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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I had another post going, what are symptoms of bad injectors? When I give it gas it just completely bogs down and does nothing, if I rev it super slow I can get it to rev up, if I do it fast nothing. It sounds like it is only running on 4 cly's and missing. The plug wires and plugs are brand new and are on right, all vacum lines replaced, cleaned the ISV valve and muffler, brand new O2 sensor, cleaned the throttle body and maf, EGR has been eliminated, distibutor is fairly new. What about tps? Dont know if it would run that bad even if it was bad. I have unplugged every sensor on the car and none have changed anything. http://****************.com/smile/emthdown.gif
 

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Re: OBDI still running like poo, Injectors? (heathens)

You say you got rid of the EGR? If so did you bypass it with the resistors trick and plug up the hole in the block and manifold? If you just took out the EGR and plugged up the holes and left the wires dangling for the EGR then the car thinks it has a massive vacum leak. Does the car idle very low also? And punching the gas causes the car to almost stall?
 

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Re: OBDI still running like poo, Injectors? (Manic_VR)

Here is how to bypass the EGR....
There was a thread on here a while ago regarding this. Here is a
direct
quote from that thread:
The EGR solenoid/switch has a resistance of 30 Ohm, & the temperature
sensor
has a value of 2M Ohm to 700k Ohm, which decreases with an increase in
temperature. I used a value of 1M Ohm in its place, since that's a
~median
value of a warm engine, & an easy-to-find resistor value.
Installing these two resistances in their respective places (mentioned
below), my car idles better than it ever has. Until now I've just
used the
30 Ohm resistance in place of the EGR solenoid, & my idle would dip
low
after stabbing the clutch, but not quite die (without the 30 Ohm, it
would
die immediately with a warm engine). With both these resistances, the
EGR is
entirely electrically simulated, & my idle is like new, dropping to
~1k RPM
& then slowly settling to 600-750 RPM.
Here's where to connect the two resistances, if you don't have a
Bentley. If
you do, double check me! This "diagram" (*cough*) shows the
wires coming
from the EGR & its temp sensor plugs. If you still have the plugs in
place,
you can identify the plugs & their function by the wire color:
green/grey ------EGR solenoid (30 Ohm)--- red/black
brown/yellow ---EGR temp sensor(1M Ohm)--- violet
Other notes:
1M Ohm = 1 MegaOhm = 1,000,000 Ohms
30 Ohm = 30 Ohms
My EGR is physically removed from the engine... the connection points
are
capped off.
Twist the wires together securely, use crimp/snap on connectors for
the
resistors, & mummify it all in heat shrink tubing. Soldering around
the
engine is dangerous, difficult, & solder tends to weaken & let go in
environments with a lot of vibration. Don't let any metal show, since
everything in the area(cylinder head, block, etc) is grounded.
Resistors don't have a polarity or direction, so you can't get them
flipped
around. Just attach the two ends to the wires noted. If you still
have the
plugs in place, try putting these in the plug... make sure the leads
can't
touch each other, or Bad Things could happen!
I used three 10 Ohm resistors- with 1W dissipation capacity each- in
series
for the 30 Ohm load. I wasn't sure how much power the EGR's switch
used; I
wanted to be safe with 3W handling. The 1M Ohm load, being much higher
resistance & simply a sensor, received a "standard" 0.25W
resistor. At Radio
Shack, the 1W variety are grey & slightly larger than the 1/4 W beige
ones.

- Hope this helps!
 

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Re: OBDI still running like poo, Injectors? (Manic_VR)

Sounds like the same thing mine did when the EGR wasnt fully connected. I dont know how to remove the EGR but there is a post about how to do it somewhere, possibly in the FAQ thread. I would make sure you have it done correctly.
EDIT...the above post must have been being written while I wrote this! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


Modified by rt30000 at 2:27 PM 6-30-2003
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: OBDI still running like poo, Injectors? (rt30000)

The egr resistors are in place, where is the hole on the block? I didnt eliminate it myself, I know the hole is plugged on the intake not sure about the block though.
 

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Re: OBDI still running like poo, Injectors? (heathens)

The thread is to the right of the header, if you are looking at the engine head-on, about where head and block meet. I plugged mine up with a brass cap from home depot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: OBDI still running like poo, Injectors? (Manic_VR)

well thats plugged, so thats not it.



Modified by heathens at 12:48 PM 7-1-2003
 

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Re: OBDI still running like poo, Injectors? (heathens)

You got me stumped on this one. The bad TPS theory would not cause the car to run like you describe...unless the MAF was gone as well. From what I understand, if the MAF is bad the TPS will keep the car running, and if the TPS is bad vice versa.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: OBDI still running like poo, Injectors? (Manic_VR)

Just got done doing a compression test, I'm sure my neighbors loved that at 12:30 in the morning. Anyways here are the numbers:
1.165 3.188 5.185 2.185 4.175 6.160
#6 went up alot slower than the rest had to crank it longer. Not sure what thats all about? Look pretty good to me.
 

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Re: OBDI still running like poo, Injectors? (heathens)

edit...im a moron


Modified by GTI RB at 1:24 AM 7-2-2003
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: OBDI still running like poo, Injectors? (heathens)

WOO HOO! It was the injectors. I thought it was running on 4cyl's but I was wrong it was running on two! Four out of six injectors were dead.
 

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Re: OBDI still running like poo, Injectors? (heathens)

I do not recommend cleaning obd 1 maf.Remove it and hold to to light to see if tiny wire is broken.
 
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