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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, as many know, the OEM R8 Oil Cap does not sit perfectly straight on the VR6. I really like the look of the cap, but not having it sit correctly would drive me absolutely crazy, so here is the process involved to re-align things.

The R8 Oil Cap can be purchased here:
http://****************.com/smile/star.gif OEM R8 Oil Cap - Can be purchased HERE http://****************.com/smile/star.gif
Tools used:
small flat blade screw driver
Dremel with sanding drum
Dremel with cutting disc
Dremel with very small grinding tip
The process is pretty straight forward and took me about 30 minutes from start to finish once my little head figured out what needed to happen. In order for the cap to sit like the OEM cap on the VR6, the bottom of the cap needs to be parallel with the upper portion (aka, the raised portion you twist to remove it needs to align parallel with the bottom portion that holds it to the valve cover.
Step 1 - Pry the top and bottom of the cap apart
Using a small flat blade screw driver, carefully pry the upper half of the cap apart from the lower. Look at the top and bottom portions and understand how the alignment tabs work. There are (4) raised tabs around the edge of the upper portion, those tabs slide into the grooves around the lower portion of the cap and are what align the cap. They need to be removed in order to reposition the cap. Note there is a small raised ring that runs around the entire upper portion of the cap, take care not to remove it when sanding as it keeps the upper and lower portions together.
Step 2 - Remove raised tabs around edge of the top portion of the cap
Using the Dremel with a sanding drum, sand off the raised tabs down underneath the raised ring. Once removed, change the Dremel over to a small grinding tip and remove them above the raised ring. Take care not to remove the raised ring when sanding.
Step 3 - Mark alignment slots and tabs
When the caps are apart, you can see the raised alignment tabs in the bottom portion of the cap. Those alignment tags slide into the slots on the upper portion of the cap. (4) new slots will need to be made for everything to align how it needs to be.
Using a pencil, mark all the tabs on the outside edge of the lower portion of the cap. Next, mark all the alignment slots around the outer edge on the upper portion of the cap. Loosely fit the two halves together and you can still see your alignment marks on both the top and bottom portions.
Align the top half of the cap parallel with the lower portion, both must be in the same direction for the cap to sit straight when installed. Once aligned, look at your marks on the lower portion of the cap where the tabs are located. Now mark the upper half of the cap using the pencil to identify where the (4) new slots need to be made.
Step 4 - Cutting new slots
Using the Dremel with a rotary cutting disc, cut the (4) new slots on the upper portion of the cap on the alignment marks you just made. You will notice the new slots will be very close to where the (now sanded off) raised tabs were located. Make sure your slots are wide enough to accept the tabs from the lower portion. My cutting disc happened to be exactly the same width as the factory slots.
Step 5 - Snap together and install
Once all the new tabs are cut into the upper portion, align the upper and lower portion of the caps again making sure the top and bottom portions are parallel. If you marked everything correctly the upper and lower halves will now snap back together with the correct alignment to install on a VR6.







http://****************.com/smile/emlove.gif


Modified by JonnyKuhns at 10:17 PM 6-21-2009
 

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Re: (justinperkins)

Quote, originally posted by justinperkins »
nice indeed http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
wait, you have to spend $50-$75 on the thing and then mod it to make it work?

sounds like the dead pedal and damn near everything else
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I had several PM's asking how to do this and figured this would be the easiest way to show / discuss the process.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: (JonnyKuhns)

Another grateful R8 cap owner here, thanks Jonny. http://****************.com/smile/emgift.gif
Your DIY got me all pumped for sanding, cutting, grinding... but luckily, with the TFSI all I needed to do was separate the two pieces and rotate the bottom section 90°, snap them back together and presto!



Modified by ApexTwin at 12:15 AM 5-23-2009
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: (ApexTwin)

Nice, glad to hear it worked out without too much work!
These caps tend to sit a bit differently on each motor, so some motors might require modification while others may not.
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: FV-QR (vdub_jetta)

Did this a whille ago worked out great makes the eng bay look that much better.
Some oil caps are twice this price , Bye one for a 360 ferrari or a 430 ferrari , my dad dropped and chipped his on the 360 and it was over 200 for it , But a ferrari oil capis is real alum and the R8 is still plastic
 

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Re: FV-QR ([email protected])

Did this today on my TT (1.8t) and went very well. I actually shorten the cap a bit as well because it stands so "tall" compared to the OEM one. Still snapped together fine and could still use further "shortening" to really flush it with where the original cap would sit compared to the engine cover.
Great write up.
Joe
 
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