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Orig owner 90 g60, 02 allroad 6SP M w/ 3rd Row, 07 3X White NB Vert, 09 Escalade ESV Plat to tow em
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Your brake fluid reservoir doesn't look like it sat next to an ashtray for 25 years. Is there some way to clean them up?
 

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Discussion Starter #222
Your brake fluid reservoir doesn't look like it sat next to an ashtray for 25 years. Is there some way to clean them up?
Had a beef with that dude for a long time. Degreser actully made it worse. A lot of detailer produkts did not work either.
Eventully I tried power wipes from Würth - they worked the best. Also used them on the windscreenwash container -with great result along with other stuff(items.
It m a y cause the surfes to go blass on painted objects, but on plastic it never hurt.
 

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Orig owner 90 g60, 02 allroad 6SP M w/ 3rd Row, 07 3X White NB Vert, 09 Escalade ESV Plat to tow em
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HaHa! Now that there's a solution to cleaning them, Würth wont let that product over the pond and into the States. Too dangerous over here :facepalm:

 

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Discussion Starter #224
HaHa! Now that there's a solution to cleaning them, Würth wont let that product over the pond and into the States. Too dangerous over here :facepalm:

Seriously ? And I who thought that Norway/EU was strict. Damn!
 

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Discussion Starter #225
So the car has been back from tuning for a month or so - straight to winter storage..
The result was 220HP at 1 bar. Not so much smiling going on, but the tuner is a critical dude and want everything 100% before going further - so that
is very good and serious. Need bigger injector - he actully wanted me to go 850cc.! (Now 440cc)
Have some clutch problem. It startes to grip at ones the pedal is going out and with more than one bar it started to slip. Its rated for 340HP so thats not why.
Will try to air it and check the pedal feel then.
Another thing is leak. Most def in bottom pan, but I also might have leak on the seal for crankshaft on transmission side.......................... (Might explaining clutch problem if air is not the problem)
Bad connection on the pin to the ecu for ignition... And some other small stuff I need to adress..
So yeah, 2020 also includes wrenching, not that I thought this would be pain free, but. Yeah. Tired, not motivated, #Justwannadrive..
The good thing is that it is ready mapped for 1 bar - so when I get the leaks and other errors going on I can drive it. So will fo sho drive it some before hunting
higher numbers. Hopefully 220HP is not as bad as it sound, bud in doubt there...

The tuner had problems with fuel delivery, this is why. Now 255 l/h in tank



Winter storage

 

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Yea, that silly little Fuel pump connector on the early 2 pump Corrados are a pain and a ridiculous price from the dealer. I improvised and use a hose inside a hose at the one end as I refused to pay $60 from the dealer.

Since, I switched to the later Corrado Fuel Tank which leaves many more options. Sounds like you have that sorted now.

As far as the Injectors go, new style injectors are extremely responsive (even at low pulse widths). Especially, Injector Dynamics Injectors. Its not unheard of running the ID 1000's and only hitting 50-60% duty cycle and still have a good idle.

That being said, no reason to overkill the injectors either. If anything other than ID, injectors, I would try to size properly with some room for growth. If your 440's are the good old Bosch EV1 Green tops, then an upgrade is probably warranted anyway :)

if it is a true 220hp at the wheels, that is not terrible and certainly a good starting point for a counterflow 8v! As they say, It's all in the tune :cool:
 

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Had a beef with that dude for a long time. Degreser actully made it worse. A lot of detailer produkts did not work either.
Eventully I tried power wipes from Würth - they worked the best. Also used them on the windscreenwash container -with great result along with other stuff(items.
It m a y cause the surf to go blass on painted objects, but on plastic it never hurt.
My buddy said he'd seen a guy on YouTube using tire foam to clean up under the hood.
Watched it myself lol
Waited overnight, used lots of rags to wipe off most the dirt, then sprayed No-Touch Tire Foam all over plastic/rubber. Dirt just slides off, but I used rags and wiped til it shined. Worked surprisingly well lol
 

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Discussion Starter #228
Yea, that silly little Fuel pump connector on the early 2 pump Corrados are a pain and a ridiculous price from the dealer. I improvised and use a hose inside a hose at the one end as I refused to pay $60 from the dealer.

Since, I switched to the later Corrado Fuel Tank which leaves many more options. Sounds like you have that sorted now.

As far as the Injectors go, new style injectors are extremely responsive (even at low pulse widths). Especially, Injector Dynamics Injectors. Its not unheard of running the ID 1000's and only hitting 50-60% duty cycle and still have a good idle.

That being said, no reason to overkill the injectors either. If anything other than ID, injectors, I would try to size properly with some room for growth. If your 440's are the good old Bosch EV1 Green tops, then an upgrade is probably warranted anyway :)

if it is a true 220hp at the wheels, that is not terrible and certainly a good starting point for a counterflow 8v! As they say, It's all in the tune :cool:
Did not go OEM on the in tank pump, but universal..
I see that AK racing have big injectors, so will probably go for that (850cc) I do have the Bosch EV1 green tops today.

