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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
We'll this is my first really big car build, am I a VW guru...F*&% no, but I am learning and challenging myself as I go which make this build awesome for myself. I got this car August 2014 and I have slowly been working on it..it didn't help with the winters up here in our igloo's EH?! So there was 6months I was hiding away from polar bears and chilling with penguins and no work was done on the car....I was hibernating. :facepalm: Now im going to bore you with car history blah blah blah...so I bought the car for $200- cause the kid said the motor was seized...little did he know after I brought it home it was only a seized altenator. Score for me.  This car is in great shape no rust or anything. That weekend I pulled the motor and trans and sold it...yes i started to profit off the car very nicely  . I bought 2 1.8t motors and began to dig into them. I want to make a super fragalistic calidoshis summer daily and track car.

Goal: 600AWHP @ 30PSI

Build list:
-JE pistons 81mm? 82.5mm? 83mm? IDK
-IE or Eagle rods (figuring what I will be running but riffle drilled they shall be)
-ACL bearings
-ARP head studs
-contenetial timing kit and kabootle
-supertech valves
-(R.I.M on cams, lifters, springs)
-R8 coilpacks
-1000cc siemen inj seimen.....hahaha
-BOSCH 044 pump
-3/8 send & return lines
-AEM wide band
-BOV
-3" full straight pipe
-PTE 6262 .82 A/R V-BAND BETTER FOR MY BUILD THAN A 5858
-eurodyne big turbo file
-5spd swap
-stage 4 clutch
-haldex swap
-6POT calipers

I have given the car a sex change for 5spd. And looking for a beautiful not so greatful donor car- rip the rest of the haldex conversion out of it and put it in my belly!! (Fat bastard voice)
P.s if you are Canadian you will understand Mike Myers aka Austin Powers.

Let the pictures begin:ic:







(The unloading.)


(Into the shop you go..my 1st vw jetta vr6)
Yes its neon pink-its just a colour, don't get your panties in a knot)


(The rip your heart out and laugh at it..it was a AEG 2.0 with auto trans)



Picked up my first 1.8t motor from the church..a little HOLY. (bought for trans "02J" and other stuff)


How the car stayed looking super dope boy fresh in the winter time EH?!


Took the trans off...and I became a photographer. 👌👍


Another cool photo or pressure plate snd clutch disc.


Went out and bought another 1.8t motor, more for the good 06A block.


Bought myself an AEB head. Plus I have a back up AWP. (I am fully aware that AWP heads put out 595hp and the AEB does 560hp...thank you...I have been doing the research)


I have a mess of piss jugs and extentions cords...sold the AWM head and still up cash...yeaaaa!


Cleaning the rest of the engine bay. AC is deleted, just need to delete the lines in the cab.


Took out the crappy carpet...cause who would want the car to burn...need to clean with power washer and get ready for paint.



Cheers to a good night of pulling the rods and pistons. Only 3-4 are out...ran out of time to get the 4th out because of the oil pump. (Shaking fist)

Well i got the last piston out and the oil pump out.
I got to taking the crank out and the last Allen bolt stripped...time to drill the head off possibly or just smash on a 7mm. Starting to hollow the AEB head as well.

getting on the shaving process. The hatch handle is out as well.

The hood on the other hand needs extensive work as the passenger side is rotted right through. I have alot of cutting and welding to do.


Current car state. Did test fitting.

UPDATE FEB 4,2016:

THIS UPDATE STARTS FROM FALL 2015 UNTIL NOW INCULDING- Body fabrication, bondo work, interior wrapping and gutting for roll cage, 5 speed swap, double frame notch :eek::peace: and engine bay shave and wire tuck start.

This is where my current state is at. I am not uploading every picture I have as I don't want to throw up everything. Next is to send the block out and go to hot tanking with magnaflux. Don't go on a rampage of "WOW DUDE I CAN DO THIS IN A WEEK"...well congratu****ulations sir, but I have a family to take care of and spend more with with then my build.
Now as the spring continues and the videos of car show arrise and hearing cars fly by the house-it gives me the extra motivation to get into the shop and continue to build on late night garage hangs.

**NOTE: The tear down and rebuild I will be doing a good 90% of and doing everything on my own, as it is a big learning curve for myself and understanding my car better.**




(Will update as I go)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·


Getting ready for the 5spd swap back in the fall 2015

subframe out and cut windows to weld the nuts.
This was back in the fall of 2015. Long time from posting on here URRRMAAAGURD!






Frame notch time! This was some fun....but now looking at it...I didn't need to do this as the car is going race car and not stance bull****.


Rip out interior and time to bare it.



Moved my car to my buddys shop, this is better.

Rigged this up so I can move the car around in the shop



Double frame notch complete and time to smooth it out and spray it.



So after another month of neglect, I headed to the shop and worked more at my interior. Time to get rid of that heater core...I don't see the reason for it as I took out all of my A/C because i can't stand A/C......heat...for what its only a summer kick. So lets get it deleted and keep it on the side lines.


All done. Basically I want to get the car off the jacks and have it rolling around. So plan for next shop day end of July week:
-coilovers go on
-subframe off again and brace it, and blast it.
-paint subframe
-drain gas left in the tank.

