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Not sure if you’ve noticed by now, but the rebuilder scribed their name on the casing behind the pulley. Something “Autohaus”. BBM will scribe your full name on the casing to track it during rebuild.
That is good to know for people to ensure you get back your charger.
 

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I cleaned up the one I disassembled and found a date on the other half, could 99 be correct? Also odd color dots on it. The halves are suffixed "B" & "C" my other chargers are "A" and "B"
I am not the foremost expert on that, but it seems plausible. A manufacturer must provide 10 years of parts. About 6 years ago or so (maybe more), VW unloaded and had a firesale on NOS chargers. My prior assumption was that 3rd gen chargers were stamped with 91 or 92 (I forget).

Late gen chargers are easy to distinguish by the displacer. You had a pic posted, but I no longer see it. They have 2 bridges off of the inner scrolls that tail into the center where Gen 1 are completely open.

Also, the wear at the center of that ebay displacer you had posted is a little concerning. Looks like it ingested some debris. The rest looked pretty darn good but hard to tell from pictures. It will still be rebuildable and will work fine, but the circular grooves (depending on how bad, will loose some slight sealing and will accellerate the apex strips wear slightly. All in all not a big deal and definitely worth the price.
 

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I am not the foremost expert on that, but it seems plausible. A manufacturer must provide 10 years of parts. About 6 years ago or so (maybe more), VW unloaded and had a firesale on NOS chargers. My prior assumption was that 3rd gen chargers were stamped with 91 or 92 (I forget).
Looked up my old notes. 2/90 started Gen 3 Chargers with the late displacer. Gen one was early 89 with no timing belt cover (I have never seen one and my guess is '89 Corrados only).

Gen 3 from 2/90 + had the late displacer with the inner scroll bridges and different ports and weighed 10g more.
stroke from small shaft increased from 4.9mm -> 4.915mm and displacer went from 96.5mm to a smaller 96.43 to accommodate the larger stroke. My guess this change was more harmonics due to the heavier displacer, but that is just a guess.

This is why it's important not to mix match stuff. Cases are said to be interchangeable.
 

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I am not the foremost expert on that, but it seems plausible. A manufacturer must provide 10 years of parts. About 6 years ago or so (maybe more), VW unloaded and had a firesale on NOS chargers. My prior assumption was that 3rd gen chargers were stamped with 91 or 92 (I forget).

Late gen chargers are easy to distinguish by the displacer. You had a pic posted, but I no longer see it. They have 2 bridges off of the inner scrolls that tail into the center where Gen 1 are completely open.

Also, the wear at the center of that ebay displacer you had posted is a little concerning. Looks like it ingested some debris. The rest looked pretty darn good but hard to tell from pictures. It will still be rebuildable and will work fine, but the circular grooves (depending on how bad, will loose some slight sealing and will accellerate the apex strips wear slightly. All in all not a big deal and definitely worth the price.
There is no legal requirement for a car manufacturer to provide parts support for 10 years. It's more of an unwritten rule.

We in the Phaeton forum researched this a few years ago. It is a general rule of thumb but not a legal requirement that we could find.

The unwritten rule may apply to ROW Phaetons but it was barely out of production when parts started drying up in North America. Parts I wanted to order were going NLA a month or so after production ended. Owners have reported that dealers can't even get some parts from Germany.
 

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Not sure if you’ve noticed by now, but the rebuilder scribed their name on the casing behind the pulley. Something “Autohaus”. BBM will scribe your full name on the casing to track it during rebuild.
Yes the dissplacer has been scribed on too, from the German Autohaus rebuild.
 

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Alright, Thank you :D
I saw some tutorials just putting paint marks on the belt then just transferring belts over without moving anything or setting the engine at TDC would you advise against this?
 

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Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)

awesome, thanks for the help. i figured i'd do all of that and do the billet crack pipe everyone seems so fond of.
In addition to the flush, sensors on the block, crack pipe, it is also important to check the sensor on the radiator, then check that your system runs all three speeds on the rad fan assy and that they kick in correctly. Sometimes the solenoid which controls the fans sticks. This is a common fault - not all cars were properly recalled for the fix.