The tuner said engine power, but he used a roller - so I´m a bit unsure if its WHP or in engine. Still waits on dyno sheets to confirm..

Another thing is that he wanted me to go singel-port TB when coming back for hunting more power. Does anyone know of an adapter to fit the original intake manifold so fitting a universal TB is easy ?
Any suggestions for TB ? If it´s allready fitted with TPS that is a +.
 

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Discussion Starter #229
Take of the oil filter! There could be some air in the pipe to the pump wich can't esscape! I've had this several times.
Remove the filter and start till oil comes out of the housing.
Good luck: Stef.
Just to be bulletproof. How often does this happen during regular oil and filter change ?
Or is this just when engine has been re-assambeled and is "dry" ?

Wondering if this is something I have to worry about/pay attention to when changing oil and filter as service.
 

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Just to be bulletproof. How often does this happen during regular oil and filter change ?
Or is this just when engine has been re-assambeled and is "dry" ?

Wondering if this is something I have to worry about/pay attention to when changing oil and filter as service.
When you change oil and oilfilter both at the same time you will have no problems nomally, but it's always a good idea to pump oilpressure before starting the engine. Just to be sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #231
When you change oil and oilfilter both at the same time you will have no problems nomally, but it's always a good idea to pump oilpressure before starting the engine. Just to be sure.
Agreed !
When I did the oil and filter change now, it took a few seconds before oil came out of oilfilter housing. So will be pumping pressure as a regular.
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #232 (Edited)
2020 is ON !
After I collected the car from storage I started to deal with the issues the tuner listed.
First out was the oil leak. Crossing fingers its not the crankshaft seal..
Pulled the pan, oilpump and windage tray. Dont know why i did not used siilicone on the windage in the first place...
New bearings are setteling in;




The really good news is that this seems to have done it !! Did a short test-drive and I have a slightly light oil film in the crankshaft seal area, but it is very hard to tell
where it is from. It is just a slightly film so I will be leaving it with this for now and pay attention to it after some more driving to confirm it is not getting worse.
Next was the clutch. It gripped to early/right away and started to slip when tuner tried over 1 bar. Thought that just to double-check the air prossedure was a good idea.
Tried, pedal went straight to floor and lost all pressure. Tried so freaking long and with different methods - no sucsess. Gave up after maybe one and a half hour.
Check the WWW and found a old dude saying that you should push oil through the slave rather than airing it. 5 min later - all done and clutch pedal is gripping much later out. P E R F E C T O !

The rear swaybar interfered with the fuel tank. Did not notice this when dropping the ass back down - so very good he discovered this.


Tried to cut of the bolt a few mm witch looked to be more than enough, but it was not..
I hate dropping down the rear beam when just having jacks available, so i did the easiest thing;@


I left the endlinks on as I could not drop down the rear beam enough to get the bolt holding them clearing the exhaust and fuel tank.
I will re-install the bar I guess at one point anyways. Then I really can tell the difference as well!


My christmast gift for my self. So goddamn sexy to have this . LOVE IT!


The crappy holder I made fot throttlecable was to weak. I had to make a more solid one. It was enough to add a second angle. You see it under the black plastic
on the cable/wire. It looks so rubbish, but it works like hell. The pedal feel is so much better now;


Then I raised the front coilovers 1cm, i had some rubbing in the first test drive. Now I almost can get the jack under the car! Think I will raise it half a cm more so it fits under.After this I did another test-drive. I must say it moves better then I expected from the numbers. Really fun ! Its not completely dead before the turbo kicks in either. So good thing I raised the compression.

Now. It has actully been on the road - allready ! Time to adress the paint. Its horrible. Time to polish it. Did this as first time ever in 2010 I think - by hand. So that does not actully count. The thing is that I did not get rid of nearly as much scratches and stuff as I thought I would. Been polishing the daily (BMW E90) every spring and autum - no problem getting rid of everything if I want to with the gear I have. So that was surprisingly in a bad way. The paint is very thin tho and I dont have a um meassuring devise, so I was a little carefull. Anyways, it did help as you can see;











Wish wash-down this took me 28 hours.. Two step (1200 grit and 3000 grit) and ofc carnauba was on top.
The sun got away when I was finished. So direct sunlight pictures has to wait.





Now. I have made a list I of all things I need to fix;


What I cant figure out is why the RPM in cluster does not work.. It did before. The tuner had to replace the MSD blaster coil with the original one but the wire is on the +..
Any ideas ?


My MFA display is loco. Any suggestions ?
 

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Discussion Starter #233
I have done som electrical work and after this the MFA worked again. I guessing it is correct the clock is supposed to be on when key not in and that this will not drain the battery ?


