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Stereo update:
End result: My headunit has a amp remote (wake up) line, but it doesn't send a signal down the wire. This means the amp doesn't turn on. Now I have to decide whether to replace the HU or wire the amp to an ignition line. Meaning it will always be on when the engine is running. The car is still in bits until I make up my mind.
Make sure you are using the blue/white wire. Some radios also have a blue wire, which is power antenna and only works on am/fm.

As a temporary fix, you can hook up the amp turn on to the red wire, which is keyed power. Likely you will have turn on/off pop though.
 

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Just came back from a Home Depot run where I saw some lucky fellow drove a 993 turbo (dark gray with hints of green, and camel interior). After drooling a bit, I came home and logged on to find this thread at the top. A nice coincidence that serves to remind me how much I like the 993. Keep enjoying the purple beast and posting updates - we do enjoy them :)

side observation: there was also a new Skyline in the lot and wow is it HUGE compared to a 993. Crazy how much sport coupes have grown.
 

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993 C2, MK4 GTI, MK7.5 R
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Discussion Starter · #343 ·
Haven't checked in for quite some time, but I'm glad I clicked! Thanks for sharing the updates, and I'm super happy your doggo handled the snake and bounced right back.
(y) It's amazing how quickly she recovered. We're so lucky :)

It's been a while since I saw this thread. There are some great updates!

Yeah, I had to quote that. It threw me off, too!

In other news I'm very glad your handsome dog is okay, the Speedster didn't wreck, when I read it I was sure it was a 356 Speedster and a rear tire blowing out was going to mean it flipped (because swingaxle), the photos are really nice, I now want to grill sausages, and you could probably add a relay to power the amp when you want it on.

I think I got everything in there. :unsure: :D
:) Thanks!

I was waiting to enter the track when the Speedster spun. At the end of my session I returned to the pits and there's an arc of people 2 deep bending down to look in the wheel arch. I couldn't work out what happened. Then I saw the wheel. Pretty much the weirdest thing I've seen happen to a tyre!

The sausage photo was one of my "Australia" entries. :)

Great idea about the relay too. Thanks for your thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #344 ·
Make sure you are using the blue/white wire. Some radios also have a blue wire, which is power antenna and only works on am/fm.

As a temporary fix, you can hook up the amp turn on to the red wire, which is keyed power. Likely you will have turn on/off pop though.
Good tip. I'll double check everything on the weekend. Thanks :)

Just came back from a Home Depot run where I saw some lucky fellow drove a 993 turbo (dark gray with hints of green, and camel interior). After drooling a bit, I came home and logged on to find this thread at the top. A nice coincidence that serves to remind me how much I like the 993. Keep enjoying the purple beast and posting updates - we do enjoy them :)

side observation: there was also a new Skyline in the lot and wow is it HUGE compared to a 993. Crazy how much sport coupes have grown.
Thanks B_artman. They are tiny, aren't they? And yeah - The GTR is crazy big!
 

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Discussion Starter · #345 ·
No luck with the wire from the head unit. I tripled checked wiring diagrams but it won't output a signal.

In desperation, I visited 4 different auto-stores and looked at different head units. I was unable to find one that wasn't awful for an old car. So I gave up and wired the amp to the ignition/accessories line. Sound quality is much better. It's not what I'd call good, but its a big improvement. The volume is much louder and it no longer struggles when the windows are open.

I have been running Porsche OEM optional "Hi-Fi" rear speakers in the rear. They're popping a little and there's not much bass. I think I'll swap the Infinity's back in and give them a try with the amp.

Removing the interior trim has also given me a chance to do some other projects. The carbon door trim had worked a little loose on the passenger side. The rivets I used to hold the mounting rail had worked loose on the thin MDF door card. I drilled them out and then put a metal plate (basically a big square washer) on the inside of card. The rivet is now holding metal to metal so it will be much stronger. No pics, but I've still got to do the drivers side.

While the console was out to route wires I adjusted the hand-brake sensor. One of the quirks of the car was that you had to push down on the handle to extinguish the warning light - otherwise you'd start to drive off and the light would catch your eye. It's something I got used to but was always a little annoying. Fixed by undoing the screw, moving the sensor until the light went off and then tightening it up again.

I also spent a few hours fixing the height adjustment on the passengers seat. It had a few problems and it was pretty satisfying to learn and fix each one. The wiring and switches were fine, but . . .