Many of us have since fitted oil coolers with thermostats. Really helps on long high speed runs.
 

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Alright, Thank you :D
I saw some tutorials just putting paint marks on the belt then just transferring belts over without moving anything or setting the engine at TDC would you advise against this?
So mark the original belt then mark the new belt to match? Or just mark the original belt and put it back the same way?

I can't even picture that working in my mind. I would mess that up for sure.

The only thing that would save me on a G60 is it's not an interference engine.

It's super easy to just line up the marks as the Bentley manual shows.
 

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So mark the original belt then mark the new belt to match? Or just mark the original belt and put it back the same way?

I can't even picture that working in my mind. I would mess that up for sure.

The only thing that would save me on a G60 is it's not an interference engine.

It's super easy to just line up the marks as the Bentley manual shows.
Alright got it thanks for all the help. :)
 

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Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (Noobercorn)

thx, i feel like a new born asking n00b questions. lol.
been 7 yrs since i last had my g60 and the vr6 i just got feels like an entirely different beast.
'94 slc
only mod GIAC chip
problem/concern: a/c and high temps
my main concern is... if my car is running too hot, i've done some searching and vr's run in the 220's, i tried to run the ac and the temps were climbing some and i got paranoid and turned it off. what are some normal temps with the ac running? another poster pointed out that the manual states that it should be fine until it hits 300 deg, which seems crazy high.. temps with out ac are coolant around 200-210/oil 230-240/ambient temp 95
thanks again
Re: I see a lot of New Guys in here, so lets start an "ask the experts thread".... (xavierz007)

not abnormal at all. basically, all corrado's run hot. (water and oil temps)
my suggestion: flush system, new thermostat, water wetter, and an external oil cooler.
also, try a new oil temp sensor. it is possible it is defective. i had one once that was really hot, and i put a new oil temp sensor and the car showed perfect temps (with boost, in the summer too)
also, i have dropped as much as 20 degrees on oil temp by simply changing the viscosity of oil in the car. since then, i have run mobile 1 synthetic 10w30 in everything i own.
These are the things to address - with the benefit of hindsight
1. As mentioned by VdubCorrado: flush the waterways and radiator, get rid of all deposits. While you are at it check the thermostat housing (take it off and have a good look) replace the seals. Also check and replace the crack pipe with an alloy one, fit new o rings. They leak more than we are seem to admit. When you fill up with coolant make it 50% distilled water and 50% coolant additive. Do not use tap water - as it conributes to head gasket failure, damaged sensor and thermostat housing seals.
2 Check and replace the hoses with silicone hoses. They just don't spring leaks like OEM hoses.
3. Check and if necessary replace the temperature sensors. If you have a multimeter check their response to temp changes. ETKA and Bentley manuals provide the temps at which they change.
4. Again if you have a multimeter check the trigger temperatures and trigger points for the fans - your fans have three speeds and use two temp sensors, one on the radiator, one on the cluster where the thermostat is fitted. Make sure you are confident that the fan relay is responding properly. They develop faults more often than people realise.
5. Replace the OEM aluminium radiator either with a copper one or a racing rad with proper alloy side caps. Makes a massive difference.
6. If you regularly do high speed runs that last for more than 2 hours I strongly recommend you fit a thermostatically controlled oil cooler kit. There's enough space next to the steering rack cooler (under the rad). Read up on how it is done. 13 rows on the cooler matrix is enough - but make sure that thermostat is from a reputable source or you could face overcooling.
7. VdubCorrado is right. Complex thin, synthetic oils are worth the trouble, even though they need more topping up. If you've never flushed your engine, read up about it and give it a really good flush before using thin oils. Then stick to thin oils.
 

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There is no legal requirement for a car manufacturer to provide parts support for 10 years. It's more of an unwritten rule.

We in the Phaeton forum researched this a few years ago. It is a general rule of thumb but not a legal requirement that we could find.