Getting excited again and plus I just welcomed another VW into the family. 1980 golf cabrio. Trying to figure if I will swap a 1.8t or do a tdi ALH swap. Time to test out my F-150 for the first towing.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Woooowie, so in the 2 weeks of vacation i had, nothing got done on the golf at all. Big shame. I hit the shop for a couple of hours and dropped the subframe again and took out the rack. Going to sand blast engine bay because the wire wheeling the bay is getting annoying. Relocated my PS res tonight as well.
Going to brace this for extra ridged support. I cleaned up my sode of the bay as well. That was a plus. Lol hopefully next time I'm at the shop i can get to my last posted list.

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For reference, here is a stock braced subframe from an early TT roadster, either to mod yours or even just buy one online, I got a complete one with a bonus dogbone mount for $150 shipped. What is that, like $6000 Canadian? Still a good deal :laugh: Nice build :thumbup:

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For reference, here is a stock braced subframe from an early TT roadster, either to mod yours or even just buy one online, I got a complete one with a bonus dogbone mount for $150 shipped. What is that, like $6000 Canadian? Still a good deal Nice build

Thanks for the offer man, but I might just hit the 7k price if Canada is great enough. Lol. Thank you, taking a bit. I got a 1.8t interior harness I am swaping in so i don't have to deal with BS if the 2.0L auto one.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That wasn't an offer, that's what I got it for on eBay There have been a few companies that have modified stock ones (welded seams, tubular bracing), and here are a few threads maybe worth reading:

MkIV Handling- a different approach
MkIV sub-frame stiffeners [lower stress/tie bars]
Sorry your shared information Lol yea innofab and idf are decent ones. I'm doing tubular pipe bracing. Have all of my metal...maybe I should weld some and show my daughter as well.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
PS res:


Here is the relocated PS res. Make hole diameter bigger and mount to the frame rail.


Done. Now to get hose and run that.

Sunframe:

Wire wheel the rust and get some shinny metal showing.


Started getting my pieces made up.


Weld them in.



Stiffness support done. Time for blasting.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·


1.8t harness all laid out. This is going to be the chanllenge for me. Even though it is plug and play. This will make the piece to the puzzle alot easier when completeing my 1.8t swap. Getting rid of my 2.0 harness and use to any splicing procedures.

Is this how much harness it should have? Lol. I know I can match up later but still never been to this part of town.

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...Is this how much harness it should have? Lol...

Nope. You should definitely have a strand or two more than that... maybe three . I have a TT harness that’s sitting in a box - pretty much like the picture of your harness in the box... I’m just splicing out of it as needed but if I stretched it all out, I think it would look like yours plus a few wires ;)

Nice work on the subframe :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Nope. You should definitely have a strand or two more than that... maybe three . I have a TT harness that’s sitting in a box - pretty much like the picture of your harness in the box... I’m just splicing out of it as needed but if I stretched it all out, I think it would look like yours plus a few wires ;)

Nice work on the subframe
I was taking another look tonight and realizing that I don't have anything for power windows (hoping my 2.0 can work with it?) And looking for the sunroof as well (if not on the harness hopefully 2.0 will work).

Also didn't know the interior harness was with headlight looms and etc. Lol. I thought 3 harnesses would be all.

Thanks on the subframe. Was thinking on placing one under the dogbone mount (most likely will) bit im sure the brace on the rear of the frame is enough.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nope. You should definitely have a strand or two more than that... maybe three . I have a TT harness that’s sitting in a box - pretty much like the picture of your harness in the box... I’m just splicing out of it as needed but if I stretched it all out, I think it would look like yours plus a few wires ;)

Nice work on the subframe
As well I haven't gotten a doner TT or R32 for the AWD swap. Is that what your refering as well to the 2 extra wiring strands.

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hy
I would go on riffle drilled rods and Mahle 142p instead of JE.In my opinion JE are just for track.Riffle drilled rods would significantly increase your piston pin life and therefore your piston.A must have is a Girdle kit.It eliminates all the crankshaft flexing and that means a longer bearing life.A fluidamp would also be a good ideea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
hy
I would go on riffle drilled rods and Mahle 142p instead of JE.In my opinion JE are just for track.Riffle drilled rods would significantly increase your piston pin life and therefore your piston.A must have is a Girdle kit.It eliminates all the crankshaft flexing and that means a longer bearing life.A fluidamp would also be a good ideea.
I'm doing riffle drilled IE 144x20 rods and doing JE pistons as the car will be at the track alot of the times. I know about Riffle drilling, interesting how a little hole helps along way. I'm just debating stay at 81mm bore or going 82-82.5mm

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As well I haven't gotten a doner TT or R32 for the AWD swap. Is that what your refering as well to the 2 extra wiring strands.

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Nah, I was just joking around about the extra wire or two - the harness looks like a pile of spaghetti... hard to tell what’s what until you get it mapped out and labeled. Hope you have a Bentley.


I'm doing riffle drilled IE 144x20 rods and doing JE pistons as the car will be at the track alot of the times. I know about Riffle drilling, interesting how a little hole helps along way. I'm just debating stay at 81mm bore or going 82-82.5mm

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I’d go 83.0mm personally but if cost is a concern, I’d go as big as you can without having to buy special order pistons. Numerous examples of high-powered 1.8T blocks being bored (& stroked) to 83.0 successfully.
 
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