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There’s some old part numbers in here and VW has since updated them. Here is what plugs are called for on all 2.5 motors

Here is some spark plug info that I’ve researched with VW parts database.

All Rabbits 2006-2009, 2005.5-2007 jetta use the NGK double platinum laser PZFR5Q-11 (6737) VW part number 101905600C. These are the only cars with a 2.5 that VW calls for NGK platinum plugs.

2007.5 and 2015 jetta, 2006-2009 beetle, 2010-2014 golf, 2012-2015 Passat all use Bosch copper/nickel FR7HE02 vw part number 101905601F. VW calls for all these cars to use a Bosch copper/nickel plug.

Regardless of plug VW interval is 40,000 miles.


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There’s some old part numbers in here and VW has since updated them. Here is what plugs are called for on all 2.5 motors

...

2007.5 and 2015 jetta, 2006-2009 beetle, 2010-2014 golf, 2012-2015 Passat all use Bosch copper/nickel FR7HE02 vw part number 101905601F. VW calls for all these cars to use a Bosch copper/nickel plug.

...
Nice, so the NGK part # ZFR6T-11G is one step colder and would be a match for the later 2.5s. Where did you see these part number updates?
 

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Just because VW calls for a Bosch plug doesn’t mean an NGK wouldn’t work, right? The part number I shared is listed as compatible on NGK’s website and hits all the marks- NGK 5960 ZFR6T-11G Nickel Spark Plug.
Interesting. NGK shows that it’s compatible. That makes me feel a little more comfortable.

Curious though, why would you rather use a cheaper/ lower grade plug when VW calls for a Laser Platinum plug? Assuming you’re talking about early 2.5’s. Late 2.5’s use a nickel/ copper plug, so I don’t see an issue there.


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Curious though, why would you rather use a cheaper/ lower grade plug when VW calls for a Laser Platinum plug? Assuming you’re talking about early 2.5’s. Late 2.5’s use a nickel/ copper plug, so I don’t see an issue there.
I should’ve clarified that I was talking about that particular plug being used in CBTA/CBUA 2.5s. These NGKs are also less expensive than the Bosch, so that’s an added bonus; big box stores want $7+ for the Bosch and <$3 for the NGK.
 

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I should’ve clarified that I was talking about that particular plug being used in CBTA/CBUA 2.5s. These NGKs are also less expensive than the Bosch, so that’s an added bonus; big box stores want $7+ for the Bosch and


Maybe because the Bosch plug has a Nickel-Yttrium Alloy tip and the NGK has a Nickel tip. There could be the reason for a price difference.

The Bosch plug was designed to last 40k due to its multi alloy tip. Is the NGK rated to do the same? In my experience most standard nickel/copper plugs last 24k and there performance drops off pretty fast after that.



Edited for format.
 

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This is the story of one VW-loving man's quest to find the perfect NGK standard copper (nickel-alloy!) spark plug for our beloved 2.5L inline-5 cylinder engine...read on friends!


So the only recommended COPPER spark plug (aka standard aka NOT platinum or iridium tipped AKA nickel-alloy outer electrode...remember all spark plugs have copper cores so it's kind of a misnomer!) for our 2.5L inline-5's is a Denso plug, K16GPR-U11, which I have not been very impressed with after 2 sets of 30k and 20k miles. Don't get me wrong, they were decent especially for the money ($3.07 per plug), but meh...

The alternative? Just buy OEM 2.5L plugs and be done with it you say? :screwy: No way, what am I made of money?! $12/plug is absurd, and Platinum tipped never seems to run as good (and that is backed up by electrical science...go look up conductivity of metals).

And since I've never had a poorly performing NGK plug in any application ever....the obvious next step was to spec out the Denso K16GPR-U11 plug, crossreference to NGK and BOOM, sexy electrical magic! ❤

I came down to 3 NGK plugs that matched the Denso's specs (and as a check, they are all in the base family of the OEM platinum plug, PZFR5Q-11, hooray! 👍):

ZFR5D-11, ZFR5E-11, and ZFR5J-11

So these are all the same-spec'd plug, with the variable letter denoting "special firing-end design" which of course NGK does not explain anywhere. Initially I was set on the "J" version, thinking that since the original OEM platinum plug was a "J" plug (PZFR5J-11), however I found some info indicating the "J" copper plug had a shorter insulator than the other coppers and the OEM platinum plug.

With that said, I chose the ZFR5E-11.

No real reason over the "D" version...I thought I saw that the "D" was a non-V groove electrode so that was my reason against it...wouldn't hesitate to try the "D" or the "J" though, but as always your miles may vary/do at your own risk yadda yadda...I can only comment on the ZFR5E-11 ...

... and let me say...THEY ARE AWESOME. Now of course these are not "official" OEM spark plugs for our engine, so just remember that...but the results speak for themselves. I'll say it again for effect...


THE NGK ZFR5E-11 STANDARD COPPER SPARK PLUGS RUN GREAT IN VW 2.5L INLINE-5 CYLINDER ENGINES !!!!!!!


Just had to gap down to .040"/1.0mm. The butt-dyno says YES, idle is smoother, MPG's are up (couldn't get more than 28 highway before, recorded multiple highway cruises on the NGKs at 72-75mph in the 30.X range!), and, oh yeah, did I mention they cost $2.50 per plug? The wallet also says YES.