I switched place for the green and green/black wire for facelift windscreenwash, replaced the blown fuse and tried. It stopped right there on the way up the very first time.
The fuse is not blown. Any ideas ?


I dont have any vacuum line for my boost gauge yet. I do not want to use the line to ECU (Only one vacuum port on my TB) On the manifold I already have three..
Should i not add another T for this ?


Been installing the interior back together. I have also pulled out the speakers in doors. Was tired of the look. Have the original speaker covers now! Scored them off ebay.
I also pulled the rear original speakers. A little too late starting saving weight (Thinking of all the dampning mats in doors and floor...)








Raised the front a little more. Current height;
 

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Discussion Starter #234
Okeeeey, so the reason for the RPM did not work was that the 2 pin plug on coil only was connected to one terminal.. Sorry for the horrible research, but did not see this the first time..
The facelift wiper is now working. It was interfering with a long bolt for the dash. After cutting this is was nada problema.

(Yes, had to use a 90 angle on the dremel.)



Time to upgrade for the Lupo wiper arms and blades, but have not yet scored them...


Now I only have the ABS light being always on to deal with and to fit the SFT Rain tray.
It will take some time to get the plates as there is a prosess in Norway and the Covid-19 situation does not help..
 

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the car is looking great after the polish

- is that the vr6 wiper linkage?

- oil/voltage guages you have, those are from the vr6/newer interior but actually look ok in the older style. The wiring harness for those, are they a separate harness back to the fuse box? do they tie in or connect to any other harnesses?
 

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Discussion Starter #236
the car is looking great after the polish

- is that the vr6 wiper linkage?

- oil/voltage guages you have, those are from the vr6/newer interior but actually look ok in the older style. The wiring harness for those, are they a separate harness back to the fuse box? do they tie in or connect to any other harnesses?
Thanks!

Yes, it is a vr6 wiper linkage.

It nearly fits the older style interior. I had to trim the top of the housing to make it fit underneath the ashtray.
After what I found out it is spliced into the original harness. I remember one wire going with the harness for the glovecompartment, for an example.
I wired it directly trough a extra relay and not in the factory harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #238 (Edited)
If the gap is different on each side, the rear beam is probably off just a bit. Have you ever removed it?

I wouldn't worry about it too much if the gap is less than 5mm.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
So, only 6 years after I finally had a wheel aligment. The rear beam is not off at all (I have not done anything to it) So the difference is something else.
(New rear axles) The mechanic told me this is pretty common. Have not re-meassured the gap now after aligment. Kinda just not bothering me thinking of the result for the aligment :)



My horns did not work. Found a broken wire and shortend the loom. Still no sound.


Found out the relay did not klick, pulled the steering wheel and hub. Alot if dirt and grime and the metal plate behind the hub had bad connection.
Fixed this and relay klick but still no sound. Dead horns, haha. "New" horns installed and everythings okey.



Have a video on idle. Didnt thought it will smoke so much out of the catch can. Will fit a hose to get the filter further away from the bay.
Also, that sound that comes with the RPM, i´m thinking its the PS pump - any others ? Its fairly new, Ive aired it a lot and it does not lug.
It sound this way on low rpms and when off gas rolling into roundabouts and stuff like that.
You can also hear the valves pretty good. Dont know how it is on warm engine actully. Is this something i need to check or is this normal on such modified engines ?
Put down around 250km on the turbo. Still works like a champ, but my own limit is first 600km (That was when last engine failed me) and than another 400km before I think that this will not break because of assembly.



<a href="https://imgur.com/8YnBQTb"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/8YnBQTb.mp4" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
https://i.imgur.com/8YnBQTb.mp4
 

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Discussion Starter #240
So! I went away to get the coilovers in the registration as I need this to get license plates. No problems with the coilovers, but in return I got a fault for wheels and catalysator (No surprise) Fault for the valve on the rear beam for the rear brakes and two breaklines going in to the valve.



Needed to re-use the spring and T as I could not fin new parts for this. Valve is ATE delivered from ECS.





Then I ordered a race-cat and my friend welded on V-bands.He also shaped the brakeline.




Then I had to get 16" wheels. Tried four different rims and none of them cleared the Brembo´s..(With the correct ET)
They are wide..


Ended up spacing out the holder 1,5mm witch was enough for the best alternative of the four I tried. Had to trim down the caliper on inside as it interfered with the brakedisc.






Kinda racing inspired these Sparco rims, so why not invest in some nice tyres so I have a wheel set for the track.




Then new controll and is pases ! Mounted the licenseplates frameless for the cleanest look.





YES ! I do have plans for a new exhaust tip..
Been driving for three days now and everything works well. Only hick-up is that the VDO thing alerted for low oilpressure, but I saw on the gauge that I had. Replaced the oiltemperature sensor with the original oil pressure sensore and no alerts. Is brand new this VDO thing, is it common that they fails ? I have not tried it again, will do one day.
 
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