Problem 1: The motor/gearbox had seized (blue in the 2nd pic)


I backed off the little screw and lubricated everything. I was then able to turn the mechanism by hand. I applied 12v to the motor and it started to work. I was feeling pretty smug until I reinstalled the motor and discovered . . .

Problem 2: Old grease in the lifting points (green)

Each motor spins two shafts that go into two little jacks. Inside each jack is a threaded rod that goes up and down to move the seat. The lube on these parts is probably 27 years old and seemed to be more like glue. I cleaned it and applied new lube and it then spun freely.

Problem 3: Bad driveshaft (my finger/orange)
This is where I made a bit of a mistake. I didn't diagnose problem 2 quick enough and I damaged the driveshaft during testing. It's basically a tightly wound spring and I must have applied just a little too much torque while the mechanism was bound up. One shaft is now partially un-wound and looking pretty sad. It works but the loose strands are now hitting the frame and clicking as they spin. New shafts will be ordered soon. I thought I was being careful by going slowly and monitoring the heat in the motor and switch, but I didn't think about the shafts. Anyway, the shaft was already a little damaged on the motor side so I'm not too upset.

What am I upset about? I put the passenger seat back in and tested it. It's fully operational for the first time in five + years. Great! That smug feeling came back. Then I hopped into the drivers side and repositioned it . . . . and I notice that I've lost rear height adjustment - literally straight after fixing the same problem on the other seat.

Next projects:
Swap in the Infinity rear speakers.
Clean and lube the sunroof which has stopped working. Fingers crossed it's nothing major!
Troubleshoot the issue with the drivers seat. Fingers crossed it's nothing major!
Remove drivers door trim and reinforce the rivets.
Work out a plan to get it serviced.

Old cars huh?
 

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Discussion Starter · #346 · (Edited)
Door trim update!
I popped off the drivers side door trim and replaced and reinforced the rivets that hold the carbon in place.

Before:

You can see they've slightly pulled out of the MDF. The passenger side was much worse.

I used a small square of metal to spread the load. The trim is now tight on the door. Apologies for the change in orientation.



Drivers seat.
I wired the seat with 12v and used a multimeter to identify the fault. Power was getting to the switches. The motor worked when I bypassed the switch. That left the switch and the wiring as the possible causes. I had no idea how the switch worked so I ran a continuity test on the wires. Bingo!

Somehow one of the wires has been crushed/cut.

Off topic - Solder/heatshrink butt joiners are really ****ing awesome.

Job done!

Sunroof.
I planned to limit my project to lubricant spray as the project seemed a little daunting - You need to remove the metal panel to access things. I manually opened the roof but the dry lube spray didn't help very much. It ran once or twice and then got stuck again. I watched a few videos and learnt how the roof operates and then got the idea to go all in.

I haven't finished yet, but I'm hoping the problem is a combination of a broken clip and dirty cables.

This little guy was stuck right at the back of the channel . . .Perhaps this is why it would get stuck when fully open?

It is meant sit underneath the carriage(?) that bolts to the metal sunroof panel. I guess it helps the mechanism glide in the channels.


The above pic also shows the sunroof cables. They're basically just big flexible wire, with a coil on the outside and fuzz inside. The sunroof motor sits near the rear window and spins a cog. The teeth act on the coil to pull the cables, which pulls the carriage, which opens the roof. The fuzz on my cables was black and I was able to remove a lot of filth from them with degreaser. They appear to be in good condition. The only other possible issue is the little black rubber glides are perished. They sit at 90 degrees to the rest of the mechanism and cover the wire that sticks out. My "local" Porsche dealer suggested that I replace them with heatshrink as the parts are not available separately. I can't see any other faults.

Consensus online seems to be that you shouldn't lubricate the cables as it will just attract dirt. I ran them back through the mechanism by hand after cleaning and they don't feel particularly smooth. I think I'll lightly coat them in graphite powder and see what happens.

I also discovered a little surface rust on the trailing edge of the roof panel and I've cleaned and primed the area in prep for paint. The damage was on the same side as the broken clip so hopefully it won't happen again.


I should be replacing the felt seals while everything is apart, but people say it's a terrible job to get right. I'm not going to risk it! :p

Next weekend:
Replace drive-shaft in passenger seat with a brand new one.
Replace sunroof clip, lubricate cables and get the sunroof back in.
Drive!
 

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Discussion Starter · #349 ·
Thanks guys. The sunroof is mostly finished now. I had a bit of drama getting the tension set correctly on the gearbox. Too little and it doesn't have the umphh to raise the panel. I've set it a couple of times, but I'm not 100% sure it's right yet.

