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G Charger of the engine I'm installing

The used engine I am putting in my Corrado was barely used after it was rebuilt. I understand from the salvage yard I purchased it from the former owner completely had the engine rebuilt W/Stage 4 BBM setup and put a 02A in place of the automatic. Never was happy with or couldn't get it working to their satisfaction and sold it to him. The salvage yard owner was a Mopar drag racer with a spot in his heart for VWs.
See the pics of the supercharger and where it was rebuilt. I have a newly rebuilt charger I plan to run, this one will be a spare. I'm sure it should have a refresh done on it after 10+ years but little miles. I'm wondering if anyone has any history or knowledge about German Autohaus the charger re-builder?









 

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G-Ladder refresh?

I have one I bought with a few miles on it with a fresh rebuild, but I don't know who did it and it is painted silver, not to my liking.
I'm thinking about sending this one to Bahn Brenner for a tune up. It is dry inside and spins nice and smooth.
Chime in with your thoughts? I think this one would surly look better.

 

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I have no history or knowledge of them, but was on a VW hiatus around that time. They are not in the G60 Forum Rebuilder's thread either. There were a lot of companies back in the day thinking they could rebuild them, etc, and trying to use replacement seals, bearings, etc that were NG. That doesn't mean that it was not rebuilt by someone after them, but unless I had documentation on the rebuild, I would at a minimum, split the cases and inspect! I always do.

Also, you can tell a lot from the brand of seals used on the case and Displacer and the color and wear of the apex strips. Goetze seals are a good indicator that someone new what they were doing and used factory parts. There are others that are acceptable though.
 

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New guy here. Been a non member lurker for a long time. I searched and only found a post from 2004 with broken links that would have answered my question.

1993, vr6, obd1 coilpack. I bought the car non-running and have been sorting through the PO mess to get running. I found the burnt pcb from a capacitor in the ecm causing no fuel. Now that I have fuel there is no spark.

I'm looking for a wiring schematic for the coil pack control wires/harness routing. My issue is no spark. I have ground continuity on pin 1 (brn) and 5 (blk) and to my understanding pin 5 (blk) should be 12v power and pin 1 ground? I read around 1.5v on the other 3 pins but haven't received my test light in the mail yet for flicker test.

If pin 5 is supposed to be 12v then a short to ground is causing no spark so I'll need to find where it's touching or connected wrong. Does anybody know where the harness connects to the fuse panel/ignition etc.? The harness in the engine bay looks ok but my fuse panel is a mess and I don't see if it connects looking on the panel diagrams. Is it directly from the ecm?

Thanks all!
 

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New guy here. Been a non member lurker for a long time. I searched and only found a post from 2004 with broken links that would have answered my question.

1993, vr6, obd1 coilpack. I bought the car non-running and have been sorting through the PO mess to get running. I found the burnt pcb from a capacitor in the ecm causing no fuel. Now that I have fuel there is no spark.

I'm looking for a wiring schematic for the coil pack control wires/harness routing. My issue is no spark. I have ground continuity on pin 1 (brn) and 5 (blk) and to my understanding pin 5 (blk) should be 12v power and pin 1 ground? I read around 1.5v on the other 3 pins but haven't received my test light in the mail yet for flicker test.

If pin 5 is supposed to be 12v then a short to ground is causing no spark so I'll need to find where it's touching or connected wrong. Does anybody know where the harness connects to the fuse panel/ignition etc.? The harness in the engine bay looks ok but my fuse panel is a mess and I don't see if it connects looking on the panel diagrams. Is it directly from the ecm?

Thanks all!
Pin 5 is definitely suppose to have 12v and powered by IGN switch circuit #15 in Fuse Panel. Comes out to Engine harness from Fuse Panel via G1/4 (G plug pin 4)

It also interconnects with pin 1 on the VSS Speed sensor power on the trans and pin T68/38 on ECU.

A great reference for wiring is a2resouce.com, but the Bentley is a must in this case.
 

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Pin 5 is definitely suppose to have 12v and powered by IGN switch circuit #15 in Fuse Panel. Comes out to Engine harness from Fuse Panel via G1/4 (G plug pin 4)

It also interconnects with pin 1 on the VSS Speed sensor power on the trans and pin T68/38 on ECU.

A great reference for wiring is a2resouce.com, but the Bentley is a must in this case.
Thank you!! This is exactly the info I needed!

I have been using a2resource a lot but it either didn't cover that or I couldn't find it. I have a Bentley for my other cars but this one is going up for sale soon so I'd rather not spend the $150ish on a vehicle I won't have much longer.

Thanks again for the quick reply!
 

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I use A2 resource also, but mostly for the brochure rack. I never bother with the electrical stuff because none of my VWs are mainstreaam.

If the Bentley helps you get it to 100% FMC (Fully Mission Capable), then you can ask more for it. Not only that, but you can throw in the Bentley manual as an extra buyer incentive.

eBay has cheaper prices (than $150ish) for new ones but here's a used one. It's more expensive than a Chilton, but it's a Bentley. You can mark it up for the '93 VR6 Coil Pack so the next owner doesn't try to troubleshoot it as a '93 VR6 distributor or a '90 G60:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-1994-...763472?hash=item1f15533f90:g:9-EAAOSwYBFfQ~VO

EDIT: If you look at the picture of the back cover in the eBay auction, it has a supplement for "Motronic Distrutorless Ignition--VR6".
 

