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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, this is weird: at night, with the Phatbox playing, if I turn on my headlights, the Phatbox stops. If I then turn the lights off, and then on again, the Phatbox resumes playing. It doesn't "lock up" per se, because if I hit track forward, it plays the next track, it just "pauses" the current track.
Anyone else have this issue?
 

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I have neither of the two components which are causing your problem.... but to me it sounds like an electrical wiring issue, either the HID's are pulling too much power, or there's some grouding issues causing some sort of power spike when you turn on your lights causing your phatbox to get confused.
I'd recheck power wiring first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: (abcfob)

Quote, originally posted by abcfob »
I have neither of the two components which are causing your problem.... but to me it sounds like an electrical wiring issue, either the HID's are pulling too much power, or there's some grouding issues causing some sort of power spike when you turn on your lights causing your phatbox to get confused.
I'd recheck power wiring first.

I agree entirely, and it makes sense as I've heard tons on how sensitive the Phatbox is to power/grounding issues. It's all factory wiring though....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: (1.8Todd)

Quote, originally posted by 1.8Todd »
oem hids use HUGE power FYI
thats what is causing it

No, they don't. They use a lot for ignition, then they use significantly less than halogens.
 

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Re: (TheGreasyJap)

Quote, originally posted by TheGreasyJap »

No, they don't. They use a lot for ignition, then they use significantly less than halogens.

right again...we just keep running into each other on these threads!

HID has a high inrush current for igniting the source. At steady state, they will draw less current and use less power (30-35 watts). Check your wiring though; if you used too small of wire, you will have a bigger voltage drop between "battery" and the ballast, resulting in a low voltage at the input. The ballast needs to have s specific amount of power to work and P=VI will tell you that when the voltage is lower, it'll pull more current. This is especially important during the inrush period.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: (EternalMind)

The headlights work fine, it's the Phatbox that pauses. The wiring is all factory, the 12-10 pin adapter being made with factory parts. I'm thinking it's just the Phatbox and it's notorious sensitivity to anything electrical....
 

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Re: (TheGreasyJap)

Quote, originally posted by TheGreasyJap »
The headlights work fine, it's the Phatbox that pauses. The wiring is all factory, the 12-10 pin adapter being made with factory parts. I'm thinking it's just the Phatbox and it's notorious sensitivity to anything electrical....

sorry, no experience with the phatbox!
but here are a few other things "electrical" to consider.
1) make sure that you don't run your signal lines too close to PWR/GND lines (that carry relatively high current) - this, in general, can create noise in your signal lines.
2) when an HID ballast initializes, it creates a spike on the PWR/GND lines for the ballast. This can be as much as 50A for a few micro seconds (of course not long enough to blow the fuse). This spike can cause issues on other lines running near these lines.
hope you get it figured out. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: (EternalMind)

Quote, originally posted by EternalMind »

right again...we just keep running into each other on these threads!

HID has a high inrush current for igniting the source. At steady state, they will draw less current and use less power (30-35 watts). Check your wiring though; if you used too small of wire, you will have a bigger voltage drop between "battery" and the ballast, resulting in a low voltage at the input. The ballast needs to have s specific amount of power to work and P=VI....

Oh yeah! Well, P=V2/R = I2R = Et. Sorry I teach the MCAT for Kaplan, I've got a ton of useless equations I have to impart on the students before they get to the test.
I've got OEM HIDs coming next week. So very "tex-like" I "know" TheGreasyJap and EternalMind know their stuff. Just wanted to keep you guys aware, I might PM you one nite saying, "I honk my horn, and my sunroof opens!"


- GJ
(We'll see if it's PnP!!!)
 

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Re: (KortJester)

how do you have the Phat box mounted I have def heard of the phat box having ground loop issues? I bet this is the problem see if you can shield the cable and isolate the case from ground that should help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: (protijy337)

Quote, originally posted by protijy337 »
how do you have the Phat box mounted I have def heard of the phat box having ground loop issues? I bet this is the problem see if you can shield the cable and isolate the case from ground that should help!

Here's my install: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1965068
I think it's more to do with the large power spike when the HID's initialize.....
 

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Re: (TheGreasyJap)

Quote, originally posted by TheGreasyJap »
Someone else suggested that in one of my other threads, I think I'll try that.


carefull though!!!! you need to measure the current spike (with a meter I'd say) then see the variance in voltage (prob between 10-16 volts)
Then get a cap that is rated for 10-16 V and for the current you measured.... I'm guessing a small electrolitic should do it, or maybe even a small film cap. check digikey see what they got!
if you already know all this sorry, I'm an idiot!
I know you work for Nokia just forget if your an geeky engineer like me or not




Modified by protijy337 at 3:08 PM 7-1-2005
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: (KortJester)

Strange thing:
While working on my right fender the other day (we had to remove the bumper cover to take it off), I noticed that there were two grounding wires routed around the cold air intake. They were pulled VERY taughtly, scarring the outside of the intake pipe. I had to remove the CAI to route the wires around the inside where they were nice and loose. Ever since, the HID's don't pause the Phatbox...
 
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