nice. I've seen it installed. Simple, easy to adjust, etc. I think it's $239 w/ the meter. It's worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: New dyno results (Jman5000)

Jman - those numbers look like everyone else's that I have seen. My air:fuel looks okay on the 3rd gear run, it isnt until the 4th gear run that it drops off. This is the one I think has heatsoak though so don't know how signifigant that is.
 

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Re: New dyno results (BrandonC)

you are losing power at 10:1 air fuel, thats ridiculous but safe. Keeps your motor from detonating my guess. 11:1 is safe, 12:1 is more powerful, and if you run race gas 13:1 is safe. They may be dumping a load of timing up top and adding a load of fuel to counter detonation and keep the EGT's down.
Interesting. But 10:1 you are losing power. Way too rich, are you seeing black smoke chug out?
 

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Re: New dyno results (mrkrad)

quote:[HR][/HR]you are losing power at 10:1 air fuel, thats ridiculous but safe. Keeps your motor from detonating my guess. 11:1 is safe, 12:1 is more powerful, and if you run race gas 13:1 is safe. They may be dumping a load of timing up top and adding a load of fuel to counter detonation and keep the EGT's down.
Interesting. But 10:1 you are losing power. Way too rich, are you seeing black smoke chug out?
[HR][/HR]​
Yeah, I knew that was pretty rich, and the dyno guy said the same thing. Didn't see any smoke or anything unusual, just a high fuel to air ratio. I was hoping to see more like 11:1 or so, but I dunno.
Andy -- any ideas? Is this normal for an AWD with an Up chip? Either way, it still pulls like a mofo.
 

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Re: New dyno results (hman)

One thing we found out at the dyno today is that even if the IC is icy cold each run, the intake manifold gets hotter and hotter each run and the numbers start getting lower. I guess icing down the manifold after each run will bring the hp numbers back up. We didn't do it though.
 

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Re: New dyno results (Bug_Power)

Bug_Speed: That is exactly what I was going to post. I was curious when someone was actually going to test those. I guess you're implying they may actually make a difference. Either way, sounds like some cheap insurance to make sure your car runs consistently cool.
-Ian
 
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