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I have no history or knowledge of them, but was on a VW hiatus around that time. They are not in the G60 Forum Rebuilder's thread either. There were a lot of companies back in the day thinking they could rebuild them, etc, and trying to use replacement seals, bearings, etc that were NG. That doesn't mean that it was not rebuilt by someone after them, but unless I had documentation on the rebuild, I would at a minimum, split the cases and inspect! I always do.

Also, you can tell a lot from the brand of seals used on the case and Displacer and the color and wear of the apex strips. Goetze seals are a good indicator that someone new what they were doing and used factory parts. There are others that are acceptable though.
To split the case can that be done with only removing the perimeter bolts and everything else stays in tact?
I would like to see the condition inside before sending it for a refresh. It would be easy for someone to tell me it's trash when you haven't seen inside.

I took a look through the outlet sure arn't oem seals, this one looks like it should go in for a rebuild.



I have another one I disassembled years ago, I think it was rebuilt in 2012 off an interior fire car, was going to attempt a rebuild myself but this should be done by a pro. BBM doesn't want to rebuild it if you have already disassembled it. Where else can I get a quality rebuild done?







 

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Yes, you can remove the perimeter bolts and carefully split the case. Lay pulley side down and remove the outlet housing and everything else will say as is. You wont be able to see the other side of the displacer but will give a good indication as to what you are dealing with.

That looks like a NAK viton seal. They are typically fine. It's definitely been apart before.
 

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Yes, you can remove the perimeter bolts and carefully split the case. Lay pulley side down and remove the outlet housing and everything else will say as is. You wont be able to see the other side of the displacer but will give a good indication as to what you are dealing with.

That looks like a NAK viton seal. They are typically fine. It's definitely been apart before.
I believe I will just send the German Autohaus charger for a BBM tune up, it looks like this charger has very little use since the rebuild.
I cleaned the outside up.
I thought about just installing it to see how it works, but it would be best to just install it only once.




 

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I believe I will just send the German Autohaus charger for a BBM tune up, it looks like this charger has very little use since the rebuild.
I cleaned the outside up.
I thought about just installing it to see how it works, but it would be best to just install it only once.
Cool. Based on the date "93" stamped in the Hex recess on the outlet case, that's a 3rd gen, late charger.
Yes that's great, I can't make any date out of the other one.

 

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Breaking the rules here on double posting. Looking for a quick answer

Hello, could someone please tell me what is the main difference between those two? Besides the obvious spring. Does the one without the spring has some sort of helper mechanism inside.

The form and fit is the same. But I am concerned about the parking brake bracket position. According to the parts looks up, the parking brake cable is compatible for all year models.


52033
52034
 

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Breaking the rules here on double posting. Looking for a quick answer

Hello, could someone please tell me what is the main difference between those two? Besides the obvious spring. Does the one without the spring has some sort of helper mechanism inside.

The form and fit is the same. But I am concerned about the parking brake bracket position. According to the parts looks up, the parking brake cable is compatible for all year models.


View attachment 52033 View attachment 52034
I have never taken them apart, but the Girlings seem to have the spring and Lucas (not) (as pictured). I had a late 93 that had Lucas on the rears (i still have the calipers) and I kind of wondered the same thing. I got the car with 93k and I don't think they were ever changed, but who knows. Never taken the rears apart, but have to assume there is an inner spring or ramp mechanism. I'm in for someone who has...
 

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I'm not sure but I guess there should be a spring by lucas calliper too
52251

these are mk4 alu, but the parking brake mechanism is the same..

both the girling and lucas callipers have two springs, strong spring inside and "helping" spring outside. newer design - lucas, mk4 alu are easier to repair cos the praking brake mechanism is all in one piece, so you just remove the securing ring and you can pull parking brake mechanism and o-ring out.

52253

parking brake mechanism and securing rings ( bottom right)


older design - girling ,mk2 golf is trickier to repair..
52254
52255
52256

parking brake mechanism


52257

you have to press the spring to remove/instal the securing ring.

52258
 

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Cool. Based on the date "93" stamped in the Hex recess on the outlet case, that's a 3rd gen, late charger.
I cleaned up the one I disassembled and found a date on the other half, could 99 be correct? Also odd color dots on it. The halves are suffixed "B" & "C" my other chargers are "A" and "B"




 

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G-Ladder refresh?

I have one I bought with a few miles on it with a fresh rebuild, but I don't know who did it and it is painted silver, not to my liking.
I'm thinking about sending this one to Bahn Brenner for a tune up. It is dry inside and spins nice and smooth.
Chime in with your thoughts? I think this one would surly look better.

Not sure if you’ve noticed by now, but the rebuilder scribed their name on the casing behind the pulley. Something “Autohaus”. BBM will scribe your full name on the casing to track it during rebuild.
 
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