The unwritten rule may apply to ROW Phaetons but it was barely out of production when parts started drying up in North America. Parts I wanted to order were going NLA a month or so after production ended. Owners have reported that dealers can't even get some parts from Germany.
Interesting. In Europe, specifically Denmark, Germany, Sweden, Norway and the UK - there could be others - the 10 year rule applies for all products retailed in those countries. I had to invoke it recently when Miele stopped supplying a door (sold in the UK, manufactured partly in Germany, partly in Norway) for my fridge and they were forced to replace the entire fridge for the cost of the door at the point when they stopped stocking it. The same rule applies to car parts on this side of the pond.
 

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OBD2 conversion from OBD1 on a Corrado SLC/ VR6
I made the terrible mistake of putting off the conversion until this winter, started looking for all the material only to discover that Dennis' work is now gone and the vwvortex '93 Distributor to OBD2 how to guide' has lost its photographs. Does anybody - by some fluke - have a photographic guide similar to Dennis one, and a wiring modification checklist of changes - link here or via PM?

So yes it is a Noob mistake. Unacceptable for someone who's been on this forum for so long - but... well, I've been scanning the forum for days now and havent found enough to get a proper detailed plan in place.
 

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That is good to know for people to ensure you get back your charger.
I finally cracked open the charger I plan to send out for a refresh (German Autohaus one), the displacer has been scribed so I can be sure I get the same one back. I think it looks good inside, glad I decided to have the apex seals done over it looks like they have shrunk since installed. I am a little concerned about the amount of oil I see, does it look excessive to you?
 

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Axep strips did shrink and look like the grey ones, which makes sense as they are not a good replacement. I wouldn't worry about the oil since you are getting new seals anyway. Looks like displacer seals were changed, but small shaft not, so who knows what they did. You can see though that someone was likely using a crap foam cone filter at some point or were just bad on changing air filter. It's still ok, but you can see the deeper circular grooves from debris.
 

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I finally cracked open the charger I plan to send out for a refresh (German Autohaus one), the displacer has been scribed so I can be sure I get the same one back. I think it looks good inside, glad I decided to have the apex seals done over it looks like they have shrunk since installed. I am a little concerned about the amount of oil I see, does it look excessive to you?
The end of the displacer groove has been epoxied, be sure that it still has good adhesion before running it. A replacement 3rd generation displacer will be hard to find.
 

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The end of the displacer groove has been epoxied, be sure that it still has good adhesion before running it. A replacement 3rd generation displacer will be hard to find.
Good catch, thanks. Something went on before the last rebuild, clearly dug in to the housing also.
I don't feel so bad sending this in for a $200 tune up then. I assume it will work OK with new strips maybe a bit of lost boost. No doubt they will be sending the same one back to me. I'll give them a head's up before they open it.
 

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ohhh, I completely overlooked that... Yes, this is typical from a neglected charger than had worn apex strips that got so bad, they eded up getting spit out the end of the displacer. You can see the wear on the case where the strip that was being ejected wore the case down over time. I have a spare one like that as well.. If you don't "need" this charger, you may just want to save it and not spend the money on the rebuild right now. It should work like that and obviously was for some time, but that one looks like it was pretty bad. How much boost loss? I can't comment.

on the other side of the coin, FWIW, the VWMS chargers had much shorter displacer walls and this shorter Apex strips.
 

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ohhh, I completely overlooked that... Yes, this is typical from a neglected charger than had worn apex strips that got so bad, they eded up getting spit out the end of the displacer. You can see the wear on the case where the strip that was being ejected wore the case down over time. I have a spare one like that as well.. If you don't "need" this charger, you may just want to save it and not spend the money on the rebuild right now. It should work like that and obviously was for some time, but that one looks like it was pretty bad. How much boost loss? I can't comment.

on the other side of the coin, FWIW, the VWMS chargers had much shorter displacer walls and this shorter Apex strips.
I'm thinking the displacer really wasn't damaged, they filled the groove so the apex strip would stop short and not be in the previous hole dug in the housing, flip flopping back and forth.
I am sending it out to be resealed, apex strips and new belt. good enough for this unit. I have a 1990 charger which looks decent for a rebuild but I'm going with this later gen one. The one I have with a 1999 date still intrigues me.

 
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