Service update:
There was a Cars and Coffee event about 20 minutes from my mechanics workshop. It was going to be the first C&C in a year (Melbourne has had a lot of lockdowns) and they were expecting 800 cars. It was a perfect excuse to travel to Melbourne and get the car serviced. Pics from the event in the next post.

As promised, I finally got around to getting the ignition switch changed. It proved to be difficult so I'm very glad I didn't attempt it on my own. Lots of threadlock + anti-theft bolts + difficult access = not fun. I dropped the car in at 8am and they didn't get the switch finished until 2pm. Three hours for the service meant I was leaving Melbourne during rush hour and I didn't get home until 930pm. It was a long day.



Outcome of the service:
3 more control arms in the rear need to be replaced. Parts and time weren't available to get it done.
Reverse lights not working.

Stereo updates
I'd noticed that the rear left speaker kept cutting out. It had been happening for a while but I normally kept the stereo quiet because it was so terrible. I thought it was the wiring, but it turned out to be a bad connection on the speaker terminal. I cleaned up the connector and re-soldered the terminal. No issues since :)

Reverse lights
This was a bit of a weird one. The gremlin that killed my reverse lights seemed to be back. No reverse lights. No AC again. No foglights. I started thinking about the issue and it seemed to happen whenever I turned the fog lights on. I checked the fuse panel and found fuse 14 (I think!) was burnt out. I wasn't sure if it was the front or rear causing the problem, so I removed all the lights in the car. I measured resistance in the circuits, then the lamps. It seemed ok. I reinstalled a few things and measured current. I checked for any damage or issues - and found nothing. I reinstalled the rear fogs and a new fuse. They worked. I measured the current in the circuit and it was low. I added the front fogs - and the fuse popped. I replaced the fuse and then found the culprit. A dodgy bulb.



Note the colour of the wire. 2 new bulbs and it's good to go.

I'm not sure if it's in the previous updates, but the AC died a couple of years ago. It was right before a holiday trip and I wanted to take the car. My partner tolerates the 993, but no AC was a dealbreaker. It had to be fixed to go on the trip. I bought a gas refill kit (didn't end up using it) and dropped the car into an auto electrician. They found that the compressor wasn't turning on. The fix? Replace fuse 14. That dodgy bulb cost me about $250.

On the bright side . . . . I think everything on the car is now fully functional. That's a bit shameful considering I've owned it 5 years, but I had been delaying minor repairs such as the power seats. Anyway, that realisation made me feel pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #351 ·
Almost forgot! I wired a toggle switch into the positive line of the frunk light. The wires extend around the to an easy spot. Now I can charge the battery without having the light on.
No wiring changes to the car - all removable.
 

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Rennline door handle update:
Just realised I didn't update this one. Their engineer suggested that my door handle measurements were out of spec. That seems impossible to me, given I've got two sets of OEM door handles (one set from the green leather trim) and they fit perfectly. It seems way more likely that my aluminium handles are incorrect.

Rennline offered a refund and I probably would have accepted if I lived in the US. Given their slow response and illogical suggestion, I don't think I'll order any other RL parts.
Rennline says that Porsche never made the seats that are in my 930.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #355 · (Edited)
I didn't think a single bulb could cause so many issues Dubdaze. Luckily the problem appears to be completely resolved and I haven't had an issue since.

The unnecessarily expensive and totally optional update.

Two years ago I bought a pair of CF door trims and they never arrived. I've been regularly searching for a new set and finally found these on rennlist. There is a small section of missing epoxy which isn't ideal but it should be an easy fix. I think they'll arrive next week.



I was very lucky to snag them. Two people enquired before me but they were both after the later (bigger) type that my car currently has. The advantage of the new trim is: Correct for my 1994 car, they look better - and I won't have to worry about them separating from the door as per the recent update.

I also impulse bought a hooligan elephant grille badge from viva bastardo. It's kinda fitting for the car.


R update
A search alert recently popped up on marketplace. A guy in my town (holy crap!) was selling a bunch of quality golf mods. I made an offer on some BNIB racingline springs, a whiteline sway bar kit and racingline subframe alignment kit. I wanted the springs in order to drop the car a little and reviews stated that ride comfort wouldn't be significantly impacted.

I got the dealer to install it all during the first service.

They cocked up the install and forgot to install the sway bar lateral locking collars. Rolling out of their driveway, I heard the swaybar strike something underneath the car as it moved left to right. It was closing time and the mechanics had already left. I drove the car as little as I could but it would CRACK allll the time.