So run along now to your local auto parts store, where they are literally ALWAYS in stock (part #4435) and rejoice at the thought of walking out with 5 quality NGK copper plugs for less than $13. Boom shakalaka. Y'all are welcome! ☮
I have a 09 vw rabbit can I use these plugs or should I use something different?
 

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2008 Volkwagen Rabbit 2.5L 2 door hatchback
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This is the story of one VW-loving man's quest to find the perfect NGK standard copper (nickel-alloy!) spark plug for our beloved 2.5L inline-5 cylinder engine...read on friends!


So the only recommended COPPER spark plug (aka standard aka NOT platinum or iridium tipped AKA nickel-alloy outer electrode...remember all spark plugs have copper cores so it's kind of a misnomer!) for our 2.5L inline-5's is a Denso plug, K16GPR-U11, which I have not been very impressed with after 2 sets of 30k and 20k miles. Don't get me wrong, they were decent especially for the money ($3.07 per plug), but meh...

The alternative? Just buy OEM 2.5L plugs and be done with it you say? :screwy: No way, what am I made of money?! $12/plug is absurd, and Platinum tipped never seems to run as good (and that is backed up by electrical science...go look up conductivity of metals).

And since I've never had a poorly performing NGK plug in any application ever....the obvious next step was to spec out the Denso K16GPR-U11 plug, crossreference to NGK and BOOM, sexy electrical magic! ❤

I came down to 3 NGK plugs that matched the Denso's specs (and as a check, they are all in the base family of the OEM platinum plug, PZFR5Q-11, hooray! 👍):

ZFR5D-11, ZFR5E-11, and ZFR5J-11

So these are all the same-spec'd plug, with the variable letter denoting "special firing-end design" which of course NGK does not explain anywhere. Initially I was set on the "J" version, thinking that since the original OEM platinum plug was a "J" plug (PZFR5J-11), however I found some info indicating the "J" copper plug had a shorter insulator than the other coppers and the OEM platinum plug.

With that said, I chose the ZFR5E-11.

No real reason over the "D" version...I thought I saw that the "D" was a non-V groove electrode so that was my reason against it...wouldn't hesitate to try the "D" or the "J" though, but as always your miles may vary/do at your own risk yadda yadda...I can only comment on the ZFR5E-11 ...

... and let me say...THEY ARE AWESOME. Now of course these are not "official" OEM spark plugs for our engine, so just remember that...but the results speak for themselves. I'll say it again for effect...


THE NGK ZFR5E-11 STANDARD COPPER SPARK PLUGS RUN GREAT IN VW 2.5L INLINE-5 CYLINDER ENGINES !!!!!!!


Just had to gap down to .040"/1.0mm. The butt-dyno says YES, idle is smoother, MPG's are up (couldn't get more than 28 highway before, recorded multiple highway cruises on the NGKs at 72-75mph in the 30.X range!), and, oh yeah, did I mention they cost $2.50 per plug? The wallet also says YES.


So run along now to your local auto parts store, where they are literally ALWAYS in stock (part #4435) and rejoice at the thought of walking out with 5 quality NGK copper plugs for less than $13. Boom shakalaka. Y'all are welcome! ☮
Ive been using the Brisk USA Premium Racing Spark Plug 14mm... yeah I get it they are kinda expensive when it comes to spark plugs at little over 13 dollars a piece but trust me they are worth it, ive never had good luck with any of the spark plugs listed for the 2.5l, specially not with what I've done to it, iridium plugs, platinum, copper, Nicole, even ruthenium plugs.... but these Brisk plugs are killers, ive never had my car run this well before, even my throttle response is better and the heat range is correct as well..
 

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2011 Jetta Sportwagen S 2.5L; 2021 Hyundai KONA SEL
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I should’ve clarified that I was talking about that particular plug being used in CBTA/CBUA 2.5s. These NGKs are also less expensive than the Bosch, so that’s an added bonus; big box stores want $7+ for the Bosch and <$3 for the NGK.
Based on this particular thread/discussion I "secured" 10 plugs from O'Reilly for $ 2.29/piece... (y)
As I already replaced the spark plugs 7000 miles back (at 65,000 miles) after purchasing the car, I'm now covered for the duration of ownership.:)
 

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Ive been using the Brisk USA Premium Racing Spark Plug 14mm... yeah I get it they are kinda expensive when it comes to spark plugs at little over 13 dollars a piece but trust me they are worth it, ive never had good luck with any of the spark plugs listed for the 2.5l, specially not with what I've done to it, iridium plugs, platinum, copper, Nicole, even ruthenium plugs.... but these Brisk plugs are killers, ive never had my car run this well before, even my throttle response is better and the heat range is correct as well..
Those are some ridiculous statements. SMH.
 

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Thank (almost) everybody for the information listed here. My 2005.5 has had random misfires over the years, often seemingly depending on humidity. I replaced the knock sensors twice before realizing that wasn't likely the problem. As well as professionally cleaning the injectors, I plan on trying plugs other than oem. I've never researched spark plugs beyond part number lookup, so this thread really helps.

Please help me clarify: If I run a cooler plug, will this reduce my chance of knock? My engine is a BGQ from 2007, swapped from the original BGP. The knock can happen whether or not I have my stock intake or my short ram cold air intake. I may also replace the coils, it's been a few years since my last set.
 
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