[VR JC]

Alright, So I have spent a day and a half trying to get this previously problem free car to run. The car is an early 99 gti vr6 drivers edition. I even have a certified vw mechanic stumped. It seems like we have gone through everything!

Symptoms:

-NO crank, no power to almost everything (no lights, locks, stereo, windows, mirrors, etc.)
- Fuel guage works when key is in and the clock and odometer always work
- I hear the aux waterpump constantly working.
- All dash light indicators come on when the key is turned, minus the check engine light!?
- Keyless alarm module clicks when the key is removed from the ignition. The alarm light next to the driverside occasionally blinks when I engage the alarm with the key. (it is hit or miss)
-Battery replaced
-Boosted, still no change

What has been done:

-Ignition switch was replaced
-Alarm module was bypassed and the car cranked fine but the power to the fuel pump is not working so no start.
-door jam wires were checked and nothing is broken
- All fuses and relays were checked and swapped with those from a fully functional VR, still no change.
- All the grounds under the battery tray were cleaned as were the battery terminals.
- Starter has been ruled out as is cranks without problem when the alarm is bypassed
-The ecu was taken out and inspected and the alarm module still clicked with the ecu removed so I have also ruled a bad ecu out.

The thing is, the car just had a full rebuild and the engine bay is spotless, no visible bad grounds or corroded grounds.

The electrical worked without a flaw since the rebuild 3 months ago so I am left scratching my head.

I also want to know if the alarm module could still be the culprit even though it was bypassed and the problems still remained.

Help? I am taking any ideas.

Thanks folks.

 

[KubotaPowered]

How did you bypass the module?

 

[VR JC]

How did you bypass the module?

I unplugged it and jumped the 2 ten guage wires, it turned over but no start because there is no power to the fuel pump or ecu.

 

[vortexpert.]

driver door lock cylinder is poopy causing the alam to stay on resulting in no crank
the ecm is sick since the mil does not come on.
fix 2 and call in the morning:thumbup:

 

[VR JC]

driver door lock cylinder is poopy causing the alam to stay on resulting in no crank
the ecm is sick since the mil does not come on.
fix 2 and call in the morning:thumbup:

thanks man, Think so? What is a sick mil?

 

[vortexpert.]

thanks man, Think so? What is a sick mil?

ecm is sick- not well, not turning on, no power to the fuel pump or no spark condition.
if the ecm is "sick" it can cause a no mil (malfunction indication lamp aka mil) condition. basicly no check engine light.

 

[VR JC]

ecm is sick- not well, not turning on, no power to the fuel pump or no spark condition.
if the ecm is "sick" it can cause a no mil (malfunction indication lamp aka mil) condition. basicly no check engine light.

I removed the ecm and the alarm module was still clicking like mad. Made me think the ecm was fine and it is a problem elsewhere. The door lock cylinder seems fine. It is not loose and the key turns fine.

 

[aguyinpa81]

Bringing this back from the dead because I have a similar problem and not having a car pretty much blows. Especially when it is because of something I could care less about having. An alarm. For a while before being totally shut down the car would very rarely engaged te alarm when I went to start it. Now I don't know if its coincidence or I only remember it doing that when I left my keys in the ignition after shutting it off. Basically sometimes I shut my car off and leave keys in ignition instead of taking them with me and locking the doors with the remote like I do 90% of the time. Every once in a while when I left keys in ignition hop in car and go to start the flashers would blink. I would take my keys out and have to unlock my doors with the remote to be able to start it normally. This was very random and not too often. Same situation the other night however when I took keys out to unlock with remote the alarm module clicked like hell and would not stop until I unplugged power to it. I have unplugged the 2 plugs that go to alarm module and jumpers the 2 thick red starter wires above fuse box by inserting a 30amp fuse. Seems easier to me then using a wire and jumping the plug itself. After doing that no start because once I turn key to the acc on position all power falls flat and even my cluster goes blank. Turn key to off and slowly the cluster begins to show mileage and time. So I'm like huh guess my battery is shot from the alarm module clicking like mad for a while. So I tried having someone jump me. Was t working for the longer time till I waited for my battery to show over 13v while having jump cables hooked up. Car fired up drove the pig home. Wouldn't start next morning. Bought a battery. No change. Battery shows juice then once key to on position power falls flat. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The guy above mentioned something about door lock cylinder but didn't go into detail. I took my door panel off and check the harness that goes to the three pin plug plugged to the driver door handle. Wires look fine. Key works to lock all door and unlock all doors when enough power is available. At a loss . Thanks for your time tuning in.

Cheers :beer:
Jay