It took a week and a couple of phone calls for them to get the car back in.

I don't know how they installed the collars on the rear and forgot the front. I don't know how they ignored a pair of bright gold anodised after-market sway bar locking collars that must have been sitting on the bench for a week. I don't know how they can muck up a "home mechanic" level job. But they did.

Pretty disappointing and they didn't even apply paint to the areas that were scratched by the bar.



Drop from the springs is spot on. As for ride comfort: It's firmer but fairly similar to OEM although it jiggles when you hit a bump on one side. I'm assuming that's because the sway bars are set to FIRM. Bit of a trade off for the massively improved turn-in and reduced body roll.

Also disappointing: The guy selling parts recently traded his 2019 R into the same dealership. It was extensively modified and was traded with an OEM Akrapovic titanium exhaust as well as the stock unit. I asked the dealer if they'd be interested in selling it to me - No dice. Shame he didn't remove the exhaust before trading the car. :(

I'm still keeping an eye on German eBay for a used exhaust.

LM update
* pic from earlier.

I started looking for a set of LMs after ordering the R. I considered buying new, but couldn't justify the extreme cost (~15% of the price of the car). I set up search alerts. Hunted Yahoo Japan auctions. Looked for a set in Germany. Asked on Vortex. Placed an ad on marketplace.

And got nowhere really.

Until about a month ago.



A mate in Melbourne spotted an S3 listed with a set of LMs. I contacted the seller and he said he'd sell them if someone bought his car with the stock wheels. Several weeks later I notice that the car is sold and he's now listing the wheels. A few messages later and I sent a deposit.



Downsides: They're stuck in my mates garage in Melbourne. I can't get them until the Rona lockdown ends. This won't be for 3-4 weeks?
They have minor rash.
They are reverse mounted.
They're silver.
The bolts are chrome.
They were still really expensive. I paid $2000AUD more than the set for the 911.

None of the physical issues are a big deal - it's just another project :)

My mate will be getting a bottle of Whisky for his help!

GTI update
I've only driven it about 400km this year. Part of that is WFH. Part of that is the barrier of shuffling cars between the shed (back yard) and the garage (house). Part is because I've got the 911 which is more special.

It's due for a timing belt. Overdue for a service. It probably needs some suspension work. The clutch friction point is getting pretty high. Registration is due in 4 weeks - that'll cost about $800AUD. Bad timing really as I've spent so much money on the other cars. Common sense tells me I should sell it.


But look at it. It's still fun to drive. It's full of primo OEM parts. It's so slow compared to the R but the little turbo tries really hard and it corners like a go kart.

Expect the next update to say I've given up and renewed the rego for another year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #356 ·
Oh - speaking about the lockdowns: I was expecting to take the 911 back to Melbourne in November to get those control arms replaced. This would be timed with the Grand Prix however that was cancelled months ago and I'm not currently allowed to visit Melbourne.

No plan yet on how I'll get this addressed. Hopefully I can do a trip early next year. Once I saved some more money :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #359 ·
Glad to see a fellow Phil Toledano/Vivabastardo fan! I've missed out on the badges so far, but plan on getting one from the next run for my Mustang (not quite as Bastardo as your 993, but it's loud, so there's that).

(y)
You might be a Bastardo before I do! I'm still eagerly waiting on my parcel. Do you have a thread for your mustang?

Well, you paid the scene tax on those wheels. Lol.
Absolutely, but I'm choosing to think about how much I saved over buying a new set :p

Correct carbon door trim update!
Terrible pic, but the new trim was in good condition aside from the disclosed damage. It look like a previous repair had gone frosty.


I picked away the old glue, applied a UV stable epoxy:


Sanded it level:


Polished it:


And installed:


Not perfect, but the colour and shine matches. It's also in a spot that's hard to see so I'm pretty happy.



Aussie Animal Update.
I took the car out for a quick drive this weekend. I was on the way home when I spotted a turtle on the side of the road. My stomach always churns when I check on animals because the last thing I want to see is a dead critter. Fortunately, it appeared to be uninjured.




It's an Eastern Long-Necked Turtle. On the opposite side of the road was a nature reserve so I found a place near the water and set it free.



BBS LM update.
Melbourne lockdown is winding up so I'm hoping to make the trip within the next week or two to get my wheels. Very excited.

GTI update.
It passed roadworthy inspection with no issues - it got a service too. It's been interesting to drive compared to the other cars. It turns into corners so well and rides over bumps so badly.

Anyway, it's staying for another year :) I should make an effort to drive it more.
 
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